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'67 Mustang Steering column removal.. How to?

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Steve Kent

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Aug 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM8/26/98
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Does anyone know, I mean _really_ know how to remove the steering column from
a '67 Mustang? This is the type of steering column _without_ the rag U joint
like the '68's and later have. I removed the bolts from under the dash and
that was it, I could only flop the column around a little, but it would not
pull out... Is there a nut on the steering box that needs to be removed or do
I need to pull the steering wheel with a wheel puller and disassemble the
driver's end of the column? If you have done this with your own two hands,
please let me know. Speculators need not reply....

Regards,
Steve


Keller, Michael

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Aug 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM8/26/98
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---

Disconnect all the wiring from the column. If there are bolts at the
toe board holding the column tube to the firewall/toe board area you'll
also need to remove them. Disassemble the horn button and related parts
to gain access to the nut retaining the steering wheel. Remove the
steering wheel (with a puller if needed). Slide the column tube off
steering shaft. The steering input shaft on most '67s is solid like
yours and an integral part of the steering box. If you need the shaft
out of the way you'll also need to remove the steering box. To remove
the box you'll need to borrow or purchace a pitman arm puller. Use the
puller to disconnect the pitman arm from the center link (or control
valve if you have PS) and remove the three bolts that hold the box on
the frame of the car. Depending on engine and exhaust equipment, you may
have to raise the motor off its mounts to have enough room to be able to
remove the box from the car. The bolt-in crossmember may also have to be
removed to gain room for the box and long shaft. While the box is out of
the car I STRONGLY recommend that the box be rebuilt or replaced. If the
box has never been touched then there's a 100% chance that the lube is
shot. There may also be moisture in the box and the bearings/races or
other internal components have pitting, scoring, or excessive wear.
Parts for these boxes (depending on if the sector shaft is 1" or 1-1/8"
can be difficult and expensive to obtain. Consider exchanging the box
for a rebuilt/remanufactured one. Atleast check this one out and replace
the lube prior to reinstalling it.

BTW - Most "speculators" that frequent this NG would have had this
figured out already. Early Mustangs are very simple cars. Purchase a
service manual. It will make your life alot easier.

Good luck with it.

-Mike.

Steve Kent

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Aug 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM8/26/98
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In article <35E3A516...@aleis14.kp.kodak.com>,
kel...@aleis14.kp.kodak.com says...

Both of the service manuals that I have do not even address the steering column
correctly. It makes reference to the flex coupling found in the '68 and later
cars.

Steve


CATsysop

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Sep 1, 1998, 3:00:00 AM9/1/98
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>
>Both of the service manuals that I have do not even address the steering
>column
>correctly. It makes reference to the flex coupling found in the '68 and
>later
>cars.
>
>Steve

If you don't have a subscription to Mustang Monthly, I urge you to get one.
They just had an article this summer on steering gearboxes. They have several
good vintage and late model tech articles, and are an excellent source of
information. Just my $.02 woth.

Tom
'70 Mustang Convertible 302cid
'84 Cougar 3.8L
'95 Ranger SuperCab 3.0L
'94 E250 Cargo Van 5.8L

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