please recommend a good synth. motor oil for me?
newbie steve
synthetic this time.
If it matters much, I live in a mild climate (N. California) and my '87
LX 5.0 has 140k miles
preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
thanks
-newbie steve
Musttanguy
>synthetic this time.
>
Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check it
out,your motor will love you for it.
http://members.aol.com/musttanguy/main.html
MUSTTANGUY@AOL
95 Mustang conv.v6,chrome17"s, dual exh,fogs
91 Mustang conv,95 run'n gear,GT40,orig.cobra body kit,modified
87 Mustang GT,for sale
82 Mustang GT,future BB
86 Ranger 4x4,9"lift,33's,91 5.0 going in
92 Bronco 4x4,7"lift,35's,winch,351
NoOption5L
In article <19990116191507...@ng-cb1.aol.com>, mustt...@aol.com
(Musttanguy) writes:
>> I thought I may as well try a synthetic this time. preferred brand/oil
>>weight,etc..?
>Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
Mobil 1 is good and its price is the most reasonable of the full synthetics.
>I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates, (also in N Cal.)
I disagree with using 50W oils. There's no need for them, and the thicker
viscosity will cost you a few ponies. Go with what Ford recommends 10W30 and
add a good Fram PH8A oil filter.
Patrick
Black/Gray '93 Cobra
Black/Gray '95 Accord EX
Black/Gray '87 5 liter 5 speed LX - (For sale - but only to a good home)
Dave Edwards
work great. I don't think you will fell any difference performance wise by
switching but I like the piece of mind knowing I'm getting the extra protection.
P.S. If you want a synthetic oil at a good price try the Parts America version.
It is made by Texaco. It is usually about a buck cheaper than the others. Also for
a little bigger oil filter, try the Fram HP-1. It will give you about an extra half
quart capacity of oil.
Dave
Musttanguy wrote:
> > I thought I may as well try a
> >synthetic this time.
> >preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
> >
> Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
> I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
WindsorLX
newbie steve wrote:
> Since I'm a bit overdue for an oil change, I thought I may as well try a
> synthetic this time.
>
> If it matters much, I live in a mild climate (N. California) and my '87
> LX 5.0 has 140k miles
>
> preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
>
> thanks
>
> -newbie steve
Mobile 1 is no where near the best synthetic oil available. It is one of the
best off shelf available, wit Castrol Syntech. I recomend Red Line blue
label or Amsoil. I was very surprised to see that Jacobs Electronics says
they endorse NO motor oils, but of all they tested, the Amsoil worked best
for them wiht the bypass filter system.
sbest
>> I thought I may as well try a
>>synthetic this time.
>>preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
>>
>Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
Based on what? The test results I have seen put Amsoil, Castrol and
Redline out in front with darn little difference between any of the
synthetics.
>I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
Why? It would be like molasass in the crankcase.
Your motor was designed for 5W30 or 10W30 so why not use it?
>(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
>oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
>the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
Another internet rumour that inspite of using synthetics in over a
dozen cars, trucks, rototillers, lawnmowers, gearboxes and rear axles
I have never seen any sign of.
>are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check it
>out,your motor will love you for it.
>
I don't mean to sound confrontational but these are my views from my
experiences.
Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
4x4 van website:
http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tino
be fine. One may be better than the other but all are so much better than
conventional that its almost not work looking around for a specific brand. I
have tried Castrol, Quakerstate, Amsoil and even a GENERIC ones such as Esso
and Canadian Tire (canadian automotive chain store - oil made by Imperial
oil). Anyway on very cold days in winter they all stayed very liquid
compared to conventional oil and one did not strike me as being better than
the other. I use 10W30 and I have around 150,000 miles.
I think you really cant go wrong with any of the brands as long as the
brands are reputable.
newbie steve wrote:
> Since I'm a bit overdue for an oil change, I thought I may as well try a
> synthetic this time.
>
JD & The Bear
> >Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
>
> Based on what? The test results I have seen put Amsoil, Castrol and
> Redline out in front with darn little difference between any of the
> synthetics.
Agreed! All synthetics will protect engines better than petroleum oils,
and from what I've read, all API-certified petroleum products perform
nearly equally as well. The only problem I've ever personally seen with
synthetics is the tendancy to foam excessively under very high RPM
(9,000+) racing applications.
> >I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
>
> Why? It would be like molasass in the crankcase.
> Your motor was designed for 5W30 or 10W30 so why not use it?
