Re: Check Engine Light Came On
XS11E
news:1155658872.1...@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:
> Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told
> me to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what
> OBD 1 code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes.
Mike
code.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=147576&highlight=P1135
"Peter Chupity" <pjc+u...@jclabs.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1f4b9f9d6...@news.sonic.net...
> In article <1155658872.1...@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>,
> billsi...@verizon.net says...
>
>> Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told me
>> to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what OBD 1
>> code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes. At, I assume,
>> their minimum rate of 1/2 hr and 40 dollars.
>
> On my '98, the 1135 code means the front O2 sensor ~heater~ has gone
> open circuit. I had this happen, and replaced the sensor with a generic
> version (required splicing leads) as the dealer didn't feel this was
> covered under the emissions warranty. The generic was cheap enough and
> the install simple enough that it wasn't worth arguing.
>
> Post mortem on the sensor showed that the connection to the heater
> element had broken off at the braze. I think it's a manufacturing
> defect...
>
>> If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
>> something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
>> something else!)
>
> What kind of music???
Bill
> In article <1155658872.1...@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>,
> billsi...@verizon.net says...
>
> > Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told me
> > to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what OBD 1
> > code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes. At, I assume,
> > their minimum rate of 1/2 hr and 40 dollars.
>
> On my '98, the 1135 code means the front O2 sensor ~heater~ has gone
> open circuit. I had this happen, and replaced the sensor with a generic
> version (required splicing leads) as the dealer didn't feel this was
> covered under the emissions warranty. The generic was cheap enough and
> the install simple enough that it wasn't worth arguing.
>
> Post mortem on the sensor showed that the connection to the heater
> element had broken off at the braze. I think it's a manufacturing
> defect...
>
> > If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
> > something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
> > something else!)
>
> What kind of music???
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you Peter, Lanny, Mike, et alia. My only question now
is, I assume that a generic Walker brand sensor from OxygenSensors.com,
at 60 dollars, is a decent price for a generic part? I have a shade
tree guy who will put it in for 20 dollars. I know I'm probably going
to try it myself. All an observer would see would be me, ass in the
air over the engine compartment, and the sounds of small screws pinging
their way towards the ground- They never *hit* the ground, the Gods of
Bud the Weiser get more of a laugh watching somebody with one of those
magnetic pickup tools- then the louder bang of a 22mm wrench falling
and breaking something expen$ive and unreachable. Head halfway to the
ground by now, our noble repair-warrior with no feeling in his left
hand yells SOMEthing loud, and wife comes trotting out with another
cold malted beverage and leaves it on the run, and the battle resumes.
Numb noble warrier quits around midnight when he cannot find the
boxed part he was to install, and the 5 year old $4.99 trouble light
loses an electrical tape splice in the cord and sends 110V through
entire engine AND N.N. warrior. N.N.W. is so buzzed from 16 bottles of
Bud Ice he doesn't really know what happened, but he knows he didn't
like it, and that wife will find lost part next day.
We leave numb noble warrior swearing at Jay Leno on TV, and cursing
Bud of Weiser for only putting 18 bottles in 18 pack of malted beverage
and he retires, perhaps to dream of a better day.....
-Bill
(PM me with a wish list of bootlegs, most of what I have left is
Springsteen and Dire Straits/Knopfler, sons hijacked most originals...
I owe all of you....
Bill
Peter Chupity wrote:
>
> On my '98, the 1135 code means the front O2 sensor ~heater~ has gone
> open circuit. I had this happen, and replaced the sensor with a generic
> version (required splicing leads) as the dealer didn't feel this was
> covered under the emissions warranty. The generic was cheap enough and
> the install simple enough that it wasn't worth arguing.
>
>
> > If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
> > something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
> > something else!)
>
> What kind of music???
The shop didn't run the car yesterday as I asked, so cheapo
Mazca battery was dead as a...whatever. Damn thing never did hold a
charge, I wonder if the stupid Lojack is always on and draining????
Anyway, the code is clear, and has stayed clear for the 35
minute trip home, so perhaps all was bogus and all is well now....What
do people do for batteries on these besides Mazda brand?
