recommendations for a '66 cabrio
Michael Szoenyi
Had a good look at a 66 Mustang V8 cabriolet and am not too sure about a few
points with the car:
VIN is 6T08C221375
Body 76A, Col.0, Trim 27, Date 11C, DSO13, Axle (none) and Trans F1
So this is actually a vintage 66 Mustang Cabriolet in Aqua trim, three speed
manual and V8 2V engine built at the New Jersey Plant IIRC. This is so far
okay but:
This car is advertised to have 275 hp and the true Hi.Po. Engine had these
271 hp and has got the big blue air filter. So I'm not too sure what is
correct here.
2nd the car has a 200 kmph speedometer but was originally built for the U.S.
market and not for Europe export, so this feature can't be called "in
original state" as the dealer would like, I guess.
Engine and car is technically fine but has got a few minor dings and rust
parts, the right door is missing the spring and the roof is not folding down
properly. The dealer is asking (on behalf of a private customer, ah indeed)
35'000 bucks CHF (Swiss) which is way too high in my view.
Any help and comments very appreciated, thank you!
BTW: To start the car we had to jump the battery... the dealer connected
plus pole to plus pole and minus pole to minus pole and I quickly stepped
back and had then a good argument with the guy. How do you actually connect
to batteries? I wouldn't do that this way :-)
Mike
--
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Garth Almgren
>
> Engine and car is technically fine but has got a few minor dings and rust
> parts, the right door is missing the spring and the roof is not folding down
> properly. The dealer is asking (on behalf of a private customer, ah indeed)
> 35'000 bucks CHF (Swiss) which is way too high in my view.
Almost $20,600 (USD, current exchange) IMO is too high for the condition
you are looking at. It may be different for you, but here in the US, for
that amount, I would expect a car that you could show off at a car show.
>
> Any help and comments very appreciated, thank you!
>
> BTW: To start the car we had to jump the battery... the dealer connected
> plus pole to plus pole and minus pole to minus pole and I quickly stepped
> back and had then a good argument with the guy. How do you actually connect
> to batteries? I wouldn't do that this way :-)
>
Technically, you're supposed to connect positive to positive and
negative to a well grounded chunk of metal (I usually use a radiator
support). This is to avoid having sparks near the battery, as there is a
potential for battery vapors to explode. The chances of explosion are
very low, though.
--
~/Garth
'83 V6 GL Hatch (AKA V6stang)
http://www.v6stang.com/v6stang/
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/v6stang
Michael Szoenyi
> Almost $20,600 (USD, current exchange) IMO is too high for the condition
> you are looking at. It may be different for you, but here in the US, for
> that amount, I would expect a car that you could show off at a car show.
Definitely true.. or a more rare car like a Shelby or similar.
> Technically, you're supposed to connect positive to positive and
> negative to a well grounded chunk of metal (I usually use a radiator
> support).
If I recall correctly, the real electricity i.e. the electron transport is
from plus to plus pole. The physicians worked with electricity before the
electrons were found by chemistry and they just had to define a power
transport and they chose - per definitionem - plus. It was only later that
they discovered the negative charge of electrons. The charge is still
transferred to the kathodes.
I'm glad that you'd do it the way described above - that's how I regularly
do it as well and it always worked :-)
>This is to avoid having sparks near the battery, as there is a
> potential for battery vapors to explode. The chances of explosion are
> very low, though.
Yes, sure. But still. A car vendor should know and now jump at me if I tell
him... And there were considerable sparks around.
Bill S.
Let's see, roughly $20,500(US Funds) for a semi rusty, non original
1966 Mustang convertible.......I think not........Let's start with the
basics, the "C" in your vehicle identification number is a standard 289
2V (meaning a 2 barrel carburetor).....Next is the "Export only"
Kilometer reading speedometer, which as you stated is not correct...The
top not folding down could mean a leaking power top cylinder, or a bad
pump (if it has a power top), if not, then the convertible top frame
could be rusty, and in need of replacement. Finally, rust, any rust in
an overseas car can only mean trouble, and an expensive trip to the body
shop (parts, shipping, etc. is extra)........I would pass on that one if
I was in your shoes...........Especially for the money they want for
it..........hell, you could buy my 66 convertible (rust free, with very
few modifications from stock) for $15,000 (US FUNDS)
http://bills2.freeservers.com/91.html
, put the new top on it (less than $1,000 US FUNDS or less), pay import
duty and shipping( I have vast experience with this):
http://www.seaexpo.com/
And still be way ahead of the game by at least $2,000-$3,000(US
FUNDS).........Plus, you could be driving the car as soon as it is
offloaded from the ship...................Buy mine, or don't, but do not
buy the one you looked at locally...............That is for
certain...............
Finally, the positive to positive, and the negative to negative works
fine, but I prefer to ground out my negative cable to the block or
unibody on at least one side of the equation........
Hope you find this helpful.........
Yours in Fords,
Bill S.
Michael Szoenyi
> shop (parts, shipping, etc. is extra)........I would pass on that one if
> I was in your shoes...........Especially for the money they want for
> it..........hell, you could buy my 66 convertible (rust free, with very
> few modifications from stock) for $15,000 (US FUNDS)
Sure, you are perfectly right. I actually was not deeply interested in
buying this car but getting some "experience" on the model... And so I guess
my impressions are not too wrong, given what "the expert" has just told me.
> http://bills2.freeservers.com/91.html
> , put the new top on it (less than $1,000 US FUNDS or less), pay import
> duty and shipping( I have vast experience with this):
> http://www.seaexpo.com/
I have seen your car and I even would prefer the specs... but I guess I'd
wait a little longer anyway, but then probably it does make more sense to
buy in the US and to ship it.
> Finally, the positive to positive, and the negative to negative works
> fine, but I prefer to ground out my negative cable to the block or
> unibody on at least one side of the equation........
Sure the positive-positive/negative-negative works in the sense of getting
the energy. An exploding battery gives you the energy as well :-)
No I guess we're on the same point of view.
Thank you for your help
Mike
Stuart@work
"proper" load.
+ to - an - to + is two batteries "shorting" each other with virtually
no resistence "loading" the circuit. If you know your Ohms law....
smoking,burning etc. will ensue....StuK
"Michael Szoenyi" <msz...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<a4s153$2od00$1...@ID-34760.news.dfncis.de>...
> Thanks Gary for your reply
>