--
Rules of Texas:
RULE 10:
Don't try to talk with a Southern accent if you don't have one or use
regional idioms you can't possibly understand. Nothing makes us madder.
Whut wus rool nummer teyun all bout anyhow?
Back to my professional voice now, not the one I was born with ;^)
If it's still stock height, I have had good luck with the OEM units, but
whatever you do, get rid of the strap style Ujoint yokes and put some ubolt
style ones on. That is usually the weakest point of the stock driveshafts
from later years. My rear driveshaft is so short and at such a steep angle
that I had to have a CV style made by Tom to keep the back wheels turning.
The OEM was fine until the T18a and 4" lift.
The most important part of a good driveshaft in my humble opinion is to use
top quality Ujoints. The only ones I have found to hold up long term are
genuine Spicer or Neapco. There may be other good brands out there, but
these two appear to have hardened cross shafts and caps, and hold up many
times longer. The chain parts store's house brands just don't seem to cut
it.
Hope this helps,
--
Ed Westerbeck - Dallas, TX
78 CJ5, V8, T18a, Front and Rear Lockers, Swampers, 4.56's
"Jeepers!" <moo...@fnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:B5B72BD8.5C25D%moo...@fnbnet.net...
Talk to ya later, Greg
http://community.webtv.net/Jeep-CJ5/Jeepn
1964 CJ-5 / Buick 231 / sm420 (GM)
Dana18 / Warn overdrive
Dana 27 / 44 Powr-loks
33x14x15 Boggers
crawl ratio = 73.88:1
> You don`t need to upgrade your driveshafts. Just make sure they are the
> right length.
>
> Talk to ya later, Greg
>
What? No CV joint advice?
--
Gun Control: Use both hands.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL KC6TAY
The Zen Hotdog... make me one with everything!
Geezer Jeep: http://www.jjournal.net/jeep/gallery/JBransfordsTJ/
No, no no no, like this.. Whatchu think 'bout gettin sum of them thar
fancy-ma-jig CEEVEE joints? Ma bad CEEJAY has gots a four and haf eench
lift unner it. Do ya think that there Woods feller kin hep me out wid some
of dem U-bolted type driveshafts?
Famous redneck last words: "Hey, yall! Watch this!"
> Do ya have yosef uh lift on dat dair CJ? Iffn so, ya may orta look to ol' Tom
> Woods ta build sum fer ya. Does a raght fine job.
>
> Whut wus rool nummer teyun all bout anyhow?
>
> Back to my professional voice now, not the one I was born with ;^)
>
> If it's still stock height, I have had good luck with the OEM units, but
> whatever you do, get rid of the strap style Ujoint yokes and put some ubolt
> style ones on. That is usually the weakest point of the stock driveshafts
> from later years. My rear driveshaft is so short and at such a steep angle
> that I had to have a CV style made by Tom to keep the back wheels turning. The
> OEM was fine until the T18a and 4" lift.
>
> The most important part of a good driveshaft in my humble opinion is to use
> top quality Ujoints. The only ones I have found to hold up long term are
> genuine Spicer or Neapco. There may be other good brands out there, but these
> two appear to have hardened cross shafts and caps, and hold up many times
> longer. The chain parts store's house brands just don't seem to cut it.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
>> My CJ7 rebuild is at the point where I need to start thinking about the
>> driveshaft upgrades. 258 T176 model 300 to 20 & 30 axles w/lockers. What
>> do I need in the way of upgraded driveshafts?
>>
>>
>> -- Rules of Texas: RULE 10: Don't try to talk with a Southern accent if you
>> don't have one or use regional idioms you can't possibly understand. Nothing
>> makes us madder.
--
It's hard to make a comeback when you haven't been anywhere.
---Written in the dust on the back of a bus, Wickenburg, Arizona.
Jerry Bransford wrote:
> and a double-Cardin joint? I can't find any difference myself but the
> terms aren't always used interchangably in some publications.
I thought they were the same animal?
Later,
Steve
--
It's a Jeep Thing...
http://www.overland.net/~moose
Jerry
--
So whats the advantage of a CV, if any?
--
No wonder you always go home alone.
---Sign over mirror in Men's restroom, Ed Debevic's, Beverly
Hills,CA
As for driveshafts, I had a Grand Wagoneer front CV driveshaft
cut down for a customer, and installed it in the rear of his
lifted CJ-7. He had vibrations when he came in with the spring
lift and angled shims installed that came with it, and the
original driveshaft. We got rid of the shims, angled the pinion
in line with the new CV driveshaft, and no more vibrations. The
driveshaft has pretty thick tubing, so it should be pretty
strong. Cost: $35 for shortening the shaft. We had to use an
early-80's downsized Cherokee front driveshaft transfer case
yoke to mate the Wagoneer CV joint to the Dana 300. Bolted right
on and everything worked slick.