Agreed. When I switched my wife's '86 F-150 XLT Lariat to 5w30, WHAT A
DIFFERENCE! It cranks much faster, esp. in cold weather, gets much
better fuel mileage, and that "rumble" I usually hear when first
starting it up cold is gone, likely due to better luberication in the
upper-end on cyls 5/6/7/8. Also, it now has a few more ponies than it
did before - an actual "seat of the pants" measurement, over the old
20w50 stuff she used to have put in it. That stuff was like thick,
gooey honey!
Use anything but 5w30 in a 4.6L engine, and your warrenty is
automatically voided. Also, if you use 10w40, nearly every carmaker
will also void your warranty, due to the damage that this grade has
caused in the past, for reasons I won't go into here.
>the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage
> Another internet rumour that inspite of using synthetics in over a
> dozen cars, trucks, rototillers, lawnmowers, gearboxes and rear axles
> I have never seen any sign of.
Bah. Same here. I've been using synthetics for 10+ years in every
internal combustion engine I've owned, and my work truck (Frieghtliner
Classic), without seal-leakage problems. I think this is a pile of
horse-hockey. ALTHOUGH, Mobil's website recommends using petroleum
products during break-in, so that older rubber-based seals will swell
and seat in properly on new cars.
JD & The Bear
____________________________________________________
We always welcome PGP encrypted mail. Usenet morons
need not bother. You know who you are. Our RSA key
and legitimate Email address can be found here:
____http://208.147.33.75:80/jd/pgp/9c674d1d.txt_____
WindsorLX
sbest wrote:
> On 17 Jan 1999 00:15:07 GMT, mustt...@aol.com (Musttanguy) wrote:
>
> >> I thought I may as well try a
> >>synthetic this time.
> >>preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
> >>
> >Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
>
> Based on what? The test results I have seen put Amsoil, Castrol and
> Redline out in front with darn little difference between any of the
> synthetics.
>
> >I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
>
> Why? It would be like molasass in the crankcase.
> Your motor was designed for 5W30 or 10W30 so why not use it?
>
> >(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
> >oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
> >the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
>
> Another internet rumour that inspite of using synthetics in over a
> dozen cars, trucks, rototillers, lawnmowers, gearboxes and rear axles
> I have never seen any sign of.
>
> >are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check it
> >out,your motor will love you for it.
> >
>
> I don't mean to sound confrontational but these are my views from my
> experiences.
>
> Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
> 4x4 van website:
> http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
It's hard to believe these rhoumers still circulate. The only thing I diagree with
is about the 50 weight oil. I have the Amsoil 20W50 and it shakes in the bottle like
mineral oil. I thought it looked too thin at first.
JD & The Bear
> Note: I could use a synthetic blend but who knows exactly what
> percentage "blend" they use? It could be 5% synthetic and 95% regular
> for all I know. I have checked labels occasionlly and I have yet to
> see a brand advertise the mixture.
It's probably more like >1%. Technically, all they have to do is add
one drop of synthetic oil to a 5-million gallon petroleum oil tank to
meet that advertising spec. Much wiser to mix your own.
--
WindsorLX
JoeBlow wrote:
> On Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:29:32 GMT, sb...@glinx.com (sbest) said:
>
> >>(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
> >>oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
> >>the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
> >
> > Another internet rumour that inspite of using synthetics in over a
> >dozen cars, trucks, rototillers, lawnmowers, gearboxes and rear axles
> >I have never seen any sign of.
> >
> From my experience here I do agree with the "rumor", at least in my
> car. When I use straight conventional oil my car uses about a quart
> every 1500 miles. With synthetic I use about a quart every 1000
> miles. For the most part recently I have been using 2 quarts of
> sythetic and 3 conventional and replace with sythetic until about 3000
> and change it (see Note). I've been burning or losing (never see any
> under the car and the underneath has no oil on it at all so i assume
> really burning, of course I never see smoke either)
<Ssssssnip> Which has nothing to do with said rhumors. When Mobil 1 first came
out, it wrecked rubber seals. That was fixed many years ago. High performance engines
use a little oil, and if you use some, then you will use a little more synthetic,
because it flows better. If you use a whole quart every 100-1500 miles, I think you
are using too much oil.
Musttanguy
in my post,it was as follows:
Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check it
out,your motor will love you for it.
