92 accord distributor replacement & ignition timing

[Tim]

Is there anything special i need to know before i replace my 92 accord
distributor (the whole one)? i mean if i just take the old one out and
put the new one in without touching or changing anything else, it should
work right? also, i just couldn't find the timing mark on this car?
thanks.

Tim

[Arthur Russell]

As long as once you put the new distributor in, the rotor is pointing at
the same place as the old one's was, then it sounds good.

Timing marks are on the flywheel, inside the bell housing. Looking down
at the engine, you'll see the exhaust header side. On that side, near
where it mates with the gearbox (M/T) there's a rectangular rubber plug.
Mine is almost the same color as the block because of dirt etc. It has a
easy-to-grab ear on it...pull it out, and you'll see the flywheel. There
are a few marks on the flywheel, including some casting marks. There are
also a pair of pointers cast into the housing (a pair to reduce
parallax)

Someone here with their book handy can tell you what the mark you want
looks like. But, if your car is timed OK now, you can tell by seeing
what's lined up BEFORE you remove your old distributor.

One disclaimer: I can't remember if the inspection hole's on the same
place for the automatic. Also, I believe you have to short a pair of
pins in the service plug to disable the electronic timing adjustment at
idle. If you need additional information, search this group at deja.com,
or just ask.

Good luck,
-Arthur

[Tim]

thanks for the quick answers.

but the distributor can only go in one way cuz the way honda cut the
connector to the shaft right? I mean you can't even put it in if you
turn the rotor axle 180 degree. for example, if the old rotor is
pointing down before you remove it, with everything else the same, you
can't put the new distributor in with new rotor pointing up. I just
tried it and it's not possible cuz the connector to the shaft can only
go in one way. and the connector (the half circle shaped axle) to the
rotor can only go in one way too. i guess i am ok there. please let me
know if i am wrong here.

for the timing mark, i have no clue which wheel is the
flywheel.....inside the bell housing? i didn't see any rectangular
shaped rubber plug near any visible wheels on the right hand side facing
the engine. are you talking about the wheel that's right next to the
engin block and covered by a bell cover with two screws on it? if yes,
do i have to remove the cover to see the rubber plug? i do have a M/T
but still have no clue after 30 mins searching for it. thanks much.

Tim

[Arthur Russell]

> but the distributor can only go in one way cuz the way honda cut the
> connector to the shaft right? I mean you can't even put it in if you
> turn the rotor axle 180 degree. for example, if the old rotor is
> pointing down before you remove it, with everything else the same, you
> can't put the new distributor in with new rotor pointing up. I just
> tried it and it's not possible cuz the connector to the shaft can only
> go in one way. and the connector (the half circle shaped axle) to the
> rotor can only go in one way too. i guess i am ok there. please let me
> know if i am wrong here.

So sorry, brain fade...I had this vivid mental image of my old Ford V8.
A real fade on my part, since I just had my distributor off. Yes, you
are completely right, the thing is keyed, and you can't screw up the
rotor alignment.

> for the timing mark, i have no clue which wheel is the
> flywheel.....inside the bell housing? i didn't see any rectangular
> shaped rubber plug near any visible wheels on the right hand side facing
> the engine. are you talking about the wheel that's right next to the
> engin block and covered by a bell cover with two screws on it? if yes,
> do i have to remove the cover to see the rubber plug? i do have a M/T
> but still have no clue after 30 mins searching for it. thanks much.

OK, I'm home now, so I can be of more use. Since you have a manual
transmission, I'll mail you a jpeg of a helpful picture. Set timing as
follows:
1) remove rubber cap from inspection window (see picture), attach timing
light pickup to #1 (right most) plug wire.
2) warm engine up to operating temp (cooling fan comes on at least once)
Short the service check connector (far right corner of passenger foot
well area, remove triangular plastic trim...it's taped to the wiring
harness there, two pins, short them with a piece of wire...your Check
Engine light will come on steadily, if it blinks, post here so we can
decode it)
3) loosen distributor bolts, turn distributor so that red mark lines up
with both pointers in the window. The long red mark (the one you want)
is between a pair of shorter marks. This cluster of three marks is
earlier than the white mark, which is TDC. There are large depressions
in the flywheel that you'll be able to see...but that's not what you're
after.

Good luck,
Arthur

[Tim]

please remove the"_spamthis" before you send email. I hope you haven't
done so. if you did already, please send them again. thanks.

I still have questions about the location of this service check light
connector. i'm sure it will be clearer once i see the picture. thanks
million.

Tim

[Arthur Russell]

yep, I did. I anti-spam my return address too (f*cking spam) It's too
late for me though, spam spam spam spam.....

Now, go time that beast!

-Arthur

[Tim]

OK decoding time for the engine check light.

4 short blinks
9 short blinks
4 long blinks & 1 short blink

?????????

thanks a lot.

[Tim]

never mind. i reset it and it's gone now. probably from the bad
distributor and all that adjusting. thanks.

tim

[Tim]

Thanks again for your help. everything is working now. take care.

Tim