alumninum heads and Busted STUDS ! !?!~?@?!@?!?@
Z!
Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I did get
one out, it came out pretty easy... the other one... I do have enough to
grabit with a pair of vicegrips, but it will not budge.. I tried heating it,
banging it and putting rust buster on it.. it will not give... can I start the
car without the exaust manifolds on it and get the heads nice and warm then
try to vice grip it out or is that not going to work?
any other suggestions.. I know that some of you have done this before.. I just
dont want to pull the heads, drill it out and tap and heli-coil a wire in...
(I do have a good chunk of it to work with, should I weld another nut on the
end and try to twist it out ?! any ideas at all...)
z
MattZ!
Tell the truth then run... (Yugoslav Proverb)
--75' VW TYPE 1 -- Undergoing renovation !!
rich clinchy
FROM: PEERLESS AUTOMOTIVE
WEB: http://www.carpart.net
EMAIL: peer...@itw.com
PHONE (610) 346-7250
FAX (610) 346-9417
If you have no luck fixing your head we have NEW heads for $130 each plus shipping.
1600cc dual chamber
EMAIL OR CALL IF INTERESTED
Due to the rarity of most parts we find all first orders must be prepaid by
mastercard,visa,
discover,American Express or check unless otherwise stated. Used parts carry a 30 day
warranty , no labor
JBecker702
weld the nut on I've done it many times on many different studs and bolts that
heads have broken off of. It might take a few tries to get a weld that will
hold.
Jim
con...@sisna.com
> FROM: PEERLESS AUTOMOTIVE "We help nobody, but we'll make $$$ doing it"
> WEB: http://www.everymanforhimself.net
> EMAIL: gr...@itw.com
> PHONE XXX XXX XXXX
> FAX YYY YYY YYYY
>
> If you have no luck fixing your head we have NEW heads for $130 each plus
shipping.
> 1600cc dual chamber
>
> EMAIL OR CALL IF INTERESTED
>
> Due to the rarity of most parts we find all first orders must be prepaid by
> mastercard,visa,
> discover,American Express or check unless otherwise stated. Used parts carry a
30 day
> warranty , no labor
Nice blatant plug for your shop, without giving the guy some help. If you
are going to act like this, just send him a personal e-mail, and don't
come across as such a TAKER. Most participants of this NG (with some
exceptions) are more than willing to GIVE what they know, even if it is
limited (or sometimes wrong). I don't mind this, since they are at least
trying to help, which you are not.
I just don't want to see this NG turn into something resembling ANY of
the other ones, which is why I feel you deserved this flame.
John
non-profit (prophet???? :) )
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Dave
Z! wrote:
>
> Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I did get
> one out, it came out pretty easy... the other one... I do have enough to
> grabit with a pair of vicegrips, but it will not budge.. I tried heating it,
> banging it and putting rust buster on it.. it will not give... can I start the
> car without the exaust manifolds on it and get the heads nice and warm then
> try to vice grip it out or is that not going to work?
>
> any other suggestions.. I know that some of you have done this before.. I just
> dont want to pull the heads, drill it out and tap and heli-coil a wire in...
>
> (I do have a good chunk of it to work with, should I weld another nut on the
> end and try to twist it out ?! any ideas at all...)
>
> z
>
> MattZ!
>
> Tell the truth then run... (Yugoslav Proverb)
> --75' VW TYPE 1 -- Undergoing renovation !!
press to drill out the offending stud then tap the hole to a larger 10mm
size.The stus has a 10mm side and a 8mm size.I've done this a few times
when either the stud has broken off in the case or the threads are not
repairable.
Good luck!
P.S.Never run a Air Cooled engine without the complete exhaust system
connected!This does major internal damage to the heads and the engine!
Rob Boardman
rich clinchy wrote:
> > Z wrote
> > Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I did get
> > one out,
> > MattZ!
> >
> FROM: PEERLESS AUTOMOTIVE
clip
> If you have no luck fixing your head we have NEW heads for $130 each plus shipping.
> 1600cc dual chamber
>
newsgroup,
otherwise we'll start getting swamped with ads from every other
commercial
organisation selling VW stuff.
