I'm much happier, because although I know that these are merely
"readings" that don't necessarily reflect actual pressure in the
engine, I like to monitor the values and note trends, and am therefore
glad to have my original baseline numbers back on the gauge.
Odd, was the new cluster a direct replacement or did it come from a different model/year? That has me wondering if there are any
setting jumpers or calibrations for that cluster.
--
DougW
"DougW" <I.only.re...@invalid.address> wrote in message
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Earle
"L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" <BillH...@billhughes.com> wrote in message
news:h_6Ym.18146$DC2....@newsfe02.iad...
If there are any jumpers or ways to adjust, I couldn't find them. The
cluster was a direct replacement from the same model and year.
> If there are any jumpers or ways to adjust, I couldn't find them. The
> cluster was a direct replacement from the same model and year.
Does the dash run off a computer feed? If so there might be a calibration
dance you have to do with a scantool. Some vehicle do this on startup but
others require fine tuning.
--
DougW
Most OEM cluster gauges are crap. If you need the actual numbers, put
real sensors and gauges in and you will have "some" peace of mind.
Then that $15 themostat will go bad and then bite you hard in the
rear.
Last summer,I was driving my family out to seafood and had my 4.0L
overheat and blow all the hosen including the overflow reservior. The
in-dash temp gauge did not budge. Had my OBD2 scantool with me.
Plugged it in and saw the ECU see a engine temp of 230. It wasn't my
JEEP. It was my Land Rover Discovery.
Ouch. lesson 1: never trust the gauges in the dash. lesson 2: always
carry your scantool, even after the meltdown.
Adam
> Most OEM cluster gauges are crap. If you need the actual numbers, put
> real sensors and gauges in and you will have "some" peace of mind.
> Then that $15 themostat will go bad and then bite you hard in the
> rear.
Yea, I've got AutoMeter gauges watching several things the "normal"
gauges don't. O2 sensor, Vac/Boost, Fuel Pressure. Might add oil
pressure, but so far the only problem I've had with the ZJ is that
stupid oil pressure sender failing. It would be nice to have an
ODB III or even II for my ZJ, but alas it's too old for that.
Amazing the amount of computers and doodads that replaced a simple
gauge and some wire.
--
DougW
This model year was approaching the point where something like that
might have been implemented. However, I could see nothing directly
behind the instrument cluster that would suggest that the gauges were
computer-driven, other than the cannon plugs for the circuit boards--
but I know that these could be regulated by computer inputs from
elsewhere.
The argument against this is that the gauge cluster indications
immediately returned to normal when I reinstalled the original
instrument cluster. Then again, if that cluster had been "programmed"
for the correct readings...
I agree with you that those new temp scan tools are a great
development.
This overheating and hose-bursting happened to me two Grand Wagoneers
back. On the Interstate, of course. But the noteable point was that
the water temp gauge only began to rise at the point where the hose
was ready to blow. That was on the old-style (1984) gauges, but I
doubt the new ones would give you any more warning.
I'm not so concerned about having pinpoint accuracy of pressures and
temperatures, but only that I can see that the engine is operating at
values I know to be "normal" for that engine. I.e., I like to see
around 45 psi on the oil pressure at cruise, and somewhere north of 13
psi at hot idle. My substitute gauge cluster was showing near zero at
idle, and this worried me every time I looked at it, so I am glad to
have the old portrayal back.
This model year was approaching the point where something like that