idle problem
Jessica Durie
out in the spring it has this terrible idle. it is real rough and goes from
750 rpm to 1000 rpm up and down. i have sent my question into 5.0 mustang
magazine and have asked all my buddies that own mustangs and no one has an
answer for me! I have put a new tps sensor, o2 sensors to solve this
problem, but that car is mostly rebuilt and has new parts on it. does
anyone know what to do????????
please reply!
fly mx
having, it will most likely apply to you as well, if the idle is going up
and down the IAC is either sticking [ because it is sitting alot ] or it is
set wrong and the computer is taking a bit of time to react and bring it
back to where it is supposed to be...
___________
You should check the IAC [ idle air control ] on the side of the throttle
body, it may be sticking or shot completely, maybe pull off the intake tube
and shoot some carb cleaner directly into the IAC port and possible give it
a tap with a wrench to get it unstuck.
It may not be set properly either, with the car already warmed up , shut it
off and unplug the unit [ IAC] , start the car, keep it running till you
have the throttle plate adjustment screw adjusted to keep the motor at about
50 rpm below what you want it at for normal idle, then shut the car off,
plug the IAC back in and restart the car, the motor may race a bit for a
second until the computer recalibrates.
If you still have problems with it , borrow one from another Mustang that
is working to rule it out completely.
This should fix your problem .
Dave.
"Jessica Durie" <jduri...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:N9HA8.151$Ok3....@news1.news.adelphia.net...
caledonian
tends to start to break-down after a few months and will gunk-up the carb or
injectors come Spring. If this is the case, some fuel system cleaner should
get things running smoothly again.
Steve
'00 GT
"Jessica Durie" <jduri...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:N9HA8.151$Ok3....@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Serge
tb is stock you won't have an adjusting screw for idle as it is set at the
factory. Clean the tb thru so there is no black deposit blocking the air
from seeping in from around the buterfly and the little hole in the
buterfly. That might be all that is wrong...
2 cents...
Serge
"Jessica Durie" <jduri...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:N9HA8.151$Ok3....@news1.news.adelphia.net...
fly mx
Dave.
"Serge" <phiso...@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:kAJA8.37$Sc5....@news20.bellglobal.com...
Clark Kent
The problem is idle air by-pass valve, It is not broken or sticking
like the other guy said. The fact taht your idle is going up and down
is proof that it works. The problem is your computer is sending
current to the Idle by-pass valve causing it to open and close, all it
is, is an electromagnetic valve. This is how you fix your car from
this off idle pain in the ass. Look at this picture and make your
vlave look like this. I turned mine into a mecanical valve with and
adjustment screw, I done have a digital camera so I scanned it but
you can still see it fine. Attachments are not allowed but this is a
good enough reason to post one. So I can help you and other with this
problem. If you can not open or see the attachment picture leave me
your e-mail and I will send it to you with info on how to do this.
Backyard Mechanic
> problem. If you can not open or see the attachment picture leave me
> your e-mail and I will send it to you with info on how to do this.
Bull%^&!
Another case of "Fix the symptom"! I have no problem with you posting this
"fix" as a point of interest but to suggets that it will "solve" the problem
is bogus.... esp for someone that has little or no interest in "personal
mods". By all logic, This will ultimately lead you back to replacing the
EFI with a carb!
The IAC is either sticky.. working but not fast and accurate enough.. or oyu
have another related problem.
New Yawk is full of Mustang lovers.. surely there's a few here.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:v3r6du043h9d620t4...@4ax.com...
Joe
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html
HTH.
Joe
Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
Silver '02 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfo...@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:3cd3d822$0$3340$272e...@news.execpc.com:
fly mx
demands of the air/fuel mixture at that given point, that is what the IAC
motor is there for, if you mess with it , you will just create new problems.
It could also need an injector service or at least some injector cleaner in
the next two or three tanks of fuel.
Ruling out the IAC is the cheapest easiest first thing to check.
