a way to insulate heater boxes?
Eric and Allison Allred
still pumping out some decent heat. i have a pair of bilge blower fans
blowing a decent amount of air to the interior of my 66 bus, but now
that it is getting to be 20 degrees in the morning, i get airflow, but
it is only warm, not hot. it's bearly getting me by now, and winter
hasent even really started yet. my poor heated air goes from the heater
boxes to this long steel pipe under my bus all the way to the very front
it still has its original insulation on it (kind of like a rubber
sleve) but i think it is loosing a lot of heat from it. i made a cab
divider seperating the front seats from the rest of the bus to help warm
it up faster and insulated the inside of the doors and between the front
panels and the rest of the bus. does anyone know of a way to insulate
this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
air makes its long voyage to the front? i keep getting this bad image
in my mind of my bus going down the road with pink panther insulation
dragging from underneath! a while ago i made the mistake of thinking
rubberized undercoating would insulate the boxes. naw, just burns off.
any help appreciated.
Scott Fraser
> does anyone know of a way to insulate
> this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
> air makes its long voyage to the front? ...
First off, from all the bus heating threads that I have read, all of them
mention the utility in insulating your bus in some fashion or another. That
being said, and mentioning that I hope you have the heat exchangers with the
cast metal fins (instead of j-tubes in a box), then Summit Racing Equipment
sells an exhaust system insulation tape that is designed to keep the heat in
the pipes and away from wires and hoses. I suppose that this stuff would
work to insulate your heater boxes.
They are at http://www.summitracing.com
1" exhaust wrap DEI-010101 50' $24.95
2" exhaust wrap DEI-010102 50' $34.99
From page 175 of their Nov-Dec 98 Catalog
Good luck
Scott Fraser
'60 crewcab
http://www.dolphinsci.com/crewcab.html
John Connolly
Is your thermostat and flaps hooked up and operating? Besides warming up
your engine and allowing it to operate at the correct temperature (hot), it
has the side effect of a MUCH more powerful STOCK heater.
John
Eric and Allison Allred wrote:
> you know, when it was still only getting to the fourties, my heater was
> still pumping out some decent heat. i have a pair of bilge blower fans
> blowing a decent amount of air to the interior of my 66 bus, but now
> that it is getting to be 20 degrees in the morning, i get airflow, but
> it is only warm, not hot. it's bearly getting me by now, and winter
> hasent even really started yet. my poor heated air goes from the heater
> boxes to this long steel pipe under my bus all the way to the very front
> it still has its original insulation on it (kind of like a rubber
> sleve) but i think it is loosing a lot of heat from it. i made a cab
> divider seperating the front seats from the rest of the bus to help warm
> it up faster and insulated the inside of the doors and between the front
> panels and the rest of the bus. does anyone know of a way to insulate
> this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
> air makes its long voyage to the front? i keep getting this bad image
> in my mind of my bus going down the road with pink panther insulation
> dragging from underneath! a while ago i made the mistake of thinking
> rubberized undercoating would insulate the boxes. naw, just burns off.
> any help appreciated.
--
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John Connolly
increase how fast those suckers rust out...
John
Scott Fraser wrote:
> Eric and Allison Allred wrote:
>
> > does anyone know of a way to insulate
> > this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
> > air makes its long voyage to the front? ...
>
> First off, from all the bus heating threads that I have read, all of them
> mention the utility in insulating your bus in some fashion or another. That
> being said, and mentioning that I hope you have the heat exchangers with the
> cast metal fins (instead of j-tubes in a box), then Summit Racing Equipment
> sells an exhaust system insulation tape that is designed to keep the heat in
> the pipes and away from wires and hoses. I suppose that this stuff would
> work to insulate your heater boxes.
>
> They are at http://www.summitracing.com
> 1" exhaust wrap DEI-010101 50' $24.95
> 2" exhaust wrap DEI-010102 50' $34.99
> From page 175 of their Nov-Dec 98 Catalog
>
> Good luck
>
> Scott Fraser
> '60 crewcab
> http://www.dolphinsci.com/crewcab.html
--
Speedy Jim
will likely cause rapid rusting (especially if road salt is a factor.)
I went thru every trick I could think of including a cabin partition,
insulation of the main heater duct (stove pipe which promptly rusted
out)
and additional insulation of the cabin. Even ran a return air duct to
the fan inlet to circulate cabin air rather than take in outside air.
(It was certainly louder but not much warmer!)
None of this made much difference.
I now have a small gas heater which is good to 20 below.
BTW, I have seen others recommend PVC pipe as a main heater duct.
Haven't tried it but at least it won't rust out and should offer greatly
reduced heat transfer from the surface.
Speedy Jim
Kyle
Speedy Jim wrote in message <364C57...@raex.com>...
>I agree. Anything you do to enclose the heater box shell
>will likely cause rapid rusting (especially if road salt is a factor.)
I agree to a point. I had a 69 fastback and the heater boxes were factory
insulated. It had a collared blanket very similar to the material found on
the bus heat tube, with a skid plate of sorts on the bottom. I don't know at
what point they were available on type III's or if they were standard, but
it definitely looked stock. Salt would indeed be a problem, they don't use
it here in Arizona, they use crushed cinder. Moisture should be dried off by
the heat in the boxes quite well.
Kyle
59 single cab
67 Westfailure
John Connolly
John
Kyle wrote:
--
Darryl dH
throught the boot , to the end of the box. It was easily removeable by
untwisting the wire, and showed no appreciable rust underneath (not easy to
say in Canada). Now mind you if you are talking about later style boxes this
may be a little more difficult...but these boots looked like they had been
on the engine since the beginning. Maybe an option up here?!?
