Plymouth Sundance /Dodge Shadow
Robert P. Agnew
><75600...@compuserve.com> wrote:
>>
>> "Robert P. Agnew" <rag...@islandnet.com> writes:
>>>Having purchased a used 1989 Plymouth Sundance, I am interested in determining if
>>>there have been any factory recalls which may have been missed by the previous
>>>owner.
>>>
>>advice from an owner ... stay away from that car. its nothing but trouble after it passes 130K Km.
>>
>>CDF
>
>That was not the case with our 87 Sundance. Continues to
>run just fine for my niece at 80K mi, and I believe there
>are others on this list with nearly 200K mi on theirs. Just
>like anything, you have to take a little care of it.
>
>Bob
>
Gents:
Thanks for the comments. We have had ours for two years now and my wife loves the
car. We have owned Dodge products for twenty years (I currently drive a 1978 3/4
ton club cab with a 360 on propane). The Sundance has 30,000 miles on it, and at
the rate we put on miles, it will be decades before it gets high miles.
My question is regarding factory recalls ... have there been any? I'll get my
mechanics to check if the repairs have been done to this car.
Rob
75600...@compuserve.com
robert...@ncsu.edu
That was not the case with our 87 Sundance. Continues to
Andre Roy
> mechanics to check if the repairs have been done to this car.
>
windshield on the driver's side.
The dealer will tell you if there are any outstanding recalls on the car
mar...@oanet.com
From val...@mordor.com
Date: 10 Dec 1994 11:11:19 GMT
From: val...@mordor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.chrysler, rec.autos.misc, rec.answers,
news.answers
Subject: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/4
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1994/12/05
Version: 1.3
FAQ For Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler
This FAQ is being maintained and expanded by David Zatz
(val...@mordor.com)
A Guide To The FAQs:
Part 1 - The Newsgroup and Related Resources (this one)
Part 2 - The Cars (Q&A) - including easy 2.2/2.5 engine modifications
Part 3 - Computer codes, acronyms, and list of engine sizes
Part 4 - Troubleshooting, all models, all years - always growing
Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list
Shadow/Sundance/Duster Modifications - separate FAQ, local to r.a.m.c.
PART I. THE NEWSGROUP AND RELATED RESOURCES.
- Related Resources:
To subscribe to the Neon mailing list, send the command
'subscribe'
in the body of a mail message to neon-r...@iastate.edu
There's a Neon page within the Dealernet web pages; it's at
http://www.dealernet.com/dodge/neon.html
There's another Neon page maintained by Steve Sheldon; it's
at http://www.public.iastate.edu:80/~sheldon
Used parts service (not tried by us):
http://www.teleport.com/~carparts or e-mail
carp...@teleport.com;
this service is NOT affiliated with CC or r.a.m.c. or the MML.
Commercial technical service bulletin / recall lookup service:
http://www.alldata.tsb.com
New car price service:
gopher://gopher.enews.com:1200/11/showroom/edmunds/dealers
(Thanks, TJ...@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca).
My own Auto Diagnostics Stack is focused on the older Chrysler
products (rear wheel drive).
The Mopar Mailing List is still very active and alive!
- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler
COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.
BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.
Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.
RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize their enjoyment of their
autos.
There is a successful Mopar Mailing List, but access is limited in
practice to those who know what a Mopar is and don't have limitations on
how much e-mail they can get.
Rec.autos.* are good groups, but, as in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners
need a forum where they feel unreservedly welcomed, and where they can
obtain esoteric information from involved people with similar
experiences and vehicles. A specialized group will also attract some
people who are specifically into Chrysler products but who do not
currently subscribe to rec.autos.*.
This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice, as
well.
In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find auto discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The popular press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is fairly poor.
Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
"ordinary American cars" (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble. (Mechanics may also take advantage of others'
experience).
I believe that CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough,
to deserve their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens
are. In addition, I believe that it is important for CC vehicle owners
to have a place to discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to
exchange detailed information and personal experiences, in a supportive
and positive atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant
and helpful as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have
been, while making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep,
Eagle, and Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is. I
also hope to reach those who do not have a general interest in cars
which would lead them to the other rec.autos groups, but who have a
specific interest in the CC vehicle they own and need help from others
who have the same vehicles.
COVERAGE REVISITED. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler serves all Chrysler Corp.
vehicle owners, including those who own cars made "retroactively" by
"CC." This includes Jeeps, Eagles, Dodges, Plymouths, DeSotos, and more.
To make life easier on everyone, it will also include Mitsubishis and
Diamond-Stars sold with the Chrysler label, such as the Talon/Eclipse
(joint venture) and the Colt (MMC). If the field gets too crowded in the
future, some groups could logically be split off -- e.g. Jeeps, trucks,
minivans, muscle cars, etc.
DISTRIBUTION. Chrysler is trying to re-enter the European and Japanese
markets in force; the Neon was meant to be a wedge to get into Europe
and Japan. The new CEO, Bob Eaton, used to head GM Europe, so he knows
all about non-American markets. Hence, worldwide distribution, for the
future -- and for present worldwide Chrysler owners.
From val...@mordor.com
Date: 10 Dec 1994 11:11:22 GMT
From: val...@mordor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.chrysler, rec.autos.misc, rec.answers,
news.answers
Subject: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 2/4
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/part2
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 12/01/94
Version: 1.3
FAQ For Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler
Related FAQs: Shadow/Sundance/Duster, Neon.
PART II - THE CARS
Thanks to Gene Fusco for writing the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ, which
this is based on, and to Jarvis Smallfield of the MML for forwarding it
to us!
MML-based items (edited for this group) are marked with a -. Newer items
are marked with a *. Thanks to Lloyd R. Parker and Wayne Toy for their
additions and help in the engines and oil sections.
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
What CC means
Is this good for my engine?
Do I have a Chrysler or Mitsubishi engine?
What is Chrysler's USA customer service number? (toll-free)
1-800-992-1997
What is Chrysler's e-mail address? 00055...@mcimail.com
What is Chrysler's Five-Star Dealers number? 1-800-677-5782.
How do I get a free catalog of service bulletins? 1-800-626-1523.
What should my tire pressure be? (FWD only)
What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?
What kind of oil filter should I use?
What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine?
What kind of engine do I have?
What is a Mopar? Do I have one?
Which are the Diamond Star models?
What is a K-car?
How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?
What is an x body? (Where x=A,B,C,E,F....)
Doesn't Chrysler ever sell engines to Mitsubishi?
How can I increase the power of my engine?
What is returnless fuel injection?
What is multiple-point fuel injection?
All other questions.
--------
2.2 and 2.5 liter engines: performance modifications
* For troubleshooting, including the 2.2/2.5 engines, see Part 4.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
* What does CC mean? Chrysler Corporation.
- Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)
This is a topic that elicits debate on the scale of many religious wars.
50% of the people asked will say yes, and the rest will say no.
BUT --
The Toyota FAQ sez: (thanx, Todd Haverstock (mu...@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu)!)
"Independent laboratories as well as engine manufacturer Briggs and
Stratton have rendered a verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil
treatments are useless. The PTFE particles in Slick 50 have been said
to clog the tiny oil galleries in your engine. Products from other
companies marketing similar treatments can possibly damage your engine.
Your best bet is to stay away from any oil additives."
* Do I have a Chrysler (CC) or Mitsibushi (MMC) engine?
(The following applies to most CC vehicles *after* 1960. You may also
want to reference Part 4, which goes into more detail).
