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Replacing Oil Pan Gasket on 98 Honda Accord EX VTec 4Cyl

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techj...@gmail.com

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Jan 25, 2008, 6:36:25 PM1/25/08
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Hello, Group:

When you replace the oil pan gasket for this make/model, do I need to
also replace the oil pan? I have some leaking from the gasket area of
the pan, so I'm trying to take the easiest way out. Also, are there
any tutorials on the Internet to do this job?

Thanks,

--TJ

motsco_

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Jan 25, 2008, 6:57:05 PM1/25/08
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--------------------

You sound like you've got it figured out, but I still wonder if 98% of
Honda pan gasket 'leaks' are just oil running down from the messy oil
filter area. Others will have what you seek.

'Curly'

jim beam

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Jan 25, 2008, 7:01:20 PM1/25/08
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in my experience, most leaks respond well to tightening the nuts a
little, making sure the rocker cover gasket isn't leaking, the pcv valve
is not blocked, and using a decent oil that has seal conditioners like
castrol.

techj...@gmail.com

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Jan 25, 2008, 7:13:50 PM1/25/08
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On Jan 25, 3:57 pm, motsco_ <mots...@interbaun.com> wrote:

OK. So I should have a new oil pan ready as part of the replacement
of the oil gasket?

Thanks,

--TJ

techj...@gmail.com

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Jan 25, 2008, 7:23:17 PM1/25/08
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Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv valve. This
does require removing the transmission, correct?

--TJ

On Jan 25, 4:01 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:

jim beam

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Jan 25, 2008, 7:28:21 PM1/25/08
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techj...@gmail.com wrote:
> Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv valve. This
> does require removing the transmission, correct?

absolutely not. it's the crank case breather valve on the engine -
nothing to do with the transmission.

jim beam

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Jan 25, 2008, 7:33:10 PM1/25/08
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unless there's something wrong with it - like it's all banged up or the
drain plug threads are stripped, no, you don't need to replace the pan.

one thing you /do/ need to be aware of is having to disconnect the
exhaust system, and that can be problematic because the both threads
often strip. that's why i suggest you try simply tightening the
existing gasket a little [not too much], looking for other leaks, and
using an oil that will help prevent leaks. if you do the above and
after a few weeks, it's still leaking, go ahead and buy the gasket, the
correct [non-hardening] sealant, and some spare exhaust bolts. and the
honda workshop manual. best use a torque wrench.

motsco_

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Jan 25, 2008, 9:04:39 PM1/25/08
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techj...@gmail.com wrote:
> Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv valve. This
> does require removing the transmission, correct?
>
> --TJ
>

=================

Look up your car at www.slhondaparts.com Find the engine and the intake
/ valve cover. The PCV is there at the end of a hose.

'Curly'

ni...@nowhere.com

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Jan 28, 2008, 8:06:14 AM1/28/08
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Be 100% sure that the leak is indeed the gasket seal. I did this on a
95 Accord and it was a pain. Try what the other posters have mentioned
and tighten the bolts a bit before going through with the change. I
have a slight leak on our 99 Accord now and am still thinking if I
want to go through and do this myself or pay someone to do it because
of how much time my first change took me.

Elle

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Jan 28, 2008, 11:30:18 AM1/28/08
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<techj...@gmail.com> wrote

> Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv
> valve. This
> does require removing the transmission, correct?

No, replacing the PCV valve is very easy on most Hondas and
kinda tough on some, though. It appears very easy for yours,
per
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=BREATHER+TUBE

See the following for help (manuals and/or illustrations
with changing the oil pan gasket and PCV valve).

http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html (Try the 96
Accord manual)

www.autozone.com

bkhondaparts.com for illustrations. For the breather tube,
click on "Display all," read down.

Buy only an OEM PCV valve. Should cost under $25 at your
dealer.

I would be surprised if the oil pan was not mating properly
to the engine block yada surface, but I guess it could
happen. I think the leakage would be way worse if the pan
were this deformed.

Maybe buy one of those cheapo, small range, torque wrenches
at Harbor Freight to torque the oil pan nuts to spec. This
is what I used on my 91 Civic a few years ago when I did the
oil pan gasket.

I'd be checking around the distributor's bottom for signs of
leakage, too. The camshaft penetrates the distributor
housing, and there's a seal or two where it does. They are
known to need replacement every five years or so. Google
this newsgroup for more info.


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