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2001 Grand Cherokee

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Larry

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Apr 10, 2012, 8:47:47 PM4/10/12
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Need some advice about my 2001 Grand Cherokee limited with 83,000
miles on it.

I purchased it new, it was demo and took very good care of it changing
oil ever 3000 miles. Also kept up the maintenance according to the
manual.

The place (not the dealer!) where I get the fluids changed recommended
that I consider changing to synthetic oil . I was told there is a
special oil for engines over 75,000 miles.

Anyone have any advice/experience about using or changing to synthetic
oil?

I am also wondering about how long the 4.7l engine is generally good
for. In the past in this group I have heard that GCs tend to start
needing expensive work soon after 100,000 miles.

Any experiences with long engine life?

Thanks in advance.

Larry



Budd Cochran

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Apr 10, 2012, 11:56:57 PM4/10/12
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"Larry" <alexandrin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d710d428-9c84-40a6...@w5g2000vbv.googlegroups.com...
Most of the "special" oils for high mileage engines are aimed at non-roller
lifter engines (solid lifter or old style hydraulic lifters) and contain
zinc additives to lube the cam and lifter contact points ... actually,
they're just old timey oils with a higher pice tag.

I don't know much on the 4.7, but if it's a roller lifter engine there's no
need for the zinc additive.

As for longevity, keep it tuned, lubed, cleaned and don't abuse it and it'll
last longer ... simple as that.

Budd


Larry

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Apr 12, 2012, 9:02:00 PM4/12/12
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On Apr 10, 9:56 pm, "Budd Cochran" <mr_d...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> "Larry" <alexandrinelibrar...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Thanks for that advice...

I googled Jeep GC reliability and came across what appears to be two
persistent problems....front rotors and something about blend door
failure that plague the limited. The front rotor problem I
experienced just after the warranty expired. Not sure but I might be
dealing with that issue again.

But the blend door issue, having to do with the heating system vents,
was new to me.

Other than those two things, I really could not find any other major
problems. Several individuals mentioned getting high mileage, in the
150,000+ range without major problems.

So your advice about keeping up with maintenance is on target.

Larry

Budd Cochran

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Apr 14, 2012, 12:37:45 AM4/14/12
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"Larry" <alexandrin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:02a42df0-a8c1-48f5...@f5g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
I have a bit of experience with high mileage engines as I was a forklift
mechanic for 10 years (oldest truck with original engine was 45 years old at
the time and was operated at least 80 hrs /week) and I've had five vehicles
go over 200,000 miles: a '65 Plymouth 225 Slant Six (400K) a '79 Dodge 318
(325K) and two XJ's (88-89) with over 330K each when I got them. plus I work
on small engines.

I do my own work, naturally, so I speak from hands on experience.

Glad to help.

Budd


Larry

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Apr 14, 2012, 10:57:41 AM4/14/12
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I remember that slant six, that engine was both reliable and
economical. Are they still building them?

Old Crow

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Apr 14, 2012, 8:16:32 PM4/14/12
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"Larry" wrote in message
news:4ae40186-e2ee-4a2c...@h12g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ha! What do you think? They were reliable and economical.
Damn near bullet-proof, too.
--
Old Crow
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT
'82 FLTC 92", '87 FLTC

Larry

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Apr 14, 2012, 10:15:46 PM4/14/12
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Good point! That slant six would have been great in a jeep.

I am thinking about my former 91 toyota camry with a 2.0l engine that
actually got 40 mpg on the highway.

They know how to build gas saving vehicles using the old technology,
but they don't. Instead they throw all that new technology at the
problem making the auto more expensive, more complicated, more prone
to failure, very expensive to repair and, in the case of hybrids with
new battery technology, even dangerous

One reason I am reluctant to buy a new car.

Larry

Lon

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Apr 15, 2012, 4:35:00 PM4/15/12
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Front rotors on some models sensitive to ham fisted poor torqueing of
wheel nuts. Can be avoided by using a torque wrench.


>
> But the blend door issue, having to do with the heating system vents,
> was new to me.

The auto temp control system can be a real pain, and if it ever truly
goes bad and you cannot fix it yourself, quite expensive.

