'98 Explorer V8 Spark Plug Replacement?

[Steven Hilgendorf]

This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or
advice, on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98
Explorer V8? Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job easier?

TIA,

Steven

[Xx]

That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on the side
of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can be done with the
tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire out of the way. I
recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's side since when you remove
the spark plug wire on one of the front wires, you end up gouging your hand.
Now is a good time to replace the wires if needed.

"Steven Hilgendorf" <stev...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:QkJ5h.15080$vJ.1...@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...

[Happy Traveler]

Done it a couple times on mine - same year, same engine. Definitely go
through the wheel well. Only the rubber skirts had to come off. If memory
serves, turning the wheel from side to side as you go from front to back
helps, but that's it - no reason to take the wheels off. Actually, this is
one of the easiest engines to change plugs that I have seen.
If you are buying platinum plugs, make sure that they are 'double platinum'
(meaning that the platinum plating is on both electrodes). That's because
this engine fires with positive voltage on one side of the block and
negative on the other.
For whatever reason, the wires on this vehicle are notorious for early
failures, so I would second the suggestion to change them, especially if
they are over 50,000 miles old. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust
manifold (Motorcraft wires come with heat shields on those that are close --
don't know about the other brands).

[Steven Hilgendorf]

Thank you Xx and Happy Traveler. I will inspect the wires thoroughly
during the plug replacement. My owners manual recommends Motorcraft
AWSF32EE spark plugs for replacement, however all I can seem to locate
locally are Motorcraft SP432 spark plugs. Are these the same plugs,
double platinum?

Thanks again,

Steven

Xx wrote:
>> That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on
>> the side of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can
>> be done with the tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire
>> out of the way. I recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's
>> side since when you remove the spark plug wire on one of the front
>> wires, you end up gouging your hand. Now is a good time to replace
>> the wires if needed.

[oklaman]

somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's
were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.

my 2000 V8 will be needing plugs before too long. now has 79000 miles and
runs well. will the 2000 V8 be similar to the 98 V8??

should you use anti-seize when replacing plugs?

"Happy Traveler" <happy_t...@abc.net> wrote in message
news:x5idnWA0SbckuMXY...@comcast.com...

[Happy Traveler]

Not an expert on Motorcraft plugs, but those don't seem to be platinum at
all. Which doesn't mean that they are bad - platinum buys you longevity, not
much else. Search this group for old wars about plugs, and you will find a
lot of information - and a lot of disagreement...
As for wires, I seriously doubt that visual inspection will reveal anything.
Perhaps under a microscope... The two that failed on me looked just perfect.
Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile, because
it's typically the conductor that fails. The usual failure mode is breakdown
of the insulation in some weak spot (probably a manufacturing defect),
causing arcing to the nearest metal. Some can see that in the dark. I happen
to have an oscilloscope, so that's what I use, but this is certainly an
overkill for the average shade tree mechanic.

"Steven Hilgendorf" <stev...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message

news:1D%5h.93225$yd7....@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...

[Steven Hilgendorf]

HT, after some more research I found out that the SP432 (AGSF32FM) are
the correct NEW plugs recommended by Ford to replace the AWSF32EE. It
seems the AGSF32FM (SP432) is a new Motorcraft Fine-Wire Platinum plug.

Steven

[Happy Traveler]

The FM suffix appears to indicate platinum-plated center wire and
nickel-plated outside electrode (i.e single plat -- which is fine for COP
systems, but not for the older double-ended coil systems). Oh well, the last
thing I wanted to start is yet another spark plug war. Perhaps someone in
the know will enlighten us about those confusing Motorcraft/Ford
designations.

>> HT, after some more research I found out that the SP432 (AGSF32FM) are
>> the correct NEW plugs recommended by Ford to replace the AWSF32EE. It
>> seems the AGSF32FM (SP432) is a new Motorcraft Fine-Wire Platinum plug.

By the way, I found a typo in my advice about wires. Meant to say:
".... Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile,
because it's typically NOT the center conductor that fails...."

[Steven Hilgendorf]

Hello HT, thanks again for your advice/recommendations. Since I started
this thread I've done some searching for answers on this spark plug
issue because I wanted to get the correct, recommended, replacement
plugs. Phoning my local Ford parts dealership gave me new Ford
Motorcraft part number, AGSF32FM, and searching the net gave me
information, and controversies, surrounding the replacement Fine-Wire
platinum plugs for the original single/double-platinum plugs.

Another weird thing about the replacement plugs is that the threads are
longer, which appears as if the plug will seat further into the
cylinder. Here is a site that notes the differences of the plugs:

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/SparkPlugChanges.htm

In addition, I am going to price a set of Motorcraft wires and will most
likely change them at the same time too.

Steven

[Happy Traveler]

Steven,

If you look at the photographs in your reference, the distance from the
seating taper to the tip of the plug is the same for both types. Thus they
reach exactly to the same depth inside the chamber (I would be really
concerned about sticking in a plug that reaches longer than the original -
for a variety of reasons, including colliding with the piston at TDC). The
difference is that one is fully threaded, while the other is not. The fully
threaded one may be able to engage one or two more threads and help a bit
to prevent stripped threads by those who do not believe in torque
wrenches -- especially on aluminum heads (which luckily, our ancient 302
engines do not have...)

"Steven Hilgendorf" <stev...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message

news:n_G6h.13991$fh.1...@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...

[Steven Hilgendorf]

You're right, I stand corrected. The new plug is just fully threaded
and does not seat further into the cylinder, just threads further into
the block.

I did change the plugs and the pricey wires (~$216.00), turns out
removing the wheels and fender apron flaps made the job easy, thanks for
the tip. The hardest part was routing the wires. It seems to be
running perfect, though it run fine before the maintenance too.

Thanks again,

Steven

[car...@egine.com]

oklaman wrote:
> somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's
> were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.
>

The reason double platinums are used on some engines is because the the
ignition system fires the spark with a negative voltage on half of the
cylinders and a positive voltage on the others. If you used single
platinum plugs, you'd have to get two kinds of plugs and install them
in the correct cylinders.

The double platinums cost a little more, but allow you to use the same
plug in all cylinders.

So you're right- the double platinums are not "better" and do cost
more, but just make the job simpler.
-Paul

[oklaman]

thanks Paul. A very good answer.
<car...@egine.com> wrote in message
news:1163794233....@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

[Dawn]

replying to Steven Hilgendorf, Dawn wrote:
Having trouble getting last plug out because heat shield

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