Jim
Jeep Wrangler YJ
Volvo 6 cyl. turbo diesel, T-19, twin stick Dana 20 w/Spicer 18 gears,
full width Dana 60/44 axles, spring over, full cage.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Got questions? Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
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Dave
In article <3992DD48...@home.com>,
jer...@home.com wrote:
> That's what I'm thinking too Steve, I'm just wondering if there might
be
> some subtle difference.
>
> Jerry
>
> moose wrote:
> >
> > Hey Jerry,
> >
> > Jerry Bransford wrote:
> >
> > > and a double-Cardin joint? I can't find any difference myself
but the
> > > terms aren't always used interchangably in some publications.
> >
> > I thought they were the same animal?
> >
> > Later,
> > Steve
> >
> > --
> > It's a Jeep Thing...
> > http://www.overland.net/~moose
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL KC6TAY
> The Zen Hotdog... make me one with everything!
> Geezer Jeep: http://www.jjournal.net/jeep/gallery/JBransfordsTJ/
>
--
'79 CJ-7, 4" RE, 33x12.5 BFG/MT, Warn XD9000i Winch
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
> With the CV, you can rotate the rear axle pinion up toward the
> transfer case to help get a better driveshaft angle without
> vibrations. With regular U-joints, the rear pinion has to be
> parallel to the t-case output, or else you will get vibes. With
> the CV, the pinion should be in line with the driveshaft. (I try
> to set the angle down about 1 or 2 degrees, planning on it
> becoming straight when there is power to the axle. Small point,
> but its worth a try.)
>
> As for driveshafts, I had a Grand Wagoneer front CV driveshaft
> cut down for a customer, and installed it in the rear of his
> lifted CJ-7. He had vibrations when he came in with the spring
> lift and angled shims installed that came with it, and the
> original driveshaft. We got rid of the shims, angled the pinion
> in line with the new CV driveshaft, and no more vibrations. The
> driveshaft has pretty thick tubing, so it should be pretty
> strong. Cost: $35 for shortening the shaft. We had to use an
> early-80's downsized Cherokee front driveshaft transfer case
> yoke to mate the Wagoneer CV joint to the Dana 300. Bolted right
> on and everything worked slick.
>
> Jim
>
Sounds like good information. So, do you think a CV is a necessary upgrade
on a CJ w/ a 4.5" lift?
Jerry
Doug
"Jerry Bransford" <jer...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3992D8DC...@home.com...
> Speaking of CV joint advice... is there any real difference between a CV
> and a double-Cardin joint? I can't find any difference myself but the
> terms aren't always used interchangably in some publications.
>
> Jerry
>
> "Jeepers!" wrote:
> >
> > On or about 8/10/00 11:02 AM, Greg Bamford hit keys that wrote:
> >
> > > You don`t need to upgrade your driveshafts. Just make sure they are
the
> > > right length.
> > >
> > > Talk to ya later, Greg
> > >
> > What? No CV joint advice?
> >
> > --
> > Gun Control: Use both hands.
>
> If i remember correctly, the Jeep i put the CV driveshaft on had a 4 or 4 1/2"
> lift. I'd say that for the cost, using a GW driveshaft would be a good
> upgrade. Even if you bought a used driveshaft and put in new U-joints, you
> should come out of it for under, or near, $100. It should help the U-joints
> last longer also, since they are at less of an angle. Depending on the lift
> and transmission you are running, you might even get away with using the
> driveshaft at stock length. We only had to take out about 2".
>
> Jim
What if I'm lazy and want to walk into my local driveshaft shop. What do i
tell them to make me? IOW what diamater? Also how do I determine length?
1983 CJ-7
Proposed Fuel Injection on rebuilt 258
T-176 4-speed
dana 300 T.C.
Superlift 4" lift
Model 30 Axle front new Warn hubs and soft locker
Model 20 Axle rear new Warn manual hubs, float kit, disc brake kit, detroit
locker
Right now the vehicle is a painted frame with the painted lift and painted
axles bolted on, sitting on jack stands in my shop. I have not decided on
the transmission yet (NV4500) $$$ But at this point it's time to plan the
rest of the drivetrain & I had heard that a CV upgrade was beneficial.
--
"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a penis, and only enough
blood to run one at a time." --- Robin Williams
Jerry