--
Rob Boardman
Steve Cindric
>Z! wrote:
>>
>> Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I
did get
to
>> grabit with a pair of vicegrips, but it will not budge.. I tried
heating it,
>> banging it and putting rust buster on it.. it will not give... can I
start the
>> car without the exaust manifolds on it and get the heads nice and warm
then
>> try to vice grip it out or is that not going to work?
>>
>> any other suggestions.. I know that some of you have done this before..
I just
>> dont want to pull the heads, drill it out and tap and heli-coil a wire
in...
>>
>> (I do have a good chunk of it to work with, should I weld another nut
on the
>> end and try to twist it out ?! any ideas at all...)
>>
>> z
RE: Welding a nut on.. I've had better success welding an Allen wrench on.
I have a little bag full of broken studs w/ these wrenches... easier to
weld, if you use a wrench the same size as the stud, and gives a little
clearance away from the head to get your torquing tool in. The heat from
the weld also SEEMS to penetrate the frozen threads a little better...
Good luck.
Steve in Mich.
'65 Ghia Coupe (Smedley)
'55 Sedan DeLuxe (TBD on completion)
Vintage VW Club of West Michigan
DesertAuto
>
Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I did get
>
one out, it came out pretty easy... the other one... I do have enough to
>
grabit with a pair of vicegrips, but it will not budge.. I tried heating it,
>
banging it and putting rust buster on it.. it will not give... can I start
>the
car without the exaust manifolds on it and get the heads nice and warm
>then
try to vice grip it out or is that not going to work?
I usually try to break them off and then drill them out. Don't use helicoils
though. They tend to let go on exhaust studs. Tap it to a 10x1.5 and use
a step stud.
darryl
Desert AutoHaus
16574 D Street
Victorville, CA 92392
760-243-1868
Z!
In article <666bn4$1qus$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>, DMB...@prodigy.com (Steve Cindric) wrote:
>
>RE: Welding a nut on.. I've had better success welding an Allen wrench on.
> I have a little bag full of broken studs w/ these wrenches... easier to
>weld, if you use a wrench the same size as the stud, and gives a little
>clearance away from the head to get your torquing tool in. The heat from
>the weld also SEEMS to penetrate the frozen threads a little better...
>Good luck.
>
>Steve in Mich.
>'65 Ghia Coupe (Smedley)
>'55 Sedan DeLuxe (TBD on completion)
>Vintage VW Club of West Michigan
>
Ill give it a try....
I ran outa oxygen, and brought the tank in to have it refilled, I needed to
have it recertified.. im getting it back in 2 weeks.. we will see then..
Don Guardrail
rich clinchy <peer...@itw.com> wrote:
>Z! wrote:
>>
>> Well that about says it all, I have 2 busted studs in the heads, I did get
>> one out, it came out pretty easy... the other one... I do have enough to
>> grabit with a pair of vicegrips, but it will not budge.. I tried heating it,
>> banging it and putting rust buster on it.. it will not give... can I start the
>> car without the exaust manifolds on it and get the heads nice and warm then
>> try to vice grip it out or is that not going to work?
>>
>> dont want to pull the heads, drill it out and tap and heli-coil a wire in...
>>
>> (I do have a good chunk of it to work with, should I weld another nut on the
>> end and try to twist it out ?! any ideas at all...)
>>
>> z
>>
>>
>> Tell the truth then run... (Yugoslav Proverb)
>> --75' VW TYPE 1 -- Undergoing renovation !!
>
> WEB: http://www.carpart.net
> EMAIL: peer...@itw.com
> PHONE (610) 346-7250
> FAX (610) 346-9417
>
>1600cc dual chamber
>
>
>
>
>Due to the rarity of most parts we find all first orders must be prepaid by
>mastercard,visa,
>discover,American Express or check unless otherwise stated. Used parts carry a 30 day
>warranty , no labor
Oh, christ, you are such a corporate weenie! You probably just read this
group and wait for someone to have a tech problem, so you can spring your
sales pitch on them. Go lick ass.
--
Don Guardrail
Evil Master of All That Is Dark, Gloomy, Painful and/or Slightly
Irritating
Jeffry Johnston
: > ...can I start the car without the exaust manifolds on it
: > and get the heads nice and warm...
: > MattZ!
: P.S.Never run a Air Cooled engine without the complete exhaust system
: connected!This does major internal damage to the heads and the engine!
Dave <Mr.mopar
Oh ya, Mr.Mopar? Like what?