It was stated that it is" ABOUT" the best oil out there,to which it
is,especially for the price and availability,along with its quality.It was not
stated it is the BEST.it was also stated that "I" prefered the 15/50,not this
is what he should run.It has also been my experience,which is quite extensive
that sometimes cars that have a few miles on them have seals that are worn &
"CAN" develope a slight seal leak
I have been involved in Mustangs since 1985,and continue to be heavily
involved,for myself and others.I have tried many things through out the years
and will recommend things that have worked well for myself as well as
customers.So before you are so quick to
dispute read the posts for their actual content.
There are no hard fealings,everyone has their own preferences.
Please feel free to visit my web site,as it has our Mustangs that we currently
own,along with a few great links.Happy Mustanging all
ADSavarese
However, I've been using Penzoil Full Synthetics on my '92 for years without
a problem. Disagree on the "most reasonable" though. I purchase Mobil 1 at
Wal-Mart for $3.99/QT; Castrol for $3.99/QT; BUT Penzoil for $2.99/QT.
Also recommend changing both the transmission and rear end to full synthetic
as well. Well worth the investment long term.
ADSavarese
ads...@gte.net
NoOption5L wrote in message
<19990117000646...@ngol01.aol.com>...
>
>In article <19990116191507...@ng-cb1.aol.com>,
mustt...@aol.com
>(Musttanguy) writes:
>
>>> I thought I may as well try a synthetic this time. preferred brand/oil
>>>weight,etc..?
>
>>Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
>
>Mobil 1 is good and its price is the most reasonable of the full
synthetics.
>
>>I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates, (also in N Cal.)
>
sbest
>> >oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
>> >the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
>>
>> dozen cars, trucks, rototillers, lawnmowers, gearboxes and rear axles
>> I have never seen any sign of.
>>
>> >out,your motor will love you for it.
>> >
>>
>> experiences.
>>
>> Steve Best, Nova Scotia,
>> 4x4 van website:
>> http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
>
<maxwedg...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>It's hard to believe these rhoumers still circulate. The only thing I diagree with
>is about the 50 weight oil. I have the Amsoil 20W50 and it shakes in the bottle like
>mineral oil. I thought it looked too thin at first.
>
I think that even Amsoil 20W50 synthetic would be too thick for
normal use, after all, the 20W designation would have it to be the
exact same viscosity as conventional 20W50 at 14F degrees and the 50
designation has it the exact same viscosity as conventional 50weight
at 100F. It is only below 14F that synthetic will show a thinner than
conventional 20W viscosity.
The clearances built into an engine are designed for a certain
thickness of oil. Trying to squeeze thick oil into too small a
clearance means that oil pressure goes up(causing heat) and flow goes
down, losing cooling, perhaps losing sufficient film to support the
journal on the bearing.
I was amazed at how big a jump the actual viscosity takes from 30 to
50 SAE weight rating, it almost doubles. Don't you think this is too
much?
The only condition I would use any type of 20W50 is if the engine
was worn to the point it did not hold sufficient oil pressure and
tended to have bearing knock. Then it is a crutch to carry the engine
another year of so.
Cobra Owner 2B
>
> Agreed that Mobil One is ONE of the best out there. Also agree on 10w30.
> However, I've been using Penzoil Full Synthetics on my '92 for years without
> a problem. Disagree on the "most reasonable" though. I purchase Mobil 1 at
> Wal-Mart for $3.99/QT; Castrol for $3.99/QT; BUT Penzoil for $2.99/QT.
>
> Also recommend changing both the transmission and rear end to full synthetic
> as well. Well worth the investment long term.
> ADSavarese
> ads...@gte.net
I've been watching this thread, but never thought I would respond to
it. I definitely want to run synthetics in the Cobra. Today I went to
get the oil changed in my temporary car (dawning fire retarding suit for
admitting this) and I got to talking to the guy at the oil change
center. I fully realize that this place pushes Penzoil real hard, but
when we got to talking about synthetics I told him that I wanted to use
Mobil 1 in the Cobra. He asked why. I didn't have a good answer so he
started telling me about Penzoil's synthetic. He claims 2 things.
First, that it is the cleanest synthetic available (whatever that means)
and that if you use only Penzoil synthetic oil and Penzoil filters that
Penzoil will warranty your engine against oil related failure for 1
million miles.
Anyone know if this is true? And anyone know where that web site is
that listed all the major synthic oils and showed ash content and all
kinds of other specs on oils. I thought I had it bookmarked, but can't
find it.
tia
--
Kenny
"They killed Kenny, you Bastards!"
99 Mustang Cobra - Rio Red
delivery expected 3-99, suspense is killing me, but wife says "you're
waiting
for the new body style so just live with it." The price I pay for peace
(piece?)
