Crank pulley replacement on a 67 bug...
Jan Andersson
Bruce Bates wrote:
>
> Here is a (hopefully) simple question:
> I need to replace the crank pulley (bottom one).
> Is there any way to do it without taking out the whole engine?
> I suppose yer wondering _why_ I hafta do this. I bought the car with
> one of those cool timing wheels and then when somebody tried to steal
> my carb, (fortunately did not take it) he/she left the air filter down.
> Not knowing
> this had happened, I ran the car around. Finally I opened the hood and
> realized the air filter had scratched off all the numbers. So it's
> kinda hard to do a tune up. bummer.
>
> Thanks for all the help. Cheers.
If I ever catch an asshole stealing parts from ANYONES VW, or damaging
one on purpose, she/he will truly regret meeting me.
Anyway, there is a special puller designed for the VW engine, which
will remove the lower pulley with the engine in its place.
You have to remove the surrounding tin, though, but it should be
a simple task. Check at any VW-aftermarket-goodies dealer, they should
have one. It is adjustable for different sizes of pulleys.
This is not a joke, I HAVE ONE, and I'm 100% satisfied!!!!!!!
Jan Andersson
Finland
Chris Chubb
In article <322C72...@tele.telebox.fi>, Jan Andersson <jan.an...@tele.telebox.fi> says:
>Anyway, there is a special puller designed for the VW engine, which
>will remove the lower pulley with the engine in its place.
>You have to remove the surrounding tin, though, but it should be
>a simple task. Check at any VW-aftermarket-goodies dealer, they should
>have one. It is adjustable for different sizes of pulleys.
>This is not a joke, I HAVE ONE, and I'm 100% satisfied!!!!!!!
True, you will have to take off the rear brest tin.
But, no puller is required, if you have patience, and your
pully has slots or holes in it, lie the stock or most
aftermarket units.
First, loosen the bolt in the middle and bac it out
about 50% of the way. Then, take two screwdrivers, or other
suitable prying attachments.
This is the hard part to visualize: Put one through the side,
across the bolt. Put the other across the bolt with the spade
under the other edge. You want the screwdriver tips
180 degrees apart, with the screwdriver shanks crossing each other
on top of the center bolt.
Then, just press toward the engine on the handles, levering the
pully off. You often have to lever a little, back the nut out
a few turns, lever a little more, etc.
You will have the pully off in about 5 minutes.
- Chris Chubb (cch...@codegurus.com)- Alexandria, VA, USA
Richard Troy
Chris Chubb wrote:
>
> This is the hard part to visualize: Put one through the side,
> across the bolt. Put the other across the bolt with the spade
> under the other edge. You want the screwdriver tips
> 180 degrees apart, with the screwdriver shanks crossing each other
> on top of the center bolt.
>
> Then, just press toward the engine on the handles, levering the
> pully off. You often have to lever a little, back the nut out
> a few turns, lever a little more, etc.
>
> You will have the pully off in about 5 minutes.
...You're right - hard to visualize... Care to explain a little more?
What I don't get is how the two handles don't interfere with each
other... How can I have the tips 180 degrees apart and have the shanks
cross each other?...
Rgds,
RT
--
Richard Troy, President
The Karmann Ghia Club of North America
4200 Park Blvd, #151, Oakland, CA, 94602
rt...@Postgres.Berkeley.EDU
rt.g...@Barra.com
510-531-1320
510-643-1016 @UCB
510-642-5615 FAX @ UCB
The KGCNA Web Page:
http://s2k-ftp.cs.berkeley.edu:8000/personal/rtroy/kgcna/
John William Kuthe
In article <bkbates.1...@best.com>, Bruce Bates <bkb...@best.com> wrote:
>Here is a (hopefully) simple question:
>
>I need to replace the crank pulley (bottom one).
>Is there any way to do it without taking out the whole engine?
>
>I suppose yer wondering _why_ I hafta do this. I bought the car with one of
>those cool timing wheels and then when somebody tried to steal my carb,
The answer is... YES! Especially if this is one of those aluminum
degreed pulleys.
Remove the rear sheet metal piece, etc. to get at the crank pulley
nut, and remove it. Now get a couple of long screwdrivers and use them
as levers on opposite edges of the pulley, and start prying on
alternating sides until the pulley starts to come off, Continue, and
the pulley will drop off in your hot little hands.
For stock steel pulleys, it can be a bit harder. I constructed a dandy
pulley puller with the screw and crossbar from a crankshaft gear
puller and a couple of 3/8 inch hex head bolts about 3 inches long. I
ground off the sides of the heads of the bolts to allow them to slip
into those oblong slots in the pulley, put them through the holes from
the back of the pulley, turn the bolts so the heads catch the pulley,
and slide the puller over the bolts, threading the nuts on to hold the
bolts into the puller's crossbar, then just turn the nice, heavy-duty
screw on this puller, and those old, stuck-on stock pulleys will come
off, no problemo!! (OK, sometimes it takes a
good ammount of effort to get 'em off, but they *do* come off!) I even
drilled out holes in an aluminum pulley once to be able to do this
with it, but soon after realized that the above screwdriver trick was
a lot easier.
Peace,
--
John Kuthe, aka jw...@cec.wustl.edu, St. Louis, Missouri |MWA Homepage:http://|
First Job of Government: Protect people from govermment.| www.missouri.edu/ |
Second Job of Government: Protect people from each other.| ~c681357/mwa.html |
It must *never* become the job of government to protect people from themselves!
ml...@scvnet.com
bkb...@best.com (Bruce Bates) wrote:
>Here is a (hopefully) simple question:
>
>I need to replace the crank pulley (bottom one).
>Is there any way to do it without taking out the whole engine?
>
>I suppose yer wondering _why_ I hafta do this. I bought the car with one of
>those cool timing wheels and then when somebody tried to steal my carb,
>this had happened, I ran the car around. Finally I opened the hood and
>realized the air filter had scratched off all the numbers. So it's
>kinda hard to do a tune up. bummer.
there should be enough room to pull the pulley off. If not, the rear tin
can be removed (5 or 6 screws) to give you plenty of room.
If you need it, you can make a puller out of a piece of 1x1x1/8 angle
iron and a couple of bolts and nuts. Email if you need more details.
George Lyle
Jeffry Johnston
That crossed screwdriver idea was great I'm going to have to try it next
time. I have one of them after market pullers and have plenty of room to
remove the pulley with out removing any tin, I have stock tin too.
The aluminum pulleys are the ones to have, they pull right off if you heat
them a little with a propane torch. When you run into one of them steel
ones that you end up bending before you get it off, no sweat just throw it
away and replace it with an aluminum one.
I always wanted to try stuffing the bolt hole with dry ice, to see if that
would work on them stubborn steel ones. Haven't ran into one since I
found a source for dry ice.
Alvin Johnston <--Libertarian