kgm...@usl.edu
-Kris
Do you replace the washer often? I replace the washer everytime I
change the oil and filter. I buy Honda filters at the dealer, and get
a (free) new washer every time. Go to the dealer and ask for a washer.
Ignasi.
--
Ignasi Palou-Rivera
Dept of Chemical Engineering U of Wisconsin, Madison
pa...@osnome.che.wisc.edu http://osnome.che.wisc.edu/~palou
************************************************
Kevin Mouton - Automotive Technology Instructor
************************************************
"If women don't find you handsome they
should at least find you handy!"
Red Green of Possum Lodge
************************************************
Your Honda dealer should have something called a time-sert which is
sorta like a HeliCoil.
They will repair the threads as well as they can and expand the insert
in the old threads. As long as the old threads aren't too far gone this
corrects the problem. Since the new threads are smaller, a smaller plug
and washer are used. It also helps to use a sort of silicone Honda
dealers have, called HondaBond, on the new plug and washer. This works
at least 95% of the time.
This is extremely common.
People tend to overtighten the drain plug, especially 20-minute oil change shops.
Your Honda dealer may be able to fix it if it isn't too far gone.
First, they repair the threads. Then, they will put in an insert called a time-sert.
This will make the hole smaller, so you will have to use a special plug and gasket from then on.
All this is done with the pan on the car.
It also helps to put a sort of silicone sealant called HondaBond on the new plug.
I have done this over a hundred times and it has worked 95% of the time.
> Try a little teflon tape on the threads. Just make sure you get the old
> stuff off and reapply fresh tape each time you change the oil.
>
> McCoy Kristoffer G wrote:
> >
> > I have a 90 honda civic, 1.5L. It has 125k on the clock and after about
> > 40 oil changes my drain plug threads are leaking...I can overtighten
the bolt
> > to stop the leak, but I can feel the thread stretch. Does anybody
know where
> > copper crush washers are available, or how hard is it to retap the
> > hole (with the pan still on the car)...and what is the current size of the
> > bolt and whitch size should I go up to. THanks
> >
> > kgm...@usl.edu
> > -Kris
Should you just retire the poor little guy? :-) Just kidding.
Yuan
> > kgm...@usl.edu
> > -Kris
Try the local auto parts chain. This is one item that they ought to
have that they might have a bit of difficulty screwing up. But know
what size bolt you have. My personal bet is about a 10mm bolt if the
oil plug is removed with a 13 or 14 mm wrench. I may be mistaken
though, I can not remeber, it has been a while since I broke a bolt on
one of my Honda motorcycles.
Assuming that a gasket won't fix the leak, wouldn't it be easy enough
to use a caliper to measure the id of the hole and od of the nut and
tap it out to the next larger appropriate dimension?
You may want to call Imparts in St. Louis, MO. They have drain plugs
that are a "pet-cock" style. I installed 2 of them on my cars and it
sure makes draining oil much easier than trying to unscrew the drain
plug while oil runs down one's hand. The drain plug is not removed, but
just open the pet-cock and let the oil drain. I don't have their 800
number handy; there might be other places that sell them too.
Arch.
Sorry, but I have to disagree with the teflon tape advice. Teflon tape
is only effective on, and should only be used with, tapered pipe
threaded fittings, which your Honda drain plug is not. Teflon taped
joints are not meant to be regularly disassembled. Each disassembly
increases the risk of getting teflon flakes in your oil pan. Sure, the
filter will probably get them, but why chance it? Your best bet IMHO is
to get the proper gasket from the dealer. If the the gasket surfaces
are nicked see about using a gasket made from something more malleable,
such as -Ta Daaah- teflon!
Gasket si, tape no.
Good luck!
Joseph
"You can have it fast.
You can have it cheap.
You can have it good.
Pick two."
Do they have a homepage?
: > I have a 90 honda civic, 1.5L. It has 125k on the clock and after about
: > 40 oil changes my drain plug threads are leaking...I can overtighten the bolt
: > to stop the leak, but I can feel the thread stretch. Does anybody know where
: > copper crush washers are available, or how hard is it to retap the
: > hole (with the pan still on the car)...and what is the current size of the
: > bolt and whitch size should I go up to. THanks
: Do you replace the washer often? I replace the washer everytime I
: change the oil and filter. I buy Honda filters at the dealer, and get
: a (free) new washer every time. Go to the dealer and ask for a washer.
