Suspension parts for 300M with Performance Handling Package

[Percival P. Cassidy]

Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the years,
there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the Performance
Handling Package, so it looks as though I would need to get the genuine
Mopar ones. And the genuine ones can only be bought as separate items --
no complete "quick strut" assemblies. But that seems to mean buying the
genuine Mopar spring isolators/insulators as well, as the aftermarket
ones all seem to have the note "exc. Performance Handling Package" or
"w/o Performance Handling Package" -- different spring diameter?

That means compressing the springs to disassemble and reassemble the
strut assembly. Do AutoZone and the like lend tools (e.g., spring
compressors) if one is not buying parts for which the tool is needed?

Perce

[Rob]

yes.and rentals companies also rent them by the day


and there's this option as well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=spring+compressor





"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nob...@NotMyISP.net> wrote in message
news:luvdsa$jl5$1...@dont-email.me...

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the
> years, there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the

> Performance Handling Package (...)

Suggest you read this thread:

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=30576

I've summarized it below. Not terribly useful, except it tells you that
there is no difference (physically) in how php and non-php struts bolt
up to the car.

Most likely the only difference is the stiffness of the coil spring -
the php is likely has a larger diameter spring. If you have a good pair
of calipers and measure the diameter of the coil (the diameter of the
rod that is twisted to make the coil) I can do the same on the monroe's
that I have now, and also my originals (which I still have stored
away). If I remember, this diameter looked to be something like 1/2
inch or maybe 5/8 inch.

Unless you have some compelling reason to keep the stock stiffness of
the php (and you like the more jarring or harsh ride quality) then only
you can decide if it's worth it to combine what-ever parts are available
from the dealer and aftermarket and your existing struts (maybe top
bearing and spring) and put together a satisfactory simulation of the
original php strut.

I have a knocking sound (that I can also feel) that is coming from the
front driver's side tire when I drive over uneven pavement at city
driving speed. I have replaced:

- right lower control arm
- right tension strut and strut bushings
- right wheel bearing
- right and left front strut assemblies (Monroe Quick Strut)
- reworked / modified both front swaybar bushings
- right sway bar end-link (left link is maybe 5 years old)

I suspect that the top strut bearing is where the cause of the knocking
is, and that perhaps the Monroe quick-struts are somehow faulty. But I
had this knock previously with the original factory struts (but remember
that the right-side failed while driving).

The other possible cause are the front sub-frame isolation bushings,
and/or the engine mounts - neither are something that looks easy to
replace.

I haven't done anything with the steering arms / tie-rod end links.
They don't seem to be the cause of the knocking, and I detect no play or
looseness in steering.

=================
Q: What is the difference going to be in the struts anyway?

A: The difference is in the dampening. From what I've been told,
it's a stiffer ride, slightly less forgiving.

Q: Are they physically the same - as in non-PHG struts will bolt
in to a PHG vehicle?

A: Bolt in Yes, ride quality will be different between the two. As
our cars age OEM support is going away. Some OEM struts are
getting harder to get.

Q: So what struts should I get to replace mine?

A: OEM only if you want to maintain ride quality. Aftermarket struts
and mounts do not have a good track recors around here.
Some "search" and read recommended. (July 23rd, 2013)

A: Rock Auto had some moog quick struts with PHP or w/o PHP. In
either case, the bearings and top mounts have to be swapped
for OEM. so....

A: Technically there is no listing in the aftermarket for front
struts for PHP and Specials..... If it were me I would install
the blue Monroe Economatic quick struts. I put these in my
sons car about 15k ago and have had no issues. Another option
is OEM. Call Dealer with last 8 of you VIN and then try shopping
online dealers for better price

=========================

> That means compressing the springs to disassemble and reassemble
> the strut assembly. Do AutoZone and the like lend tools (e.g.,
> spring compressors) if one is not buying parts for which the tool
> is needed?