Alvin Johnston <--Libertarian
Joe Cali - Next Generation
Mr. Mopar is correct you run too lean and it not only can burn your exhaust
valves but can start a fire or kill yourself from fumes.
Joe
Jeffry Johnston <jef...@primenet.com> wrote in article
<66d4uc$q...@nntp02.primenet.com>...
John Connolly
Assuming Mr. Mopar was referring to getting the heads slightly warm so
he can remove the old "exhaust system" (compete with holes, and maybe
incomplete), there is nothing wrong with running it long enough to aid
in the removal of the nuts holding on the exhaust flanges.
In fact, there is a method that I have been using for years that makes
the job a whole lot easier.
With a cold engine, start it up. Let it run until the exhaust is warm to
your touch (you can still hold your hand on it). Turn the engine off,
and install a REAL penetrating oil on the offending parts (not WD-40 or
Liquid Wrench). Wait 30 minutes and then loosen the nuts. Works like a
charm.
John
Dave Hall
It's good advice to use heat and penetrating oil to free tight exhaust nuts,
and helps avoid putting too much torque on the studs. Wire brushing rust
off the stud tip first and undoing a bit then doing up the nut slightly can
save breaking a stud due to rust packing between the threads.
If you use special anti-seize grease (Copperease is one brand
in the UK) it should come apart easily next time.
If you can find any original VW fitting kits with non-corroding thread
inserts and copper plated long-nosed nuts to cover the stud threads to
reduce rusting, that helps too.
Sadly, I don't think even VW supply these quality products any more.
Dave.
--
Da...@spam.me.nothallvw.clara.co.uk
Please delete "spam.me.not" when replying!
Check out the VW Type 3 & 4 Club website
at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/
for great pics, news and technical advice.
>> Jeffry Johnston <jef...@primenet.com> wrote in article
>> <66d4uc$q...@nntp02.primenet.com>...
>> > : > ...can I start the car without the exaust manifolds on it
>> > : > and get the heads nice and warm...
>In fact, there is a method that I have been using for years that makes
Dave Savage
I got a cool tool out of the Mcmaster Carr catalog which is a stud
remover with a tapered internally splined socket. I heated up my
broken studs until they glowed a bit (with mapp gas) tapped the stud
remover onto them a bit and they turned out without a problem. I had
spent days with propane, liquid wrench and vise grips before getting
this tool. The thing cost $18, but was well worth it.
Z!
>> > Alvin Johnston <--Libertarian
>> >
>
>
>Assuming Mr. Mopar was referring to getting the heads slightly warm so
>he can remove the old "exhaust system" (compete with holes, and maybe
>incomplete), there is nothing wrong with running it long enough to aid
>in the removal of the nuts holding on the exhaust flanges.
>
>In fact, there is a method that I have been using for years that makes
>the job a whole lot easier.
>
>With a cold engine, start it up. Let it run until the exhaust is warm to
umm I have 'NO' exaust system... I have the whole system off right now (got
new/used heater boxs and tubes. I have them sitting in a bucket of
electrolyte and my bechtop poewr supply burning the rust off.. (god they look
new !!! ) then im coating them with heatproof paint...
anyways it is the exauast ports open to the world..
is this ok ?! or am I getting this confused?
>your touch (you can still hold your hand on it). Turn the engine off,
>and install a REAL penetrating oil on the offending parts (not WD-40 or
please define "real penatrating oil"??
>Liquid Wrench). Wait 30 minutes and then loosen the nuts. Works like a
>charm.
>
>John
MattZ!
Michael Alan Thebo
without welding equiptment at our easy disposal.
also, I doubt you have enough to work with in this case, but I have
ground broken off ends of other things down with a dremel tool (making
two BIG sides and using an open end wrench) and this has taken every one
of them out.
Mike
Z!
In article <66fn74$2...@snews3.zippo.com>, dcs...@itw.com wrote:
>I got a cool tool out of the Mcmaster Carr catalog which is a stud
>remover with a tapered internally splined socket. I heated up my
>broken studs until they glowed a bit (with mapp gas) tapped the stud
>remover onto them a bit and they turned out without a problem. I had
>spent days with propane, liquid wrench and vise grips before getting
>this tool. The thing cost $18, but was well worth it.