Best investment is the Factory Service Manual, which you can buy online
at jeep under the for owners link.

There are special high mileage oils, but 75-80 isn't that high.

Pure synth, or synth blend is pretty much a personal taste unless the
owners manual calls out synth due to engine design.


Old Crow

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Apr 15, 2012, 5:52:00 PM4/15/12
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"Larry" wrote in message
news:6b1902f5-a4b3-48ba...@k6g2000vbz.googlegroups.com...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Also one of the reasons I quit working at the dealerships and bought a hot
rod and restoration shop way back in the hills.
When I started out at the dealer I was what they called a "heavy line" guy.
That meant I did engines, head gaskets, intakes, water pump, etc. 23 years
later when I gave it up, I was spending most of my day chasing squeaks and
rattles and trying to be an electrical engineer.
Sure is more satisfying to bring a rusty old hulk back to life.

Larry

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Apr 15, 2012, 7:03:56 PM4/15/12
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I appreciate that reference to the Factory Service Manual. I think I
will be keeping the GC rather than trade and the manual sounds like a
good investment! If the blend door problem shows up, I will just deal
with it.

Still thinking about the move to synthetic oil.

Thanks for the advice!

Larry



Larry

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Apr 15, 2012, 7:17:21 PM4/15/12
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I don't know if you take the Orvis catalog (men's clothing, etc), but
around Christmas every year, they come out with a totally restored
Jeep Grand Wagoneer priced, I think, around $30,000. Not sure about
the model year, but that would be in the 63-91 time period when the
Wagoneers were built. Supposedly a complete restoration from the frame
up with the engine rebuilt and tuned.

They also offer a completely restored older landy that for the first
time they wanted $65,000 for. Now they put one up every year for
auction in their catalog. Both in the Orvis catalog around Christmas
time.

So sounds like to me restoration of older classic vehicles could be
make for a good living.

Larry

Old Crow

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Apr 16, 2012, 5:19:42 AM4/16/12
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"Larry" wrote in message
news:741e4dd4-53e7-4421...@c4g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...


I don't know if you take the Orvis catalog (men's clothing, etc), but
around Christmas every year, they come out with a totally restored
Jeep Grand Wagoneer priced, I think, around $30,000. Not sure about
the model year, but that would be in the 63-91 time period when the
Wagoneers were built. Supposedly a complete restoration from the frame
up with the engine rebuilt and tuned.

They also offer a completely restored older landy that for the first
time they wanted $65,000 for. Now they put one up every year for
auction in their catalog. Both in the Orvis catalog around Christmas
time.

So sounds like to me restoration of older classic vehicles could be
make for a good living.

^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you've ever watched Barrett-Jackson's auctions on Speed Channel, you've
heard the phrase,"Sold for less than the cost of restoration".
They're usually talking about some car that just sold for $30 or $40k. I've
got a doctor who put over $110k in a '69 Mustang convertible. There was a
$100k Camaro in last week. We didn't build that one, but were just doing
some mechanical stuff to it. I can do a '57 Bel-Aire for under $50k if it's
not too rusty
Heck, we even re-did a '29 International flatbed truck. That one cost about
$30k.
I'll do okay.

Lon

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Apr 19, 2012, 8:20:37 PM4/19/12
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On 4/15/2012 17:03, Larry wrote:

> I appreciate that reference to the Factory Service Manual. I think I
> will be keeping the GC rather than trade and the manual sounds like a
> good investment! If the blend door problem shows up, I will just deal
> with it.
>
> Still thinking about the move to synthetic oil.
>
> Thanks for the advice!
>
> Larry
>


One of the greatest advantages of the Factory Manual is that every now
and then it can help keep you from getting in over your head... and
taking it to a pro with the right tools.

For typical troubleshooting, it is great, particularly if you can read
the wiring diagrams as not that many mechanics are electrical literate
yet.

As for the synth, you could change over at pretty much any mileage. I
changed at about 120K with no folkloric leaks, etc. Then went back to
blend. Don't see any difference in oil use, gas mileage, etc. but tend
to change reasonably often.

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