Solex 30 PICT-2
David Fisher
Solex 30 PICT-2 (the large screw with the spring)? I've always set it
at about 1.5 turns out and the plugs look about right but am unsure of
how to tell where I should be. Car runs OK with a stock single vac.
advance but has a very slight hesitation. I am also unclear as to
exactly what this adjusts, presumably high-speed mixture only.
Also, on the right side of the carb facing the generator is a small
screw plug that is tapered on the inside like a needle valve. Is this
something adjustable or just a plug? What is there that holds it in
place and keeps it from turning? Mine seems to just screw in with no
retainer of any kind but I don't know how far in to set it...right now
it is about flush with the outside of the carb.
Thanks for any help!
--
------------------------
David Fisher
Chico, CA
(dave...@earthling.net)
------------------------
GazMP
In article <360D208C...@earthling.net>, David Fisher
<dave...@earthling.net> writes:
>Can anyone tell me the correct way to adjust the main needle on the
>Solex 30 PICT-2 (the large screw with the spring)? I've always set it
>at about 1.5 turns out and the plugs look about right but am unsure of
>how to tell where I should be. Car runs OK with a stock single vac.
>advance but has a very slight hesitation. I am also unclear as to
>exactly what this adjusts, presumably high-speed mixture only.
>
I usuall set this screw to 2 turns out and adjust from there. It is the idle
mixture screw not a main jet screw. You can get main jet adjusters, I've got
one, never used it though.
If the car runs ok, leave well along. The hesitation could be a few things,
when does it happen? There is an accelerator pump on the right of the carb, it
has a lever coming out of it that links to the venturi shaft (the bit the cable
bolts to) and when you accelerate it squirts fuel down the choke of the carb,
if this diaphram is damaged it can cause a hesitation when you put your foot
down.
Gaz
Gaz
David Fisher
>
> I usuall set this screw to 2 turns out and adjust from there. It is the idle
> mixture screw not a main jet screw. You can get main jet adjusters, I've got
> one, never used it though.
> If the car runs ok, leave well along. The hesitation could be a few things,
> when does it happen? There is an accelerator pump on the right of the carb, it
> has a lever coming out of it that links to the venturi shaft (the bit the cable
> bolts to) and when you accelerate it squirts fuel down the choke of the carb,
> if this diaphram is damaged it can cause a hesitation when you put your foot
> down.
>
> Gaz
Well, the car was running fine and all of a sudden one day it starts
missing and won't idle. I checked things out and I found a whole bunch
of crud clogging up a brand new fuel filter, so evidently I got some
cruddy gas. Anyway, took out the carb and cleaned it up really good,
put a new gasket in just for the heck of it, everything else looked OK.
Put it back together and it fires right up, runs great just like
always. Never had an idle problem, it will idle down to 500 and then
some!
How exactly can I tell if the idle mix screw is set OK? I've had two 30
PICT-2 carbs and both stay running exactly the same no matter if you
screw it all the way in or open it up. I am pretty sure the main jet is
OK as the plugs are a nice light brown, not black or white.
As far as the accelerator pump, it is aimed right at the edge of the
butterfly and gives a good squirt when you open the throttle. I always
have had a bit of a hesitation problem after changing gears, some days
it goes away completely, and some days it's pretty annoying. I have the
timing set at 0 degrees (gives about 28 deg. total advance).
Could that little needle-plug thing on the right side have anything to
do with hesitation? How about the idle mixture screw? Thanks for the
help....
--
------------------------
David Fisher
Chico, CA
dave...@earthling.net
------------------------
Speedy Jim
<SNIPPAGE>
> As far as the accelerator pump, it is aimed right at the edge of the
> butterfly and gives a good squirt when you open the throttle. I always
> have had a bit of a hesitation problem after changing gears, some days
> it goes away completely, and some days it's pretty annoying. I have the
> timing set at 0 degrees (gives about 28 deg. total advance).
>
> Could that little needle-plug thing on the right side have anything to
> do with hesitation? How about the idle mixture screw? Thanks for the
> help....
One quick thought occurred to me about the hesitation. Even though the
accelerator pump appears to be discharging correctly, check to see
whether it *begins* discharging as soon as the throttle begins to open.
Often, on high mileage cars, the pump linkage gets so worn that there
is a lot of backlash. If so, sometimes you can alter the linkage a bit
to take out the play.
Don't recall if this was covered before, but lack of heat in the
manifold pre-heater tube can also cause hesitation.
Speedy Jim
auss...@hello.net.au
dave...@earthling.net wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the correct way to adjust the main needle on the
> Solex 30 PICT-2 (the large screw with the spring)?
> --
> ------------------------
> David Fisher
> Chico, CA
> ------------------------
Dave,
I have exactly the same set-up on my car (all original) - 30PICT/2 carby and
single vacuum distributor.
Here's the deal with the 30PICT/2 - a bit long, but it's all there:
SOLEX 30 PICT/2 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES
This procedure should also work for the 30PICT/1 and 28 series carburettors
having a single adjusting screw on the side of the carburettor.
