Help with 1990 Mustang LX 2.3 A4LD automatic
Lloyd Cimprich
the following questions that I hope this group could help with.
1. My transmission has a hose that leaks fluid, this hose goes up to the top
of the transmission to a point I cannot trace wen I have it up on the ramps.
I does not look like original equipment and appears to go in the general
area of the vent so I suspect the vent may be missing or damaged.
2. My oil pressure seems to move from the middle to 1/4 point on the gauge
for no apparent reason and with no sign of engine noise or other obvious
indicator of a problem. I have not checked connections but was wondering if
anyone has had similar problems.
TIA
difa...@hotmail.com
My oil gauge does the same thing and behaves erraticaly (is that a
word?) I think its either the sender unit or the guage itself.
Dima F.
1987 Mustang 2.3Lx
(remove 1987 from
e-mail to e-mailme)
Ed Nicholson
would have a vacuum hose attached to it ... if the diaphragm in the valve is
damaged you would get trans. fluid coming out of there ... you can get a new
one at Ford or at a parts store .... should only be about $20.00 ..... the
oil gauge probably needs a new engine sender ...without going through the
Ford diagnostics that's the easiest and cheapest thing to try ... should
only be about $10.00 .... I think if you ground out the wire going to the
oil sender your gauge should go to max., if so, then your gauge is OK
fast Ed N.
95 T-Bird SC 5 spd 1 of 574
68 Cougar 289 EFI restomod
<difa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3a10cd62...@news.gate.net...
Lloyd Cimprich
least I am more confident I do not have a mechanical problem.
Thanks.
difa...@hotmail.com
<fastednSP...@netcom.ca> wrote:
>there is a piece on the side of the trans. called a modulator vale that
>would have a vacuum hose attached to it ... if the diaphragm in the valve is
>damaged you would get trans. fluid coming out of there ... you can get a new
>one at Ford or at a parts store .... should only be about $20.00 ..... the
>oil gauge probably needs a new engine sender ...without going through the
>Ford diagnostics that's the easiest and cheapest thing to try ... should
>only be about $10.00 .... I think if you ground out the wire going to the
>oil sender your gauge should go to max., if so, then your gauge is OK
Where is the oil sender on the 4 cylinders. I was looking through the
chiltons manual and could not trace it back to the engine.
Mike R
Dima
The 2.3L uses an oil pressure switch and *not* a variable oil pressure sender
like the 5.0L has. The switch is located at the left hand rear of the engine
below the valve cover. The switch is open when there is little to no oil
pressure and closes when the oil pressure rises to a determined threshold
point. To prevent full deflection of the needle indicator, the 2.3L versions
use a 20 ohm current limiter resistor to yield normal guage readings.
HTH
Mike (Springfield, Va)
93 Cobra Stock
SCOA Member
Lloyd Cimprich
heater hose and comes down on the drivers side from somewhere way up top
between the trans case and the floor pan. This hose does not to be original
equipment and for now I am assuming it is in some connected to the breather
which is likely missing/faulty. If no one else has heard of such a hose on
an A4LD then I will have to lower trans so I can get a good look.
Thanks
Ed Nicholson <fastednSP...@netcom.ca> wrote in message
news:17oQ5.98323$YG5....@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
Lloyd Cimprich
2.3?
Thanks.
difa...@hotmail.com
>
>The 2.3L uses an oil pressure switch and *not* a variable oil pressure sender
>below the valve cover. The switch is open when there is little to no oil
>pressure and closes when the oil pressure rises to a determined threshold
>point. To prevent full deflection of the needle indicator, the 2.3L versions
>use a 20 ohm current limiter resistor to yield normal guage readings.
>
I did find the "sender unit" or the "switch" as you call it. It does
look like the one in the book and I think it is the sender unit. I
stopped by Discount Auto today and told them that I was looking for an
oil sender unit for an '87 Mustang 4-cylinder and the guy pulled it
right out and the thing of course looked like the one on my car. It
looks like a small cylinder thing, like a fuel filter, only smaller.
$10 bucks he said. I did not get it because i want to make sure its
the sender and not the gauge itself. So, what do I do know? Ground the
wire going from the sender to the gauge and if its goes all the way up
its in working order?
Also, I was looking through all those oil, trasmission,
water/antifreeze, fuel/injector cleaners and additives, some brand
name and others dirt cheap. So my question is has anybody tried these?
Are they any good? If you gotten good results from these products,
please post the complete name of the product and brand.
Thanks everybody,
Mike R
In article <8v22et$4ta$1...@news.eol.ca>, "Lloyd wrote:
>Is it possible to remove the 20 ohm resistor and put a 5.0 type sender in my
>2.3?
>
>Thanks.
>> The 2.3L uses an oil pressure switch and *not* a variable oil pressure
>sender
>> like the 5.0L has. >
Probably depends whether the physical mounting between the two senders are the
same or not and whether the calibration range becomes an issue (for guage
accuracy) between the two different engines. You could remove yours and take it
to an auto parts store, physically compare it with the 5.0L sender and go from
there. If the mounting is the same, it might work. Maybe someone else from the
NG has previously investigated the changing to a different sender type.
Mike R
>>
>>The 2.3L uses an oil pressure switch and *not* a variable oil pressure sender
>>like the 5.0L has. The switch is located at the left hand rear of the engine
>>below the valve cover. The switch is open when there is little to no oil
>>pressure and closes when the oil pressure rises to a determined threshold
>>point. To prevent full deflection of the needle indicator, the 2.3L versions
>>use a 20 ohm current limiter resistor to yield normal guage readings.
>>
>
>
>I did find the "sender unit" or the "switch" as you call it. It does
>look like the one in the book and I think it is the sender unit. I
>stopped by Discount Auto today and told them that I was looking for an
>oil sender unit for an '87 Mustang 4-cylinder and the guy pulled it
>right out and the thing of course looked like the one on my car. It
>looks like a small cylinder thing, like a fuel filter, only smaller.
>$10 bucks he said. I did not get it because i want to make sure its
>the sender and not the gauge itself. So, what do I do know? Ground the
>wire going from the sender to the gauge and if its goes all the way up
>its in working order?
>Thanks everybody,
>
>Dima F.
>1987 Mustang 2.3Lx
>
>(remove 1987 from
>e-mail to e-mailme)
With th KOEO (key on, engine off) you can remove the wire from the pressure
switch, ground it and the guage indicator should yield a normal oil pressure
reading, but not full scale deflection. If the 20 ohm resistor was bypassed
with a jumper wire, than you would see full deflection because of the increased
current flow through the guage to ground. Basically grounding the wire is the
exact function your oil pressure switch does. If the guage reads normal under
this test, than it's probably ok. You could go out of your way and take it one
step further by temporarily rigging the wire to ground (with a good solid
connection) and drive the car a while. If the guage initially tested ok but now
starts to act up again while driving, then I would suspect, due to vibration,
an intermittent wire connection to the guage or the guage itself. If the
reading holds steady after driving around, then you can rest assured that the
guage and connections are good. But for $10.00, it's worth just replacing the
oil pressure switch if the wire grounding test shows the guage to be working
correctly. I'm sure you'd rather replace the oil pressure switch than the
guage, right?