one notch on VW pulley.. TDC ?
tropical
old one it had 2 notches.
IS it the single notch TDC ? and how far to the right would I mark 7.5
degrees for timing my SVDA distributer ?
Thank You
Tony 1966 beetle
dave AKA vwdoc1
then use a protractor to mark degrees on it. Hold up that piece of
cardboard to the new pulley and mark any degree spots you want including the
max advance you want to run.
Not sure if you can print out a protractor in that exact size that you need
from this site:
http://www.ossmann.com/protractor/
Easy huh? ;-)
--
later,
(One out of many daves)
" tropical" <bugb...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:asWFk.58490$XB4....@bignews9.bellsouth.net...
tropical
Timing marks on stock Pulleys
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Tony 1966 VW Beetle restored and timed
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1...@pleasehotmail.com> wrote in message
news:SJ3Gk.3405$yr3...@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...
Bob Hoover
mechanics.
It's an old spark plug. The rolled edge that secures the porcelain to
the metal body must be removed. You can do it with a file, a grinder
or a lathe.
Once the rolled edge is removed there is nothing to retain the
porcelain and it may be removed.
Get rid of the ground tang.
Find a piece of aluminum that will fit into the hole through the metal
body. It must be long enough to extend BEYOND the edge of the
threaded end of the metal body by at least 3/4"
Clean the aluminum rod and the interior of the metal body. You want
them grease-free.
Mix some filled epoxy such as J.B.Weld and glue the aluminum rod into
the metal body. Allow it to cure for at least 24 hours.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
At TDC the piston will touch the aluminum rod. Approach TDC slowly.
Too much energy here and you will damage the piston.
You may use other materials for the rod; even wood will work if you
are VERY careful when bringing the piston into contact.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bring the engine APPROXIMATELY to TDC on #1 cylinder by watching the
rotor in the distributor.
Remove the #1 cylinder spark plug.
Install the modified spark plug. If the piston is in the way, rotate
the engine by a SMALL amount so the modified spark plug is fully
seated.
Install masking tape across the pulley so as to cover the area of the
TDC marks.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
To find TDC, rotate the engine until the piston touches the rod of the
modified spark plug. Using a marking pen, mark the masking tape where
it aligns with the parting line of the crankcase.
Then rotate the engine in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION... until the piston
touches the rod of the modified spark plug. Using a marking pen,
mark the masking tape where it aligns with the parting line of the
crankcase.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
TDC is EXACTLY half way between the two marks with a precision of
better than a quarter of a degree. This is called the BOLT-STOP
method of determining TDC.
Position a Degree Wheel to align with TDC. Use the Degree Wheel to
determine any locations of interest, such as 5 degrees after TDC, 7.5
degrees before TDC and so forth.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
If you do not have a Degree Wheel you can print one with your
computer. Printable degree wheels have been posted many times; simply
track one down and print it out.
If you are unable to come up with a degree wheel, measure the diameter
of the pulley. Do this several times until you are sure you're
measurement is correct. Multiply your measurement by pi. Divide the
product by 360. The result is the length of ONE DEGREE. Multiply
that amount by the number of degrees of interest (ie, 5, 7.5, 10,
etc.) Measure that distance on the edge of your pulley and mark it.
File a notch at that location.
To make the marks easy to read, give the pulley a spritz of black
paint. Using a Q-tip or similar dobber, use WHITE paint to FILL the
notches. Using your thumb or similar tool, wipe off any excess paint.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Many after-market degree wheel pulleys are wildly inaccurate, being
off by as much as five degrees.
The notch on the pulley is only an APPROXIMATION of TDC, provided as a
convenience for ignition timing. It is NOT accurate enough for
setting up your valve-train geometry.
Drawings and photos of this procedure has been included in articles
in my blog. But the blog now has over 300 articles and I can't
remember which ones addressed this problem
-Bob Hoover
tropical
Thank You for sharing your wisdom through the years to keep our VW'S
running and properly at that. The vacuum advance dizzy is great !
I found a Bruck German made SVDA repro part # VWC-043-905-205 same part #
as the Bently manual has listed for my 1966 Bug , to replace that 009 !
What a great improvement much smoother and hope enjoy the improved mpg with
these trying times .
Tony
1966 beetle
"Bob Hoover" <veed...@isp.com> wrote in message
news:07443b2c-23e0-4573...@l42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Bob Hoover
> Bob
> Thank You for sharing your wisdom through the years to keep our VW'S
> running and properly at that. The vacuum advance dizzy is great !
> I found a Bruck German made SVDA repro part # VWC-043-905-205 same part #
> as the Bently manual has listed for my 1966 Bug , to replace that 009 !
> What a great improvement much smoother and hope enjoy the improved mpg with
> these trying times .
It's a definite help. If you haven't replaced your points with an
electronic module that should be your next step. With mechanical
points they start to wear from the minute they're adjusted. The
electronic unit will stay in adjustment for 25,000 miles or more.
Toe-in is another big gas waster since the toe-angle is actually
defining the allowable limit the tires can SCRUB sideways. Some toe-
in is required for best drive-ability but for optimum economy you want
to use the LEAST amount. This will add a tad to driver-effort --
you're going to have to steer the thing full-time -- but the reduced
scrubbing means better mileage.
Valve adjustment, cooling and clutch adjustment all contribute to
better mileage; far more-so than the Conventional Wisdom bullshit
about keeping your windows rolled up and so forth. Indeed,ANYTIME the
engine has to turn extra revs to get from Point A to Point B, it's
costing you more fuel.
-Bob Hoover