As to music- Mark Knopfler is coming to Boothbay in Sept to do a
benefit, tix are obscenely priced, but leftovers will go on Ebay, and I
suspect there might be a bargain to be had there- $500 for concert and
after party with Mark will probably go for fifty bucks..Keep an eye on
Ebay in coming weeks.
Thanks again for all the help..
-Bill
BRUCE HASKIN
Yes your "stupid lojack" system is always on and so is your clock in the
radio, so some power is also going to the radio. (be sure to check your
radio for the "theft code" if it has one) Westco is one batt. that will
work. (some people have had results with other makes.)
Bruce Bing '03 LS
Bill
Thank you- do you mean that the Lojack is broadcasting all the
time? I bought the car with a brand-new-that-day Mazda brand battery,
and it never held a charge for more than a week during the winter, or
overnight in subzero weather. Hell of a way to run an airline! I was
wondering if the Lojack, like a cell phone, will communicate with a
cell every now and then like it or not. (Old analog phones, anyway.)
I say 'stupid' Lojack because it is worthless here in Maine, and
I cannot get anybody to buy it, take it out for free, or even tell me
how to disable it, JIC it is the trouble with the battery.
It sat at the repair shop for six days, and was dead as a
doornail- at least it reset the ECU, which makes the car idle too
slowly at first- just what you want with a dead battery.
Anyway, thanks for the help. I'm just gonna call up the local
indie foregn car place and take their advice on batteries, the cheapest
the best.
-Bill
BRUCE HASKIN
I think you will find that the system is always on line and only calls
if it is stolen. (but they still have power going to to them.) I had to
keep my '91 on a foat type charger if I was not going to drive it for a
week. (vacations and such)
Bruce Bing '03 LS
Bill
Are you in the rust belt? Problem still worse in the winter? I
guess I'll do what I had to do to a '79 Mustang, until it self-repaired
after a year- that is to loosen the negative cx to the battery so it
can just push on- pull off. I kept a wrench handy but never had to use
it, it was all sticky enough. Hmm.. this was before electronic radios
and ECU's. Guess I'll keep up with what I have, which is exactly what
you have.
Lemme guess- you keep the charger clipped to the battery and set on
2A charge, with an extension cord nearby, and just connect the two as
needed. Right? Have you talked to any other Lojack owners?? Isn't
there supposed to be a master shutoff acessable to the driver?? TYIA
-Bill
David P.
I kept having my battery run down after 6 or 7 days in the long-term parking
lot at the airport.
http://www.teammiata.com/prioritystart.htm
David P.
"Bill" <billsi...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1156121520.3...@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Chuck
dealer once told another 99 Miata owner that they were not going to do a
warrenty repair involving ignition failure, since the car had Champion
plugs. Turned out that Mazda used Champion plugs on some of the 99s instead
of the more common NGKs, and the Champions were even listed in the owners
manual. And yes, they were the OEM plugs installed when the car was built.
"Paul Proefrock" <paul@NO_SPAM_proefrock.net> wrote in message
news:mwaEg.10047$FN2....@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
> Patricia
> Go by your local Autozone and have them put a code reader on the OBD II
> connector and read out the code. With the code, you can then search the
> internet to give you an idea of what the problem is.
>
> May be as minor as a loose gas cap, could be a plugged EGR bypass port, or
> could be major problems.
>
> The code will give you an idea
>
> Paul P
>
> ps: Autozone will do this for No Charge
> <pcha...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1154870646.1...@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
> >I have a 1999 Mazda Miata. The check engine light came on and stays
> > on. It's been a year and 8 months since the oil was changed. Would
> > that cause the check engine light to come on?
> >
> > Patricia
> > Macon, GA
> >
> >
>
>
pcha...@gmail.com
XS11E
news:1154870646.1...@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
> I have a 1999 Mazda Miata. The check engine light came on and stays
> on. It's been a year and 8 months since the oil was changed. Would
> that cause the check engine light to come on?
Have you checked the oil level? If it's too low the check engine light
will come on but if the level is OK then the problem isn't the oil.
A year and 8 months is too long to go w/o an oil change.
pws
> Have you checked the oil level? If it's too low the check engine light
> will come on but if the level is OK then the problem isn't the oil.
>
> A year and 8 months is too long to go w/o an oil change.