RAMFM Member since 8-98
sbest
>To go back and clerify as to what was missed
>in my post,it was as follows:
>
>Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
How do you know this? Mobil literature?
Most of the stuff I have read puts it mid-pack in a close race.
Still much better than conventional oil.
>I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
Why? isn't it way too thick for an engine designed for 10w30?
50 weight oil is almost twice as thick as 30 at operating temps.
>(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
>oil is finer,
What? What does the 15w50 designation mean? It means that at the
test temperatures this oil meets certain viscosity standards. It is
only above and below these temperatures that synthetic oil has any
viscosity differences. It usually stays thinner at extreme cold temps
with a very low pour point and keeps a good measure of its viscosity
at extreme hot temps (280F or more) and has a higher flash point
(350-400F) compared to conventional oils.
>and if you have wear in your seals
>the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since you
Hmmm, the oil consumption in the cars in my taxi business went down
after the switch to synthetic, no extra leaks, no seal problems.
Ditto my personal vehicles and aircooled small gas engines.
My experience with synthetic goes back to 1981 when I first used it in
a 351C motor I had. The motor was freshly rebuilt and there was no
change in oil consumption with the switch but 1/4 mile times went down
slightly.
>are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check it
>out,your motor will love you for it.
>
>It was stated that it is" ABOUT" the best oil out there,to which it
>is,especially for the price and availability,along with its quality.It was not
>stated it is the BEST.it was also stated that "I" prefered the 15/50,not this
>is what he should run.It has also been my experience,which is quite extensive
>that sometimes cars that have a few miles on them have seals that are worn &
>"CAN" develope a slight seal leak
Totally agreed. "that sometimes cars that have a few miles on them
have seals that are worn & "CAN" develope a slight seal leak"
Yup, no disagreement from me on this.
>I have been involved in Mustangs since 1985,and continue to be heavily
>involved,for myself and others.I have tried many things through out the years
>and will recommend things that have worked well for myself as well as
>customers.
I guess this is the spot where I should post my resume?
Kinda boring so I will condense: Lived all over, automotive courses,
welding courses, swapped motors for pay, some Army time, trained
machinist, trained industrial mechanic, trained electrician,
competitive rifle shooter, rebuilder, taxi business, machine
troubleshooter at present, part ownership of trans shop, modified
every vehicle I ever owned, only Mustang was a 67 bought in 1977
although I owned 3 60's Cougars, 74 Maverick 351C CJ 4 spd, 70 Torino
351C 4v, 78 Merc Marquis 460 4wheel disks, 78 Zepher Z7 289 4v Toyota
5 spd, 4wd Ford van 35"tires, plus much more. The biggest thing is all
the time I had to learn this stuff in school, I was interested.
>So before you are so quick to
>dispute read the posts for their actual content.
>There are no hard fealings,everyone has their own preferences.
I don't intend any. I wanted to hear why you have these
preferences. I could learn something from them. Or you could.
That is the purpose of this discussion I hope. My opinions are based
on my training and experience, that is why I ask.
>Please feel free to visit my web site,as it has our Mustangs that we currently
>own,along with a few great links.Happy Mustanging all
>
>http://members.aol.com/musttanguy/main.html
>
>MUSTTANGUY@AOL
>95 Mustang conv.v6,chrome17"s, dual exh,fogs
>91 Mustang conv,95 run'n gear,GT40,orig.cobra body kit,modified
>87 Mustang GT,for sale
>82 Mustang GT,future BB
>86 Ranger 4x4,9"lift,33's,91 5.0 going in
>92 Bronco 4x4,7"lift,35's,winch,351
I most certainly will visit, I do enjoy fine cars!
top...@2xtreme.net
Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth,
I use 20w-50 Amsoil series 2000 racing in my wifes 87 caddy .
On our way home from long trip from Alanta Ga.
to Calif the heater core busted and lost all the water out of engine
& rad every light was on & bell was ringing and computer was
indicating to shut engine down now.
We had no way to stop because we were in a construction zone no stopping
and no way to pull off for 12 miles . Had to keep driving until we cleared the
zone 12 miles then pulled off and the engine shut down .