MacPherson Strut spring compressors are pretty cheap. I bought one for
$22 a couple years ago, and I see that Harbor Freight sells one for $15.

http://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-61654.html

That said, I've tried to disassemble my original struts, and while it's
easy to compress the springs with the compressor, I haven't been able to
undue the strut nut and actually take the thing apart. But eventually I
want to, because I want to check out the condition of the top strut
mounts and bearings and possibly re-use them on the monroe's I have now,
and see if that makes the knocking go away.

I have the factory service manual for the 300m in PDF format - do you
want me to give you a link to where you can download it?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 09/13/2014 12:46 PM, MoPar Man wrote:
> "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
>
>> Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the
>> years, there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the
>> Performance Handling Package (...)
>
> Suggest you read this thread:
>
> http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=30576
>
> I've summarized it below. Not terribly useful, except it tells you that
> there is no difference (physically) in how php and non-php struts bolt
> up to the car.
>
> Most likely the only difference is the stiffness of the coil spring -
> the php is likely has a larger diameter spring. If you have a good pair
> of calipers and measure the diameter of the coil (the diameter of the
> rod that is twisted to make the coil) I can do the same on the monroe's
> that I have now, and also my originals (which I still have stored
> away). If I remember, this diameter looked to be something like 1/2
> inch or maybe 5/8 inch.
>
> Unless you have some compelling reason to keep the stock stiffness of
> the php (and you like the more jarring or harsh ride quality) then only
> you can decide if it's worth it to combine what-ever parts are available
> from the dealer and aftermarket and your existing struts (maybe top
> bearing and spring) and put together a satisfactory simulation of the
> original php strut.

How well does mixing and matching work? E.g., stiffer sway bar with
not-so-stiff struts? And if I change the front struts for non-PHP ones,
would it be essential to change the rear ones as well?

Looking at a couple of online Mopar vendors' Web sites, I don't see
different kinds of spring insulators/isolators, so why would AutoZone
etc. say that the ones they sell are not for vehicles with the PHP?

I've bought some stuff from Hazard Fraught, but a strut spring
compressor is the kind of thing that could do nasty things if it gave
way while in use.

> That said, I've tried to disassemble my original struts, and while it's
> easy to compress the springs with the compressor, I haven't been able to
> undue the strut nut and actually take the thing apart. But eventually I
> want to, because I want to check out the condition of the top strut
> mounts and bearings and possibly re-use them on the monroe's I have now,
> and see if that makes the knocking go away.
>
> I have the factory service manual for the 300m in PDF format - do you
> want me to give you a link to where you can download it?

I already have the FSM, thanks. Maybe it was from you that I got it before.

Perce

[Rob]

I have the more expensive spring compressor listed on that web site, and it
works well, but it was only around 35 bucks when I bought it.. the cheaper
one is most likely what you will rent or borrow from someone else.

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nob...@NotMyISP.net> wrote in message

news:lv5b82$5rb$1...@dont-email.me...

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

(about replacing the front struts on his 300m)

So what did you end up doing about your struts?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/01/2014 08:46 AM, MoPar Man wrote:

> (about replacing the front struts on his 300m)
>
> So what did you end up doing about your struts?

I bought Moog strut assemblies but replaced the mounts and bearings by
OEM ones, since the gurus say that all the after-market assemblies use
identical left and right mounts whereas the OEM ones are different (same
component parts but assembled differently and distinguished by a white
paint blob on the RH one). I could definitely see that the Moog mounts
did not match the OEM ones. I haven't yet pulled the old strut
assemblies apart to get at the bearings to see if they are in fact still
good, but I know that some people reused theirs.

While I was about it, I replaced the inner and outer tie-rod ends and
the sway-bar links. It's all much quieter now. Even though I had counted
exposed threads on the tie-bar adjusters and used the same settings
again, it was visibly out of alignment at first, but I got it back
reasonably close then got a proper alignment done.

I bought the rear struts as well (also Moog), but they'll have to wait
for warmer weather.