Yes, conventional wisdom has always been 3,000 miles or 3 months,
whichever comes first.
Now there are endless arguments that you can go much longer, especially
when talking about synthetics. I think that Hyundai recommends 7,500
miles with dino oil.
Still, 6 months is the longest that I would consider between changes,
regardless of miles driven.
I watched my mechanic do an oil change on a Chevy van one time. He had
checked the oil and it was full but very dirty. When he took the drain
plug out, nothing happened.
He actually had to punch through a solidified piece of sludge that had
formed at the bottom of the oil pan to get the oil that was still fluid
dripping, and it dripped out thick and slow. The owner had never
replaced the oil in over 5 years, he just topped it off as it seeped
from bad seals.
Still, with a new filter and oil, the van drove away with no strange
sounds or smoke.
Pat
Chas Hurst
"XS11E" <xs1...@SPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9817432607A...@70.168.83.30...
There is no CEL for oil level or oil pressure. Apparently Auto-Zone will
read, for free, the stored code relvent to the CEL.
pcha...@gmail.com
Thanks for the responses. I have a feeling that once the oil and
filter are changed the check engine light will go off.
Patricia
pws
> Thanks for the responses. I have a feeling that once the oil and
> filter are changed the check engine light will go off.
>
> Patricia
Patricia,
I have been driving several miatas for about seven years now and have
had many check engine lights go on, both with my cars and with my
friend's vehicles.
In almost every single case, removing the gas cap and putting it back on
until it clicks at least 3 times turned the light off.
Have you tried this yet? I did have to replace one gas cap that had quit
holding pressure, but it was the same common problem causing the CEL to
show up.
Good luck!
Pat
XS11E
news:9srBg.53322$Cn6....@tornado.texas.rr.com:
To Patricia:
If the above fixes the check engine light you still need to change the
oil and filter.
pws
> If the above fixes the check engine light you still need to change the
> oil and filter.
Nonsense, your lowest grade dino oil is good for at least 10 years or
100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
As far as oil filters, I got tired of paying for those and deciding
which one to use, so I just plugged off the hole.
The lack of an oil filter makes those once a decade oil changes much faster.
At least I think it would, the engines seem to keep burning up long
before then, but I doubt if the problem is lubrication based.
Now quit trying to get people to waste an ever-decreasing and ever
more-costly resource. ;-)
Pat
XS11E
news:OgtBg.53345$Cn6...@tornado.texas.rr.com:
I'm sorry, should have thought of the environment! Once had a lady
come into the shop with a Dodge van, 318 V8 (5.2 liters for you
european types, 5.2 litres for you Brits) and wanted to know how often
she should change oil. She'd had the van for a couple of years, many
many thousands of miles and had NEVER changed it, I told her she was
due and suggested the conventional 3 months or 3,000 miles.
We changed it, when we pulled the drain plug a quart or so of thick
sludge came out. With new oil and filter it started, ran normal
compression, normal oil pressure and ran fine.
My girlfriend once had a 1973 Ford LTD that got an oil change only when
the oil light came on, same deal, it didn't seem to hurt it?
Engines take an amazing amount of abuse.
OTOH, a young girl brought in a Pontiac Grand AM (GMs attempt to build
something even cheaper and crappier than the Vega) with the oil light
flashing, she was coming from LA on her way to Colorado. We drained
about a cup of oil, refilled it and the engine disintegrated as she
reached Albuquerque. Of course she tried to sue us and GM for using a
defective oil filter....
So when I said engines take an amazing amount of abuse I didn't mean
GMs 2.4 liter 4 banger....
Lanny Chambers
pws <pwsh...@austin.rr.com> wrote:
> Nonsense, your lowest grade dino oil is good for at least 10 years or
> 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Absolutely. It's already 60 million years old; what's another 10? :-)
--
Lanny Chambers
'94C, St. Louis
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
W. Kiernan
My '99 does that when I don't turn the gas cap until it clicks. The
check engine light stays on for a few days after I tighten it. If your
gas cap was loose but you've tightened it now, and you really don't want
to look at that unnerving yellow light, and you don't mind getting your
hands a little dirty you can reset your "MIL" (malfunction indicator
light) right away. Get in the trunk and disconnect one of the battery
cables. Next press on the brake pedal for about thirty seconds.