FOUR CYLINDERS: The 2.2 and 2.5 are CC (note that the 2.5 Jeep engine is
not the same as the 2.5 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge engine), the 2.6 is a
MMC. MMC engines were used in joint ventures such as the Talon and
Stealth, until the 2.0 Neon engine came out in 1994 (model year 1995).
MMC also made a 2.0 engine. Most new CC cars use CC engines,
the exception being the 2.5 MMC V-6.
The L-bodies (Omni/Horizon) used a 1.7 SOHC IL-4 by VW at first (manual
trans only) and then switched to a 1.6 SOHC IL-4 by Peugeot (manual
trans). They also later used CC's 2.2. Some Reliant/Aries used a MMC
2.6. The Premier/Monaco used a Renault 3.0 SOHC V-6 (the Premier at
first also used the Jeep 2.5 I-4). The 1996 Dodge Dakota will, as the
standard engine, use the Jeep 2.5 L instead of the CC 2.5.
SIX CYLINDERS: the 3.0 (except Premier/Monaco Renault V6) and 2.5 are
from MMC, the 3.3, 3.5, 3.8, and 3.9 are all CC. The 3.9 is derived from
the 318 V-8 (5.2 liter) of old. Many Jeeps also use the straight-six
(4.0 liter) developed by Jeep. The "slant-six" (170, 198, and 225 cid)
are authentic Chrysler engines - and legendary ones at that.
OTHERS: V-8s & V-10 are all Chrysler. 5.2=318, 5.9=360.
EXCEPTIONS: The Colt, Summit, and some other small models
were Mitsubishis. MMC engines include the 1.5, 1.6, 2.0 (pre-1994), and
3.0. Jeep had its own 2.5 liter engine which is not the car 2.5.
There is a new 2.5 V-6 based on the MMC 3.0 V6.
JEEPS & AMCs seem to have been built by a kit car philosophy before CC
bought AMC from the French (long story). Engines, carbs, transmissions,
and other parts were bought from Chrysler, GM, and the F-word. (Hence
carb trouble on many CJs from the Motorcrap carburetors). (Courtesy of
Lloyd Parker, some additions/corrections by Daniel J. Stern)
1.5 in Colt: MMC
1.6 in Horizons too: Peugeot built
1.7 in Horizons: Volkswagen built and designed from Rabbit's (Golf's).
1.8 from Mitsu in Laser/Talon too.
2.0 in 1st generation (90-94) diamond star coupes: MMC, same as in
galant
2.0 (95 and afterwards): Chrysler designed & built
2.2 Chrysler designed/built. Workhorse.
2.4 Larger displacement neon engine with balance shafts
2.5 Chrysler designed/built, long stroke 2.2 with balance shafts
2.6 mitsu engine available in early/mid 80's (MMC hemi!)
3.0 V6: MMC designed, in many cars/minivans
3.3 V6: chrysler designed/built PUSHROD engine.
NO 3.3 WAS MMC!
3.5 V6: 24 valve SOHC derivative of the 3.3L
3.8 V6: bigger displacement 3.3 used in vans/imperial/new yorker(?)
2.5 v6: mitsu engine in avenger/sebring/cirrus/stratus
3.9 V6: used in trucks, 318 V8 with 2 cylinders missing, basically
5.2 V8: 318ci V8
5.9 V8: 360ci V8
older Jeeps
2.5L I4: GM
2.5L I4: in 85? & up AMC designed
2.8 V-6: GM
4.2L I6: 258 six
4.0L I6: Based on the AMC 2.5L? AMC.
5.2l V8: CC 318, mod from the old days for new CC trucks/Jeeps
5.9l V8: AMC V8 part of the 290/304/343/360/390/401 family--NOT CC 360!
Older engines:
"A" engine family (actually LA): 273/318/340/360 V8 (small block)
common bore centers, common stroke an all except 360
"B" engine family: 350 (57 plymouth) 361, later (most) 383, 400
Big Block, common bore spacings, etc. common 3.38" stroke I believe
"G" engine family (slant six, or /6): 170, 198, 225. some of the
reasons for the slant include a lower hoodline and room for a nice,
long, efficient manifold system. It also makes the engine easier to work
on.
"RB" engine family: (raised "B"): early 383, 413, 426 wedge, 440
same as "B", except taller deck height and common 3.75" stroke
* What is Chrysler's toll-free customer service number?
** 800-992-1997**
* What is Chrysler Five-Star Dealers number? 1-800-677-5782.
* How do I get a free catalog of service bulletins? 1-800-626-1523
* What is Chrysler's e-mail address? 00055...@mcimail.com
* What should my tire pressure be? (FWD)
For front wheel drive, try maximum pressure in the front (for handling)
with recommended pressure in the rear (for ride and to even out wear).
This gave me great results with my Shadow (35 / 32). Experiment. (Neons
take much higher tire pressures, it seems).
* What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?
EFI, TBI, etc refer to the fuel injection system. EFI means electronic
fuel injection, and can apply to any of the following systems. TBI is
throttle body injection; a single fuel injector (sometimes two) sprays
atomized fuel into the air as it heads out to the cylinders. It is
somewhat more efficient than a carburetor because it rarely needs
adjustment, is better at metering fuel, may be electronically controlled
more easily, and does a better job of mixing fuel and air.
MPI is multiple-point injection; it sprays the fuel directly into
each cylinder, using one injector per cylinder. The fuel is mixed better
with the air than with TBI, and doesn't have a chance to fall out of
suspension (as it does with TBI). The fuel may also be mixed even more
precisely. MPI systems are usually much smoother than TBI systems, and
often have better low-end torque.
SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; whereas MPI systems
sometimes fire fuel against a closed intake valve, SMPI systems only
fire a fuel injector when the fuel can go straight into the cylinder
(when it's needed, in other words). This is the best system; it
generates the most power and the most gas mileage.
DIS means distributorless ignition system. A new system for any
model or make, this eliminates the distributor like electronic ignition
did without the points. The savings are in maintenance (no distributor,
no distributor cap, no rotor) and in power (a better and more consistent
spark). It is standard on all NEW CC cars (Neon, LH, etc) and trucks
(1500, 2500, 3500).
SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts - Single or Dual
OverHead Cam means that the camshaft(s) are over the
cylinders rather than underneath them. In 4-cylinder engines
one camshaft is reputed to be more reliable, two more powerful.
*** IF you have a TBI engine, refer to the TBI FAQ ***
* What kind of oil filter should I use?
An OLD Consumer Reports article rates Mopar as the best
and Fram as a close second. Recent discussions in rec.autos.tech
suggest that Fram is the best general-purpose oil filter. Rumor
suggests that Mopar filters are built by Fram. They still seem
to be the best. Comments are solicited on this subject.
* What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine?
10W30, according to CC (although they originally recommended 5W30,
internal studies have caused them to change their mind). Use Energy
Conserving II, it's more slippery. SG grade is good unless you can find
SH grade (the letters go up as the oil gets better). If you choose a
synthetic, change it as frequently, because pollutants still build up.
Turbo 2.2 and 2.5 definitely use 10W30. With the nonturbo models, there
is some discussion still going on, and no definite word from CC yet.
- What kind of engine do I have ???
Raise the hood and check the emissions stickers. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals (it takes so little time
you can do it in a bookstore while browsing).
* What is a Mopar? Do I have one?
A Mopar is slant for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs and
to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by CC; and some restrict it to high
performance cars only. It may be applied to Diamond-Star cars (including
the Talon/Eclipse/Laser).
* Which are the Diamond Star models?
