82 Vanagon won't restart after idle stall
Tony Brooke
I've read a few posts (such as by Malibu, below) that sound close to my
problem, which my mechanic can't reproduce or fix after four attempts!
1982 Vanagon L, air-cooled, 104,000 miles
Stalls out when idling, then won't restart until 20 mins to an hour later.
It cranks but won't turn over. Lately it has been dying when I'm in gear as
well.
Recent unsuccessful fix attempts:
Adjusted one cylinder's compression from 25 lbs up to 90 lbs.
bypassed "D.I.S." (What's that?)
tightened and recrimped numerous wiring connections
check all vacuum hoses
Other recent (unrelated?) repairs:
new alternator (from bad jumpstart, #@$%^* !!, also blew a fuse)
changed regulator/isolator wiring to stop a battery drain
new battery last year
Any more ideas?
Thanks!
----------------------------------
Tony Brooke
Silent Way Recording
tony_...@bmug.org
or
w...@pacbell.net
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> malib...@aol.com (Malibu64SS) wrote:
>
> >Firt of all about that Signal amplifier that goes inline between the
> >airflow meter and the wiring harnes. What that mainly does is remove any
> >volatge spikes that occur in the airflow meter from giving a false signal
> >to the ECU. ("Black Box') The voltage spikes that occur are from static
> >electricity in the air that passes threw the airflow meter. Along with
> >that inline wiring harnes there should also be a ground strap that you put
> >on to the aifflow meter. There is a treaded hole on the back of the
> >airflow meter that you can use an 8 x 1.25 bolt to secure on end of the
> >ground strap. Then attach the other end to either the engine case, or the
> >fire wall.
>
> >As far as the vehicle quiting on you I do not believe that it is the
> >problem. I used to work at a VW shop in Berkeley, CA. I had a customer
> >come in with the same problem once. I spent 4 days trying to hunt down the
> >problem. Of course when ever I drove the van it would never die until I
> >told the customer to take it home. Finally I found out that the 2 relays
> >atop the coil (on the left hand side of the engine conpartment in a black
> >box) were going bad, and cutting out power when they heated up. Once they
> >cooled down it was fine.
Randy Hubbard
FWIW,
From the sounds of things it appears the problem is getting worse, which
means it should be a little easier to isolate. First if you can actually
cause the problem by idling or whatever, when it stalls you need to
check two systems. See if you have ignition WHILE you are cranking the
engine over. If not it could be a bad ignition switch, bad ignition
coil, pitted ignition points, bad condenser, bad connection at coil 12V
terminal, etc.
IF you have spark to the plugs BOTH while cranking and when you release
the key, then you need to see if you have a fuel supply problem.
Obviously you would need to check the entire fuel system to be sure all
is well. It's VERY difficult for anyone to diagnose a problem that you
can't re-create...
Regards,
On the 'Bahn,
Randy, a.k.a. BoltMeister
NEW** VW/Porsche/BMW Interest At: http://www.wwnet.com/~raceware **NEW
Eric Klobas
is a bad or loose cylinder head temp sensor! I quite often find these
loose(1/4 turn will cause problems!), as they are usualy screwed through
the tin into the head. the vibration loostnes up the tin in time and
causes strange misses, and dieing. When this goes open circut the engine
floods almost instantly!
Bill Collins
Tony Brooke wrote:
>
> I've read a few posts (such as by Malibu, below) that sound close to my
> problem, which my mechanic can't reproduce or fix after four attempts!
>
> 1982 Vanagon L, air-cooled, 104,000 miles
>
> Stalls out when idling, then won't restart until 20 mins to an hour later.
> It cranks but won't turn over. Lately it has been dying when I'm in gear as
> well.
read on...)
One of the contacts in the socket for the fuel pump relay was making a poor connection, which got quite hot.
The hotter it got, the worse the connection. When the car was warm, and the engine speed low enough that the
battery voltage dropped a bit, the fuel pump didn't get enough voltage and the car died. Until the contact
cooled, the fuel pump didn't have a chance with the low voltage available during cranking. I couldn't see
replacing the entire relay plate, so I soldered a wire between the fuel pump relay and its socket.
Assuming that the van has an electric fuel pump, this would be something to check.
Bill
Beth Young
On Thu, 26 Dec 1996, Tony Brooke wrote:
> I've read a few posts (such as by Malibu, below) that sound close to my
> problem, which my mechanic can't reproduce or fix after four attempts!
>
> 1982 Vanagon L, air-cooled, 104,000 miles
>
> Stalls out when idling, then won't restart until 20 mins to an hour later.
> It cranks but won't turn over. Lately it has been dying when I'm in gear as
> well.
>
> Recent unsuccessful fix attempts:
>
> Adjusted one cylinder's compression from 25 lbs up to 90 lbs.
> bypassed "D.I.S." (What's that?)
I assume that's short for digital idle stablizier. That's the black box
on the left side of the engine compartment with 2 round connectors.
> tightened and recrimped numerous wiring connections
> check all vacuum hoses
>
>
You don't say whether the engine is rich or not when it dies. If it's
dying because it's too rich, then I'd check the number 2 temp sensor. If
it's not flooding, then I might suspect the fuel filter. If you have a
non-Cal car, then you have the small plastic fuel filter. I've read that
these filters can get clogged from loose stuff coming out of the tank,
causing the engine to die. After waiting awhile, enough of the small
particles settle off the filter element, allowing the car to run until
the filter clogs again.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Young yo...@sherlock.SIMS.Berkeley.EDU
Lafayette, CA 94549 '81 Vanagon
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Tore Bergstr=?iso-8859-2?Q?=F6m
Could be the tenp sensor to the FI-box.
Had the same problem.
Try connecting the cable to ground thus simulating a hot engine to the
FI-brain.
Could also be a temporary help for a failing ignition coil giving too
weak spark.
Pardon my english.
Anyhow it's better than your swedish.
good luck
ToreB
Tony Brooke
Thanks to all for the tips so far on my nagging Vee-Dub prob. They've all
been entered into the
VW-diagnostic-o-matic-coin-flipper/mad-scientist/fickle-finger-of-fate
contest bin.
Hopefully the drawing will be soon to determine who had the closest shot.
Whoever was closest will receive...
ummmm..........
well.......
How about a free ride around San Francisco?
If there's no winner, there will be no prize. (And, unfortunately, I don't
keep the prize, as I'll not be riding around town.)
-Tony Brooke
My original post:
> 1982 Vanagon L, air-cooled, 104,000 miles
>
> Stalls out when idling, then won't restart until 20 mins to an hour later.
> It cranks but won't turn over. Lately it has been dying when I'm in gear as
> well.
>
> Recent unsuccessful fix attempts:
>
> Adjusted one cylinder's compression from 25 lbs up to 90 lbs.
> bypassed "D.I.S." (What's that?)
> tightened and recrimped numerous wiring connections
> check all vacuum hoses
>
> Other recent (unrelated?) repairs:
> new alternator (from bad jumpstart, #@$%^* !!, also blew a fuse)
> changed regulator/isolator wiring to stop a battery drain
> new battery last year
>
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