2110 OK for daily driver?
Emily Steed
my own tuneups and minor repairs (thanks to How to Keep your...) so
not afraid of getting in the engine. But...car is to be a daily
driver, just want more zoooom. Question, configuration I am thinking
about is
a) 2100 ccs
b) Weber 44's, steel crossbar linkage
c) Lightened flywheel
d) Mechanical advance distributor
e) Alternator
f) External oil filter, full flow
g) Steel braided fuel lines
h) Degree pulley
i) Tuck away Turbo exhaust, with POR 20 finish
j) Oil temperature sensing dipstick from Gene Berg, GB 227
http://www.geneberg.com/parts.htm
k) Fuel filter next to transmission
l) 8 Dowel Crankshaft
m) 3 components of Pertronix system
Now how about all the scare stories I have heard from my friends, i.e.
will be unreliable, will not be a smooth driver like the 1600, it's a
grenade waiting to blow, will need to be tuned up every 1-2 thousand
miles...
Opinions, experiences with this engine size and configuration? TIA
for any advice.
Emily
John Rutledge
daily driver. It really depends on the individual, though. I'd say give it
a whirl and see for yourself. It's not that difficult nor expensive to swap
back if you get tired of it.
John
Emily Steed <Shel...@Bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:3a8ae1e9....@news.cis.dfn.de...
> c) Lightened flywheel
> ... will not be a smooth driver like the 1600...
Eric Allred
the parts the longblock will be comprised of.
THAT will determine if you can make it a daily driver or not.
I've driven my 2276cc daily for over a year (been parked for a couple
weeks now while I tweak a few things)
Dont skip on the internals, or you'll regret it. If you're interested,
I have a list of all the major parts I used on my engine at my site.
Eric
59 bug
64 bug
http://www.geocities.com/eaallred
James W. Lindsay
Stick with a stock-weight flywheel for city driving. You don't really
notice too much of an improvement on a big engine using a lightened
flywheel except in second gear. Third and fourth gear don't allow the RPMs
to increase that rapidly anyway, so the reduced mass doesn't really do
anything for you. While 1st gear starts will allow you to accelerate
slightly faster than with a stock-weight flywheel, it only lasts for about
100-150 feet before you have to shift into second. Likewise, a lightened
flywheel will lose more RPMs between shifts. Finally, the lower rotating
mass makes for jerky driving in 1st and 2nd gear at low RPMs (like when you
are searching for a parking space or lugging along in rush hour traffic).
You also failed to mention a few very important ingredients for this
potential engine:
n) cam choice (including rockers and valve springs)
o) cylinder heads (valve size and degree of porting involved)
p) solid rocker shaft kit
q) 1.5 qt Berg sump (or clone)
I'd recommend an Engle 110 cam and a set of ported & polished Berg
40x35.5mm heads (expensive, I know, but you'll get much better performance
and encounter less tuning problems) for a street engine. Add dual valve
springs and a blueprinted 26mm Berg oil pump. Don't forget steel braided
oil lines for your remote filter either.
----------------------------------------------------------------
James W. Lindsay Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Website: http://members.home.net/jlindsay ICQ: #7521644
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dumb luck beats sound planning every time. Trust me.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Searoy
No. It's too small. Go 2332 or larger or don't bother.
;)
Do all
> my own tuneups and minor repairs (thanks to How to Keep your...) so
> not afraid of getting in the engine. But...car is to be a daily
> driver, just want more zoooom. Question, configuration I am thinking
> about is
> a) 2100 ccs
> b) Weber 44's, steel crossbar linkage
> c) Lightened flywheel
Don't lighten the flywheel on a street car.
> d) Mechanical advance distributor
Add vacuum advance on a street car. You won't always run it full throttle.
> e) Alternator
> f) External oil filter, full flow
> g) Steel braided fuel lines
> h) Degree pulley
Get a good one, and it will cost you. The cheapie aluminum ones are
terrible.
> i) Tuck away Turbo exhaust, with POR 20 finish
Getting creative are we? Turbo's are always good. Or do you mean turbo
muffler?