The term is usually used for all MMC and CC "collaborations," including
the Stealth/3000GT and the new Avenger/Sebring. The Colt and RAM 50 were
MMC vehicles sold by CC.
* What are the K-cars?
K-cars, strictly speaking, were the Reliant and Aries. However, many
people include the "extended K-cars" (Caravelle, 600, some LeBarons,
some New Yorkers, E-Class). Most of CC's products, for a time, were
based on the K-car platform, as a Lincoln and the Mustang are based on
the Ford Fairmont platform (except that the K platform was good). Some
believe that calling a related car a "K-car" is a flame; others see it
as a compliment. It depends on whether you believe in bashing the
K-cars, which are old now, or praising them for their longevity (how
many first-generation Escorts are still around to be creaky?). - thanks
for clarification to Mike <mike...@canrem.com>
* How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?
Turn the ignition key to on (not start) three times (off on off on off
on) and leave it in the on (not start) position. The check engine light
will blink. Count the blinks; fault codes are two digits long (e.g. 21).
When it is finished, it will blink a 55; if there are no fault codes
stored, it will only blink 55. A list is in the FSM and Part 3 of this
FAQ. (Some cars do not have this type of computer).
- What is an x body? (Where x=A,B,C,E,F....)
Chrysler used a letter designation to identify various body styles -
e.g. a-bodies included Valiant, Dart, Duster, Swinger, Demon, and some
Barracudas. Most of the mechanical components will fit between
different members of the same body type. Body elements most usually
don't.
(Below list courtesy Lloyd R. Parker)
A -- Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Spirit, Acclaim, LeBaron (sedan), Scamp,
Duster
B -- Coronet, Charger, Magnum, Monaco, Premier, Belvedere, Satellite,
GTX, Road Runner, Fury, Cordoba
C -- Polara, Monaco, Fury, VIP, Gran Fury, Newport, 300, Town & Country,
New Yorker, Imperial, Dynasty
D -- Talon, (Plymouth) Laser
E -- Barracuda, Challenger, 600, Caravelle, E-Class, New Yorker
F -- Aspen, Volare
G -- Daytona, (Chrysler) Laser
H -- Lancer, LeBaron (hatchback)
J -- LeBaron (coupe/convertible), Cordoba, Imperial, Mirada
K -- LeBaron, Executive, Limousine, Aries, Reliant, 400, 600
L -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
M -- Diplomat, LeBaron, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Gran Fury
P -- Shadow, Sundance, Duster
Q -- TC by Maserati
R -- St. Regis, Gran Fury, Newport, New Yorker
S -- Town & Country, Caravan, Voyager
Y -- New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial
LH -- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision
PL -- Neon
JA -- Cirrus, Stratus
FJ -- Sebring, Avenger
SR -- Viper
XJ -- Cherokee, Wagoneer
YJ -- Wrangler
ZJ -- Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer
SJ -- Grand Wagoneer
PJ -- Talon
* Doesn't Chrysler ever sell engines to Mitsubishi?
Yes, in the base Eclipse.
* How can I increase the power of my engine?
Lambros Racing out of St. Louis has many, many interesting Chrysler
upgrades and mods. You can reach Lambros Racing at 314-725-7181 or
314-725-5585 the address is 6603 Olive Rd, St Louis, Mo 63130-2645.
They should send you a catalog if you ask, and give you some
recommendations on what to do. (Thanks, Tom <t...@po.cwru.edu>).
== And don't forget Mopar Performance!
* What is returnless fuel injection?
In most fuel injection systems, fuel is sent up to the engine, and
excess fuel is returned to the tank. In returnless fuel injection,
available on most new CC products (and few, if any, other vehicles),
just enough fuel is sent up to the engine, so nothing has to be sent
back. Safer because there's only one fuel line.
* What is multiple-point fuel injection?
With a carburetor, fuel and air mix at a single point, then travel down
a series of tubes (the intake manifold) into the engine. Fuel-air
metering is hard to control precisely. Central point fuel injection,
used for example on Ford Escorts, replaces the carburetor with a fuel
injector, suspended where the carb used to be -- not much of an
improvement, really, and it still has a choke! Throttle body fuel
injection is another minor improvement -- a single fuel injector,
controlled by a computer, injects atomized fuel into an air stream. The
best is multiple point fuel injection, where fuel is injected directly
into the air stream headed into each cylinder. WIth sequential MPI,
(SMPI), the computer sprays fuel into each cylinder's air stream only
when the intake valve for that cylinder is open. This way, the fuel
stays in a mist in the air at all times, and doesn't fall out of
suspension the way it can in other systems. It's the most efficient - it
can apparently add about 15 hp without reducing fuel economy - and it
makes for the cleanest emissions.
- All other questions.
Check the ballast resistor and the vacuum hoses.
************************TBI ENGINES****************************
This section is designed to help those who have throttle body injection
(TBI) engines - the 2.2 and 2.5 liter EFI models without turbochargers.
These engines have nice low-end torque for four-cylinder models but are
lacking in horsepower due mainly to poor breathing. They are
2-valve-per-cylinder, long-stroke designs and seem to be based on years
of slant-six production. Heavily modified, these form the basis of the
new 2.0 and 2.4 engines.
This section discusses MODIFICATIONS of these engines ONLY. For
troubleshooting, see the troubleshooting section. Thanks.
These engines were used on many cars, minivans, and light trucks. The
engine computers and the engines themselves underwent many changes as
the years went on. By 1994, when they were all discontinued, they were
pretty much cured of any previous problems other than less than optimal
power and gas mileage.
* Redundant information in the following posts has been removed.
------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Herbert DaSilva {75303}" <h...@swl.msd.ray.com>
- Get a 185 degree thermostat. No colder. The computer goes from
"cold" to "warm" program at 180 degrees. Normal thermostat is 195.
- Wire up a second coolant temperature sensor through a switch with
the one on the engine. Mount the second one on the chassis ground
somewhere cool. When you throw the switch, the engine will drop into
the "cold" program, which causes the engine to run richer than normal.
Be careful that you triple check the wiring on this before starting
the engine, the TBI computer is not immune to overload input.
- Get a cam from MP (this is only for 2.5 owners). I can get you the
part number of a cam that may give a
jump in power while still in the range of the stock
injector.
- Underdrive pulleys. Available from LRE, maybe others.
- Smooth out the exhaust - there are several ultra-high flow cats on
the market - go 2-1/4 all the way back to a turbo-flow muffler.
- If you start to get lean, get in touch with some of the companies
that specialize in fuel injectors and get an 8% or 10% oversize
injector. The stock computer will be able to handle it.
------------------------------------------------------------
From: brad2...@aol.com (Brad2dbone)
Alright here's some stuff that I've done to mine, a '93 Duster.
(Essentially a Sundance with big suspension/brakes and upgraded
electrical system.)
*K&N Airfilter - This makes a *NOTICEABLE* improvement. The stock filter
seems to give the thing a wheeze, but this changed the *intake* tone
quite a bit.
* Look down beside the battery. Right between the headlight and the
battery their will be a little plastic "bucket" that's supposed to keep
snow/debris from going up the intake hose to the air cleaner. Pull this
off. Smooth pipe from the airbox to the air duct by the battery will
also help. DO NOT remove the hose. This hose pulls air across the
drive transistors for the injector. Without this hose, you WILL burn
out the transistors.
* Cut a hole (about 3" dia.) in back of air box. This is supposed to
give you a little bit more low end torque. Make sure to put a mesh up
there to keep large objects out of the air box. OR - Change the airbox
all together. From looking at the K&N on my car, it looks like air is
primarily coming in thru the side. This is only a 2" high by ?? long
area, so I'm thinking of getting a turbo airbox with a flat, LARGE area
to draw air more quickly.