Reconnect the battery cable and you're good to go. WARNING! This
deletes all your preset stations on your radio and resets the clock to
1:00. If you have the anti-theft code enabled on your radio you will
have to reset that as well; there are instructions for doing this at
www.miata.net. Or you can just wait a couple days and see if it goes
out on its own.
And hey, get that oil changed! If you can afford another $40, get your
spark plug wires replaced - go to a Mazda dealership and insist on the
blue NGK plug wires. Miata plug wires are shot after 30-40K miles, and
if it's been that long since they were changed you'll notice the
difference immediately. Your car will be much, much happier, and happy
cars make happy drivers. My wife and son and I drove up to North
Georgia in her xB last month; boy oh boy have they ever got some roads
up in those hills that look like they were custom-made for driving a
Miata. Funny though; the whole time I was in N. Ga. I saw not one
Miata, only SUVs and pickup trucks.
Yours WDK - WKie...@ij.net
Bill
On a similar note.... I *really* screwed up, now I'm right in
the middle. I had the fuel-cap CEL thing on my '99 about two years
ago, pulled main fuse long enough to reset ECU, but not lose radio
presets, and light went out until a month or so ago. I did the
'backyard reset' a couple of times to no avail. Finally took it to a
local indie shop where a good friend, and _great_ mechanic, works.
They either reflashed ECU or pulled power- I got conflicting stories-
but all was fixed. Until I got four miles down the road, and whoopie!
here's the CEL. I took it back in less than good humor, only to find
that it was my friend's last day there, he was going lobstering.
All I found for sure was that the code it threw was a PO 7135
(or 1135? couldn' read his writing) which, I was told, was a general,
generic, "Your engine has a problem." And now I'm wishing I'd driven
the car a little further, and gotten a new gas cap although I think
that I would have lost the 31 dollars they charged me in that case.
(I.E. not applied to re-do after I take car, fiddle, and bring it
back. Only fair, I guess.)
Any ideas/thoughts would be welcomed. I have extra keys, I
suppose I could pick it up Sat afternoon or Sun and work on it. And
this is the week I'd planned to sell it!
TYIA to all for reading/thinking about this.
M. Cantera
I only redo the gas cap if I get an of the following codes:
P0455 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(Gross Leak)"
P0456 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(Very Small Leak)"
P0457 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(Fuel Cap Loose/Off)"
The codes you list may are not standard and are not generic. Standard
codes only go to p0850 or so for ODB 2 systems.
Call your Mazda dealer and ask (they are in the phone book)
On 11 Aug 2006 20:07:37 -0700, "Bill" <billsi...@verizon.net>
wrote:
Carbon
> I watched my mechanic do an oil change on a Chevy van one time. He had
> checked the oil and it was full but very dirty. When he took the drain
> plug out, nothing happened.
> He actually had to punch through a solidified piece of sludge that had
> formed at the bottom of the oil pan to get the oil that was still fluid
> dripping, and it dripped out thick and slow. The owner had never
> replaced the oil in over 5 years, he just topped it off as it seeped
> from bad seals.
> Still, with a new filter and oil, the van drove away with no strange
> sounds or smoke.
I had a girlfriend with an old 327 Impala that leaked oil. She understood
that gas made the car go but the role of oil seemed more mysterious. So
naturally she ran it dry and it threw a rod. That's when I realized there
were people who were so ignorant about basic mechanics that if you told
them their engines ran on little gerbils they'd probably believe you.
XS11E
news:pan.2006.08.14...@nospam.verizon.net:
> That's when I realized there were people who were so ignorant
> about basic mechanics that if you told them their engines ran on
> little gerbils they'd probably believe you.
I think everybody knows it's little hamsters....
miker
> that gas made the car go but the role of oil seemed more mysterious. So
> naturally she ran it dry and it threw a rod. That's when I realized there
> were people who were so ignorant about basic mechanics that if you told
> them their engines ran on little gerbils they'd probably believe you.
I had a girlfriend who one nice summer day flooded her car, and so plugged
the tank heater in because that's what you do when it won't start.
