Timing Belt Replacement on 1988 Accord?
beetlejuice
I planning on keeping it for a few more years.
Is it time to replace the timing Belt?
Thanks........
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big woody
beetlejuice wrote in message
<269584ac...@usw-ex0109-070.remarq.com>...
BLOCK@hotmail.com Susan Heigl
guess 4-5 years, or about 90 thousand miles.
"beetlejuice" <frenchikj...@networld.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:269584ac...@usw-ex0109-070.remarq.com...
Dennis Kuo
<frenchikj...@networld.com.invalid> wrote:
>I have a '88 Honda Accord with a 110,000 miles on it.
>I planning on keeping it for a few more years.
>Is it time to replace the timing Belt?
It was time at least 20,000 miles ago. Get it changed without any delay.
Dennis
Captain Nemo
confirm that the prior owner changed it at 60K or 90K. If
so, then the next scheduled replacement would be 120K or
150K or 180K, depending on whether you subscribe to the 60
or 90 interval theory.
Keith Broughton
DO IT NOW!!!!!!!!!
Geoffe Elias
Geoffe Elias
'98 Integra GSR
beetlejuice wrote:
> I have a '88 Honda Accord with a 110,000 miles on it.
> I planning on keeping it for a few more years.
> Is it time to replace the timing Belt?
> Thanks........
David
Yes, it happened to me today. Timing belt broke in my wife`s 88 Accord on her
way to work. That`s why I came to this NG,hoping for answers. It broke in stop
and go traffic; no load when it happened, idling. Am I safe in guessing there
is no other damage? I`m in the process of putting it all back together now,
here`s the problem. The crank gear and pulley have no obvious TDC marks.
Chilton`s is of no help, my owner`s manual says I have a 1955 CC engine, all
Chilton`s mentions for that CID is an OHDC engine, which mine isn`t. All I have
to go by is the woodruff and at 180 degrees a punchmark on the crank gear.
Lining up the camshaft gear is no problem. Many thanks in advance for answers.
Dave
PHUNKYKEV
driveplate/flywheel...there is a little hole to view it.depends if you have an
AUTO or MT. Once that is set youneed to set the #1 to TDC according to the
marks on the CAM pulley. Problem is that the CAM rotates 2 times for every
rotation of the crank (one intake, one exhaust stroke). So, once you time the
crank, then line up the CAMshaft as you said yourself...and if you've got it at
TDC on the #1 (where it should be) the distributor rotor will be pointed at the
#1 contact inside the distributor cap. Be sure to tension it by rotationg it
2-3 teeth (CAM..clockwise) once it is in time and before torquing the
tensioner. after this is done and everything is reassembled use a timing light
to fine tune.
Kevin
WeaverY2k
or more
valves are struck by the piston, sometimes bending the valve shaft or
putting a nick in
it. When the belt breaks, the pistons keep moving out of sync with the
valves. At 80k
mine broke a timing belt, at 156k the head blew. THEN when I took off the
head I
noted a valve had a chunk burned out of it. The opposite cylinder had taken
the load,
overheated the head and cracked it. The result: steam from the tailpipe! I
was trying
to burn gas and radiator fluid at the same time! Strange no antifreeze got
into the oil
that makes a clotting effect, jams the oil passages and burns out the engine
bearings.
Maybe trade the car in or have it checked for damages.
David <mm...@aol.comatose> wrote in message
news:20000307200011...@ng-cp1.aol.com...
BLOCK@hotmail.com Susan Heigl
it is a line. Align that line to the pointer by turning the pulley. Finish.
If you get a really rough idle then you got a problem. Always buy genuine
parts and check for leaking oils.
billk...@hotmail.com
>
> Yes, it happened to me today. Timing belt broke in my wife`s 88 Accord on her
> way to work. That`s why I came to this NG,hoping for answers. It broke in stop
> and go traffic; no load when it happened, idling. Am I safe in guessing there
> is no other damage? I`m in the process of putting it all back together now,
> here`s the problem. The crank gear and pulley have no obvious TDC marks.
> Chilton`s is of no help, my owner`s manual says I have a 1955 CC engine, all
> Chilton`s mentions for that CID is an OHDC engine, which mine isn`t. All I have
> to go by is the woodruff and at 180 degrees a punchmark on the crank gear.
