'95 Explorer - OBD-I Trouble Codes and CEL
7Triple7
probably over-analyzed this problem, but can't really afford to leave it to
the dealer to locate the problem.
Today, the Check Engine Light came on for the first time on our 1995 EB,
with 100K miles. The vehicle runs great...no noticable driveability
problems, whatsoever. I suspect it's either an O2 sensor or possibly the
EGR valve.
I had the codes pulled at Pep Boys tonight. Some of the codes don't make
any sense. If anyone has any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated!
Here's a copy of the print out from PB:
---------------VT-100 Live Data -----------------
REVIEW CODES:
** KEY ON, ENGINE OF CODES - FIX FIRST **
135 CODE DEFINITION NOT AVAILABLE
533 DATA COM LINK OR INSTRUMENT CKT FAIL
** ENGINE RUNNING CODES - FIX SECOND **
326 EGR (PFE/DPFE) SIGNAL TOO LOW
536 CODE DEFINITION NOT AVAILABLE
632 TRANS CTRL SWITCH-NO STATE CHANGE
*** END OF LIST ***
I cross referenced these codes with the OBD-I listing in the Haynes manual.
- 135 = Is not included in the Haynes OBD-I list....any ideas as to what it
is? I want to believe that it is somehow associated with codes 136 and
137...both Heated O2 Sensor, Left Side codes.
- 533 = I have no idea what this code is. It's not in the Haynes book
either. I'm beginning to wonder if the tester at PB was compatible with the
1995 OBD-I ECCS. Any comments?
- 326 = Here's one of the possible EGR codes I was expecting. BUT...it's
not even listed in the Haynes manual. I don't get it....the closests Haynes
listed code to that of Pep Boys is 327 - EGR Valve Pressure
Transducer/Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage.
- 536 = Another un-identified PB code. According to Haynes, this code is
the Brake On/Off (BOO) Circuit Failure/Not Activated During the KOER. What
the hell is this all about? All the brake lights are working....brakes
working....no idiot light....what gives?
-632 = This code is really the only one that agreed with the Haynes manual.
OK....I got to looking at the codes PB vs. Haynes. The only thing that
really makes sense to me is that the codes pulled by the tester at Pep Boys
is shifted by one....if you do this you get the following. Please bear with
me as this is going to look really strange.
PBCode/HaynesCode/PBCode+1=Haynes Description
----------------------------------------------------------
135/None/136 = Heated O2 Sensor Indicates Lean Condition, Left Side
(I checked the oil to verify sufficient fluid
level...right
where it should be. I did notice, however, that
the oil
smelled like it may have a little gasoline in it.
Last
oil change 1500 miles ago. If the O2 sensor was
indicating
a false lean condition, would it cause the PCM to
over
compensate by adding more fuel....inadvertently
causing
a rich running condition.)
*533/None/534 = No entry for this code in the Haynes manual
(Next Code 536 = BOO Circuit Failure)
326/None/327 = EGR Valve Pressure Transducer/Position Sensor
Circuit Above Max Voltage
536/536/537 = No entry for this code in the Haynes Manual
(As mentioned above...there has been no indication
of any physical problems with any brake component.
The next code is 538 = Insuficient Change in RPM
or Operator Error, hmmmm, think PB screwed up?)
632/632/633 = 4x4L Switch Closed During KOEO
(WHOA!!!! When I first purchased this vehicle I was
playing around with the 4x4 selector and got it into
4L
and could not get it to disengage. It finally
kicked out
and went back to 2H. Could this code have been
stored back in March when I bought the truck? The
633 code makes a lot more sense than the 632 code,
especially since I've actually experienced a 4L
prob.)
If anyone has any ideas...please feel free to chime in!
Thanx,
777
7Triple7
the trouble codes.
Any ideas why the codes could not be cleared?
777
Del Harris
On my 96 Explorer and F150 I have an OBD II computer. To reset
the codes on this computer one can just disconnect one
of the battery terminal for about a five minutes.
I typically now though use a diagnostic program on my Laptop I
purchased a couple of years ago. The tool is made by a company
called EASE diagnostic, in which I'm able to achieve excellent
code analysis and code decryption and if needed real time sensor
monitoring. If requested it will give me a complete sensor
readout snapshot when the error or each errors condition occurred.
