Cleaning inside the Instrument Cluster
Scott M. Kertes
find them. The inside of my 97 Sport's instrument panel is dirty. I want to
access the back of the plexi-glass as well as the face of the guages and
clean it all up. I had the dash almost completely apart this past weekend,
and what stumped me is that it appears the plexi-glass panel cover is either
glued or heat-treated right to the instrument panel, making it impossible to
remove.
Can anyone shed some light on how to get past this and accomplsh my task?
The amount of dirt, smears and subsequent distortion behind that plexi-glass
is unacceptable to me, and I know that this can be remedied. I just can't
figure out how!!
Thanks,
Scott
hart...@webspan.net
Dan
there are about 4 to 5 screws that hold the entire cluster in place that I
removed. There are 3 wiring harnesses on the back that you must unplug to
remove the whole unit. Once removed you can remove the plexiglass with ~5
torx screws and clean everything. The hardest part is taking all the other
panels off to get to the cluster. Good luck!
Dan
Scott M. Kertes wrote in message <7c3gh1$pgf$1...@remarQ.com>...
Scott Kertes
Once removed you can remove the plexiglass with ~5
>torx screws >
Thanks for the advice Dan! One question though, and forgive me if it is a
stupid one: What exactly is/are these 5 torx screws? Do I need a special
tool for them? Please forgive my ignorance!!!
Rob
> Dennis Fowler wrote:
>
> > Well I bit the bullet, and following some pointers from others, managed
> > to get all the fingerprints and dust removed from the inside of the
> > instrument cluster cover.
> >
> > I have included a step-by-step (or blow-by-blow) procedure from my
> > ordeal for anyone who needs to do it:
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > '97 Explorer Instrument Cluster Cover Removal
> >
> > Tools needed:
> > 1/4" drive set with:
> > ratchet
> > straight handle
> > 6" extension
> > 9/32" socket
> > 5/16" socket
> > T-15 Torx bit
> > small straight blade screwdriver
> > medium straight blade screwdriver
> > several Band-Aids (lots of sharp sheet metal around)
> >
> > Procedure:
> >
> > 1. Remove (2) 9/32 screws from radio/HVAC cluster above HVAC controls.
> >
> > 2. Pull HVAC cluster out to limit of wiring harnesses.
> >
> > 3. Remove (2) 9/32 screws from under lower trim panel below steering
> > column.
> >
> > 4. Remove (2) 9/32 screws from hood release assembly.
> >
> > 5. Remove lower trim panel from under steering column and set aside.
> >
> > 6. Remove (7) 5/16 bolts from anti-submarine plate below steering
> > column and set aside.
> >
> > 7. Remove (3) 9/32 screws from underside of cowl over instrument
> > cluster.
> >
> > 8. Remove (2) 9/32 screws from lower edge of upper trim panel on
either
> > side of steering column.
> >
> > 9. Lower tilt wheel as far as it will go.
> >
> > 10. Pull upper trim panel out from dash (spring clips from holes).
> >
> > 11. Remove connector from headlight switch - use small straight blade
> > screwdriver to help release the latches (one on each side).
> >
> > 12. Remove connector from dimmer switch - use medium straight blade
> > screwdriver to help release the latch (one latch on right side).
> >
> > 13. Put key in ignition, move one notch toward start position, put
> > foot on brake pedal and move shift lever to Lo (1).
> >
> > 14. Remove upper trim panel - a bit tough, have to wrestle it out.
> >
> > 15. Return shift lever to Park and remove key (unless you want to
> > hear the ding-ding all the time).
> >
> > 16. Remove (3) T-15 Torx screws from top of instrument cluster.
> >
> > 17. Remove (4) 9/32 screws holding instrument cluster in dash.
> >
> > 18. Remove (4) T-15 Torx screws from lower part of instrument
> > cluster - helps to pull cluster forward and tilted upwards.
> >
> > 19. Remove instrument cluster cover.
> >
> > 20. Clean cover using whatever - I used Windex with a Handiwipe
> > on the inside and polished the outside using Meguiar's Plastic
> > Polish and a soft cotton cloth to remove the scratches - note
> > the clear plastic is very soft and will scratch with even a
> > moderately rough paper towel. Remove any dust from gauge faces
> > using a slightly damp Q-tip and/or canned air (stay at least
> > 12" away).
> >
> > To re-assemble, repeat steps 19 to 1. You may have to use your fingers
> > to get the spring clips to line up with the holes as you re-install the
> > trim pieces. The connectors for the dimmer module and the light switch
> > are somewhat of a bear to re-connect - just be careful not to mash the
> > wires as you push them on.
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Denny
In article <367D2835...@worldnet.att.net>,
dr.a.gr...@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> How did you get fingerprints inside the cover? You must have a lot of
free
> time to do what you posted.
>
> Andy
The fingerprints/dust were there from day one. Just finally got to me.
The actual procedure only takes about half an hour once you've gone
though it. And no, I don't have a lot of time on my hands, at least
not as much as Dr. Bob ;-)
Denny
Mark Condor
Chances are also pretty good that you will have to violate the
"federal odometer seal" (Done it before so I'm not picky, but
just FYI. . .)
Mark
M a r t i n i
::
::Once removed you can remove the plexiglass with ~5
::
It is another type of screw. Like flathead or phillips, but different. You
need a Torx wrench. Available at any home depot. Get the kind with different
sizes.
--
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Scott M. Kertes
this will be my weekend project.
Rob wrote in message <7c52gq$6...@journal.concentric.net>...
:I saved this for future reference when it was originally posted....
:
:
:
:
Dennis Fowler
all the stuff I've garnered.
Feel free to email if it isn't as clear as I thought it was.
Denny
In article <7c5v60$qf1$1...@remarQ.com>, "Scott M. Kertes"