sand seal pulley that doesn't require maching the case

[shagadelli...@aircooled.net]

Hi all. I was browsing some baja sites today and a couple of them
reminded me of something I've heard before, and that is that there's
no seal on the pulley end of the crank, and that sand can actually get
"sucked into" the engine. I checked aircooled.net and they sell the
kit that requires the machining of the case, but apparently there are
kits available that don't require this. Anyone have a source for
this? Check out below...I cut and pasted it from this (
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/4099/ ) guy's page...

<start of cut>
The main thing here is to install a "sand seal pulley". The stock
pulley has a spiral cork screw thing machined into it so that it pulls
oil back into the case. There isn't a proper seal of any kind. It can
pull sand into your engine which can destroy it in no time. A sand
seal is also important for any baja going off-road in general. I'd go
as far as to say that it is a necessity.

The one i have is a "bolt in" kit, a seal with a degree wheel
crankshaft pully. The seal fits tight in the case, you just tap it in
with a piece of wood and a hammer, use red loc-tite to keep it in.
Bolt in the pulley just like a regular one. The rubber part of the
seal fits flush with the shaft of the pulley, thus, sealing out sand.
There are also kits that require machining the case. Obviously, this
requires more work, though.
<end of cut>

Travis (Shaggie the Redneck Psycho Butcher)
'63 VW Baja Beetle in progress
Remove SPAMINATOR from email address to reply
http://www.employees.org/~travist/vw/Bug_Adventures.html

[JG]

I have one in my 1835. Works great.
It's also a REALLY heavy pully, (sort of works like a harmonic balancer) &
really cuts down vibration.
I got it in Hayward California at the Buggy Haus on Mission Blvd.

cheers,
- JG

[Randy in Alaska]

Talk with John C. at aircooled.net he sells the non-machining style sandseal
as well. I got one from him and installed it on my 2276cc engine the last
go around. Hasn't leaked a drop. You have to get a different pully to use
with the slip in sand seal though. Drop John C. an email, he'll set you up.

--
Randy in Alaska
Aurora Air-cooled Club of Alaska, Founder & President

'65RHD Sunroof Bug <Jewel>
'68 Bug in progress (Baja?)
http://home.gci.net/~randyinalaska/vwpage.html

[shagadelli...@aircooled.net]

Cool. Thanks. Just did.

On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:02:47 -0900, "Randy in Alaska" <ra...@gci.net>
wrote:

[Mark]

Just a note, sometimes you will need to add a breather fitting to a valve
cover or some where to take over for the air that use to come from the
pully-oil slinger area.
MAC

[PEPPE]

it work well.
I prefer machining the case and the pulley and installing a small seal.
PEPPE

[Raymond T. Lowe]

I used the "slip in" seal version years ago. I bought a 30mm
combination wrench which fits the pulley bolt and I used
Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket on the tight fitting surface
of the seal holder that goes into the case. This particular
product will keep the seal holder from ever moving or leaking
yet allows easy removal with two large screwdrivers. A large
visegrip with the jaws padded will brace the pulley to loosen
and tighten the pulley bolt if you have the style with no holes.
It also doesn't hurt to loosen the stud nuts just above and just
below the opening when do this.

I could swap seals in under 15 minutes from lifting the decklid
without touching the breast tin.

RT
--
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<shagadelli...@aircooled.net> wrote in message
news:3c4c848e....@news.cisco.com...
> Cool. Thanks. Just did.

[Bugzilla]

Hey Shag, I used a slip-in (non-machine) sand seal in my 1600 and forced it
to breathe through the valve covers. I bought a breather kit for it and
rigged up a positive crankcase ventilation. I installed an "eductor" in the
exhaust stinger. It's essentially a hole cut in the collector with a length
of pipe welded to it. When the engine is running, it pulls quite a bit of
vacuum through the pipe, much like an intake manifold vacuum but does
contaminate the intake charge. On the pipe I installed a one-way valve so
there is no chance of exhaust gas entering the crankcase, in case it
backfires or something. Then I just ran a hose to the oil filler, and my
engine breathes! Just make sure you filter the incoming air... the kit I
bought has a nice aluminum breather with am oiled foam filter in it. These
pics show the eductor:

http://members.home.net/thall72/DSCF3594.JPG
http://members.home.net/thall72/DSCF3596.JPG

but you can't really see the breather... I can take more pics if ya want.

I did all this because I had a nasty little oil leak from the pully that
bugged the sh*t out of me! It marked it's territory, I guess. Later I
found 2 broken rings which certainly contributed to the problem! Now it is
almost oil free! OK, I got the normal pushrod seal drip now and then...
I'll save that one for a rainy day!

By the way, that was about 6 years ago when I fabricated this setup on a
used tri-mil exhaust. After welding it up, I sent it to get it
ceramic-coated. Best $200 I ever spent! But don't wait until it rusts to
have it done, send it in while it is new. As you can see all the little
rust spots are forever preserved under the coating (yes, it was sand-blasted
first).

To answer your question, I suggest the machine-in type (I slathered mine
with JB weld for added insurance).

--
"Bugzilla"
--
1973 SuperBaja
1959 Euro Baja
1958 Ragtop
http://members.home.net/59ragtop
http://members.home.net/73bugzilla
<shagadelli...@aircooled.net> wrote in message
news:3c4c6691....@news.cisco.com...

[John Connolly]

I added the sand seal pulleys today.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=esm0029

Be aware that you MUST have a crankcase breather hose vented to your air
filter, or to a breather box, IF YOU HAVE A SAND SEAL PULLEY OR NOT!

Sand seals keep dirt OUT, they "kinda" keep oil in, but keeping dirt/sand
OUT is what they are designed for. A good seal for keeping oil in is $$$ and
requires pulley and case machining (we rent or sell the tool if you want to
do this, it works even on an assembled engine).

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

<shagadelli...@aircooled.net> wrote in message
news:3c4c6691....@news.cisco.com...

[chris perdue]

>I bought a breather kit for it and
>rigged up a positive crankcase ventilation. I installed an "eductor" in the
>exhaust stinger. It's essentially a hole cut in the collector with a length
>of pipe welded to it. When the engine is running, it pulls quite a bit of
>vacuum through the pipe, much like an intake manifold vacuum but does
>contaminate the intake charge. On the pipe I installed a one-way valve so
>there is no chance of exhaust gas entering the crankcase, in case it
>backfires or something. Then I just ran a hose to the oil filler, and my
>engine breathes! Just make sure you filter the incoming air... the kit I
>bought has a nice aluminum breather with am oiled foam filter in it. These
>pics show the eductor:

man zilla i am glad you posted this..i had seen the pics of your engine before
and wondered what the hell is that....great idea...

chris
68 bug in the process
69bug depanned and loaded to be scrapped
74 bug shivering cause it knows its next!!
(remove "puter" to reply)

[shagadelli...@aircooled.net]

On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:53:27 -0700, "John Connolly"
<jo...@aircooled.net> wrote:

>I added the sand seal pulleys today.
>
>http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=esm0029
>
>Be aware that you MUST have a crankcase breather hose vented to your air
>filter, or to a breather box, IF YOU HAVE A SAND SEAL PULLEY OR NOT!
>

Does the hose I have currently running from my oil filler tube
reservoir thingie just next to the oil filler cap count? Here's a
picture of the one I'm talking about:
http://www.employees.org/~travist/vw/thisone.jpg
Stock 1200 engine except for the header/stinger, and the open-element
air cleaner. Thanks for input.

[John Connolly]

yes, it will work fine.

John

<shagadelli...@aircooled.net> wrote in message
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