There we were in the middle of nowhere in Colorado 120 miles from Denver. I
seen a Truck shop about 3/4 mile in the outbound area. After 20 minutes
cooling I said lets try see if we can get there.The engine fired right up and
off we went .everything sounded ok but I knew the heads or head gaskets were
cooked . Iron heads on alum. block. They tested & found what I thought ,
leakage in the heads. Had the car towed to Denver and it checked they could
not find any other problems . That engine had over 130,000 so I had a new
engine installed. and we still have it today and I still use 20w 50 series
2000 racing oil in it. it now has another 120,000 on this engine and running
strong.
I never look at cost of oil only the quality,I know it the best investment I
can make in my equipment .After working 43 years on Jet aircrafts I know
synthetic is the only thing I will ever use in my engines and trannys & rear
ax. Randy
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
JD & The Bear
> Anyone know if this is true? And anyone know where that web site is
> that listed all the major synthic oils and showed ash content and all
> kinds of other specs on oils. I thought I had it bookmarked, but can't
> find it.
Oh yeah, I was the one who has mentioned this site often, it's at:
http://cpu2009.adsl.bellglobal.com/oilfacts.html
Don't know how Penzoil's synth. stacks up against the rest; I didn't
know they marketed such a product until now. I'd be interested in
finding out more about it though.
Although, I still wouldn't go into a quickie-lube place!
Cobra Owner 2B
>
>
> Although, I still wouldn't go into a quickie-lube place!
>
>
> JD & The Bear
>
I certainly understand your hesitation to do so. I do it only because I
know the assistant manager (he has a 97 or 98 GT) and I watch every move
very closely.
--
Kenny
99 Mustang Cobra - Rio Red
delivery expected 3-99
RAMFM Member since 8-98
Rich Machuzak
put anything but *conventional* motor oils in it. No Teflon additives,
Duralube, etc. It still does not burn oil, does not smoke, has the same
gas mileage as new, etc. It has never been overhauled.
They just changed the oil regularly. That's it.
Regards,
Rich Machuzak
WindsorLX
Cobra Owner 2B wrote:
> I've been watching this thread, but never thought I would respond to
> it. I definitely want to run synthetics in the Cobra. Today I went to
> get the oil changed in my temporary car (dawning fire retarding suit for
> admitting this) and I got to talking to the guy at the oil change
> center. I fully realize that this place pushes Penzoil real hard, but
> when we got to talking about synthetics I told him that I wanted to use
> Mobil 1 in the Cobra. He asked why. I didn't have a good answer so he
> started telling me about Penzoil's synthetic. He claims 2 things.
> First, that it is the cleanest synthetic available (whatever that means)
> and that if you use only Penzoil synthetic oil and Penzoil filters that
> Penzoil will warranty your engine against oil related failure for 1
> million miles.
>
> Anyone know if this is true? And anyone know where that web site is
> that listed all the major synthic oils and showed ash content and all
> kinds of other specs on oils. I thought I had it bookmarked, but can't
> find it.
Ask for proof. Amsoil and Redline have the highest quality base stock of any
synthetic oil on the market. Period.
WindsorLX
Musttanguy wrote:
> To go back and clerify as to what was missed
> in my post,it was as follows:
>
> Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
To Clearify what others may have missed, this is not eve close to being the
truth....
WindsorLX
Rich Machuzak wrote:
Muscle car owners are rarely ones to subscribe to conforming mediocrity.
Musttanguy
>> in my post,it was as follows:
>> Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
WindsorLx spewed the following:
>To Clearify what others may have missed, >this is not eve close to being the
>truth....
BACK IT UP WITH FACTS THEN !!!!!!!!!!!!
What was stated was my opinion,it was not stated as a fact.MY OPINION is based
on many years of experience (18)(you were what, 1 year old back then ?) with
building,repairing,and modifying autos.
have at it,if not move on to the next posts.
WindsorLX
Musttanguy wrote:
> >> To go back and clerify as to what was missed
> >> in my post,it was as follows:
> >> Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
>
> WindsorLx spewed the following:
> >To Clearify what others may have missed, >this is not eve close to being the
> >truth....
>
> BACK IT UP WITH FACTS THEN !!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> What was stated was my opinion,it was not stated as a fact.MY OPINION is based
> on many years of experience (18)(you were what, 1 year old back then ?) with
> building,repairing,and modifying autos.
> have at it,if not move on to the next posts.
I wasn't the one who did the "spewing" as you so eloquantly put it. You never
identified what you said as opinion rather than fact.
JD & The Bear
>
> My friend has a Nissan Maxima with over 245,000 miles on it. Has never
> put anything but *conventional* motor oils in it. No Teflon additives,
> Duralube, etc. It still does not burn oil, does not smoke, has the same
> gas mileage as new, etc. It has never been overhauled.