Dave.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:v3r6du043h9d620t4...@4ax.com...
>
>
Clark Kent
87-93 that have not had this problem. Some of the cars were heavily
modified, however I have seen some that were bone stock and still they
surged. My car is heavily modified, pretty much the only thing that
is stock that I have not changed is the springs. Anyway My car had
the idle problem , like almost all the others. I knew this was the
problem. (idle by-pass). Knowning about electronics and how shit
works, I fixed me Idle air by-pass so that it would not open and close
making the car idle high for no reason sitting in trafic. Man it use
to drive me crazy. This mod that I made Fixed my idle problem and my
car has run perfect since. And if you think my mod is Bullshit, that
is your opinion , that is why a short time after I fixed my by-pass
valve a aftermarket company came out with and adjustible valve that is
similar to the one I fabricated. I am just trying to give advice on
what I know works. You sound like the kind of guy that would bitch
about porting the heads and would say, "If Ford wanted them that way
they would have been that way from the factory." Trust me Guy Ford
is not Perfect. The Mustangs have bugs , plenty ! This shit worked
for me and I have never had a problem since. So b4 you go around
saying that it is bullshit why dont you try to do some testing .
Clark Kent
years ago I remote mounted my TFI module onto its own heatsink away
from the hot ass engine and away from the hot ass distributor so that
It would not burn out. I have had it on my car since I got my car
back in 88 and I have never changed my TFI still to this day. My car
has at least 180000 miles on it. Guess what ? Now Fords TFI's are
remote mounted did ya know that mr smarty pants? The reason why I
brought this up it to let ya know that ford knew they messed up on
this one so that made some changes. Think about it !
On Sat, 4 May 2002 08:46:13 -0400, "Backyard Mechanic"
<pettyfo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
fly mx
way but whatever..
I have had a half dozen Mustangs from the mid 80s on , 79 Pace car to 92
LX5.0 , does not really make me an expert on anything , but I have built a
few blown nitrous injected mustangs, 5.8 N/A -Ws, Twin Turbo 5.8Ws, single
turbo 5.0s , your hunting problem was most likely caused by the lack of mass
air in 88, with all the " mods " that you did the computer can not handle
the fluctuations in manifold pressure by only reading off of the Map sensor
, you could remedy this on a stick car by disconnecting the IAC and drilling
out the throttle plate or making an adjustable bypass as you have done, but
it is still a make shift answer to non Mass air cars, on modified cars if
you have Mass air on a 5.0 and as long as the injectors are sized correctly
the car should idle without taking out that part of the computers control ,
your way takes away one of its abilities to fine tune under all conditions,
yes it will run but the computer will only do what it can and is designed to
do which means the fuel ratios will be from time to time way out of wack.
Dave.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:v1t7du8nhchgfvp2k...@4ax.com...
Clark Kent
part.
even b4 i put all the good stuff on the car it would act up. For no
reason at all sitting in traffic the RPM's would shoot to 2000 and
stay there. I bought a new valve and thought that this would fix it,
but no it didnt. I still did the same thing, mind you that my car
was stock. So I fixed it little glitch. Then I added Alumin. heads,
roller rockers, ect. and It never has given me a problem. Now I am
doing a 393w swap and I have bought all the goods for it the engine
swap so far has cost me $ 7600.00 Ibought a Mass Air Conversion kit
with a 80mm any calibration MAFS to go along with 42lb injectors. I
painted some things that is why the attachment that I posted looks
like that . I was just spreading a word of advice to some people that
have this problem. And the other guy shot me down. I dont think this
group is for me. I am sure I would get a better welcome in the
alt.chevy.camero group.
Matt
from mustangs unlimited
matt
93 lx
Backyard Mechanic
the fix is STILL a bullshit fix.
Now go back and read the thread originating post.. tell me that this is the
right answer for HER situation.
If your fix has been copied by an aftermarket company that's great and you
should be proud... thing is.. it has nothing to do with her problem.