* I'm going to either 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe from the cat.
back for now. Daytona/Laser mufflers will fit our cars. (HINT!) Stock
pipe is 1 7/8". Lambros Race Engineering has an adjustable fuel
pressure regulator that will allow for fixing lean conditions. They
also have different gear ratios (provided you don't mind losing top end)
and they have different pulleys. This will spin the accessories a
little slower to reduce parasitic horsepower losses.
* All right, now what about in the motor? A Purple cam shaft for the
2.2 TBI will work on the 2.5's. There is two different numbers, one for
automatics and one for 5 speeds. Lambros does porting and other head
work. Lambros is real good to work with. E-Mail me for more info on
them. It might make the motor a little more vibration prone, (with
longer stroke) but the counter-balance shafts can be removed and the oil
galley plugged and that will pick up about 10-15 horsepower. Lightening
the flywheel is good for about 15 dynamic horsepower. (Just makes the
motor "rap" quicker, but doesn't add actual dyno horses.)
* TBI is a real pain in the butt, because we don't get any performance
parts. They have *NO* computers, or different upgrades.
* And last, but not least . . . we have the little blue bottle.(NOS) The
ultimate equalizer. A system runs under $400, depending on where you
get it. An extra 50-75 hp is about the safe limits, with stock parts.
You just have to be careful to keep adequate fuel pressure and not to
use it at too low of an RPM. Dropping 2 seconds off your ET with one of
these is no problem. The only thing that is bad, is refilling the
bottle. (About $15-30 depending on size/cost.)
------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bradley_W._Mille...@xerox.com
I think my air cleaner was about $35. I just ordered it thru a local
"mom/pop" auto store. (K&N airfilter.) A friend of mine has a "twin" of
my car in the 5-speed 2.5L and he liked the throttle response of mine.
I talked to Forward Motion, and they said that you could change to a
multi-point injector setup, with LOTS of custom fabrication and an
aftermarket ECU. They said it would probably be around $2,000 before
tuning the thing. This would possibly put the motor at about 150 hp.
Cam seems like an improvement, but if you can't get the air in, the
thing will be a waste. They (Forward Motion) said that the cam would
help bottom end, and leave horsepower about the same.
The MPI is more expensive becuase of the added parts and stuff to get it
to work. You'd have to retrofit the appropriate computer stuff to get
it to work.
Here's the price and part numbers of the camshafts -
P4529321 - Manual $89.25 (List $119)
P4529319 - Automatic $89.25 (List $119)
Here's the bio from Forward Motion: RPM Range 2800-5800 (2500-5500 on
automatic). Best choice for those looking for more mid-range and top
end horsepower. Really likes a ported cylinder head but it will work
well on stock. Excellent Nitrous Oxide camshaft w/Stg. 2 head. We have
run 13.80's @ 107 mph with this peice.
Of course notice that is keeps mentioning the breathing abilities, which
the 2.5/2.2 TBI don't have. Porting and other headwork or even the
camshaft isn't going to help the intake manifold. I've asked around,
and they put the same TBI manifold on everything. From mini-vans to
Dakota 4's. Ugh.
Note that those prices, are probably about the same that you can get it
thru a local Dodge dealer by whipping out your Shelby Dodge club card.
About a 25% discount on parts. <GRIN>
------------------------------------------------------------
From: vinc...@ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Vincent Cheng)
4)reworking the intake manifold. Use a high speed hand grinder and
smooth out the plenum and runners. Round off all sharp turns. Rounding
off the edges and enlarging and smoothing the inside contours of the
ruuners can add breathing efficiency without any notable sacrifice in
other area.(From the book "Performance with Economy" by David Vizard
page 37).
5)Match Porting. Use 80 grit sanding rolls for this job. First start
by applying dye to the intake gasket surface of the head. Fit studs
into the head to help position the intake gasket during the next step.
Carefully slip the intake manifold gasket over the studs and against the
head so it most nearly matches the intake ports of the head. Working
carefully so the gasket isn't moved, scribe a line around each intake
port, following the inside diameter the gasket hole. Do the same on the
intake manifold. Use bolts to locate the gasket in place. Remove
gasket and set it aside. Next, with a carbide cutter, grind away the
intake port and manifold to match the lines scribed on the mating
surfaces. Dip the cutter in beeswax or keronsene to prevent clogging.
Blend the new contour into the intake port about one to two inches.
Then, you can streamline the valve guide boss, don't remove much
material from the guide for fear of weakening it. Remove just enough
metal to blend the guide into the port walls. After that, with a carbide
cutter, carefully and slowly taper the port so that the surface is
smooth where the valve seat and the port meet. As you smooth the
passage, be very careful not to nick the valve seating surface. The
object here is not to remove a lot of material but to eliminate any
ridge between the head and seat. Blend and smooth the rough cut into
the port wall. Don't take off a lot of material here: Grinding
excessively may actually readuce flow! Then, surface the port using the
sanding rolls. Don't try for a mirror polish, sice a slightly rough
finish will be best compromise between flow and fuel atomization. Repeat
the procedure for each exhaust port, being careful not to enlarge the
exhaust port mor than the size of the exhaust manifold. Lastly, finish
the exhaust port surface with fine paper(220 to 300 grit). A mirror
polish in the exhaust port is desirable becauseit reduces carbon
buildup. Match porting procedure is quoted from the book "Toyota
Performance Handbook" by Pat Barden.
6)custom headers. With all the work done on the exhaust manifold, you
can really benefit with some good headers.
------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bradley_W._Mille...@xerox.com
I was concerned that I might be running into a lean condition, the car
gets a bad "soft spot" in 2nd and 3rd gear with a load. I haven't tried
this yet, but they suggested a "poor man's lean/rich" sensor. There is
generally three or four wires from the O2 sensor on the exhaust
manifold/pipe. One of these will be either 5 or 12 volts positive. One
or two will be ground and one will be the sensor lead. Take a voltmeter
(DVM, not a old analog) and probe to find the correct wire. They said
to connect the DWM and monitor the thing at idle with the + lead of the
DVM hooked to the sensor wire and the - to ground. You want the setting
to be in hundredths of a volt (if your DWM isn't autoranging). The thing
should bounce around on voltage readings at idle. (Make sure you've
warmed up the car for a little while.) By hooking the thing up inside
the car, (tap into the wires and run into passenger compartment) you can
monitor the conditions of the fuel/air mixture. Lambros stated the
voltage should be form .88 to .94 volts during acceleration (load). Any
lower than this is going to be lean, and any greater is going to be
rich. Now, I don't know for sure if these numbers apply to all cars.
Their number is 314-725-7181. They will be more than happy to help you.
These voltage numbers should apply to TBI normally aspirated cars. This
test will also show if your O2 sensor is working properly. They will
also have a sensor for permanent installation coming soon.
I just got my exhaust on Friday. It really helped with the sound of the
car and the mid-range pull. I've now got 2 1/4" pipe all the way back
to a Walker Super Turbo muffler. You can step down on the accelerator
and really get a good shove in the pants without the car downshifting.
In the upper RPM bands it doesn't really help too much.
From val...@mordor.com
Date: 10 Dec 1994 11:11:25 GMT
From: val...@mordor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.chrysler, rec.autos.misc, rec.answers,
news.answers
Subject: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 3/4
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/part3
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 12/01/94
Version: 1.3
FAQ for rec.autos.makers.Chrysler
Related FAQs: Neon, Shadow/Sundance/Duster.