Actually overheard last week at Fleet Farm: "Honey, you can't put WD40 in a
grease fitting, they don't work like that."
miker
Bill
M. Cantera wrote:
> If it is
>
> I only redo the gas cap if I get an of the following codes:
>
> P0455 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Gross Leak)"
> P0456 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Very Small Leak)"
> P0457 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Fuel Cap Loose/Off)"
>
> The codes you list may are not standard and are not generic. Standard
> codes only go to p0850 or so for ODB 2 systems.
>
> Call your Mazda dealer and ask (they are in the phone book)
>
> On 11 Aug 2006 20:07:37 -0700, "Bill" <billsi...@verizon.net>
> wrote:
> >the middle. I had the fuel-cap CEL thing on my '99 about two years
> >ago, pulled main fuse long enough to reset ECU, but not lose radio
> >presets, and light went out until a month or so ago. I did the
> >'backyard reset' a couple of times to no avail. Finally took it to a
> >local indie shop where a good friend, and _great_ mechanic, works.
> >They either reflashed ECU or pulled power- I got conflicting stories-
> >but all was fixed. Until I got four miles down the road, and whoopie!
> >here's the CEL. I took it back in less than good humor, only to find
> >that it was my friend's last day there, he was going lobstering.
> > All I found for sure was that the code it threw was a PO 7135
> >(or 1135? couldn' read his writing) which, I was told, was a general,
> >generic, "Your engine has a problem." And now I'm wishing I'd driven
> >the car a little further, and gotten a new gas cap although I think
> >that I would have lost the 31 dollars they charged me in that case.
> > (I.E. not applied to re-do after I take car, fiddle, and bring it
> >back. Only fair, I guess.)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you for the useable, "ask the mechanic *this*" type help,
I'll be calling tomorrow. I'll let everybody know what happens, as
this looks to be a widespread problem with no one solution...
-Bill
Paul Proefrock
Go by your local Autozone and have them put a code reader on the OBD II
connector and read out the code. With the code, you can then search the
internet to give you an idea of what the problem is.
May be as minor as a loose gas cap, could be a plugged EGR bypass port, or
could be major problems.
The code will give you an idea
Paul P
ps: Autozone will do this for No Charge
<pcha...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154870646.1...@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
Bill
> If it is
>
> I only redo the gas cap if I get an of the following codes:
>
> P0455 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Gross Leak)"
> P0456 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Very Small Leak)"
> P0457 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
> (Fuel Cap Loose/Off)"
>
> The codes you list may are not standard and are not generic. Standard
> codes only go to p0850 or so for ODB 2 systems.
>
> Call your Mazda dealer and ask (they are in the phone book)
Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told me
to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what OBD 1
code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes. At, I assume,
their minimum rate of 1/2 hr and 40 dollars.
If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
something else!)
TYIA
-Bill
(Oh yeah, if anybody knows how much they are charging for the cruise
control transister TSB they have out, I'd love to hear it. Hmm, wonder
if that code is related?)
Anyway, seems like it should be a recall, with the cruise control
basically accelerating the car on its own. Sounds pretty dangerous.
If it was my Rex Sty, you'd change radio stations, look back up, and be
going 125mph fer chrissakes...Anyway, thanks again to anybody who can
help me.
Peter Chupity
billsi...@verizon.net says...
> Thank you again, but my local Mazda dealer courteously told me
> to fork off, I'd have to come in with the car to tell me what OBD 1
> code # 7135 (or 1135- writing was terrible) denotes. At, I assume,
> their minimum rate of 1/2 hr and 40 dollars.
On my '98, the 1135 code means the front O2 sensor ~heater~ has gone
open circuit. I had this happen, and replaced the sensor with a generic
version (required splicing leads) as the dealer didn't feel this was
covered under the emissions warranty. The generic was cheap enough and
the install simple enough that it wasn't worth arguing.
Post mortem on the sensor showed that the connection to the heater
element had broken off at the braze. I think it's a manufacturing
defect...
> If anybody can tell me what those codes are, I'll send you
> something really nice if you like music. (If you don't, I'll think of
> something else!)
What kind of music???
posh...@gmail.com
Many oil companies are trying to sell water down feels after all the massive spills they had oversee and trying to recover all their lost millions worth.