This aint some guy whose mods have gotten beyond the ability of the system
to adjust to it.
It may work for you, and it may be the best answer for a car with even a FEW
mods.. in that case, it's valid.. just as I said.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:a7u7du0lnsfbfrbq0...@4ax.com...
fly mx
get dressed tomorrow morning.. :) .
If your car would shoot to 2000 sitting at idle there was something major
wrong with it period, taking the IAC out of it cured the symptom not the
problem, if this was a problem all the Mustangs would sit in traffic with
erratic idles and major law suits for unintentional acceleration which odds
would say out of the millions of Mustangs on the road would have caused more
than a few major accidents or even deaths by now.
I think whats tried to be said here is they want to fix it properly, the
cars did not come from the factory with a hunting/shooting idle so anything
that dismantles the original set up that "works" would just not be the first
route to take, more like the last one if there is no other fix found.
Any advice is appreciated most of the time as long as people are left to
decide what they think is good or not , your advice may be valid in some
cases to this type of symptom, but for a stock car with an intermittent
problem it is not the right direction to take from the start.
Might be better to just ask people to not be as aggressive in there
rebuttals to your argument than just leave, it was only one person out of
hundreds.
Try not to be as offended of other peoples views just because they do not
agree with yours, you have done something that has solved to your
satisfaction a problem you were having, you think it is the right way for
everyone to go, but pretty well everyone including the Ford engineers say
that you are wrong in your advice [ shop manuals/ tech support ] , they put
that unit in there for a reason, you are taking it out for a different
reason.
But whatever..
Oh ya , I don't think you would last to long in the Chevy land groups , they
are pretty territorial.
You should hang around anyway.
Dave.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:l6i8duks545kn3t0g...@4ax.com...
webknight
belt, upper radiator hose.
Which PCV valve is wrong, upper radiator hose is a flex hose the sucky kind,
and the belt actually fits. So the rest goes back tommorrow when i pickup
my order.
chad / webknight
"Matt" <z1...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020504210113...@mb-dh.aol.com...
WindsorFox
Joe wrote:
> Here's the answer from the corral:
>
> http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html
>
> HTH.
>
> Joe
> Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
> Silver '02 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
Interesting, I have always been told to put the TPS at .98 which is
where mine is. I only have a problem when I run the AC. I was just going
to replace it when I do the throttle body.
--
"The frozen North will hatch a flightless bird, who will spread his
wings and dominate the Earth. He will cause an empire by the sea to
fall, to the astonishment and delight of all."
BOYCOTT Excessive Motorsports !!
http://www.geocities.com/fordracing68/xm.html
"I'm sorry, I'm afraid I subscribe to the theory of
intellectual osmosis. As such, I must now cease our
conversation and move away from you before my intelligence
begins to drop. Good day." the Gord http://www.actsofgord.com
Clark Kent
not even look to see that it was a girl that had the idle problem
until you mentioned it! Oops ! Now I feel bad ! I sould have
looked! I thought it was one of our mustang brothas !
Clark Kent
Thx fly ! :-) just want us to all be nice to each other!
Joe
news:3CD4F32A...@cox.net:
>
>> Here's the answer from the corral:
>>
>> http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html
>>
>> HTH.
>>
>> Joe
>> Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
>> Silver '02 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
>
>
> Interesting, I have always been told to put the TPS at .98 which
> is where mine is. I only have a problem when I run the AC. I was
> just going to replace it when I do the throttle body.
I don't think there's a big difference between .95 and .98. The main
thing is to keep it below 1.00.
Backyard Mechanic
party water pump for my probe 2 liter.. and
1. Had a large support boss on it that shaved the edge off the timing belt.
2. Had to be loosened and moved because the impeller was rubbing the block.
I've had several OTHER instances of either WRONG or bad design parts that I
caught before install.. they are worse than Autozone.. so I just buy ALL
critical or intensive labor parts from NAPA.
Why? Because they cany AFFORD to sell wrong parts to shops.