Costco has my snow tires, but they aren't answering their phone for me
to make an appointment for installation.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> > So what did you end up doing about your struts?
>
> I bought Moog strut assemblies but replaced the mounts and
> bearings by OEM ones,

I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare to
come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?

Would the PHP and non-PHP be the same P/N for the mounts?

> since the gurus say that all the after-market assemblies use
> identical left and right mounts whereas the OEM ones are
> different (same component parts but assembled differently
> and distinguished by a white paint blob on the RH one).

Not sure if I follow.

Do you mean that a Moog quick-strut and Monroe quick-strut use the same
mounts?

Was there any reason you chose Moog over Monroe?

I assume you got the quick-strut (complete assembly with spring, ready
to install)?

You had some concerns about possible differences in spring stiffness
between your PHP and aftermarket - yes? How do you find the ride with
the Moog's ?

> I could definitely see that the Moog mounts did not match the
> OEM ones. I haven't yet pulled the old strut assemblies apart
> to get at the bearings to see if they are in fact still
> good, but I know that some people reused theirs.

How would / how could the mounts be so different? Wouldn't you end up
with a different ride-height if they were measurably different?

I don't get it. You were able to swap the Moog mounts with new OEM
ones, yet you say that the Moog mounts didn't match the OEM ones. If
they didn't match, how could you swap them?

How badly rusted were your original struts? Particularly the weld that
connects the lower spring mounting plate to the strut?

I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point, see if I
can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's I put on a couple
years ago. Can it be done by dropping the strut while it's still
connected to everything?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/08/2014 10:14 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

>>> So what did you end up doing about your struts?
>>
>> I bought Moog strut assemblies but replaced the mounts and
>> bearings by OEM ones,
>
> I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare to
> come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?

I bought them from wermopar.com -- but initially they sent identical
ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the
correct RH one.

> Would the PHP and non-PHP be the same P/N for the mounts?

I think so.

>> since the gurus say that all the after-market assemblies use
>> identical left and right mounts whereas the OEM ones are
>> different (same component parts but assembled differently
>> and distinguished by a white paint blob on the RH one).
>
> Not sure if I follow.

The mount consists of two steel parts riveted together with a rubber
part between them. The orientation of the rubber part determines whether
it is a LH or RH mount. Only visual inspection and the presence or
absence of the paint blob can distinguish them: the upper metal part
even has both part numbers on it, but one followed by "black" and the
other by "white". You didn't save your original mounts and bearings when
you installed the Monroe strut assemblies? They might still be/have been
usable.

> Do you mean that a Moog quick-strut and Monroe quick-strut use the same
> mounts?

I haven't seen the Monroe ones, but everything I have read says that
*all* the after-market mounts are the same for both sides. If you look
at any of the online vendors, you'll see that for any given make they
show only one mount -- no distinct LH and RH ones.

I've seen reports that the after-market mounts are worthless after only
months. Your Monroe ones apparently have lasted longer, but I relied on
what I had read. And I assumed that the Chrysler engineers had a good
reason to specify non-identical mounts.

> Was there any reason you chose Moog over Monroe?

The "gurus" said that the Moog ones are closer to the PHP ones from the
point of view of ride quality.

> I assume you got the quick-strut (complete assembly with spring, ready
> to install)?

Yes. But I had to take them apart to fit the OEM mounts and bearings.

> You had some concerns about possible differences in spring stiffness
> between your PHP and aftermarket - yes? How do you find the ride with
> the Moog's ?

They seem fine to me.

>> I could definitely see that the Moog mounts did not match the
>> OEM ones. I haven't yet pulled the old strut assemblies apart
>> to get at the bearings to see if they are in fact still
>> good, but I know that some people reused theirs.
>
> How would / how could the mounts be so different? Wouldn't you end up
> with a different ride-height if they were measurably different?
>
> I don't get it. You were able to swap the Moog mounts with new OEM
> ones, yet you say that the Moog mounts didn't match the OEM ones. If
> they didn't match, how could you swap them?