PART III - Computer codes, acronyms, and engines
********************************************************
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is not start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes
Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be
FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH FLASH FLASH <loong pause>
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you dont have air conditioning.
Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.
The following was leeched from Herb. :)
[some additions by cho...@astro.ge.com Charles Hobbs)
88 Start of test (This only appears on DRBII, it's not blinked out)
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent
loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Memory Standby power lost (battery cable disconnected)
13* No change in MAP from start to run
14* MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)
21 Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)
23 Intake air temperature signal out of range
24* Throttle position circuit out of range
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
27 Logic module fuel circuit internal problem
OR
27 TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal
31 Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted OR
Evaparator solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure OR
Power loss lamp open or shorted
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
34 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
36 Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR
Park/neutral switch failure
OR
37 Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light.
These codes cover multiple years and engines (2.2l, 2.5l, 3.0l).
NOTE #1. The power module has an air-cooled resistor which is
used to sense the incoming air temperature. This information is fed to
the
logic module and is used to control the duty cycle of the field current
in the
alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is
computer
regulated. The battery voltage is sensed by the logic module -- there
is an
internal takeoff from the wire feeding the NVRAM keep-alive power
circuit
which is fed to a voltage comparator. So...if you lose the feed to keep
RAM
information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage
sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar
***********************************************************
From: Joe Schaffer <scha...@mopac.amd.com>
MOPARCRONYMS=========================================
* Modified items followed by /daz; list shortened considerably
\6 = Slant six (cylinder layout pattern)
ABS = Anti lock Brakes (from German) /daz
A/C = Air Conditioning
ACR = American Club Racer (showroom stock race package for the Neon)
AFU = All F*#!ed Up
AT = Automatic Transmission
ATDC = After Top Dead Center
AWD = All Wheel Drive
BHP = Brake Horse Power
BTDC = Before Top Dead Center
CAFE = Corporate Average Fuel Economy legislation
CC = Chrysler Corporation; Combusion Chamber;
Cruise Control; Cubic Centimeter (cc)
CG = Center of Gravity
CID = Cubic Inch Displacement
CO = Carbon monOxide
CO2 = Carbon diOxide (oxide, being plural constitutes the "2")
CYA = C(see) YA(you)
DC = Direct Connection
DIS = Distributorless Ignition System
DMV = Department of Motor Vehicles
DTH? = Does This Help ?
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation
ET = Elapsed Time
FSM = Factory Service Manual
FORD = Fix Or Repair Daily / Found On Road Dead
FUBAR = F*#!ed Up Beyond Any (All) Repair (see above)
4WD = Four Wheel Drive (now usually AWD, these days)
FWD = Front Wheel Drive
FYI = For Your Information
GLH = Goes Like Hell (origional Hi-performance Dodge Omni)
GLHS = Goes Like Hell Somemore (next Hi-Po Shelby Omni)
GVW = Gross Vehicle Weight
HC = HydroCarbons
HP = Horse Power
HTH = Hope This Helps
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion (see IMO)
LH = not an an acronym, a platform name (Concorde, Intrepid, Vision)
MMC = Mitsubishi Motor Corp.
MML = Mopar Mailing List
MOPAR = Mainly Out Performs All the Rest
MP = Mopar Performace (Mopar's performance parts)
MP = Mounted Police, Multiple Personality, Member Parliament /daz
MT = Manual Transmission
NHRA = National Hot Rod Association
NHTSA = National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
NOS = New Old Stock (40 year old part still in factory wrapper!)
NOX = Nitrogen OXides (NO, NO2, etc)
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer
P/S = Power Steering
PB = Power Brakes
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PS = Power Steering
PSI = Pounds per Square Inch
R/T = Ralleye Trim
R/T = Road (&/or) Track
RPM = Revolutions Per Minute
RWD = Rear Wheel Drive
S/N = Signal to Noise ratio (garbage posts vs. useful)
SBEC = Single Board Engine Controller
SCCA = Sports Car Club of America
SCCA = Southern California Car Association
SDAC = Shelby Dodge Auto Club
SMEC = Single Module Engine Computer
SR = Sun Roof
T/A = That's Awesome
T/A = Trans Am (a racing class)
TC = TaChometer OR Torque Converter
TC = A short-lived Maserati built, K based 2 seater.
TDC = Top Dead Center
TMC = Tidewater Mopar Club
TNRCC = Texas Natural Resources Conservation Commission (Car Crushers,
pronounced "train wreck")
TP = Throttle Position
TPS = Throttle Postions Solenoid
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin
WFO = Wide F***ing Open
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
WPC = Walter P. Chrysler club
YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary (exclusion clause)
***********************************************************
From Lloyd Parker:
Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
1.4 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt, Champ
1.5 IL-4 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket
1.5 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 SOHC IL-4 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 SOHC turbo IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt
1.7 SOHC IL-4 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 SOHC IL-4 -- Neon, Stratus
2.0 DOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC IL-4 -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon
2.2 SOHC IL-4 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries,
Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle,
Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class
2.2 SOHC turbo IL-4 -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby
2.2 DOHC turbo IL-4 -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo IL-4 -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 SOHC IL-4 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Vista, Summit
2.4 DOHC IL-4 -- Stratus
2.5 SOHC IL-4 -- Caravan, Voyager, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle
2.5 SOHC turbo IL-4 -- Caravan, Voyager, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona
2.5 IL-4 (AMC-derived) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier
2.5 SOHC V-6 (Mistu) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus
2.6 SOHC IL-4 (Mitsu) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 SOHC turbo IL-4 (Mitsu) -- Conquest
2.8 /6 (170) -- Dart, Valiant
3.0 SOHC V-6 (Mitsu) -- LeBaron, TC, Town & Country, New Yorker,
Dynasty,
Daytona, Stealth, Spirit, Shadow, Acclaim, Duster,
Caravan, Voyager
3.0 DOHC V-6 (Mitsu) -- Stealth
3.0 DOHC turbo V-6 (Mitsu) -- Stealth
3.0 SOHC V-6 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.3 V-6 -- New Yorker, Town & Country, Concorde, Dynasty, Intrepid,
Vision, Caravan, Voyager
3.3 /6 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.5 SOHC V-6 -- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision
3.7 /6 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare
3.8 V-6 -- Town & Country, New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, Caravan,
Voyager
4.0 IL-6 (AMC-derived) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 IL-6 (AMC) -- Wrangler
8.0 V-10 -- Viper (488 cid)
----------------------------------
V-8s:
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada,
Diplomat, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger,
Coronet
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda
From val...@mordor.com
Date: 10 Dec 1994 11:11:32 GMT
From: val...@mordor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.chrysler, rec.autos.misc, rec.answers,
news.answers
Subject: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 4/4
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 12/01/94
Version: 1.3
FAQ For Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler
Related FAQs: Shadow/Sundance/Duster, Neon.
PART IV - Troubleshooting Problems
This is separated into three parts: modern cars/trucks/minivans, classic
cars (rear wheel drive), and Neons (Neon owners should also check the
modern index, because they share computers and transmissions with many
other models).
There is lamentably no other organization for this, unlike some great
auto FAQs (Toyota comes to mind). Sorry. Can't figure out how else to
organize it, so you have to run through all the FAQ items to find the
one you want. A list of which cars are included in which category is at
the end.
