1978 CJ-5 Manual Steering Box Adjustment
Jo Baggs
borgeson steering shaft for him and that helped, but it didn't eliminate
slop. There's still a good 2" of play at the steering wheel before the
wheels move. Tie Rods, Ball joints, etc are all good. So I tried the
steering box adjustment screw. When I adjusted the screw, it was almost
loose enough to turn by hand. So I turned it down till it fell like it was
starting to feel snug. I did not torque it down.
So here's my question. Is that screw supposed to turn that easy? If so I'm
concerned I may have turned it too tight. On the other hand, it may have
been too loose to begin with. Any thoughts on how hard that screw should be
to turn?
Bob Noble
not be torqued down.
It basically pushes the gear further into the worm drive which can take some
of the play out.
It you tighten it too tight, it will bind up the gears.
--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"Jo Baggs" <J...@says.shaddup> wrote in message
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Old Crow
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Should loosen the lock nut, tighten the screw until you start to feel
resistance, then tighten the lock nut. If that doesn't take enough of the
play out, it's time for a new box.
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 'Mistress Pearl'
'87 FLTC 'Fugly'
'61 F-100
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM
Jo Baggs
"Jo Baggs" <J...@says.shaddup> wrote in message
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difference. As you recall, I screwed down the adjuster screw until it
finally met the slightest resistance. So am I safe screwing it down
further? The allen screw is getting close to being flush with the lock nut.
I'm not sure how far I can screw this thing down. Thoughts.
Bob Noble
back it off a bit.
The only way to know how tight to get it is to tighten it until the box
starts to bind, then you will know.
If the allen screw goes all the way in, which I doubt, you need new stuff in
the box and that is the only thing that will fix it.
If you adjust the screw all the way and it binds and the box is still
sloppy, you will need new stuff in the box or a new box.
--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"Jo Baggs" <J...@says.shaddup> wrote in message
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Mike Romain
Well.. The Ssaginaw power box on the later CJ's adjusts at the end the
column goes in for side to side slop. Don't know if that is applicable.
The screw and nut up top are the bearing preload setting... they just
control the stiffness of the turning basically.
You loosen that big 3" or so locking ring and tighten the adjuster plug
under it until it snugs up, then back it off about 1/4" of travel.
There is a tool like a grinder wheel tool with two pins to adjust it,
but a punch and hammer work.
Mike
2000 Cherokee Sport
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Jo Baggs
"Mike Romain" <rom...@nospam.eastlink.ca> wrote in message
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Mike,
any pictures or diagrams?
Mike Romain
I mention, I don't know if th eold one was a saginaw box. It is for a
TJ box, but the CJ used the same one. The only difference is the
adjuster plug, in the CJ box it is a better one piece one, the TJ one is
two piece and fails easier.
Mike
Jo Baggs
Mike,
the PDF would be great if you can post. If not, I still have
the Jee...@northbridgesucks.com email up. (until trolls flood it)
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III
Go ahead and suggest a new box.You screwed right through the high center
of the messing teeth without feeling that point:
http://www.billhughes.com/temp/72ManualstreeingBox.pdf
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:BillH...@billhughes.com
http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm
"Jo Baggs" <J...@says.shaddup> wrote in message
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Mike Romain
think. Your PDF is better than mine for this application, think you can
get the adjustment page in there?
Thanks,
Mike
2000 Cherokee Sport
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
RoyJ
will cause it to get really stiff at full lock each way. Don't push it
too far.
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III
"Mike Romain" <rom...@nospam.eastlink.ca> wrote in message
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Mike Romain
Mike
Jo Baggs
Ok, so I'm clear. The adjustment screw is only used to adjust the stiffness
of the steering. It is not used to take out the slop in steering. correct?
Mike Romain
The adjuster plug on the column end sets the slop.
Mike
Will Honea
> Well.. The Ssaginaw power box on the later CJ's adjusts at the end the
> column goes in for side to side slop. Don't know if that is applicable.
> The screw and nut up top are the bearing preload setting... they just
> control the stiffness of the turning basically.
>
> You loosen that big 3" or so locking ring and tighten the adjuster plug
> under it until it snugs up, then back it off about 1/4" of travel.
> There is a tool like a grinder wheel tool with two pins to adjust it,
> but a punch and hammer work.
Hi, Mike - good to see your name in the group again. Since you are talking
about power? steering boxes, maybe you could give ma a couple of ideas.
Ever since I got this 88 MJ (yeah, it's still going <g>) I've had an
intermittent problem with a couple of rough spots. The symptoms are a
noticeable catch about a quarter turn on either side of neutral. It only
takes a little extra pressure to get past the spot and then all is normal.
This comes and goes - this time it's back after being gone a year or so. I
would guess a worn spot in ball channels but when it's gone, it's gone -
smooth as can be. The catch feels about like the old problem GM had with
worn shuttle valves in their rack-and-pinion power steering but further off
neutral and it doesn't change as it warms up.
Any ideas? I'm about to pull the steering box to do the seals anyway, so I'd
like to fix this while I'm in there. I know, those seals can be changed
without pulling the steering box but it's so much easier on the bench!
--
Will Honea
Mike Romain
catching almost sounds like the preload is off.
I have heard of and seen catches like that from a bad axle end u-joint
also.
Mike
Will Honea
> Would you like the PDF for rebuilding the saginaw power box? Your
> catching almost sounds like the preload is off.
>
> I have heard of and seen catches like that from a bad axle end u-joint
> also.
>
The PDF would be good - is that one of the links in the earlier messages in
this thread? If not, my email will handle the file.
Good thought on the U-joint. After 22 years and 200k miles nothing would
surprise me. I'll have to check on those before it gets too cold out.
--
Will Honea