See above: there is no difference in height. The difference is in the
orientation of the rubber part, which I assume affects the seating of
the spring.

> How badly rusted were your original struts? Particularly the weld that
> connects the lower spring mounting plate to the strut?

They are pretty rusty, but nothing had actually failed. I've seen
pictures of some that failed completely, which had a serious braking
effect on the wheel: spring forces mounting plate against tire.

> I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point, see if I
> can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's I put on a couple
> years ago. Can it be done by dropping the strut while it's still
> connected to everything?

I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't be room
to get spring compressors in there or to get the old mounts out and the
new ones in.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> > I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare
> > to come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?
>
> I bought them from wermopar.com -- but initially they sent identical
> ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the
> correct RH one.

According to this:

http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/suspension-cat/shocks-and-struts-scat/nw992105-assy

-----------
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
Discontinued Part

No Longer Available For Purchase

Product Description

Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
#478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.
-----------

The right strut mount:

Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)

They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.

Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
if this would work on '00 300m.


Question:

The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and
bearing" to be two different parts.

But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different
parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR6pAu0cGCjpuCKvrbeGg4_4rW3t75AyLdWs1Zwa8-1GAq-w8IIvOxAQQ

So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with
4 bolts and a bearing).

The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks
like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did
you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?

From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe
quickstrut?

I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from
one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a
1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a
1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to
remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and
socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are
still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the
garage.

> > I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point,
> > see if I can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's
> > I put on a couple years ago. Can it be done by dropping the
> > strut while it's still connected to everything?
>
> I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't
> be room to get spring compressors in there or to get the old
> mounts out and the new ones in.

The way I see it:

- Jack the car up, take the wheel off, lower the hub so it
rests on a block of wood, let the weight of the car compress
the spring

- mount the spring compressors, tighten them up more if possible

- from the engine compartment, remove the strut nut, then
remove the 4 nuts holding the strut to the body

- jack the car back up to get some clearance, springs remain
compressed, but strut is now free to move down, maybe 6
inches at least?

- Now - with strut nut off, can strut mount be lifted off
and replaced with new OEM mount?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/09/2014 10:33 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

>>> I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare
>>> to come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?
>>
>> I bought them from wermopar.com -- but initially they sent identical
>> ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the
>> correct RH one.
>
> According to this:
>
> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/suspension-cat/shocks-and-struts-scat/nw992105-assy
>
> -----------
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
> Discontinued Part
>
> No Longer Available For Purchase
>
> Product Description
>
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
> a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
> Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
> #478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
> prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.

The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I
don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one.
However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand
one) were in fact the left-hand ones.

There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall
the names now. Try Google.

> The right strut mount:
>
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
>
> They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
>
> Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
> but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
> if this would work on '00 300m.

Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant
change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I
think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.

> Question:
>
> The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and
> bearing" to be two different parts.
>
> But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different
> parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:
>
> http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR6pAu0cGCjpuCKvrbeGg4_4rW3t75AyLdWs1Zwa8-1GAq-w8IIvOxAQQ
>
> So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with
> 4 bolts and a bearing).

The seats and bearings were separate. "Seat and Bearing Assembly":
68140264AA.

> The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks
> like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did
> you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?

I had read that some people had used Oxygen Sensor wrenches. I did
borrow one from AutoZone but then read the on-line reviews where some
people complained that they were somewhat fragile, so I didn't use it.
There are now "thru-sockets," such as the Craftsman "MaxAxess" (seem to
be rebranded GearWrench) and the Kobalt "Xtreme Access" from Lowe's. To
remove and replace the mounts on the Moogs I used a 1/2-in.-drive 22mm
thru-socket and 3-in. extension from Lowes and was able to get a
3/8-in.-drive 10mm socket inside to hold the end of the shaft -- but the
sequence is important: 22mm thru-socket, 10mm socket, 1/2-in. drive
thru-extension, and then insert the 3/8-in. drive extension. The Lowes
thru-sockets and extensions can be driven with a 7/8-in. box wrench or
crow-foot wrench, the latter allowing the use of a torque wrench. BUT
the protrusion on the OEM assemblies is less, so I may have to use a
1/4"-drive 10mm socket on the shaft nut.