>
> They just changed the oil regularly. That's it.
I believe this. In 1989, I met a *large* gal who drove a '63 Chevy
pickup as she was buying 4 cases of motor oil at a parts store. She
told me it had over 300k on the original engine, with no problems.
Watched it when she fired it up and sure enough, not even a little puff
of smoke.
Her secret? She changed the oil monthly, since it was brand new. She
was buying conventional petroleum oil, penzoil I believe. Synthetic oil
is great stuff, but I still think that the frequency of changes has more
to do with engine longevity than the type of oil you use. Ironically,
some who use synthetic don't change it often enough because of the
cost. Go figure.
WindsorLX
JD & The Bear wrote:
Actually some don't because it's not necessary. Amsoil garauntees their
extended change interval.
WindsorLX
Bruce Abrams wrote:
> WindsorLX wrote in message <36A5835A...@mindspring.com>...
> *snip*
> >Ask for proof. Amsoil and Redline have the highest quality base stock of
> any
> >synthetic oil on the market. Period.
>
> I'm not saying Amsoil and Redline aren't good products, but what do you base
> your comment on that they "have the highest quality base stock of any
> synthetic oil on the market. Period."? What's your proof?
Reports from independant labs.
Bruce Abrams
Bruce Abrams
quality"? What objective criteria were used in the evaluation?
WindsorLX wrote in message <36A6B5A3...@mindspring.com>...
>Reports from independant labs.
>
sbest
<maxwedg...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
>Bruce Abrams wrote:
>
>> WindsorLX wrote in message <36A5835A...@mindspring.com>...
>> *snip*
>> >Ask for proof. Amsoil and Redline have the highest quality base stock of
>> any
>> >synthetic oil on the market. Period.
>>
>> I'm not saying Amsoil and Redline aren't good products, but what do you base
>> your comment on that they "have the highest quality base stock of any
>> synthetic oil on the market. Period."? What's your proof?
>
>Reports from independant labs.
Hmmm, who paid for those reports?
Where did you hear this info?
JD & The Bear
> I'm not saying Amsoil and Redline aren't good products, but what do you base
> your comment on that they "have the highest quality base stock of any
> synthetic oil on the market. Period."? What's your proof?
For some reason, I can't find an ILSAC or API certification on any of
the Amsoil containers I've seen. If this stuff was truly the
miracle-product everyone claims it to be, it would have the API
starburst on the label, sit on every auto parts store shelf, be
recommended by OEM's.
»|\/|årãúÐér«
This is an interesting site to check out about motor oils.
WindsorLX
Bruce Abrams wrote:
> What reports and what independant labs? How did they define "highest
> quality"? What objective criteria were used in the evaluation?
You sure ask a lot of questions for being the person who Mobil 1 is about the
best you can buy. If you are truely interested in learning more about the
subject I suggest you do your own investigation.
WindsorLX
JD & The Bear wrote:
> For some reason, I can't find an ILSAC or API certification on any of
> the Amsoil containers I've seen. If this stuff was truly the
> miracle-product everyone claims it to be, it would have the API
> starburst on the label, sit on every auto parts store shelf, be
> recommended by OEM's.
>
> JD & The Bear
Funny, I don't see Synergyn, Red Line or Royal Purple on every parts store shelf.
Maybe Bruce Abrams isn't quite a bag of wind after all. I have a report of a 4
ball wear test ASTM D4172 that says Mobil 1 is #2 under Amsoil followed by Quaker
State an Red Line. If you want to know what independent lab did the test, call
and ask Amsoil.
Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 API Service SH, SJ, CF
0W-30 SH, SJ, CF ILSAC GF-1, GF-2
All the bottle I have seen says it on the back label
Bruce Abrams
know the first thing about it. I'm a self proclaimed newbie to the
performance car world and am just looking for information of the accurate
and verifiable variety. When it comes to stuff like motor oils, uninformed
opinions are fairly useless. If a claim is made that something is of the
"highest quality", everyone here deserves to know why that is so. We're no
longer talking about opinion, but objective fact.
WindsorLX wrote in message <36A7FAAD...@mindspring.com>...
JD & The Bear
> Funny, I don't see Synergyn, Red Line or Royal Purple on every parts store shelf.
> Maybe Bruce Abrams isn't quite a bag of wind after all. I have a report of a 4
> ball wear test ASTM D4172 that says Mobil 1 is #2 under Amsoil followed by Quaker
> State an Red Line. If you want to know what independent lab did the test, call
> and ask Amsoil.