> j) Oil temperature sensing dipstick from Gene Berg, GB 227
> http://www.geneberg.com/parts.htm
> k) Fuel filter next to transmission
> l) 8 Dowel Crankshaft
> m) 3 components of Pertronix system
You only need the distributor module. Then add a CDI. Use a stock Bosche
blue coil.
>
> Now how about all the scare stories I have heard from my friends, i.e.
> will be unreliable, will not be a smooth driver like the 1600, it's a
> grenade waiting to blow, will need to be tuned up every 1-2 thousand
> miles...
That depends on so many things you did not even mention.
Jetting of the carbs?
Cam selection?
Fan shroud selection?
Vehicle and intended use?
"Streetable" means differnt things to different people. If you want it to
drive as tame as a modern car until you stomp it that's one thing. If you
want it to idle (at all) but don't care where (2800RPM?) that s'nother.
--
*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy
San Diego, CA
66 Sedan 1600dp (SPARKY)
70 Fastback 1600 dp (Tex)
65 Notchback (Frankenstein)
T4 EFI-T powered imagination (X4)
2 car garage APPROVED!
danm tpyos
Shad Laws
Just a couple things to add to what the others have already said...
> a) 2100 ccs
90.5mm P&C are a good bet indeed, so 2110 or 2007 both work well. 94mm also
are great for the more adventurous :-)
> b) Weber 44's, steel crossbar linkage
That'll do nicely. The stock 36mm venturis should be a great size for your
engine. Make sure you jet them well!
> c) Lightened flywheel
Not necessarily needed.
> d) Mechanical advance distributor
Bad idea. Check out VW Trends - they have a great distributor tech article
series going on from March thru May that'll tell ya how to properly modify
distributors for performance (i.e. high HP, good gas mileage, and long
life!) engines. And, no, my opinion on those articles is not at all biased
:-) hehe...
> e) Alternator
Groovy.
> f) External oil filter, full flow
Groovy. You didn't mention choice of oil cooler... IMHO, go with a doghouse
or, if you feel that you need it, modify the fan shroud to accept a T4
cooler. The T4 cooler looks like a doghouse cooler only that it is wider.
Trust me - unless you want a work of art, modifying a fan shroud to accept a
T4 cooler is not near as difficult task as its made out to be. You need tin
snips, sheet metal, a drill, sheet metal screws, weather stripping, and some
spray paint. Easy and cheap.
> g) Steel braided fuel lines
Groovy. Rubber works, too...
> h) Degree pulley
If ya like, you can splurge and get a better, heavier, balancing pulley and
put on a degree ring. It's more expensive, though... but a good idea.
> i) Tuck away Turbo exhaust, with POR 20 finish
Groovy. Whatcha doing for heater boxes?
> j) Oil temperature sensing dipstick from Gene Berg, GB 227
> http://www.geneberg.com/parts.htm
Oil temperature doesn't really matter. A MUCH better mark of "engine
temperature" is a thermocouple on your #3 spark plug, i.e. your cylinder
head temperature. Get a VDO cyl. head temp gauge kit - it's much better.
> k) Fuel filter next to transmission
Groovy. However, you can also get one inside your fuel pump or, in the case
of some carbs (are the new IDFs in this category? I dunno.), in the
carburetor itself.
> l) 8 Dowel Crankshaft
Groovy. I won't go on about engine internals, others have already done it
in this thread... it's what counts!
> m) 3 components of Pertronix system
>
What are the three components?
Basically, get NGK copper plugs, some good wires, a good distributor, a
points eliminator (I like Compufire better), a good ol' Bosch blue coil, and
a CDI module. For the CDI module, you can get an expensive MSD box or a
little Universal Tiger one from www.aircooled.net - for your size engine,
the little one does the same job.
> Now how about all the scare stories I have heard from my friends, i.e.
> will be unreliable, will not be a smooth driver like the 1600, it's a
> grenade waiting to blow, will need to be tuned up every 1-2 thousand
> miles...
>
Build it correctly. Tune it correctly. It'll do fine. Although, I must
admit, a T4 of around the same size has the potential to last even longer
with less work...
Take care,
Shad