> Lining up the camshaft gear is no problem. Many thanks in advance for answers.
>
> Dave
Timing mark is on the flywheel. Remove the rubber plug to see it.
The cam sprocket has 2 marks situated 180° apart. They are on the back
side of the sprocket. They align with the valve cover gasket surface of
the head when at TDC.
Remove the distributor cap and make sure you are pointing at #1 cylinder
and that the valves for #1 are all closed (a little play in the rocker
arms).
This would also be an excellant time to adjust your valves.
Also check to make sure you don't have any bent valves. This is supposed
to be an interference engine, but it seems like a lot of people get away
breaking TB's and not munching pistons/valves.
Next question you ask is "how do I get the crank bolt off"?
billk...@hotmail.com
Keith Broughton
>breaking TB's and not munching pistons/valves.
Happened to mine...no damage..:)
David
>Timing mark is on the flywheel. Remove the rubber plug to see it.
>The cam sprocket has 2 marks situated 180=B0 apart. They are on the back =
>
>side of the sprocket. They align with the valve cover gasket surface of =
>
>the head when at TDC. =
>
>Remove the distributor cap and make sure you are pointing at #1 cylinder =
>
>and that the valves for #1 are all closed (a little play in the rocker =
>
>arms).
>This would also be an excellant time to adjust your valves.
>
>Also check to make sure you don't have any bent valves. This is supposed =
>
>to be an interference engine, but it seems like a lot of people get away =
>
>breaking TB's and not munching pistons/valves.
>
>Next question you ask is "how do I get the crank bolt off"?
I`d forgotten about the timing marks being on the flywheel. Once I got the
crank bolt off, the rest was easy as cake, a piece of pie. Had to make a long
steel hook to restrain the crank pulley.
I dodged the bullet; no valve damage, and it purrs. But ya know, it`s almost
as if Honda engineered the placement of parts and bolts and brackets for
maximum frustration. They did a good job.
Thanks for the advice.
Dave
It`s not the hallucinations that frighten me.....
Rick Leir
David wrote:
>
> >Also check to make sure you don't have any bent valves. This is supposed =
> >to be an interference engine, but it seems like a lot of people get away =
> >breaking TB's and not munching pistons/valves.
I had the belt break three times, and still did not *need* to change the
valves.
But when I pulled the head recently all the intake valves were slightly
bent.
(84 prelude)
> >
> >Next question you ask is "how do I get the crank bolt off"?
>
> I`d forgotten about the timing marks being on the flywheel. Once I got the
> crank bolt off, the rest was easy as cake, a piece of pie. Had to make a long
> steel hook to restrain the crank pulley.
A large screwdriver through the timing hole, to jam the starter cogs on
the flywheel.
--
Rick Leir Supply Chain Solutions
Pelyco Systems http://www.pelyco.com
613 226 6109 rl...@pelyco.ca.nnospan
Gennady Samokhin
> Yes, it happened to me today. Timing belt broke in my wife`s 88 Accord on her
> way to work. That`s why I came to this NG,hoping for answers. It broke in stop
> and go traffic; no load when it happened, idling. Am I safe in guessing there
> is no other damage? I`m in the process of putting it all back together now,
> here`s the problem. The crank gear and pulley have no obvious TDC marks.
> Chilton`s is of no help, my owner`s manual says I have a 1955 CC engine, all
> Chilton`s mentions for that CID is an OHDC engine, which mine isn`t. All I have
> to go by is the woodruff and at 180 degrees a punchmark on the crank gear.
> Lining up the camshaft gear is no problem. Many thanks in advance for answers.
The timing mark is on the flywheel/driveplate behind the rubber plug where
transmission couples with the engine. The white mark is TDC (use it). The red one
is timing mark. The marks on the camshaft are "UP" on the inner surface of the
sprocket and two lines to be flush with the head surface. So you set the crank at
TDC and you set the cam with "UP" pointing up and two marks flush with head. then
you install TB, turn the crank and recheck the settings. When turning hear for the
bent valves.
Gennady
mk
first.
beetlejuice <frenchikj...@networld.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:269584ac...@usw-ex0109-070.remarq.com...