>
> Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 API Service SH, SJ, CF
> 0W-30 SH, SJ, CF ILSAC GF-1, GF-2
>
> All the bottle I have seen says it on the back label
It's been a couple of years since seeing an AMSOIL bottle. Perhaps
they've since acquired the certification? I'm always put off by product
marketers who refuse to make their product available through everyday
retailers.
WindsorLX
JD & The Bear wrote:
> WindsorLX wrote:
>
> > Funny, I don't see Synergyn, Red Line or Royal Purple on every parts store shelf.
> > Maybe Bruce Abrams isn't quite a bag of wind after all. I have a report of a 4
> > ball wear test ASTM D4172 that says Mobil 1 is #2 under Amsoil followed by Quaker
> > State an Red Line. If you want to know what independent lab did the test, call
> > and ask Amsoil.
> >
> > Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 API Service SH, SJ, CF
> > 0W-30 SH, SJ, CF ILSAC GF-1, GF-2
> >
> > All the bottle I have seen says it on the back label
>
> It's been a couple of years since seeing an AMSOIL bottle. Perhaps
> they've since acquired the certification? I'm always put off by product
> marketers who refuse to make their product available through everyday
> retailers.
There was a reason it was not certified. I don't remember what it was, but it was
something to do with API's rules on what they are willing to test.
Jay P. Kapur
Mobil1 and I do not think that it is worth the price. Get Mobil1. It is
available almost everywhere, and Amsoil is not.
Also, Amsoil advertises "extended drain intervals". Do not believe this
crap. The Amsoil dealer told me I should change my filter every 3,000miles
(Amsoil says 12,000) and change the oil every 12,000miles. I did this for
6,000 miles (i.e. one filter change at 3,000 and then an oil change at 6,000
rather than 12,000) and was horrified with the results.
The oil after 6,000 miles (3,000 of which were easy going highway miles
during a cross-country drive) was dark black and full of particles. The oil
was so thick and black it looked like tar. I had gotten the Amsoil engine
flush prior to using the Amsoil 5w30 and Amsoil filters, so this wasn't crud
from the old mineral oil. Also, my engine only had 8K on it when I swiched
to Amsoil, so it should have been very clean anyways. My conclusion was
that the Amsoil claim of extended drain intervals was crap, and therefore I
couldn't trust their product.
I now use Mobil1 5w30 and Mobil 1 filters. Mobil reccommends the 3,000 mile
drain interval, unlike Amsoil.
I also put Amsoil synthetic ATF in my t-45. I now wish I had used Mobil1
ATF in my tranny.
--
Jay P. Kapur
jka...@andrew.cmu.edu
Musttanguy wrote in message
<19990116191507...@ng-cb1.aol.com>...
>> I thought I may as well try a
>>synthetic this time.
>>preferred brand/oil weight,etc..?
>>
>Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic out there.
>I like the 15/50 weights for the mild climates,
>(also in N Cal.) the only thing about the synthetics is that the
>oil is finer,and if you have wear in your seals
>the synthetic oils will usually find them causing you alittle leakage.Since
you
>are due for an oil change,I would go ahead and swap in the synthetics.Check
it
>out,your motor will love you for it.
>
>http://members.aol.com/musttanguy/main.html
WindsorLX
"Jay P. Kapur" wrote:
> I have used Amsoil 5w30 and Mobil1 5w30. Amsoil costs twice as much as
> Mobil1 and I do not think that it is worth the price. Get Mobil1. It is
> available almost everywhere, and Amsoil is not.
It depends on your purpose.
> Also, Amsoil advertises "extended drain intervals". Do not believe this
> crap.
Why?
> The Amsoil dealer told me I should change my filter every 3,000miles
> (Amsoil says 12,000) and change the oil every 12,000miles. I did this for
> 6,000 miles (i.e. one filter change at 3,000 and then an oil change at 6,000
> rather than 12,000) and was horrified with the results.
>
> The oil after 6,000 miles (3,000 of which were easy going highway miles
> during a cross-country drive) was dark black and full of particles. The oil
> was so thick and black it looked like tar. I had gotten the Amsoil engine
> flush prior to using the Amsoil 5w30 and Amsoil filters, so this wasn't crud
> from the old mineral oil.
Yes, it was....
> Also, my engine only had 8K on it when I swiched
> to Amsoil, so it should have been very clean anyways.
Then why did you use the engine flus in the first place??