"webknight" <REMOVEw...@NOSPAMevergame.com> wrote in message
news:_N2B8.64804$To6.19...@e420r-atl1.usenetserver.com...
Backyard Mechanic
As I said before.. your fix is okay for a guy that does his own maintenance
and is deep into the mechanics.
This situation was different..
Imagine someone installed your fix for her and then she had another problem
and took it to a service center.
It would cost her MORE total than if she just fixed it properly in the first
place. besides the hassle.
Now, considering that, would YOU say- seeing someone ELSE suggest TO HER
that she mod her car, that it was BULLSHIT?
"fly mx" <ye...@right.com> wrote in message
news:ud9dpk4...@corp.supernews.com...
Backyard Mechanic
Dunno where that ".98 v" came from but I sure cant find it in any of my
manuals.
Maybe I'll set it down and see what happens.
"WindsorFox" <windsorf...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3CD4F32A...@cox.net...
Backyard Mechanic
magic "1".. I KNOW for sure it doesnt work well at 1
That's why I like the idea of going lower.
"Joe" <nob...@home.net> wrote in message
news:ab3mbu$f2ido$2...@ID-49604.news.dfncis.de...
Backyard Mechanic
mind the fact you HAD the idea..
and I am interested in it.
"Clark Kent" <Supe...@Dailyplanet.com> wrote in message
news:ttgadusft0kbp591v...@4ax.com...
Michael King
butterfly when it's closed. It is used to set the butterfly open to a
measured gap when the throttle is closed, I don't know the exact gap
measurement. The engine will not, and should not idle properly with the IAB
unplugged. When unplugged on a running engine, the idle should drop and be
very rough for a few seconds then stall.
--
Mike King
Black 2000 Spring Feature GT
Steeda Tri-ax and K&N
"Member Since 96"
.news:ud6pp98...@corp.supernews.com...
fly mx
check manual under idle adjustment ], you plug in the IAC after the
initial setting [ 50 rpm below desired final rpm ] for the computer to take
over and keep it at that point in all conditions.
If unplugged while running it could stall because the computer has
calibrated itself [ fuel and timing etc.. ] to run with it in place , if
disconnected it will/may not recalibrate fast enough.
Dave.
"Michael King" <mik...@excite.comma> wrote in message
news:gzAB8.13978$n3....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Michael King
copy of the EEC-IV engine book and I'm sure it said that the butterfly was
set to a specific gap, not to a specific idle. I can't remember the name of
the book but it is considered the best info in EEC-IV engine control
components. I never set that screw any other way then by a gap gauge and I
cleaned the IAC once a year. I never had any of the idle problems mentioned
in this thread.
--
Mike King
Black 2000 Spring Feature GT
Steeda Tri-ax and K&N
"Member Since 96"
.
"fly mx" <ye...@right.com> wrote in message
Michael King
on the throttle plate stop. (It's not an idle set screw)
--
Mike King
Black 2000 Spring Feature GT
Steeda Tri-ax and K&N
"Member Since 96"
******** Tech Tips ********
How to fix a hunting idle... Idle Problems
A common problem in the EEC-IV controlled 302 Mustangs is a hunting idle.
This is an idle which fluctuates in RPM up and down and up and down....It
can be very annoying.
There are a lot of tricks people use to try to fix this problem. Most of
them don't work.
One common trick (that doesn't work) is to try to "fool" the EEC-IV into
thinking the engine is still in warm-up. This is accomplished by installing
a low temp thermostat and/or removing the ECT (engine coolant temperature)
sensor. It fails when the HEGO sensors detect a too rich fuel mixture, and
the EEC-IV compensates by leaning the mixture out. Now you're back to the
hunting idle.
The EEC-IV is programmed to idle the car at 672 RPM. Incorrect throttle
plate position is the primary cause of the problem in most cars. To adjust
this, back the screw out until it no longer touches the throttle plate stop.
