Don't tell me to use Synthetic Oil only, please help me to choose one
from above, thanks!
Which two oil additives have been around the longest: STP, Slick-50
Which two companies were forced by the FTC to stop making false claims
about their products: STP, Slick-50
>In your opinion, if I want to add the engine treatment to my 97 Integra
>GSR, then which brand is better? MotorUp? Prolong? Duralube?
>
>Don't tell me to use Synthetic Oil only, please help me to choose one
>from above, thanks!
None. If your car needed the additive, it would already be in the oil. Anything else is turning your car into an experiment for a company trying to get rich off a scam.
Use a name brand natural oil for normal use or a synthetic for abusive use. Avoid natural oils in the widest viscosity ranges. Avoid oil filters from companies you haven't heard of.
Why did you think Duralube is Durashit? And which one will you prefer,
MotorUp or Tribotech?
In my opinion, I wouldn't put any of that crap in my Honda engine. I had
an '86 Integra, which I recently sold, with over 150K miles on it using a
GOOD motor oil (Valvoline, Penzoil, Castrol) changing it every 3-5K
miles. Had a compression check on it before selling it and all cylinders
were within the original factory specifications! Why do you need these
addatives? Do you plan to run your car without any oil in the crankcase?
A complete waste of money. Buy some accessories instead.
After my mechanic pointed this out to me, I stopped using any of those
additives. I had to use another additive just to stop the leak. Now, my
1990 car just broke 174,000 miles and still running great at average 28
miles per gallon unleaded 87 gas. If you got the money to waste, go for the
hype and you'll spend more on repair -- seems like a wise marketing strategy
to me.
Ansel
nsx wrote in message ...
Ok, I'm being pessimistic but, hmmmm. Did he offer any evidence of the loss of elasticity? I mean rubber seals go bad sometimes. They can't all be due to
additives. How was he so sure about this?
I question the effectiveness of these "bonding friction reducers" but I doubt that they cause damage. At worst, a waste of money.
>The guy you pay to fix and maintain your car told you this? The same guy that makes more money the more work that gets done on your car?
>
>Ok, I'm being pessimistic but, hmmmm. Did he offer any evidence of the loss of elasticity? I mean rubber seals go bad sometimes. They can't all be due to
>additives. How was he so sure about this?
>
>I question the effectiveness of these "bonding friction reducers" but I doubt that they cause damage. At worst, a waste of money.
Rubber absorbs the lighter oils, causing it to swell. If the amount of these oils changes due to additives or engine wear, the rubber may either burst or shrink.
You can see a really quick demo by placing a chunk of silicone rubber sealant in freon solvent or a very, very light oil-based solvent. It will distort, bloat, and then burst in a matter of minutes.
Many people buy a new car and the first thing they think about is
protecting the engine and making the car last longer. That is when those
infomercials get you duped into preserving your "expensive investment."
You buy into that stuff, they become rich, your wallet is thinner, and
your car is basically given an addative which will not make it any better,
if little. These addatives may not harm your engine but why buy this
stuff if your REALLY don't need it. All the top mechanics I've spoken to
tell me these additives are nothing but BS. You don't need them. Period.
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I Agree With NSX!
All I use on my car is good Castrol oil, change it every 3,000 or so,
since I run my car hard. I also baby my 87 Integra every other oil
change with the Syntec Blend. If you want to help your engine
out...Engine flush once a year! Runs like a champ after that! It kinda
does counteract the Slick 50 and all that other crap. So If you have
used Synthetic shit, try using STP Engine Flush. It will work! I have
repaired many engines that have used this stuff. And it may do it to
yours next...Buyer Beware!!!
RLM