You should not have to drill out anything. Have to check, but I
believe it's a lot easier than that...
--
Spike
1965 Ford Mustang Fastback 2+2, Vintage Burgundy
w/Black Std Interior, A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok;
Vintage 40 16" rims w/225/50ZR16 KDWS BF Goodrich
gForce Radial T/As, Cobra drop; surround sound
audio-video...
See my ride at....
Feb 2004- http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/003_May_21_3004.jpg
Feb 2004- http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/005_May_21_2004.jpg
Jul 2005- http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/davescar_7_11_05_002.jpg
Jul 2005- http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/Engine_rebuild_006.jpg
"Spike" <j...@snowcrest.net> wrote in message
news:ou08v1tmf67ad6kb1...@4ax.com...
No, the OP is correct. The bezel just holds in the ignition switch "module"
to the car. The key barrel can't be removed from the ignition switch
"module" without the key. They are two separate pieces that are combined.
To re-key a classic, you have to have the original key for the ignition. Not
for the other locks obviously, but specifically for the ignition.
--
Scott W.
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/
>Hi,
I just went through both Chilton and Haynes manuals and essentially,
it says to remove the cyl you have to insert the key, turn it, and
slip a wire into the hole....
Then, to replace the switch, it says the same thing, followed by...
...then press on the rear of the switch and rotate the switch 1/8 turn
counter clockwise. Remove the bezel, switch and spacer. Next, remove
the nut from the back of the switch. Remove the accessory and gauge
feed wires from the accessory terminal. Pull the insulated plug from
the rear of the switch. Follow reverse order to install the new
switch.
If you are replacing the switch and cylinder, then destruction of the
old is not important. It seems I recall a large screwdriver being
used. Lets see if anyone has any information on that before going
with it. ANYONE?
"Spike" <j...@snowcrest.net> wrote in message
news:n7l9v1dsh6q3b06sm...@4ax.com...
On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 00:16:31 GMT, "Fred V." <fre...@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
...then press on the rear of the switch and rotate the switch 1/8 turn
counter clockwise. Remove the bezel, switch and spacer. Next, remove
the nut from the back of the switch. Remove the accessory and gauge
feed wires from the accessory terminal. Pull the insulated plug from
the rear of the switch. Follow reverse order to install the new
switch.
If you are replacing the switch and cylinder, then destruction of the
old is not important. It seems I recall a large screwdriver being
used. Lets see if anyone has any information on that before going
with it. ANYONE?
--
Spike
Yes, You may end up shearing the index pin on the bezel. If that happens new
ones are available for about 15 bucks.
--
Mark
--
Without the key on an old car like that you can pick the lock and avoid a
lot of trouble. I'm no locksmith but I've done it lots of times.
Al
Are you a thief?
--
Mark
--
>Hi,
Here is a possible alternative.... contact a locksmith. My dad seems
to recall that they can cut a key with just enough on it to turn the
cylinder, and it would only be a couple of bucks, kronor, Deutsche,
Euros, lira, pesos, escudos, shillings, or whatever
: 0 ) Don't even need a key for a pattern.
No... no it isn't.
Three twists to screw it in
One - MAYBE two yanks on the slide and POW you are gone.
Provided the SOB starts right up and runs.
KJK
On some of the older models, if the ignition is well worn you can slide the
key in and out rapidly while putting forward force on the key (as in turning
it on to start it) and with some blind luck you may hit just the right spot
and it will turn BUT this is much more common in older GM vehicles than in
Fords. In older GMs it was pretty easy much of the time.
KJK
:
Hmph!
Shoulda done that in the first place
KJK