1964 1/2 Ford Mustang problems starting...
Adam Morris
My wife finally has her dream car (a 1964 1/2 Mustang in Rangoon
Red) but yesterday it failed to start twice. The problem went away
both times, but I don't like recurring problems (even worse, ones that
I don't know what causes them)...
So can anyone help with some advice as to what to do first?
When my wife attempts to start the car most of the time it starts
perfectly. On two occasions it hasn't even turned over. The ignition
key is turned, and there is a loud click, and that is it. A friend
who used to own a 1968 said that her car did that and it was the
Voltage Regulator. The click appears to come from about half way down
the engine compartment on the passenger side. The first time it
started after two failed attempts. The second time it took eight to
ten.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice,
Adam
Les Benn
"Adam Morris" <adam....@providence.org> wrote in message
news:e32a411a.03061...@posting.google.com...
Mulatz
helped but ultimately it was a failing starter that was the cause. 2 months
after the solenoid change it didn't start again so I changed the starter,
then for spits and giggles I put the old solenoid back on to test it (yes I
do keep the crapped out parts even when they are cheap) and the solenoid was
fine.
Take a look at both. The parts are cheap and save you from being stranded
somewhere.
My two bits. (price increase due to inflation)
Kirk.
"Les Benn" <les...@starband.net> wrote in message
news:eOmHa.3289$xk3.143...@twister1.starband.net...
Bill S.
In this order of replacement, starter solenoid, battery cables,
voltage regulator, battery, starter, then alternator. The most likely
culprit is the starter solenoid, followed by a bad battery, and or bad
battery cables............But then again, what would I know about
vintage Mustangs......................
Bill S.
Andrew Croft
out to be the voltage regular. I went to an vehicle electronics
specialist in an attempt to trace the problem thinking he'd hook the
car up to all sorts of diagnostic do-hickies. We opened the hood and in
three seconds he said 'Where the hell did you get that?' pointing to
the generic voltage regular from Canadian Tire [aka Crappy Tire up here
in Canada]. I walk to the Ford dealer a few blocks away while he puts
my battery on charge. I pay four to five times what it cost me at CT. I
think it was something like $46CAD while the CT crap was $9.99. When I
got back and installed it in front of his shop, all of my problems
disappeared that day and have not since returned. Granted, I have all
new wires and good grounds, but regardless of all that it boiled down
to the cheap crap voltage regulator. Buy Ford, you won't regret it.
But then... what would I know about Mustangs yada, yada, yada.
[tongue firmly planted in cheek :-P ]
Andrew Croft
'65 Caspian blue 6 cylinder coupe, blue interior [07.85 to present]
http://www.inhouseproductions.on.ca/Mustang.jpg
'96 Forest green GT coupe, grey interior [04.96 to 04.00]
'88 medium blue 5.0LX hatchback, grey interior [93-04.96]
'80 white hatchback, red interior [91-93]
In article <e32a411a.03061...@posting.google.com>, Adam
Adam Morris
>
> In this order of replacement, starter solenoid, battery cables,
> voltage regulator, battery, starter, then alternator. The most likely
> culprit is the starter solenoid, followed by a bad battery, and or bad
> battery cables............But then again, what would I know about
> vintage Mustangs......................
>
Thanks for the advice... Apparently the friend with the same problem
caused by a "Voltage Regulator" was the starter solenoid. She pointed
to the solenoid... I don't know where the confusion between the
solenoid and the voltage regulator came in. It seems like the Starter
Solenoid is most likely, and that's where I'll start.
btw it's a 1964 1/2, they have a generator, not an alternator... So I
guess you don't know anything about vintage mustangs. :-P (just
teasing Bill, I've read some of your other posts on here and you seem
to be very knowledgable. Thanks)
And thanks to everyone else for their suggestions.
Adam.
Gene Wagenbreth
G
--
Gene Wagenbreth
Stuart&Janet
If originality is not a concern the newer electronic ones are the best. Then you could
always put the old "tin can" on it to look proper. StuK
"Andrew Croft" <nos...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:160620032133412798%nos...@yahoo.com...
Andrew Croft
voltage regulator is better? The CT one was the one that crapped out on
me.
But then... what would I know about Mustangs yada, yada, yada.
[tongue firmly planted in cheek :-P ]
Andrew Croft
'65 Caspian blue 6 cylinder coupe, blue interior [07.85 to present]
http://www.inhouseproductions.on.ca/Mustang.jpg
'96 Forest green GT coupe, grey interior [04.96 to 04.00]
'88 medium blue 5.0LX hatchback, grey interior [93-04.96]
'80 white hatchback, red interior [91-93]
In article <lG7Ia.145$MH2.19...@mantis.golden.net>, Stuart&Janet
Stuart&Janet
Their starter relays seem okay though. StuK
"Andrew Croft" <nos...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:180620032243133410%nos...@yahoo.com...
Adam Morris
> My wife finally has her dream car (a 1964 1/2 Mustang in Rangoon
> Red) but yesterday it failed to start twice. The problem went away
> both times, but I don't like recurring problems (even worse, ones that
> I don't know what causes them)...
>
Greetings,
My heartfelt thanks to everyone who suggested anything to resolve
this problem. In case anyone else has the same situation, here was
the problem and the solution for us. If anyone else has the same
trouble I would suggest trying the same steps that we took.
When the ignition key was turned, some of the time the engine
would start, and at other times there would just be a single "click"
noise. No other electrical problems seemed to exist. Once the engine
was started it seemed to run perfectly well, it was only a problem
starting it in the first place.
Following suggestions we started by replacing the Starter
Solenoid. This is very easy to do and fairly cheap, so it's a good
place to start. Unfortunately it didn't resolve our problem.
The next thing to try was replacing the battery cables. Again
this didn't resolve the problem, but is also easy to do. At the same
time we cleaned the battery terminals (to ensure a good contact) and
tested the battery itself with a cheap hydrometer/battery tester. The
battery tested good, so I felt that we could rule out the battery, the
voltage regulator and the generator (alternator in newer cars). Just
to explain why I ruled out the voltage regulator and the generator,
the answer is that they are not actually used in starting the car.
The generator can't generate electricity while the engine is off, and
having checked the wiring diagram the starter is essentially connected
straight to the battery (via the starter relay). As the battery was
fully charged (or close) it seemed unlikely that the generator or
voltage regulator were failing. In changing the battery cables we did
discover that one of them was faulty. If it was moved the car
electrics stopped working.
Finally we replaced the starter motor (a surprisingly
straightforward job) with a rebuilt, exchange unit (with lifetime
warranty). And now the car starts every time. The only unneeded steps
were replacing the starter solenoid, but now I have a spare... :-)
So, thank you all for your advice and suggestions.
Adam
Stuart&Janet
( and as you say you have a spare) Enjoy. StuK
"Adam Morris" <adam....@providence.org> wrote in message
news:e32a411a.03062...@posting.google.com...