I agree with this recommendation. The Acura dealers I've been to replace
this washer EVERY time--after a while the washer deforms, with the result
being a less than perfect seal.
--
Dennis Kuo "Stay on target."
Penn Med '97
--Email: ku...@mail.med.upenn.edu
--Home page: http://mail.med.upenn.edu/~kuod
HondaBondo whats this world coming to! :-)
This stuff is great. It's way better than regular hi-temp silicone.
Go down to the dealer and buy some. You'll agree.
I'll give it a try!!
Honda is sending it over now.
Roger
> > McCoy Kristoffer G wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 90 honda civic, 1.5L. It has 125k on the clock and after
about
> > > 40 oil changes my drain plug threads are leaking...I can overtighten
the bolt
> > > to stop the leak, but I can feel the thread stretch. Does anybody
know where
> > > copper crush washers are available, or how hard is it to retap the
> > > hole (with the pan still on the car)...and what is the current size
of the
> > > bolt and whitch size should I go up to. THanks
> > >
> > > kgm...@usl.edu
> > > -Kris
>
>McCoy Kristoffer G wrote:
>>
>> I have a 90 honda civic, 1.5L. It has 125k on the clock and after about
>> 40 oil changes my drain plug threads are leaking...I can overtighten the bolt
>> to stop the leak, but I can feel the thread stretch. Does anybody know where
>> copper crush washers are available, or how hard is it to retap the
>> hole (with the pan still on the car)...and what is the current size of the
>> bolt and whitch size should I go up to. THanks
>>
>> kgm...@usl.edu
>> -Kris
>
>This is extremely common.
>
>People tend to overtighten the drain plug, especially 20-minute oil change shops.
>
>Your Honda dealer may be able to fix it if it isn't too far gone.
>
>First, they repair the threads. Then, they will put in an insert called a time-sert.
>
>This will make the hole smaller, so you will have to use a special plug and gasket from then on.
>
>All this is done with the pan on the car.
>
>It also helps to put a sort of silicone sealant called HondaBond on the new plug.
>
>I have done this over a hundred times and it has worked 95% of the time.
Hell, if you've got that kind of problem, better check and see if the
oil pan isn't rusting thru yet -- these are known for this. Shouldn't
happen on one as new as a '90, but not out of the question.
Jim
- Jim
*! Anything I say is mine and not my employer's, ect...!*
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Jim HU <ji...@voicenet.com> wrote in article
<332F95...@voicenet.com>...
This looks like pretty old thread and so I hope somebody has not mentioned this
before ( I can not see all of it).
Have you considered replacing the pan? I have done 3 or 4 of these on older Hondas
and it was a fairly simple procedure. It was awhile ago but I remember that all I had to
do was unbolt the support member under engine, unbolt the exhaust line from exhaust
manifold and move it out of the way (part of it under the engine was a flex hose
which could be bent easily), and than unbolt the pan from the engine. The pan was
around $50 from the dealer.
This way you will not have to worry about loosing your oil and engine for the rest
of your cars life (assuming by that by now you have learned how to tighten your drain
plug)
My $.02
Darek
Darek
Do you do all of your oil changes yourself? I have noticed that
whenever I get my oil changed at Honda, they replace the plug as well as
the oil. Maybe they know something about the durability of the plugs.
For an inexpensive solution, I would try a new plug, see if it makes a
difference
Mike
I have the same problem with my 1983 toyota tercel. I have replaced the
plug about 3 times, as well as putting on a new drain plug gasket. I
did not want to replace the oil pan, since a mechanic was going to
charge $180 for 3 hours labour. I bought a $3 tube of gasket maker
which does not harden and put it around the drain plug threads before
installing the plug. Presto, no more leaks! When you remove the plug on
the next oil change the sealant will come out.
Beats changing the pan or, retapping the oil pan. I wouldn't trust a
retap without removing the pan, since metal shavings may enter inside
the pan and may cause internal damage.
Now someone is probably going to say, that sealant is going to get up
into your engine and screw it up. I have not had any problems since I
have done this over 15,000 Km ago.
Hope this helps
The threads do not seal the oil in the pan, the copper (or aluminum) washer
does. These washers (a type of gasket) are avialable at most autoparts
stores (i.e. Allcar, NAPA, etc.). Replacement plugs are readily avialable
in standard and oversize sizes. An oversized plug would be installed if
your original was cross threaded or otherwise severely damaged. They can be
installed with the pan on the engine.
Good luck!!