'95 R bites the dust...
pltrgyst
dust.
A few weeks ago, I had a very low speed collision. At the worst
intersection I know of, the Toyota SUV ahead of me pulled out, then
nailed the brakes. By that time, I was accelerating in first behind her,
watching the gap in traffic, and couldn't quite stop in time. It was a
very minimal impact -- no air bag deployment, and we weren't even jerked
forward noticeably. Maybe 5 mph. But the right front corner of the Miata
hit the Toyota's right rear bumper and slid a bit under.
The damage didn't look too bad -
http://www.xhost.org/images/miata/MiataCrunch1sm.jpg.
The car runs and drives fine, except for the front skirt rubbing against
the tire when the wheel is turned left. But apparently the impact
damaged the front right frame rail where it projects forward of the
wheel. They need to weld on a new frame rail extension, and straighten
everything up (the fender was knocked back about 1/4 inch, so the
passenger door won't open.)
So the estimate was $3088. Looking at the value of the car, its
extremely low miles, the fact that it's an R, and the fact that I love
driving it, I was going ahead with the repair on my own dime.
But today the shop called. They've determined that get enough room to
weld the extension properly, they need to pull the engine, which adds
another $2K onto the job. I really don't want to mess with all that.
Especially since I'd be tempted to have the entire car painted, which
would cost another $3K. That's just too much to put into it, so it's
going to go.
I'll probably sell the hardtop (with rear defroster) separately, since
that's a known value. And I'll sell the car for whatever I can get for
it -- probably put it on Miata.net and the local Craigslist. My question
is, what should I ask for it in its damaged state?
-1995 black Miata R package, one of 465 made that year; 1,800 made in
total over four years.
-Manual everything; has air conditioning. New Sony FM/CD, door and
headrest speakers.
-Borla exhaust, short shifter, Hard Core Hard Dog bar (fits under
hardtop and soft top), five-point belts (original retractible belts
still in place).
-40,000 original miles and a very strong engine, autocrossed a
handful of times, maybe a half-dozen Miata Club track days at Summitt
Point. Always the fastest Miata there, except for the highly prepared
racers.
-Always on Mobil 1 changed every 3k or six months.
-Soft top is shot; new soft top provided in box, ready to install.
-Wearing nice 15x7 alloys with good Dunlops, includes original 14x6
Miata R alloys with old Yokos.
-Two minor dings on the driver's side panel right behind the door
latch, where a motorcycle fell against the car. No paint damage.
All suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
-- Larry (Alexandria, VA)
Tim M.
> Well, it finally happened. My beloved 1995 R package has bitten the
> dust.
>
> A few weeks ago, I had a very low speed collision. At the worst
> intersection I know of, the Toyota SUV ahead of me pulled out, then
> nailed the brakes. By that time, I was accelerating in first behind her,
> watching the gap in traffic, and couldn't quite stop in time. It was a
> very minimal impact -- no air bag deployment, and we weren't even jerked
> forward noticeably. Maybe 5 mph. But the right front corner of the Miata
> hit the Toyota's right rear bumper and slid a bit under.
>
Larry, if you are inclined to do so, why not call my son Justin at
Undisputed Autosport in Sterling, Virginia? (see
undisputedautosport.com for contact info)
He is a local Spec Miata racer, an ASE certified mechanic with over
five years experience, and just opened his shop a couple of weeks
ago. He may be able to help you find an affordable way to repair
your car and keep it on the road, if that is still an option to you.
He can certainly perform all the mechanical repairs with the exception
of the frame welding and straightening.
I recently had my '97 Miata M edition body repaired locally here in
northern Virginia, you are welcome to look over the repair and paint
to see the quality of work they do, and see if you are interested
perhaps in having them do the frame/bodywork part of the job and
Justin doing the mechanical portion (if such an arrangement can even
be made; some shops want to do *all* the repairs themselves.)
Anyway, just a suggestion. Justin is something of a perfectionist
when it comes to his work, so if you feel the same way about your car,
there might be a match there, and since he is just starting out on his
own (he was a Ted Britt Ford technician for five years and worked as a
Ford Asset Program co-op student at Koons Sterling Ford for two years
before that) he is actively looking for work.
Regards, and hope for the best whichever way you decide to go,
Tim M.
UndisputedAutosport
Sorry to hear about your miata. I had a very similar accident in my
1990 but with a mini van, fortunately, resulting in very minimal
damage. My dad, Tim, told me about your car and just wanted to follow
up. A little background on myself, I started in the automotive field
in 2002, attending the Ford asset program. I spent my entire
professional career at local ford dealers and recently left to persue
my own shop. Along with 7 years of experience I hold neumerous ASE
certifications and achieved Fords Master certification in two of the
three fields.I just open my shop, Undisputed Autosport, a few weeks
ago. We are located in Sterling, Va off old ox road (rt 606). Im sure
I would be able to remove the engine and trans for far less than you
were quoted. Please give me a call at your earliest convienience, at
(703) 509-2584, so we can talk about the details.
Thanks
Justin Morrow
(703)509-2584
Jus...@undisputedAutosport.com
www.UndisputedAutosport.com