Keith Broughton
> I planning on keeping it for a few more years.
> Is it time to replace the timing Belt?
Now..now..now!!
Barry Hodgetts
The previous owner said his mechanic could not get the crank bolt off so
did not change the cam belt at about 90k.
Questions
Is the crank bolt difficulty to remove. Is it possibly a left handed
thread i.e. clockwise to remove.
How do you normally stop crank from turning.
Torque setting to tighten up.
are the timing alignment marks on the various components obvious.
Haynes do not do a workshop manual in the UK. Are any available in the
USA? I have not done the obvious and checked with a Honda dealer. I have
assumed like most other manufactures they are not available to the
general public.
Is there a web site of home page that describes this job.
New to site if I appear to be asking simple questions.
Many thanks....
ba...@arkendale.demon.co.uk
Barry Hodgetts
Ickem
easiest way is with an air impact wrench. Timing marks shouldn't be hard to
find. Is this a DOHC engine?
Anyway the cam sprocket up arrow should point up, and there should be a
punch dot on the crankshaft timing gear and you match that up with a raised
mark on the block(I think it was a raised dot atleast). Well once you've
turn the crankover(Counter ClockWise) until you see the arrow on the cam
sprocket point up the crankshaft gear timing mark should be on or close to
the block mark. You can adjust as need if you miss the marks by turning the
crank again. Heres a hint, use a White Out ink correcting pen to cam
sprocket tooth to the coressponding place on the belt. Do the same with the
Crankshaft gear tooth at the bottom. If you have to turn the crank alittle
Clockwise in order to line up the mark, you have to turn the cam sprocket
Clockwise to put tension on the belt again. You can lock the belt to cam
sprocket if you want with a pair of vise grips and little padding. The belt
might might be stretched so consentrate on lining up the crankshaft gear
mark to the block, since it'll be alot easier to adjust the little bit of
misalignment up at the cam sproket.
If you use a breaker bar you have to find ways of locking it . There is a
tool it's like a vise grip except with a chain on the ends which you use to
lock the pully in place.
As for torque maybe 120ishfoot pounds. Maybe someone can shed some light on
this?
My procedure to change a Timing belt.
I tried it with a Breaker bar found it too hard so I use an air impact
wrench to do it.
0)disconnect the battery.
1)remove belts and all accessories.
2)if there's anything that is in your way remove it if possible. ^_^
Once you've gain enough room to remove the upper timing cover bolts remove
the bolts(note where each one goes). Also some will and only be accessible
from the bottom.
3)remove the valve cover enough so you can get the timing cover lip out of
the valve cover overhang.
4)On a flat surface, jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands.
5)remove the plastic under tray to gain access to everything.
6) Okay get a big thick piece of wood to spread the weight when you use the
jack to support the engine.
7)With the piece of wood on top of the jack, place it under the oil pan.
Jack it up just enough to relieve the load on the motor mount.
8)Back to the top. Remove the enigine from the motor mount. Jack the engine
up more if you need to, to get the engine part of the mount out off the bolt
on the body side of the mount. Once you've done that remove the motor mount
so it won't be in your way.
9)Okay now that you've got the mount out of the way, lower the engine enough
so you can easily get at the crankbolt. Now remove the crankshaft bolt.
Once you get the crankshaft bolt off, remove the crank pulley. Don't lose
the Woodruff key!
10) Remove the rest of the timing cover bolts and remove the timing covers.
Now you can see everything.
11) Put the crank pulley back on and tighten the crankshaft bolt enough so
you can turn over the engine to line up the timing marks. (It'll probably be
better for you to use a spacer in place of the pull so you can get a better
look at the timing mark on the Crankshaft timing gear, but the timing mark
is right on a tooth on the Gear so you can just watch the gear tooth).
12)Once everything is aligned remove the Crankshaft bolt and take a good
look at the layout of the belt (belts if it's an interference
engine),finally go about changing the belt.
13)Get the belt into the teeth of the crankshaft timing gear first. Work it
up on the left side(side without the tensioner) and make sure there isn't
any slack. Since the CrankShaft gear mark perfectly(doens't have to be 110%
perfect ^_^) align to the mark on the block, you can adjust the Cam sprocket
to perfectly line up with the new belt.