Insert a 0.010 feeler gauge between the screw and the stop and turn the
screw until it touches the feeler gauge. Then turn the screw another 1.5
turns. Then adjust the TPS (throttle position sensor) to 0.98V.
I had this problem for the longest time in my car and tried the steps above
to correct it. Unfortunately, I didn't have a voltmeter handy so I used
trial and error with the TPS adjustment. The car has been idling smoothly
around 650-700 RPM ever since, and that's with a big Kenne Bell Mark II cam
I have installed in it! (The K-B Mark II has dimensions similar to the
Motorsport X303, but a wider lobe center).
"Michael King" <mik...@excite.comma> wrote in message
news:J_BB8.14042$n3....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
WindsorFox
fly mx wrote:
> Sorry , that screw is used to set the base idle, making it an idle screw
> check manual under idle adjustment ], you plug in the IAC after the
> initial setting [ 50 rpm below desired final rpm ] for the computer to take
> over and keep it at that point in all conditions.
> If unplugged while running it could stall because the computer has
> calibrated itself [ fuel and timing etc.. ] to run with it in place , if
> disconnected it will/may not recalibrate fast enough.
> Dave.
>
Heh, hwo told you that??
fly mx
this makes it the adjustment screw, you do not tell the motor what idle you
want by the gap , it is programmed by disconnecting the IAC , this tells the
computer it is in set mode, once you plug it in after manual setting, the
computer logs the rpm you set [ with the idle screw ] , and takes over
control for all conditions, it will set aprx. 50 rpm above that point..
This is how the Ford mechanics that I know do it, this is how I always did
it, it always worked.
Her problem is still most likely a sticking or non functional IAC .
Dave.
"Michael King" <mik...@excite.comma> wrote in message
news:J_BB8.14042$n3....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Michael King
stop for the butterfly and is set using a gap gage. The idle is controlled
by the computer. Again, I will post the correct information.
--
Mike King
Black 2000 Spring Feature GT
Steeda Tri-ax and K&N
"Member Since 96"
******** Tech Tips ********
How to fix a hunting idle... Idle Problems
A common problem in the EEC-IV controlled 302 Mustangs is a hunting idle.
This is an idle which fluctuates in RPM up and down and up and down....It
can be very annoying.
There are a lot of tricks people use to try to fix this problem. Most of
them don't work.
One common trick (that doesn't work) is to try to "fool" the EEC-IV into
thinking the engine is still in warm-up. This is accomplished by installing
a low temp thermostat and/or removing the ECT (engine coolant temperature)
sensor. It fails when the HEGO sensors detect a too rich fuel mixture, and
the EEC-IV compensates by leaning the mixture out. Now you're back to the
hunting idle.
The EEC-IV is programmed to idle the car at 672 RPM. Incorrect throttle
plate position is the primary cause of the problem in most cars. To adjust
this, back the screw out until it no longer touches the throttle plate stop.
Insert a 0.010 feeler gauge between the screw and the stop and turn the
screw until it touches the feeler gauge. Then turn the screw another 1.5
turns. Then adjust the TPS (throttle position sensor) to 0.98V.
"fly mx" <ye...@right.com> wrote in message
news:udeh8la...@corp.supernews.com...
Michael King
the butterfly. By backing the screw out then back in a quarter turn, you
have allowed the butterfly to close completely and the computer can control
the idle as it was designed.
--
Mike King
Black 2000 Spring Feature GT
Steeda Tri-ax and K&N
"Member Since 96"
.
news:ounedu4ro9nsvh2ci...@4ax.com...
> That may be the "book" way to do it and may work on some cars. But it
> didn't work on mine whereas backing the "screw" all the way out and
> then back in 1/4 turn has made it idle perfectly for the last 3 years
> and completely eliminated all traces of surging.
> Jim
> '88 LX 5.0
> '99 GT 35th Anniversery Edition - Silver
> Mods to date - Relocated trunk release to drivers side, shortened throttle
cable.