> From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe
> quickstrut?

As far as I know, yes.

> I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from
> one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a
> 1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a
> 1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to
> remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and
> socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are
> still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the
> garage.

I haven't made much of an attempt so far to disassemble the old strut
assemblies to retrieve the old mounts, bearings and seats (more
particularly the latter two), and to relieve the spring pressure before
I donate them to the local rescue mission to sell as scrap (in case they
get the bright idea of trying to cut everything apart without relieving
the spring pressure first). At least one person cut through the shaft --
after compressing the springs -- but the shaft is hardened and a
metal-saw blade didn't make much of an impression on it: maybe an
abrasive cutting disc would work better.

>>> I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point,
>>> see if I can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's
>>> I put on a couple years ago. Can it be done by dropping the
>>> strut while it's still connected to everything?
>>
>> I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't
>> be room to get spring compressors in there or to get the old
>> mounts out and the new ones in.
>
> The way I see it:
>
> - Jack the car up, take the wheel off, lower the hub so it
> rests on a block of wood, let the weight of the car compress
> the spring
>
> - mount the spring compressors, tighten them up more if possible
>
> - from the engine compartment, remove the strut nut, then
> remove the 4 nuts holding the strut to the body
>
> - jack the car back up to get some clearance, springs remain
> compressed, but strut is now free to move down, maybe 6
> inches at least?
>
> - Now - with strut nut off, can strut mount be lifted off
> and replaced with new OEM mount?

I guess you could try it.

Perce

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/10/2014 02:36 PM, I wrote:

>> According to this:
>>
>> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/suspension-cat/shocks-and-struts-scat/nw992105-assy
>>
>>
>> -----------
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
>> Discontinued Part
>>
>> No Longer Available For Purchase
>>
>> Product Description
>>
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
>> a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
>> Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
>> #478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
>> prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.
>
> The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I
> don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one.
> However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand
> one) were in fact the left-hand ones.
>
> There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall
> the names now. Try Google.

If I choose the 2002 model on the wermopar.com Web site, it shows the
same mounts that they sold me as available, but if I click to show the
list of compatible models, they skip from 1999 to 2002. Strange! But
maybe there was an important change and then they changed back again.

If you enter your VIN on most of the genuine Mopar vendors' Web sites,
they'll show you the correct part number. And that's important because
there can be mid-year changes.

>> The right strut mount:
>>
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
>>
>> They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
>>
>> Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
>> but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
>> if this would work on '00 300m.
>
> Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant
> change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I
> think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.

BUT now see above.

I disassembled one strut assembly with little difficulty, but the nut on
the second one is so corroded that the 22mm socket just slips on it, and
I don't have a thru-socket the right size to grip it. Maybe it's time
to get out that abrasive wheel.

BTW, I broke a 1/4" extension on the first one, so be prepared.

Perce

[Percival P. Cassidy]

Both bearings and seats and the left-hand mount seem fine, although if I
were going to reuse the bearings (or *when* I reuse them, *if* I keep
the car long enough) I would clean them up and repack them with grease.
The RH mount is much more rusty, and in any case it's still attached to
a piece of the shaft, so it's going to the rescue mission as scrap along
with the rest.

Both jounce bumpers and shrouds also seem fine, but they're probably not
worth saving.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

I've just received something I ordered from ebay that claimed to be an
OEM left mount - Very Rare!

I'm not sure what I got was a genuine mopar part - maybe you can tell
me.