>
>
>"Dave Hall" <da...@spam.me.nothallvw.clara.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>It's good advice to use heat and penetrating oil to free tight exhaust nuts,
>>and helps avoid putting too much torque on the studs. Wire brushing rust
>>off the stud tip first and undoing a bit then doing up the nut slightly can
>>save breaking a stud due to rust packing between the threads.
>
>>If you use special anti-seize grease (Copperease is one brand
>>in the UK) it should come apart easily next time.
>
>>If you can find any original VW fitting kits with non-corroding thread
>>inserts and copper plated long-nosed nuts to cover the stud threads to
>>reduce rusting, that helps too.
>>Sadly, I don't think even VW supply these quality products any more.
>
>>Dave.
>>--
Im about ready to chase down the snap-on guy..
Thanks for the info everyone.. Weellll Im still trying to get the damn thing
out.. Im left with a pair or rounded out vicegrips, a propane torche (I ran
outta oxygen and have to wait a few weeks to get the tank back from testing)
and a half a bottle of liquid wrench.. Im going to wait for my o2 tank and im
going to probally weld a nut or allen key on there,..try that first then try
everthing else..
z
keep@nospam
On Sun, 07 Dec 1997 06:41:18 -0700, John Connolly <con...@sisna.com>
wrote:
8<
>and install a REAL penetrating oil on the offending parts (not WD-40 or
>Liquid Wrench). Wait 30 minutes and then loosen the nuts. Works like a
>charm.
And the name of said REAL penetrating oil is...?
John Spohn
'70 Type 265 LHD
Crew Cab Pickup
David W. Allen (http://web2.airmail.net/davida)
>>and install a REAL penetrating oil on the offending parts (not WD-40 or
>>Liquid Wrench). Wait 30 minutes and then loosen the nuts. Works like a
>>charm.
>And the name of said REAL penetrating oil is...?
Get some PB Blaster - available at Pep Boys. Not cheap, but take it
from a guy with a Thing named 'Rusty', it really works!!!
DWA
'74 Thing
aush
Originally advertised in the 80’s in Hot VW’s, VW Trends, VW & Porsche
Magazine, J.C. Whitney and sold at that time for over 50 bucks..
Now less than half price!!!
2 hours of SEEING "How To" do it.. NOT a "Hollywood" production
BUT betcha you’ll like it!!
A Shop rebuild of a stock 1600 long block.. From ground Zero -
case-rods - cranks-assembly-end play-torque’s-heads-deck height-cam and
lifter basics-heads-the simplest way to set your valves and
more...more.... And the same basics apply to 40hp, 1300, 1500, even you
Buckaroos who want to take it up a notch or two...
How to Rebuild a VW Engine
2 Hours Copyright 1982
$22.00 + 2.50 Shipping
TOTAL $24.50
(Check or M.O.)
(Make payment to)
ROOSTER VIDEO
9800 - D Topanga Canyon Road
Suite - 212
Chatsworth, CA. 91311
Andrew
On Mon, 29 Dec 1997 08:36:10 -0800, aush <pi...@ldet.eral> wrote:
STOP POSTING THIS DAMN AD YOU FUCKING ASSHOLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>"HOW TO REBUILD A VW ENGINE ON VIDEO"
>...
<snip>
>
>How to Rebuild a VW Engine
>2 Hours Copyright 1982
>
> $22.00 + 2.50 Shipping
> TOTAL $24.50
> (Check or M.O.)
>
>(Make payment to)
> ROOSTER VIDEO
>
>9800 - D Topanga Canyon Road
>Suite - 212
>Chatsworth, CA. 91311
\|/
(o o)
+----------------------oOO--(_)--OOo----------------------+
| gandalf (a.k.a. Andrew) e-mail : gan...@aracnet.com |
| 78 rabbit 154k still going - 71 bug-a work in progress |
| http://www.aracnet.com/~gandalf - my VW page |
| http://www.aracnet.com/~gandalf/rcv/ |
| Rose City Volksters test page |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| "i dont know why everyone is yelling at me, |
| i thought it went pretty good" |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
Sterlng007
At least you put in a warning. Let's all do our best to get rid of the video
jerk.
Ron
66 single cab (undergoing full restoration)
73 beetle (being customized eventually)
___
/ i__ I_________ /_o_\
( _/ \______/ \_I I
O O /\