14) Everything else I'm sure you can figure out from here, all you really
need now is common sense.
15) Okay the tension to set on the tensioner is where it wants to stay.You
don't have to push down on it. By the way the bolt to tighten up the
tensioner is also a bolt that holds the timing cover on.
If you want some clearification on one of my procedure just post it up.
If anyone has Anyone has information to replace what I've written please do.
P.S. It's very hard to get a torque down there if you not working on a
hydraulic lift.
"Barry Hodgetts" <arke...@arkendale.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:AWM2XDAO...@arkendale.demon.co.uk...
RM
>The previous owner said his mechanic could not get the crank bolt off so
>did not change the cam belt at about 90k.
>
>Questions
>
>Is the crank bolt difficulty to remove. Is it possibly a left handed
>thread i.e. clockwise to remove.
can be very very tight. Normal RH thread. Spent a whole weekend
breaking tools; paid a shop $5 to break it free.
Honda makes a special crank-pulley holder tool to hold engine from
turning. On a car with an automatic, there is no good way to hold
engine. You can break it free with a strong impact wrench with some
patience, or get the pulley holder tool.
>
>How do you normally stop crank from turning.
see above
>
>Torque setting to tighten up.
180 ft lbs, afaik
>are the timing alignment marks on the various components obvious.
if this is the same block as the 2.2L engine, the marks on the
cam/crank are obvious, the marks on the balance shafts are not. There
is a hole/plug in the rear of the block to insert a bolt to align/hold
the rear balance shaft. BE SURE to replace crankshaft oil seal at
balance shaft oil seal...adding an aftermarket balance shaft oil seal
retainer is a good idea (see www.tech2tec.net)
>Haynes do not do a workshop manual in the UK. Are any available in the
>USA? I have not done the obvious and checked with a Honda dealer. I have
>assumed like most other manufactures they are not available to the
>general public.
Anybody can buy all the Honda books they want from www.helminc.com.
These books cost around $55 USD. Also check out www.ebay.com as they
typically sell for about $30 second-hand.
>
>Is there a web site of home page that describes this job.
never seen one
Barry Hodgetts
The car is 16v as yet I have only lifted the bonnet. The engine number
is F20Z2. I would have thought it would have been a DOHC to fit all
those valves in.
I am in the process of overhauling an old compressor with a view to
purchasing an impact wrench. Will something like a 4cfm 230 ft/lbs do
the job or is the bigger 3/4 drive 500 ft/LB unit needed.
I have still to locate the water pump. Is that driven from the cam belt
i.e. does that need changing at the same time?
Thanks again...
In article <11cD4.984$Id7....@news.swbell.net>, Ickem <ic...@yahoo.com>
writes
ba...@arkendale.demon.co.uk
Barry Hodgetts
Ickem
slow than miss something.
We don't have DOHC accords in the U.S.. 16 valves can be driven on one
cam. The vavle cover should say DOHC on it if it's DOHC. DOHC engines
heads are very wide and wide valve covers..
If its not an interference engine the timing belt drives the water pump.
It's on the right hand side. You can't miss it.
The water pump shouldn't fail very quickly IMHO, but than again I'm not the
engineer who designed the engine. Also parts do fail, I worked on an
integra which had relatively low mileage on it and the oil pump failed on
it. Oil pumps should last along time. If you want you can change the water
pump and save your self some work later on, go right ahead. On the other
hand though, the need to change the water pump will give you some more
experience in remove and putting the timing belt back on later(Experince is
good ^_^) . Of course I don't mean when it fails than change it, maybe put
some more mileage on it first.
Hmm I never thought of how much force it would take to knock the crankshaft
bolt off. Just cranked my compressor to max at 135psi. I used a 1/2 drive
Snapon, not sure of the Foot pound rating though.
"Barry Hodgetts" <arke...@arkendale.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:YAExSDA+...@arkendale.demon.co.uk...
Barry Hodgetts
writes
>Since this is you first time doing it just take everything slow, rather be
>slow than miss something.
>We don't have DOHC accords in the U.S.. 16 valves can be driven on one
>cam. The vavle cover should say DOHC on it if it's DOHC. DOHC engines
>heads are very wide and wide valve covers..