Ease has many diagnostic packages, I bought the more expensive
package at about $275.00 two years ago (With free yearly up-grades).
I've gotten my money back many times over with this tool on the
simple repairs. This package has the ability to reset all codes
with no problem. Most of the time I read the code, and if the code
is not a fatal code, I will reset the computer and verify if the
code was a fluke. Many times they are and the dealer gets to charge
nicely for those.
I'm not sure if the OBD1 computer uses Nonvolatile storage for the
codes, but try pulling the battery terminal and see if they reset.
You have so many unrelated codes set and no idea when they occurred.
If the car is performing well, I would take a chance and reset them
and wait and see if their real.
Del
jgholt
HIS EQUIPMENT)...
632 - is likely due to operator error. What the Haynes manual DOESN'T say
is that when you do the little circus act (goose the throttle, sweep the
steering wheel, stand on your head, recite the alphabet backwards) that is
required for the engine diagnostic, you must also cycle the O/D cancel
switch. If you don't do this, the 632 error code appears, just saying it
didn't change states (switch). Likely cause, nothing to get excited about.
326 - I would venture to guess this means your EGR valve (sensor?) is bad -
and likely needs replacing. If you're inclined, you can test it with a
multimeter and see if it's getting (and sending) the voltage it needs. Of
course I've never done this, but this is speculation for most archaic
electronics.
The other ones sound a bit erratic, not sure. But I think 533 could be a
byproduct of Microsoft - so you may watch your dashboard for a blue screen
of death! ;)
Cheers,
JH
95 EB - 175K miles
Houghton, MI
"7Triple7" <seven-mi...@worldwide.com> wrote in message
news:3d6c2bc9$0$8610$9a6e...@news.newshosting.com...
7Triple7
I took my miscreant Explorer to Autozone for a free diagnostic test
yesterday. The guy used just a simple code scanner...blinking light and a
few beeps. A single code came up...335 - EGR Valve Voltage Out of Range. I
asked the guy to clear the code....no problem.
I also went back to Pep Boys and told them they were full of crap and went
over their codes with the store manager. He felt they were also full of
crap and gave me my $40 back :-)
So...I'm gonna order a new EGR valve and see where it goes.
I wasn't having any drivability problems until just last night....seems to
be missing a bit. Is this a possible EGR failure indicator? or could my
troubles be deeper?
Thanx
777
7Triple7
335 - EGR Valve Voltage Out of Range
I replaced the PFE sensor and pressure regulator....all seems to be fine!
"7Triple7" <seven-mi...@worldwide.com> wrote in message
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Sam
EGR(bitch to get out)valve and replaced the Differential Pressure
Switch thingy that two exhaust lines connect to to monitor the
pressure difference on the exhaust pipe going to the egr valve.
Anyway...$35 EGR Valve and $127 for the switch from FORD.
No more "check engine light" yippee !!!
I know how excited you are as I am too. Especially when I think about
all the money I saved on labor and parts markup plug not putting
myself in a position to be ripped off by dishonest and/or
non-qualified mechanics.
Good luck!
-Sam Cederas
Raleigh, N.C.
7Triple7
dealership. The pressure regulator was $35. I did not replace the actual
EGR...figured I got for the easy fix first! It took all of about 5 minutes
to do. The PFE had a lot of oxidation built up around the hose nipples.
The pressure regulator also seemed to be pretty nasty looking.
According to the dealership...the PFE is a pretty common failure item.
In the future..you may try www.expressautoparts.com, they have the 94 PFE:
OEM#F48E-9J460-BAV-BB $90.50/each KEM Brand
OEM#E6AE-9J460A1A/E6AZ-9J460A/F0DZ-9J460A $69.53/each TOMCO Brand
I could've gotten the PFE for my truck for only $12.00!!!! but we really
couldn't wait and after a discount, I ended up paying a few bucks over Ford
cost. I figure what I saved on labor, I could justify the slightly higher
price for a genuine Ford part.
777
"Sam" <no...@nunya.com> wrote in message
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