What's the best way to seal a transmission's pan to a C4 trans?
cj
weekend. What's the best kind of sealant to use for the pan's gasket? Is
there a torque order sequence to follow when tighten up the pan to the
transmissions? What torque range should the bolts be torqued? If anyone
out there has any secrets for the perfect seal, please let me know.
Thanks for you help,
John
Dennis Mitchell
for pan bolts
Dtm
"cj" <cjl...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
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Stuart & Janet
be more to help keep the gasket on the pan during installation. Don't over
torque and the seal will be fine. HTH StuK
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cj <cjl...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
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geewhiz
I have now sworn off gaskets completely, having had very good luck with the
aerosol gasket-in-a-can called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. It's relatively
expensive initially, but a can will go a long, long way.
My Pinto's overhead cam valve cover always leaked with any and every brand of
cork gasket and any type of sealant...used this "Right Stuff" sealant with no
gasket, and it's leak free.
I rebuilt a C6 for a friend, and used the gasket in a can for the extension
housing and pan...no leaks. You can imagine how much hassle and delay I would
have went through trying to track down an extension housing gasket, without
having to buy an entire kit. The sealant was a godsend in this case.
Changed the trans fluid on my wife's Mitsubishi with a vertically mounted
pan...used "Right Stuff" and have no leaks.
Since your C4 uses a steel mesh filter, it is possible for you to remove the pan
and filter, clean the filter, and reinstall using gasket in a can. This way,
you will not have to buy anything other than the gasket in a can.
The only thing you have to be careful with is your clothes. If you get this
stuff on you, it stains your clothes permanently.
It's nice not to have to worry about buying gaskets before starting a job. You
just make whatever gasket you need, with the exception of head gaskets and
intake manifold to head interface gaskets, of course.
Pep Boys carries it, as probably many other auto stores as well.
Gerard
Thundersnake 14
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Mark C.
gasket itself to squeeze out. Make sure the bolt holes in the pan are flat
and the pan and trans case are scraped clean. Use a solvent to get all the
oil off the surfaces. You can use a high tack to hold the gasket in pace but
I usually put a couple of bolts through the pan and gasket and thread them
into the trans. Start all the bolts and go around a couple of times
tightening them using your finger tips on the ratchet. Tighten them until
the gasket compresses a little.
Mark C.
"cj" <cjl...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
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ProTech Computer Services
Once you remove the pan, using a ball pen hammer tap down any dimples that
may be from over tightening previously.
Clean both surfaces very clean and dry. I like to use a little ( dont over
do it ) RTV red on the pan smeared on with my finger ( be careful not to
lick your fingers after ) once it has had a chance to setup a bit, set the
good quality cork/rubber gasket ( like a McCord or FelPro ) gasket onto the
pan.
Start all the bolts, fron a center point out evenly snugup all the bolts. I
generally do it to a snuf feel with a 1/4 ratchet.
Add the appropriate atf fluid and start, drive and test for leaks...
basically bring it to operating temperature. recheck the fluid. Drive it for
a day or so and recheck the bolts.
cj <cjl...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
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