rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 4/6
Dr. David Zatz
Posting-Frequency: 365 days
Last-modified: 2009/1/25
Version: 4.3
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DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any
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the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a
FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made
without the permission of the maintainer.
The maintainer, David Zatz, works at http://www.toolpack.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - -
PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions
There is a separate Neon FAQ.
Also see:
Part 3 - Classic cars
Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff
Part 6 - Other stuff
* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean
the battery terminals and cables first!
* If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat,
purge the system of air bubbles.
* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
the web site at http://www.allpar.com/
** Index **
Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the "search"
or "find" feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries.
We have eliminated some relatively uncommon entries.
1. Stall/hesitation/sag
2. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
*** (see also #28 and other items)
3. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting
4. Cold / freezing weather problems
5. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
/ icing of carburetor and other parts
6. Magnum V-6 engine problems
7. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
8. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
9. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
10. Jeep 4.0 stalling
11. Power loss or gas mileage loss (2.2 / 2.5 engines)
12. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability
1. Stall, hesitation, or sag
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/ for full diagnostics
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting
Chrysler four-speed automatic transmissions tend to make a
buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting gears or pulling to a stop. This
noise is normal and comes from the solenoids. It is most noticeable from
outside the car. A continuous buzz or whine could indicate low fluid or a
bad pump, but a fair bit of noise is normal and you can find it, to one
degree or another, on anything from an Acclaim to a brand new Town &
Country.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Fast idle on startup
(Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products.
The throttle body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot
restarts; during a hot restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for the
first 10 seconds only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10
seconds during a hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Cold weather problems
Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling) for older 2.2 and 2.5 liter
four cylinder cars:
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60 and
65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the tailpipe.
The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the intake air
enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the factory. The
kit is not expensive.
---
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes up
from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine, and hard
to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum actuator in
the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working. In cold
weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air flow
through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
---
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the hose
that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position it
somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold air
from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Magnum V-6 engine problems
Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
accelerate.
It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running
fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed,
under mild acceleration.
David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors,
causing intermittent missing.
Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
>After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point
>where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the
>gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe.
With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right
over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine
heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a
lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor
to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch
------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.
The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a
tight enough fit.
Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. The pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (dotto)
First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get
loose. One TSB
involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel)
to the right strut
tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck
open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased"
distributer, and "fixed" to some degree.
...
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
"single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.
The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is
not changed by this
problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor "phase" is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).
The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
--------------------------------------------
11. Power loss or gas mileage loss (2.2 / 2.5 engines)
Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo,
with some improvement in each case.
--------------------------------------------
12. Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6
(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted
loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section
around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight
section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I try to get the wire
as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect of
preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold
running problem. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum
wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is
very high. Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke
plate. During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and
the car starts right up.
-------------------------------------------
For more, visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/
Dr. David Zatz
Posting-Frequency: 90 days
Last-modified: 2009/1/24
Version: 4.9
This section is generally revised every 440 days.
IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to f...@allpar.com.
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, use the form at http://www.allpar.com/i/form.html
Thank you.
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DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz of allpar.com).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -
PART II
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... (removed)
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
***********************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.
2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.
3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.
***********************************************************************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
***********************************************************************
(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)
* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.
* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler sometimes
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally defensive; and they have a strange impression that all dealers
are wonderful and honest while most customers are scum. The Customer Center
reps
often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help; they
are not car people or particularly well paid. If all else fails, call back
and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!
* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.
* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.
* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
it helps to know who the good service writers are.]
* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!
* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.
* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.
* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is.
* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY (generally) WILL NOT. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).
* Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.
****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)
courtesy of http://www.acarplace.com/
* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.
1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.
* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.
* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
(buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.
* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.
*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
may not help anyone else, either).
* If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see
http://www.allpar.com/fix/surveys.html.
* If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.
************************************************************************
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?
ENGINES
2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
-- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly
-- make sure float level is adjusted well
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).
-- We've seen an aftermarket cap replacement that allows for use of
conventional, longer-life wires.
2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge and maintain the PCV system
TRANSMISSIONS
4-speed automatic
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer updated if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
-- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
breakdowns...
-- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
$100 and $2500!
BRAKES
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 4 years (or more).
-- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
***********************************************************
From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:
**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
Lots of info on most of these engines is at
http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html
* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
(some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)
4 cylinders
1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC -- Neon
2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)
2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
Neon 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4
----------------------------------
V-6:
2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
4.0* enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans, etc)
Chrysler-made V6 families are 2.7/3.2, 3.3/3.5/3.8, 3.9/318
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
There have been several performance boosts on 3.3, 3.5, and 3.8 engines
Coming in 2009: Phoenix V6 engines
(see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/phoenix-engines.html )
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)
2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer
----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES
(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler
Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads
The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.
----------------------------------
V-8s
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi* (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.1 Hemi* - SRT8 models
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird
----------------------------------
8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.
----------------------------------
Gary Howell clarifies:
** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
[There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html]
273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore
The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.
277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke
The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
except the oil
passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.
** Big Blocks **
There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html]
B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440
All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.
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NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS
(Courtesy Daniel Adams)
On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE):
4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic
There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
727, and a Mercedes-designed unit
62TE six-speed automatic is similar to the four-speed car automatics and
actually has seven forward speeds including a kickdown gear.
Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)
Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions.html
Dual clutch automatics:
http://www.allpar.com/corporate/auto-manual-transmission.html
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CAR BODY TYPES
Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
far too
many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
out of the
FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps)
http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive).
For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
Valiant, hence an A-body; later it
moved to a platform shared only with the Challenger (E-body). The New
Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several more...in one year sharing two
different bodies (not unlike the Stratus whose sedan and coupe versions
were built on totally different platforms, made by two different companies,
in the same years!). The Fury moved from C to B body in the late 1970s.
There are many others... cars were resized, transformed, dropped, and
brought back with the same names.