Index for Modern Cars/Trucks/Minivans:
1. * Important! Fuel leak alert! - ALL 2.2 engines
2. Climate control system acting strangely
3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
4 Noise on turns
5. Running rich
6. Tachometer problems
7. LH headlights not bright enough (Intrepid, Vision, Concorde)
8. Heater isn't working right (front wheel drive cars)
9. Caravan/Voyager door won't open/close
10. Oil seeps from the valve cover gaskets (2.2/2.5 liter engines)
11. Check Engine light went on
12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15)
13. Backfiring
14. Dakota creak
15. More information on the MAP sensor and testing it
16. Hard to shift into reverse
17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
18. 4-cylinders: snapping noise when starting/stopping
Index for Classic Cars:
1. Won't start
2. Anything from pollution to loss of power -
mechanic says replace engine, trans, ignition, or carb
3. Stalling
4. Windshield wipers won't work
Index for Neons:
1. Clicking or air noise from the windows or doors OR water leakage
2. Windows are hard to raise and lower
3. Turn signal doesn't return all the way to the center.
4. Rattling from wheel well
5. Glovebox light stays on all the time
6. Squeaky exhaust noise
7. Hard to shift into reverse: See #16 of the regular Index.
8. Gas pedal sticks / engine won't rev until gas hit hard
================================================================
1. FUEL LEAKS:
sese...@vt.edu (Sherrie E. Settle) wrote: [edited]
> They did do a recall for fuel line replacement in '88 (I have an '87),
but it
> was presented as replacing a rigid line with a more flexible one.
My 1986 LeBaron GTS with 2.2 turbo was recalled for the same thing. They
put on a longer, more flexible piece of fuel line between the metal line
and the fuel pressure regulator. I discovered that a clamp on this line
was loose and fuel was dripping. I tightened the clamp, the leak stopped
and never came back.
* I'd recommend every 2.2 turbo owner check these fuel line clamps *
From: viking <wie...@acn.purdue.edu>:
I had the same problem with my '88 Omni 2.2L TBI. It was leaking a
small amount of fuel from one of the lines on the left rear of the
engine. Tightening the clamps did the trick here, too.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Air Temperature Control Problems:
From: cp...@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Donald Grant Reed Crafts)
In a previous article, uj...@miller.cs.uwm.edu (James Jegers) says:
> I just bought a 94 Eagle Vision with the fancy automatic temperature
> controller. I run the unit in auto mode with the Air conditioner
turned
I don't have the fancy controller, but I have the same damn problem.
Mine will get to a point where you can hear the fan blowing full blast,
but none of the vents will open!
> changing. After about 5 minutes the unit makes a choice as to which
> to use and everything is fine. I've also noticed that sometimes when
it
> does this, it kicks on the air conditioner.
Again, mine does the same thing. After about 5 minutes it decides
to open a vent. It likes to turn the A/C on and off at will also.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Intermittent Idle Problems:
psch...@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu writes:
I've got any '87 Shadow, w/ a 2.2 Turbo I engine. It normally runs
great, but has a VERY intermittent idle problem. With no notice, hot
or cold, in rain or shine, the idle jumps from the usual 800 RPM or so
up to 3000+. Sometimes it goes away quickly, sometimes I have to
drive all the way home with it like that. It only happens once in a
great while.
What it's NOT: - A linkage or accelerator pedal problem
- A stuck throttle plate
- Vacuum leak
- A bad AIS motor
Something is causing the logic module to open up the AIS motor and keep
it there. This last time I manually got the AIS motor closed and then
disconnected it.
**
Try turning the defroster off. Last year my 84 Laser was doing the same
thing. When I turned off the defroster, the engine went back to proper
idle. Later, the computer kicked out the code for the speed/distance
sensor. (t...@po.cwru.edu (Tom))
**
I had the same problem and it was low freon in the A/C. (128.158.22.186
(james eldridge))
**
I had this problem for a long time with my '88 Omni. It turns out that
the wiring harness on the back side of the engine
gets so hot that it damages the insulation on the wires, causing a short
circuit. He separated and re-insulated all of the wires, and the
problem has not recurred in over a year.
-- Jeffrey J. Wieland (wie...@acn.purdue.edu)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Herbert DaSilva <h...@swl.msd.ray.com> writes:
(Problem: Noise happens on left hand turns and some bumps. Was
originally chirping noise, but now more of a rumble. More frequent. Car:
1987 Shadow 2.2, five-speed, 110K miles.)
Isolate the problem with the following test:
- Select an off-ramp or empty parking lot where you can attain some
velocity while maintaining a left hand turn when the noise is evident.
- Clutch in or slip the tranny into neutral and pump the gas pedal to
rev the engine. If the noise does not change tone when the engine is
revved, the problem is in your driveline. If the noise changes tone
with the speed of the engine, the passenger side engine mount has
probably collapsed.
**
From: 128.158.22.186 (james eldridge)
I think I had this problem too. It was a bad motor mount. I put in a
new CV joint before I found the real problem.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Alexander V. Khrabrov (sa...@aquila.dartmouth.edu) wrote:
: 2.2 TBI engine in my '88 Horizon--The engine runs too rich diring
: crank-up, and for some time after. A couple of times it even wouldn't
: start because of flooding. The overall gas mileage isn't bad however:
: 25-26 mpg (auto transm). The symptom is more likely to show up when
: the car is started hot, or with a cold engine, when the ambient
: temperature is warm. The condition got better after replacing the
: oxygen sensor, but hadn't gone completely.
mjbe...@mtu.edu (Mb) said:
Tune up the carb by changing the ratio, you should probably turn down
the fuel instead of turning up the air though. It will take alot of
time to get it right, but when you do you will see better overall
performance. I had that problem with my 86 Charger with 2.2L. After I
tuned up the carb, I drove to Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. with the air
condidtioning most of the way and I pulled off 33mpg!!!!!
Jesse Oliver said:
My sister had the same problem with a 2.2 Shadow. Finally we just
unhooked the wire to the injector and put a toggle switch in the line.
Every time the car wouldn't start, usually dead of winter in high winds,
she would pop the hood, flip the switch and the car would clean itself
out, then flip the switch back on and she was off and running. We owned
the car for 2 years after installing the switch and used it 5 or 6 times
a winter.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Tach probs:
Tom (t...@po.cwru.edu) sez:
I've come across a number of Lasers/Daytonas with broken tachometers. If
it appears that the tach works sometimes, and tends to skip when you hit
a bump, the problem most likely is the computer chip that processes the
signal. This chip clips onto the top rear of the dash cluster unit. It
runs about $45. I don't think the chip actually breaks, but the
contacts don't maintain constant contact.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
7. LH headlights:
Early headlights were not very bright. The lens was upgraded sometime in
1994, so 95 models should be OK. Some dealers will replace the lenses
for free on older models. Some may not. You can order new lenses or just
keep trying dealers. The part numbers for an Intrepid are 4778258 and
4778259, according to Ron Domeracki, who also says that it will probably
be fixed even out of warranty.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Heater problems:
From: (Jim Van Damme) vand...@lonex.rl.af.mil
>On 28 Nov 1994, Mark Wilson wrote:
>> The heater on my 89 Shadow ES (2.5L Turbo) is not working. I've
>> taken it to the dealer twice in the past month. They replaced the
>> thermostat, hoses, and flushed the engine. Thinking that the new
>> thermostat may have been faulty, I replaced it with a new one. The
>> problem still exists.
>
>I have an 85 Dodge 600 and I've been having the same problems for a
>while now. After a few thermostats, a radiator, and a water pump the
>problem is still there. Correct me if I'm wrong, but once the engine
>cools down, isn't it supposed tocreate a vaccuum which will suck some
>coolant out of the resevoir to keep the coolant level in the rad full?