>If its not an interference engine the timing belt drives the water pump.
>It's on the right hand side. You can't miss it.
>The water pump shouldn't fail very quickly IMHO, but than again I'm not the
>engineer who designed the engine. Also parts do fail, I worked on an
>integra which had relatively low mileage on it and the oil pump failed on
>it. Oil pumps should last along time. If you want you can change the water
>pump and save your self some work later on, go right ahead. On the other
>hand though, the need to change the water pump will give you some more
>experience in remove and putting the timing belt back on later(Experince is
>good ^_^) . Of course I don't mean when it fails than change it, maybe put
>some more mileage on it first.
>Hmm I never thought of how much force it would take to knock the crankshaft
>bolt off. Just cranked my compressor to max at 135psi. I used a 1/2 drive
>Snapon, not sure of the Foot pound rating though.
>
>> Many thanks for the excellent post.
>>
>> The car is 16v as yet I have only lifted the bonnet. The engine number
>> is F20Z2. I would have thought it would have been a DOHC to fit all
>> those valves in.
>>
>> I am in the process of overhauling an old compressor with a view to
>> purchasing an impact wrench. Will something like a 4cfm 230 ft/lbs do
>> the job or is the bigger 3/4 drive 500 ft/LB unit needed.
>>
>> I have still to locate the water pump. Is that driven from the cam belt
>> i.e. does that need changing at the same time?
>>
>> Thanks again...
>>
>
>
cam.
Sounds like the 1/2 inch impact wrench should do the job. They seem
fairly cheap at £30. I'll give it a try.
n article <sc4vdsghc819j6sga...@4ax.com>, RM <a...@at.com>
writes
>>my son has just purchased a 2000 16v Accord.
>
>>The previous owner said his mechanic could not get the crank bolt off so
>>did not change the cam belt at about 90k.
>>
>>Questions
>>
>>Is the crank bolt difficulty to remove. Is it possibly a left handed
>>thread i.e. clockwise to remove.
>
>can be very very tight. Normal RH thread. Spent a whole weekend
>breaking tools; paid a shop $5 to break it free.
>
>Honda makes a special crank-pulley holder tool to hold engine from
>turning. On a car with an automatic, there is no good way to hold
>engine. You can break it free with a strong impact wrench with some
>patience, or get the pulley holder tool.
>>
>>How do you normally stop crank from turning.
>see above
>
>>
>>Torque setting to tighten up.
>
>180 ft lbs, afaik
>>are the timing alignment marks on the various components obvious.
>if this is the same block as the 2.2L engine, the marks on the
>cam/crank are obvious, the marks on the balance shafts are not. There
>is a hole/plug in the rear of the block to insert a bolt to align/hold
>the rear balance shaft. BE SURE to replace crankshaft oil seal at
>balance shaft oil seal...adding an aftermarket balance shaft oil seal
>retainer is a good idea (see www.tech2tec.net)
>
>>Haynes do not do a workshop manual in the UK. Are any available in the
>>USA? I have not done the obvious and checked with a Honda dealer. I have
>>assumed like most other manufactures they are not available to the
>>general public.
>
>Anybody can buy all the Honda books they want from www.helminc.com.
>These books cost around $55 USD. Also check out www.ebay.com as they
>typically sell for about $30 second-hand.
>
>>
>>Is there a web site of home page that describes this job.
>
>never seen one
>
Ref the crank bolt. I have been working on BMW's for over 10 years and
can remember spending 3 days getting the crank bolt off a straight 6 to
change the oil seal. Cut it off with hacksaw in the end and brought a a
new bolt. In an attempt to stop crank turning I tried a small crow bar
in the starter ring teeth but I felt uneasy at the prospect of breaking
a couple of teeth off.
The Honda looks a little tight to get in and use the same technique
hence the post.
A friend in the office is off to Florida next week. I will ask him to
have a look for a manual. Failing that I will follow up on the above
sites.
On the one hand I would like to get the job done ASAP but I feel a lot
happier now I realise what is involved in the job.
Many thanks to both of you for your reply's.
ba...@arkendale.demon.co.uk
Barry Hodgetts