Before we begin to adjust that carburetor, the valves, points, and timing
should be set. This is important, and they should be set in the order
shown, as we start with the engine cold, and finish with it warm. Set the
valves first - engine cold - at .004 inches (this is the factory setting for
pre 71 engines. Some folks find that this is too tight and use .006). 71 and
up engines use .006 inches. The aim of the tappet setting is to provide
virtually no gap when the engine is at operating temperature.
Now set the points at .016 inches. If they are pitted or damaged, or if the
rubbing block is badly worn, replace them. Put a small dab of grease on the
cam lobes whilst you are at it. Also pull off the rotor arm and have a look
at the spindle it sits on. If there is a felt pad in there (some have it,
some don't), put a few drops of oil (engine oil is fine) on the pad to help
lubricate the distributor. Don't overdo it - just a few drops.
Then set the timing. This is usually 10BTDC for 1200s, 7.5BTDC for
1300/1500/1600s using single vacuum distributors, 5ATDC (that's AFTER) for
double vacuum distributors, and between 5-8BTDC when using a 009 centrifugal
distributor. If you have a 009, set the max advance at 28-30 degrees with
the engine spinning at more than 3000rpm, and then check the idle advance.
The 009s vary a bit in total advance, and the maximum advance is more
important than idle advance, so you need to set it as described.
Now warm the engine up, take the aircleaner off the top of the carby (if it's
the oil filled kind be carefull, you don't need a shoe full of oil) and
check that the choke butterfly is standing vertical. If it isn't, run the
engine some more to make sure it's throughly warm, and check the choke
butterfly again. If it is not standing vertical, the butterfly needs
adjusting or fixing (another topic).
It's important to set the valves, points timing and check the choke before
setting the carburettor, they all work together for a smooth running engine.
ADJUSTING THE CARBURETTOR
There is a lever on the left side (left is left side of car) with a cable
connected to it. This is the THROTTLE LEVER. On the throttle lever is a
small screw which sticks out towards the back of the car. This is the IDLE
ADJUSTMENT SCREW. The idle adjustment screw rests on a strange-looking flat
piece of metal with steps cut in it. This is the FAST IDLE CAM, and works
with the choke to give a reliable idle on a cold engine. The engine must be
warm to set the carby, so that the choke is off, and the IDLE ADJUSTMENT
SCREW is sitting on the bottom of these steps.
Directly beneath the fast idle cam on the left side of the carburetor you
will see a screw with a spring wrapped around it. This is the VOLUME CONTROL
SCREW. On the side of the carburetor body is a barrel-shaped object, about
the size of a pen-light battery, with a wire connected to the outer end.
This is the IDLE FUEL CUTOFF VALVE (solenoid). This shuts of the fuel when
you turn off the engine, to prevent ‘running on'. Be sure the wire is
connected and runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (This usually runs off
the same wire which attaches to the choke.) Also make sure that this solenoid
is screwed into the carby snuggly, and not rattling loose. Don't overtighten
it though, it's got a fine brass thread and screws into aluminium - both
quite soft metals. You can test the operation of this solenoid very easily.
Turn on the ignition, and pull off the wire on the valve. Touch the wire on
the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside
moves. If not, check for 12 volts on the wire (small trouble light,
voltmeter etc), and replace the solenoid if required - if it's not working,
you won't get a proper idle, and you'll get rough running at traffic speeds
too.
As stated previously, make sure your engine is warm and the choke butterfly
standing upright. Make sure the air cleaner is ON when adjusting the
carburettor- the engine expects it to be there.
1) Turn the VOLUME CONTROL SCREW in all the way - GENTLY PLEASE. It is a
needle valve, and you don't want to enlarge the hole by forcing it home. Now
unscrew it 2.5 turns. This is the starting point for the adjustment.
2) Start the engine, and turn the IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW in or out to set the
idle at 850 RPM. I'll let you work out how to measure 850 rpm - but it's a
fast idle.
3) Then turn the VOLUME CONTROL SCREW in slowly until the engine speed begins
to drop, then turn it out until the engine runs at its highest idle speed.
It should still be within about ½ turn from the start setting of 2.5 turns.
If the hole has been damaged by a previous careless person, you'll just have
to do the best you can. Now screw it in until the revs ‘just' start to drop
- about 30rpm. This is the final setting.
4) Reset the idle speed again with the IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW. Don't slow the
idle too much, 800-850 is about right. VWs need a few revs at idle to keep
the cooling air flowing, otherwise when you coast to a stop at the lights
after cruising at a good speed, your hot engine won't get enough cooling air,
and it won't like you very much.
That's it - you're done. It should be purring like a kitten now.
--
Rob
Aussiebug(at)hello.net.au
1970 1500 beetle, one owner, 244,000 miles on it's original engine
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lee...@aol.com
If the problem is worse when the air temperature is colder, or it is more
humid, this could be what you are experiencing.
Lee Hoffer
> I always have had a bit of a hesitation problem after changing gears, some
> days it goes away completely, and some days it's pretty annoying.
> David Fisher
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