>Well, it doesn't happen in my car for some reason.
I had a wimpy heater in my Lancer. Then I took off some ducts to see
inside it (can't take it apart without gutting the car, practically) and
HEY lookit that! The temperature regulator door doesn't seal well when
in the HOT position, allowing a little bit of cold (in my case, -10C)
air to bypass the heater core. I stuffed a 4-5 mm by 12 cm piece of foam
in there, closed the temperature door on it to make a seal, and unhooked
the cable from it (until March) so it would be held in by the door. WHAT
A DIFFERENCE! HOT TOES!! DEFROST!!
As for the 600: If your radiator cap leaks or the hose to the CRS bottle
leaks the vacuum will be lost and it won't suck the juice back in. Blow
on the bottle to see. Gross but might work. You could also have a blown
head gasket that continually blows a little combustion gas into the
coolant but let's not think about that.
Dennis Lippert notes: The temperature gauge will swing back and forth
until the entire system is warmed fully. This is because you keep
introducing "cold" coolant from the radiator into the engine, rapidly
cooling it. WHen the temp falls enough, the thermostat closes, and the
temp goes back up, repeating the cycle. This is due to a valve which
lets you get heat before the thermostat opens up. Normally, the engine
"keeps the heat to itself" until the thermostat opens... releasing hot
coolant to the radiator and heater. In the mid-80's, Chrysler started
to use the bypass system... keeping the warm coolant in the engine *and
heater* when the thermostat was closed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Caravan/Voyager stuck doors:
From: michael....@mercury.msfc.nasa.gov (Mike Stallcup)
> I had the [Grand Caravan] door open and I slid it closed, only I
didn't
> push it very hard and it did not close all of the way. I pushed
against
> the door to make it 'snap' into place, but it wouldn't close, so I
decided
> to slide the door open all of the way and then close it with more
force.
> The problem is, the door wouldn't open! I tried opening it from both
the
> outside and the inside, no luck. I made sure the door was unlocked,
> although the van has power locks, I was wondering if one of them was
stuck
> in a locked position internally (I locked and unlocked the power locks
> several times). Just for the heck of it, I tried once more to open the
> door. Sure enough, the door opened right away, with very little
effort!
We had the same problem on a '87 Caravan. First, the interior trim panel
is held to the sliding door with spring clips which seem to get tired
over the years. Sometimes when you shut the door it pops loose at the
back of the door and jams the door from opening. Crawl in from the
front, push the trim panel back onto the door and try to open it.
I also found that if I stood outside, reached inside past the front
passenger seat and grabbed the inside sliding door handle, then held the
outside sliding door handle, I could pull the door closed enough to
release the latch and open the door.
I think the second factor was that the roller on the track at the
top/inside of the door was out of alignment. Over the years the bolts
had loosened and the door was not closing tight (the power door locks
did not work on the sliding door - another clue because the two metal
contacts in the door jamb were not aligning properly). Remove the trim
cover on the top roller bracket and tighten/readjust the bolts. You may
have to try several times until you get them at the right setting. I
used some Locktite thread locker. Haven't had any problems since then.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Oil seepage from the valve cover gaskets: (<Dave>
val...@mordor.com)
This is an inevitable problem on many 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines. The
answer, believe it or not, lies in the valve cover itself. In 1994, the
last year for the 2.2, they finally fixed the valve cover design. See if
you can get one of the newest ones. There does not appear to have been a
TSB on this -- my information is from the press books. The dealer will
need a LOT of convincing, so if all else fails, send me e-mail and I
will forward the text from the press book.
I have not found any other way to stop the seepage of oil. My own 2.2
went back 5 times for this and my 2.5 went back 3 times (this time, to a
competent dealer -- *not* Autoland of Springfield, NJ!) with no success.
To be honest, I haven't gotten the new valve cover yet, but will modify
this FAQ when I do.
You can install this part yourself quickly. I don't know what it would
cost. My opinion is that all owners of seeping engines should write to
CC immediately and demand that something be done. Then a TSB might be
issued and our engines can retain their oil. By the way, I estimate
actual leakage to be less than 1/2 quart over 6,000 miles of moderately
hard driving.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Check Engine light goes on:
1. This may be due to the need for a periodic service.
2. It may be the oxygen sensor (Steve Sheldon <she...@iastate.edu>)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13
From: jiz...@cc.umanitoba.ca (Jizhong Wang)
I won't entirely trust the computer fault codes. I have a 84 Dodge 600
ES. A couple of months ago the car stalled ocasionally with the "Power
Loss" light on. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code
13). I got a hand air vacuum pump and checked MAP sensor and hoses. I
took the car to a dealer and told my computer was faulty - didn't
replace it. Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor
and TPS sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. I can easily
reproduce fault code 13 by
1). start engine;
2) make a loose connection of the 6-way connnector by shaking;
3) engine stalls or almost stalls;
4) check computer fault code. Code 13 and only Code 13 shows up. Based
on those, I suggest you check the connections and vacuum leaks before
you replace MAP sensor. BTW, my MAP sensor is accessable under dash of
passager side, inside the car. It is two inchs above ECM.
(t...@po.cwru.edu <Thomas Z. Zeeb> adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is
located under the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to
the left, kind of above and behind the belts. It has one vacuum hose
and one three-node electrical connector attached to it. They range from
$70 -$100 US at the dealer. Sometimes if the MAP is shot, the engine
will shut down after starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine
will then run (rough) in some models.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
13. Backfiring
[from: al...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Glen Larche)] [In reply to someone who
was told by the dealer that their backfiring was caused by a damaged
airpump check valve or aspirator valve...the backfire only occurs when
driving at high speeds and then suddenly letting up on the gas]. Sounds
like you probably have a bad divertor valve (or one of its controls). It
should *stop* air from being pumped into the exhaust during
deceleration. Normally it pumps air into the exhaust to help burn off
any unburned fuel. During deceleration there is a noticable backfire if
it continues to pump air into the exhaust. Follow the large hose from
the air pump, you should come to a valve with 3 hoses the same size (one
from the pump, one to the valve you say they replace and to other
possibly to the air filter ) There should also be a smaller vacuum line
to this unit. Make sure the units diaphram is good.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Dakota creak
my truck had a loud "creak"
while driving. I found
that there is a cover plate, between the converter and the truck body,
directly under the front drivers seat, that flexes under use. This
causes a loud noise. Once found, the fix was easy-stuff something
between the plate and the body. [From: VYN...@prodigy.com (Robert
Duggan)]
--------------------------------------------------------------------
15. More MAP stuff
[From: boh...@usgp1.ih.att.com (-Bodnar,B.L.)] Here's what the "MAP
sensor pneumatic circuit" code is, and how it is set. When the engine is
first cranked, the computer does two things with the MAP sensor:
1). Before the starter engages, the map reading is taken and stored as
the barometric pressure (BP) reading. All carbureted engine systems and
speed-density fuel injected systems without a separate BP sensor do
this.
Now, the Chrysler unique part:
2). When the engine is cranking, the computer looks for a DROP in
manifold pressure IF the throttle position sensor indicates closed
throttle. If there is no pressure drop, then the MAP pneumatic circuit
is clearly faulty. This is the ONLY time the fault code can be set. If
this fault code is set, the computer will switch to a default MAP
reading (stored in ROM) and use this to allow the vehicle to be driven.
Things which can cause this fault code to be set:
1). On MAP sensors mounted in the logic module: ice buildup in the
vacuum hose going from the throttle body to the MAP sensor (there was a
TSB out on this).
2). Loose vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor.