Darryl deHaan
Eric and Allison Allred wrote:
> you know, when it was still only getting to the fourties, my heater was
> still pumping out some decent heat. i have a pair of bilge blower fans
> blowing a decent amount of air to the interior of my 66 bus, but now
> that it is getting to be 20 degrees in the morning, i get airflow, but
> it is only warm, not hot. it's bearly getting me by now, and winter
> hasent even really started yet. my poor heated air goes from the heater
> boxes to this long steel pipe under my bus all the way to the very front
> it still has its original insulation on it (kind of like a rubber
> sleve) but i think it is loosing a lot of heat from it. i made a cab
> divider seperating the front seats from the rest of the bus to help warm
> it up faster and insulated the inside of the doors and between the front
> panels and the rest of the bus. does anyone know of a way to insulate
> this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
kens...@nospam.citylinq.com
problem. If you had a house with this tiny wood stove that keeps you
cosy when its 40 deg out, but not when its 20 deg out, I think you
would need a bigger stove. Now, I know what you are going to say now,
but I already know. You've got the biggest stove available! Right!
Sounds like its time to find a gas heater, or switch to a waterpumper
vehicle for the winter.
Seriously, you can insulate the exaust pipes where they run out of the
head, and insulating the heater box in the cold weather may be ok, but
you would burn up these boxes in the warm weather.
Sterlng007
was designing the duct work for vans and trucks. I would have had the duct work
going from front to back about 40% larger and had a another tube within it. The
air would go from back to front in the inner tube and return to the back in the
outer tube with a fan to push the air. This way the heated air would recycle
and be more efficient. The only thing I can suggest now would be to add a gas
heater, if you've already sealed up all of the cold air leaks around the doors
and windows first. Also make sure the thermostat, hoses, fan belt and heat
exchangers are in good working order. I have a gas heater that fits right where
the long tube is now, but my single cab might need this heater. It actually
might be too much for a single cab considering the space it heats up.
>kenshead wrote:
>>you know, when it was still only getting to the fourties, my heater was
>>still pumping out some decent heat. i have a pair of bilge blower fans
>>blowing a decent amount of air to the interior of my 66 bus, but now
>>that it is getting to be 20 degrees in the morning, i get airflow, but
>>it is only warm, not hot. it's bearly getting me by now, and winter
>>hasent even really started yet. my poor heated air goes from the heater
>>boxes to this long steel pipe under my bus all the way to the very front
>> it still has its original insulation on it (kind of like a rubber
>>sleve) but i think it is loosing a lot of heat from it. i made a cab
>>divider seperating the front seats from the rest of the bus to help warm
>>it up faster and insulated the inside of the doors and between the front
>>panels and the rest of the bus. does anyone know of a way to insulate
>>this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
>>air makes its long voyage to the front? i keep getting this bad image
>>in my mind of my bus going down the road with pink panther insulation
>>dragging from underneath! a while ago i made the mistake of thinking
>>rubberized undercoating would insulate the boxes. naw, just burns off.
>>any help appreciated.
>>
>
>
Ron
66 single cab (undergoing full restoration)
73 beetle (being customized eventually)
: ___
: / i__ I_________ /_o_\
: ( _/ \______/ \_I I
: O O /\
Bruce Holmes
exchanger warms the air in the box from the inside, the cold air blowing
over the tin on the outside cools off the air inside the box. (Try running
around outside at -20f in just your jockey shorts, and see how warm your
[tin] skin keeps you.) Though I haven't been around the rust belt, I
haven't seen any problems with these boxes rusting out. But perhaps a high
temp coating before the wrap would be beneficial. Even if you just use
aluminum paint. If they still rust out, well weigh the replacement costs
against the cost of a gas heater.
Incidently, MAINTAIN THOSE GAS HEATERS!!! Lack of maintenance is how they
became known as buggy-burners.
Bruce.
In article <6484-364...@newsd-112.bryant.webtv.net>,
EAAl...@webtv.net (Eric and Allison Allred) wrote:
>you know, when it was still only getting to the fourties, my heater was
>still pumping out some decent heat. i have a pair of bilge blower fans
>blowing a decent amount of air to the interior of my 66 bus, but now
>that it is getting to be 20 degrees in the morning, i get airflow, but
>it is only warm, not hot. it's bearly getting me by now, and winter
>hasent even really started yet. my poor heated air goes from the heater
>boxes to this long steel pipe under my bus all the way to the very front
> it still has its original insulation on it (kind of like a rubber
>sleve) but i think it is loosing a lot of heat from it. i made a cab
>divider seperating the front seats from the rest of the bus to help warm
>it up faster and insulated the inside of the doors and between the front
>panels and the rest of the bus. does anyone know of a way to insulate
>this pipe and/or the heater boxes so i wont loose as much heat as the
>air makes its long voyage to the front? i keep getting this bad image
>in my mind of my bus going down the road with pink panther insulation
>dragging from underneath! a while ago i made the mistake of thinking
>rubberized undercoating would insulate the boxes. naw, just burns off.
>any help appreciated.
--
remove nospam for e-mail 2 Westies
2 Crewcabs
2 Many water-cooled
Dave Hall
exposed ends. They have a factory applied high zinc coating.
Occasionally, I have found them gone at the bottom folded seam, but
it's no problem to mend that with some exhaust repair putty.
There's often a certain amount of oil coating from the rockers, but
not universally so.
I came across someone who epoxied glass-fibre fabric as a repair on
his (un-insulated) Type 4 ones.
--
Dave.
---
da...@hallvw.clara.co.uk
Please use this address for mail.
VW Type 3 & 4 Club website: http://www.hallvw.clara.net
John Connolly wrote in message <364D1D0A...@bigfoot.com>...