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need paint help
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ben dixon
Oct 27, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/27/99
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I have a '71 BMW 2002 that is needing a paint job. Are their any
professional painters on this list that would mind taking a few minutes and
go over the different types of paint and jobs that I should know about? I
hear people talking about base coat and clear coat and other people that
talk about enamel and that if you shoot w/ enamel you don't need to buff the
paint, is that true? Is the procedure of cutting and buffing only necessary
if you get junk in the paint, and what about swirl marks, is it worth the
risk. What advice can you offer? I can be reached at di...@magick.net or
if the info would benefit the whole group, then post away. thanx, ben
professional painters on this list that would mind taking a few minutes and
go over the different types of paint and jobs that I should know about? I
hear people talking about base coat and clear coat and other people that
talk about enamel and that if you shoot w/ enamel you don't need to buff the
paint, is that true? Is the procedure of cutting and buffing only necessary
if you get junk in the paint, and what about swirl marks, is it worth the
risk. What advice can you offer? I can be reached at di...@magick.net or
if the info would benefit the whole group, then post away. thanx, ben
Kafertoys
Oct 28, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/28/99
to
The first thing I would say to any one about a paint job is how much are you
willing to spend? and if you want a real nice professional painter to do it ,
the first thing out of your mouth after they give you the price should not be "
why can Maaco do it for a $1.99" The average cost for material for an all over
paint job that I do is around $300 to $350 for base/Clear coat paint jobs, then
add the $10,000 for doing the shooting (same price for people with leaf
blowers) a single stage paint job is just as nice a little cheaper (not much)
and is how most cars come from the factory. As far as buffing and swirl marks,
but a buffer in the right persons hands and you should not have swirls. You
should also take into concideration that most shops use only a few different
types of paint, where there are many out there. so your at there mercy when it
comes to the brands. Do a little running around to different bodyshops and look
at there work, ask lots of ?'s and upmost understand that you are looking to
spend $200 (cheap S@# t job) to $3600 (still wish I was the one to paint JH's
57)
willing to spend? and if you want a real nice professional painter to do it ,
the first thing out of your mouth after they give you the price should not be "
why can Maaco do it for a $1.99" The average cost for material for an all over
paint job that I do is around $300 to $350 for base/Clear coat paint jobs, then
add the $10,000 for doing the shooting (same price for people with leaf
blowers) a single stage paint job is just as nice a little cheaper (not much)
and is how most cars come from the factory. As far as buffing and swirl marks,
but a buffer in the right persons hands and you should not have swirls. You
should also take into concideration that most shops use only a few different
types of paint, where there are many out there. so your at there mercy when it
comes to the brands. Do a little running around to different bodyshops and look
at there work, ask lots of ?'s and upmost understand that you are looking to
spend $200 (cheap S@# t job) to $3600 (still wish I was the one to paint JH's
57)
Ken Kraay
Oct 28, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/28/99
to
I agree with Kafertoys, don't go the cheap route. An el' cheapo job
will maybe look good for awhile. The foundation of a professional paint
job, the part you can't see is what makes the difference between the
$200.00 job, and the $4000.00 paint job. I am a professional painter.
I only paint classics or hot rods. Now I am going to try y hand at my
newly acquired 76 SB convert.
Paint itself is expensive. I painted a 53 2-door caddy, the paint
alone was close to $800.00 plus the epoxy primer and the K-200 surface
primer come to well over $1000.00
I stopped using Base coat clear. Now I use Concept PPG 2-stage. When I
have a metallic paint then I use a Clear mixed in with the last coat of
color and follow up with about 2-3 coats of clear.
Enamel is fine, if your atmosphere is clean and no dust floating around
to settle on your fresh wet job. You might get by without color
sanding/buffing.
Kafertoys was correct about the buffing. You can screw up a good paint
fob or enhance one, depending on the operator.
I suggest painting with urethane paint, flexible and very durable.
Ken Kraay
will maybe look good for awhile. The foundation of a professional paint
job, the part you can't see is what makes the difference between the
$200.00 job, and the $4000.00 paint job. I am a professional painter.
I only paint classics or hot rods. Now I am going to try y hand at my
newly acquired 76 SB convert.
Paint itself is expensive. I painted a 53 2-door caddy, the paint
alone was close to $800.00 plus the epoxy primer and the K-200 surface
primer come to well over $1000.00
I stopped using Base coat clear. Now I use Concept PPG 2-stage. When I
have a metallic paint then I use a Clear mixed in with the last coat of
color and follow up with about 2-3 coats of clear.
Enamel is fine, if your atmosphere is clean and no dust floating around
to settle on your fresh wet job. You might get by without color
sanding/buffing.
Kafertoys was correct about the buffing. You can screw up a good paint
fob or enhance one, depending on the operator.
I suggest painting with urethane paint, flexible and very durable.
Ken Kraay
Ken Kraay
Oct 28, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/28/99
to
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