3). Major air leak (note: on speed-density controlled engines, a
moderately sized air leak will result in an increase in idle rpm -- this
is because the MAP is the primary indicator of engine load). -- Bohdan
Bodnar
al...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Glen Larche) adds:
Relocation kit available for these. Some had problems at freezing
temperatures. Rough cold idle and stall. Seems condensation in the hose
would freeze.
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
Both should be available from your Chrysler dealer. Purpose- relocate
MAP sensor under the hood, right hand side strut tower.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions)
fran...@munch.lkg.dec.com sez this problem is common to cars which have
synchronized forward gears, but nonsynchronized reverse gears. The trick
is to shift into a forward gear before going into reverse. Or wait a few
moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the
engine shaft stops spinning.
- valiant notes that the CC five-speed in many cars was modified in 1993
or thereabouts to make getting into reverse easier. THe teeth were set
at an angle for easier engagement (info from the press books).
--------------------------------------------------------------------
17. 2.5 liter knock/idle
Some cars may have a cold engine knock a few seconds after startup,
lasting about 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounsd
like valve lifter or tappet noise. Noise loudest when weather colder.
Usually disappears when the car is warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.
-- TSB 09-06-93 provides for replacement of the Powertrain Control
Module (the computer). (<valiant>)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Snapping noise on start/stop
Noise comes from the left side of the engine while starting from or
coming to a stop. Noise more prevalent when engine comaprtment hot.
Diagnosis: With windows closed, trans in drive or first and parking
brake on, put a load onto the gas. Release the load and shift into
reverse. Listen for the noise as you apply a load in reverse. If you
can't hear it, drive at low speeds with several quick, but not hard,
acceleration/deceleration moves. Parts requried: left engine support.
Time: .6 hours (from the TSB). -- courtesy <valiant> and TSB 09-02-93.
==================================================================
************ Older Car Troubleshooting ************
Won't start (val...@mordor.com <Dave>):
If the engine is dry and all was well before, check the ballast
resistor. It's a little white block attached to the firewall (the metal
between the engine and the driver), attached with a single bolt ands
connected to two electrical wires. It's incredibly easy to replace but
will eventually fail and prevent your car from starting. Should be under
$5.
If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use
silicone spray or "wire drier" or, better yet, replace your wires with
top of the line, name-brand, lifetime warranty, 8 mm wires. These will
probably improve your gas mileage and power as well.
If the starter makes a rapid clicking noise, your battery may be worn
down, even if you can use your headlights. You will need a jump start
from a car with a large engine and very good wires. Hint: get very good
jumper cables.
Anything from pollution to loss of power (val...@mordor.com <Dave>)
This may be caused by leaking vacuum hoses or idiot mechanics
disconnecting your vacuum hoses. If you like to breathe, and you want
your car to perform well, replace all of the vacuum hose -- it costs
maybe 10 cents per foot, so don't be cheap. Just get a few yards and do
it one day (warning: you may need different kinds or sizes). Make sure
all vacuum hoses are straight and not kinked. On later cars, the
computer relies on vacuum; on earlier ones, the carb feedback and timing
depends on it. So make sure it works right. A good vacuum gauge doesn't
hurt, either.
Vacuum leaks caused by leaking hoses that look okay to the naked eye may
result in the following diagnoses by mechanics:
* Need new carburetor
* Need new transmission
* Need new engine
* Need valve job
* Need new mechanic.
Stalling (val...@mordor.com <Dave>)
See the above section on vacuum hoses. Turning the cold or warm idle
screw on the carburetor is a quick fix that doesn't solve the root
problem. If the car stalls when cold, lubricate the choke well. If it
stalls when wet, try getting much better ignition wires (8 mm, lifetime
warranty, good brand, about $30). Also try the following interesting
quick fixes:
* Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the electronic
ignition module
* Spray the little wires with silicone spray or wire drier
* Check for vacuum leaks (see above).
Windshield wipers won't work (val...@mordor.com):
Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the wiper motor. It
works!
Water leaks into the car:
A constant problem on many A-bodies (Valiant group). May be permanently
solved by (a) straightening out and emptying out the water exit hose,
which drains the cowl (the grille on top of the hood); and (b) keeping
the cowl free of leaves and gunk. This means occassionally raising the
hood and manually emptying the cowl opening. The little black tubes that
carry excess water out of there (2 of them) may be seen on the firewall
(the metal between the engine and the driver). Search for them. They're
small and behind other stuff. I might add that other makes, including
Japanese cars, also sometimes have this problem (as well as vacuum
leaks).
==================================================================
************ Neon Troubleshooting ************
1. Clicking or air noise from the windows or doors OR water leakage
This is usually caused by a need for re-alignment of the window glass.
Your dealer will do it for free; if not, find another dealer. Never shut
the windows by the glass and you should be OK. As for water leakage, the
rear windows tend to lower themselves slightly over time; now and then,
make sure they're raised all the way. Some water leakage when going
through a car wash may be normal. Sometimes, wind noise may be caused
because the window has to be raised a little bit higher, which may take
additional effort.
2. Windows are hard to raise and lower
This is normal to a degree, but your dealer may be able to fix the
problem by lubricating some of the parts.
3. Turn signal doesn't return all the way to the center.
There is a technical service bulletin out on this; take it to the dealer
and tell them about TSB #8015094 Rev A.
4. Rattling from wheel well
Check the plastic cover in the wheel well. Some people have had a
plastic holder fall out; this causes the cover to bang while you're
driving.
5. Glovebox light stays on all the time
In some Neons, the glovebox light stays on all the time; it's a design
problem with the switch/door mating. You can fix it by gluing an
electrical box knockout to the glove box door on top of the existing
contact button.
6. Squeaky exhaust noise
Some people have been hearing a high-pitched noise from the exhaust; the
cause is a squeaky exhaust seal, presumably where the exhaust manifold
meets the exhaust pipe. The dealer replaced the following parts (cost
was covered under warranty):
qty description list net total
--- ----------------------------------- ------ ------ ------
(1) 4427779 Seal, ring-ring - none $17.25 $13.33 $13.33
(2) 4301631 Spring-exh pipe flg. 4.45 3.45 6.90
(2) 5217003 Bolt-mini-ox conv manif flg 2.70 2.08 4.16
(2) 6100499 Nut-exh manf to cyl hd stud 1.20 0.91 1.82
7. Hard to get into reverse: see #16 on the first list.
8. Sticking gas pedal
Steve Sheldon sez:
>This is noticable only when the heater/ac is on. When starting from
>standstill, the gas pedal kind of sticks. When the pedal is pressed far
>enough, the car would suddenly spurt forward.
I have tracked this down to the throttle mechanism inside the engine
compartment. It's not the pedal sticking, but the throttle. And it
seems to go away once the car warms up.
*********WHICH CARS ARE IN WHICH CATEGORY?**********
(this list is incomplete)
Modern: 600, Aries, Reliant, Duster, Sundance, Shadow, Spirit, Acclaim,
Daytona, Laser, Caravan, Voyager, Dakota, Ram, Charger, Turismo, O24,
Omni, Horizon, LeBaron, more
Classic: Valiant, Swinger, Dart, Duster, Demon, Fury, Monaco, Gran Fury,
Diplomat, Charger, Cordoba, 300 (all letters), Superbird, Roadrunner,
Satellite, Challenger, DeSoto, Barracuda, 'Cuda, (help me out here!)
Some cars overlap.
Mitsubishi/Joint Venture: Colt, Arrow, Sapparo, Talon, some Laser.
Ignition codes:
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)