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gland nut removal

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John R Luckey

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Jun 18, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/18/96
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Any tricks to removing the flywheel nut?? I've stood on a 3 ft. piece of pipe,
on a 2 ft. 1/2 in. breaker bar, and the nut won't budge.

Joshua Van Tol

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Jun 18, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/18/96
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In article <4q6rbb$24...@chnews.ch.intel.com>, jlu...@getnet.com (John R
Luckey) wrote:

Use an air powered impact wrench.

--
Joshua Van Tol - jjva...@cc.memphis.edu

John William Kuthe

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Jun 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/19/96
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In article <4q6rbb$24...@chnews.ch.intel.com>,

John R Luckey <jlu...@getnet.com> wrote:
>Any tricks to removing the flywheel nut?? I've stood on a 3 ft. piece of pipe,
>on a 2 ft. 1/2 in. breaker bar, and the nut won't budge.

Here's a method that I've used, and have broken gland nuts when
tightening them, but only the weak ones:

First, you need a 3/4" drive flex handle and a 3/4" drive, 36mm
*impact* socket, and 2 five foot pieces of gas pipe from the hardware
store, and about a 14" section of angle iron.

Drill 2 holes in the angle iron for 2 non-adjacent pressure plate
mounting bolts to go through. Now weld that piece of angle iron to the
side of one of the pieces of 5 foot gas pipe. Now you have a lever
which can be bolted to the flywheel, to keep the motor from flipping
over when you:

Apply torque to the gland nut with the 36mm *impact* socket, attached
to the 3/4' flex handle, with the other piece of 5 foot gas pipe over
it!

The 36mm socket also works just dandy for removing axle nuts, but you
gotta have a good parking brake, else your car will go a-rollin,
rollin, as you try to twist the axle nut off!

Make sure you get good, heavy wall gas pipe, and not that cheap
galvanized crap. I've bent the thinner walled galvanized pipe before.


I love impact sockets! They don't break like even Craftsman forged
sockets will. I have a 19mm impact socket that no lug bolt in the
*world* can resist the charms of!

I've also found that nary a lower shock mounting boly which has rusted
on over many years, can resist being heated to a cherry red with an
oxyacetylene torch!

Extreme resistance requires extreme actions!


--
John Kuthe, aka jw...@cec.wustl.edu, St. Louis, Missouri |MWA Homepage:http://|
First Job of Government: Protect people from govermment.| www.missouri.edu/ |
Second Job of Government: Protect people from each other.| ~c681357/mwa.html |
It must *never* become the job of government to protect people from themselves!

Andrew M. Moore

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Jun 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/19/96
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John R Luckey (jlu...@getnet.com) wrote:
: Any tricks to removing the flywheel nut?? I've stood on a 3 ft. piece of pipe,
: on a 2 ft. 1/2 in. breaker bar, and the nut won't budge.

Uh oh - you aren't *tightening* it, are you? :)

Unless you have tried this already, the next step is probably to apply
some penetrating oil, let it sit for a day or two, and try again with
the breaker bars.

I assume the flywheel is locked with the appropriate locking tool.
What are you using?

Andrew M. Moore


Jeffry Johnston

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Jun 20, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/20/96
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John William Kuthe wrote:
: Drill 2 holes in the angle iron for 2 non-adjacent pressure plate

: mounting bolts to go through.
: Now you have a lever which can be bolted to the flywheel...

I use a 2 1/2 ft long piece of bed frame, all the bed frame I've messed
with was heat treated medium carbon steel, just like mechanics tools.
It's got several holes drilled in it for various uses. (not all VW)

: Apply torque to the gland nut with the 36mm *impact* socket, attached


: to the 3/4' flex handle, with the other piece of 5 foot gas pipe over
: it!

Sounds real good, I don't happen to have these but do have an old Proto
1 7/16" combination wrench for the 36mm nuts and an old Williams 1 5/8"
combination wrench for the 41mm nuts.

: The 36mm socket also works just dandy for removing axle nuts...
: Make sure you get good, heavy wall gas pipe...

Same here...I use a 4 1/2 ft long piece of bed frame (2"x1 1/2") drilled
on the 2" side at both ends to be mounted on the drum tightly, then even a
rather short 1 7/16" combination wrench seems to be plenty when the drum
is kept from turning, solidly. The 3/4 inch drive stuff would prob'ly be
best if a guy were to have to buy it. Either way, check the yellow
pages for used tools. I also have a Blue Point 1 7/16" - 1 1/2" boxed end
wrench, paid $10 the 1 7/16" combination $5, the Williams 1 5/8"
combination was purchased with a s**t load of other tools but about $15,
it's one of my favorites, I used the heck out of it at work!

You would prob'ly figure this out the first time you go to use the drum
holding bar, but one end lays on the ground pointing to the rear of the
car for loosening the right side and points toward the front when
tightening the right side.

Sorry didn't mean to insult your intelligence.
Just meant to help you picture it in use. ;-)

It must never become the job of government to protect people from themselves!

This is a RIGHT. It's supposed to be guaranteed in the 9th admendment.
Maybe US citizens will actually get to exersize this right again, someday. :-)
(When the Supreme Court gets a back bone)

Alvin Johnston <--Libertarian

chrisddr

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Jun 22, 1996, 3:00:00 AM6/22/96
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There is no substitute for a impact wrench and a IMPACT socket. Don't use
a chrome socket....you will end up with shredded hands.

--
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