> My conclusion was
> that the Amsoil claim of extended drain intervals was crap, and therefore I
> couldn't trust their product.
How did you deduce this, did you have the oil tested?
>
>
> I now use Mobil1 5w30 and Mobil 1 filters. Mobil reccommends the 3,000 mile
> drain interval, unlike Amsoil.
>
> I also put Amsoil synthetic ATF in my t-45. I now wish I had used Mobil1
> ATF in my tranny.
Why exactly is that? According to INDEPENDANT test results Amsoil exceeds Mobil
1.
David Stacey Michael Anna
In my '88 Mustang, I used "regular" motor oil for the first 50-60k miles.
During that period of time, I didn't change it regularly, and I wasn't as
concerned with preventive maintenence as I am now. But I switched to Mobil
1 and changed it every 3000 miles.
In my '94 Escort, I've used Mobil 1 5W30 from the beginning and changed it
every 3000 miles. Started using the Mobil 1 filters when they came out,
too. They're actually made by Champion.
In the '87 GN, nothing but Mobil 1 10W30 and Mobil 1 filters. Changed every
3000 miles.
The oil always comes out black in all my cars, but it's "clean". No sludge.
No particles. No nothing. I can't complain.
There was a discussion a while back on the gn/t-type mailing list about a
synthetic oil called "purple-something", or "something-purple".
Purple-Haze? "Royal Purple" sounds familiar. Anyway, they were saying it
was good stuff. Although I've never seen it on the shelf anywhere.
Dave
Wo...@yahooremove.com
<jka...@andrew.cmu.edu> wrote:
>I have used Amsoil 5w30 and Mobil1 5w30. Amsoil costs twice as much as
>Mobil1 and I do not think that it is worth the price. Get Mobil1. It is
>available almost everywhere, and Amsoil is not.
>
>Also, Amsoil advertises "extended drain intervals". Do not believe this
>crap. The Amsoil dealer told me I should change my filter every 3,000miles
>(Amsoil says 12,000) and change the oil every 12,000miles. I did this for
>6,000 miles (i.e. one filter change at 3,000 and then an oil change at 6,000
>rather than 12,000) and was horrified with the results.
>
>The oil after 6,000 miles (3,000 of which were easy going highway miles
>during a cross-country drive) was dark black and full of particles. The oil
>was so thick and black it looked like tar. I had gotten the Amsoil engine
>flush prior to using the Amsoil 5w30 and Amsoil filters, so this wasn't crud
>from the old mineral oil. Also, my engine only had 8K on it when I swiched
>to Amsoil, so it should have been very clean anyways. My conclusion was
>that the Amsoil claim of extended drain intervals was crap, and therefore I
>couldn't trust their product.
>
>I now use Mobil1 5w30 and Mobil 1 filters. Mobil reccommends the 3,000 mile
>drain interval, unlike Amsoil.
>
>I also put Amsoil synthetic ATF in my t-45. I now wish I had used Mobil1
>ATF in my tranny.
A cheaper route might be to go with a house brand synthetic if you
change every 3k miles and don't drive the car very hard as I think
it's kind of a waste to change synthetics this early.
I think Pep Boys' synthetic oil is only about $2.50/qt.
JayKapur
>
>Why exactly is that? According to INDEPENDANT test results Amsoil exceeds
>Mobil
>1.
Actually, I have read test results that show Mobil1 5w30 is better overall than
Amsoil 5w30. This is because Amsoil used more additives in their 5w30 than
Mobil1.
The Amsoil 10w30 fared better than Mobil1 10w30 because Mobil used more
additives in their 10w30. You probably saw results on the 10w30 only.
Regardless, Amsoil is not worth twice the cost of Mobil1, which is already an
expensive oil. The money spent on Amsoil is better spent on a bypass filter
kit if you are really worried about oil quality.
Bruce Abrams
Wo...@yahooREMOVE.COM wrote in message
<36df2ead...@nntp.ix.netcom.com>...*snippage*
>>I also put Amsoil synthetic ATF in my t-45. I now wish I had used Mobil1
>>ATF in my tranny.
Having just put Amsoil ATF in my T-45 a couple of months ago, I couldn't
more highly recommend a product. The improvement is most clearly noticable
on a cold morning. Used to be real stiff and "notchy" feeling until she
warmed up. With the Amsoil ATF it shifts as easily stone cold as it does
after 15 minutes.
As for motor oil, I've been using Syntec 5w30 with very good results.
Change every 6,000 and the oil is still clean.