It appears to be just the mount (no bearing). It has a blue paper tag
on it attached with a wire tied to one of the mounting bolts. One side
of the tag must have had a sticker on it that was torn away, taking most
of that side of the tag with it. The other side has this:

--------------
Stock indentication tag
do not remove this tag or pick this piece for orders

Part no. 04782019AB (the PN number is hand written in pen)
Description (nothing written here except "1 PC")
Location
Sec. Bin.
Inspection O.K. 63552 <- written in pen
Date: 8-25-06
----------------

The part itself has 2 lines of text stamped into it on the surface where
the 4 mounting bolts stick up from:

04782019AB Black
04782018AB White 99201

There is no "MoPar" symbol, pentastar, etc, stamped into this part that
I can see. I have no idea what the terms "black" and "white" refer to.
The part itself is painted black.

So what do I have?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the pictures
in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is* a left-hand mount.
It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the original
one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar or Pentastar markings.

The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white paint
on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears" in a
different orientation.

BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I pointed
out that these particular mounts are not listed for 2000 and 2001
models? I assume they made a change for those years then changed back again.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the
> pictures in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is*
> a left-hand mount.

I'm looking at the diagram in the manual (ELH_2.pdf). Page 13. The
diagram (Figure 3 - Left Front Strut Upper Mount) has a serial number
(80b34e0d) printed under it. There are a couple of arrows pointing to
something indicated by #2 (Rubber tabs).

The part I bought off ebay does indeed have the rubber tabs as indicated
by the arrows, in the same relationship as the square hole (a Notch,
indicated by #1) near the outside rim of the mount (at the 10 0'clock
position according to the manual). My part does have this square hole
exactly as indicated. These tabs are almost exactly in-line with 2 of
the mounting studs (again matching the diagram).

> It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the
> original one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar
> or Pentastar markings.
>
> The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white
> paint on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears"
> in a different orientation.

Ah. My part has no white paint blob.

> BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I
> pointed out that these particular mounts are not listed for
> 2000 and 2001 models? I assume they made a change for those
> years then changed back again.

I sort of did notice that, and indeed the ebay page where I found my
part did have a pull-down selection menu that did say that this part was
not for a '00 300m. But other part-selector sites on the net did seem
to indicate that this part *was* for a '00 300m, so I took a chance and
bought it.

Regarding this ambiguity, did you ever look for what IS supposed to be
the part number for a '00 300m left strut mount if 04782019AB is not it?

Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know
about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?

Are there differences between left and right?

Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?

Also -

Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words,
will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/suspension-components-scat

Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.

> Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know
> about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?
>
> Are there differences between left and right?
>
> Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?

For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me the part
number, but yours could be different if the mounts are different, as
they appear to be.

> Also -
>
> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words,
> will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?

On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the body
of the strut.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/suspension-components-scat

> Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.

From your link, is this diagram (PNG image):

http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill3.php?d=d9839&i=101135555143070407121a1110101c1271&t=1419434871&make=

FRONT SUSPENSION/SUSPENSION COMPONENTS for 2000 Chrysler 300M

Parts are identified as 1 through 9. Can you explain why it appears to
separate the upper mount into 2 parts (7 and 9) ???

There is no way that I can see how the upper mount can be separated into
those 2 parts without destroying it. You will note that in the
accompanying parts list to the right of the diagram they do not list
part #7, and part #9 is referred to as "4782228AA / 4782233AA SPRING
INSULATOR LOWER / UPPER.

You will note that the diagram does not show the bearing or dust cover.

So they've screwed up the diagram. Part #7 is the upper mount, and Part
#9 is the spring insulator - but the upper insulator should be drawn
UNDER the upper mount - not above it.

And as I've just said above - they don't have the mount listed, and
therefore we don't know it's P/N.

**** HOWEVER ****

I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller
claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped
into it:

04782019AB Black
04782018AB White 99201

Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly
the same way).

And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on
the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those
numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE

Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.

I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He
removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft
from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the
upper mount.

Now Perce - explain this:

Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?

Can the bearing be bought separately?

> For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me
> the part number, but yours could be different if the mounts
> are different, as they appear to be.

What year is your 300m?

Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly
the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.

If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?

Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/24/2014 10:54 AM, MoPar Man wrote:

> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2000/chrysler/300m/base-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/suspension-components-scat
>
>> Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.
>
> From your link, is this diagram (PNG image):
>
> http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill3.php?d=d9839&i=101135555143070407121a1110101c1271&t=1419434871&make=

That link does not work for me, so I can't comment on your questions
about that diagram.

<snip>

> I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller
> claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped
> into it:
>
> 04782019AB Black
> 04782018AB White 99201
>
> Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly
> the same way).

Was there a change part-way through the model year?

>
> And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on
> the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those
> numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE
>
> Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.
>
> I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He
> removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft
> from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the
> upper mount.
>
> Now Perce - explain this:
>
> Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?

I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.

> Can the bearing be bought separately?
>
>> For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me
>> the part number, but yours could be different if the mounts
>> are different, as they appear to be.
>
> What year is your 300m?

Late 2002: Delivered May 1, 2002. Some parts, I have already discovered,
are the same as the '03 models rather than the earlier '02 models.

> Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly
> the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.
>
> If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
>
> Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?

Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots are separate.

If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the correct
part numbers for everything.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> > Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?
>
> I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.

OK.

So now that I've taken apart the original left strut, I can list the
part numbers for all parts. The dust boot is in great shape (no cuts or
scratches).

> > If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
>

> Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots
> are separate.

The only thing that looks like a P/N on the seat (the big black plastic
part) is 04782016.

Throwing that into google gives many pages like this one:

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/DODGE__/SEAT-AND-BEARING-Suspension-Strut/6964932/68140264AA.html

Where they specifically give this:

----------------------------------
Stock Code 68140264AA;04782016
----------------------------------

So I have no idea what "68140264AA" is for, or if it's interchangeable
for 04782016.

> If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the
> correct part numbers for everything.

I'll give that a try.

Just for the record, here's what my P/N's are:

Refering to Figure 64 on page 2-35 of the service manual, from top to
bottom:

Part 9 (Upper mount) - 04782019AB Black
- 04782018AB White 99201
Part 1 (seat and bearing)
- FAG RG 559342 SAE PASS GF33 2-2
- 04782016 Time-stamp wheel (see below)
Part 8 (upper spring isolator) - 4782233AA (foam)
Part 2 (dust shield) - 04782235AA SAE TEEE
Part 3 (cup) - 04782238AB 11 SAE PASS FAG 559374 CANADA
- plastic cup with large metal washer in bottom
Part 6 (jounce bumper) - 4782017 77484 BASF 31 (foam)

Time stamp wheel: looks like clock face with 99 in the center surrounded
by 12 sectors, with 6 of the sectors having a dimple (or 2 dimples)
stamped into them. Possibly indicating the part was made in June 1999?

I am really impressed with the durability of the high-density foam upper
spring isolator. I wouldn't have thought that a material like that
would have stood up over time to the forces applied to it without
eventually crumbling. I could clean away the grease and dig out some of
the rusted crust that came off the spring, and it would look almost new.

And this is something I don't get: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the
foam spring isolators and the plastic seat and the rather skimpy-looking
bearing races (and the tiny bearings!) - all those parts are basically
holding half the weight of the front of the car - and god knows how much
additional force when the car is manouvering, breaking or hitting pot
holes?

I can't believe that the skimpy-looking bearing races (and the tiny
bearings - about 2 or 3 dozen of them, maybe a tad larger than 1/8"
diameter) are durable enough to be exposed to what - a thousand pounds
of force at rest?

Did you get a new seat/bearing assembly? What holds the upper and lower
bearing races together? (mine can just be separated by hand with nothing
to hold them together).

> > Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
> > words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
> > a wire?
>
> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the
> body of the strut.

Hmmm.

With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the shaft into
the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let go it will naturally
extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over about a minute.

[MoPar Man]

You might find this interesting:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=186735&page=7

Starting around post 99.

I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.

I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the
washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of
the upper strut mounting studs.

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=25807&start=1350

And then there's this:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/401113-monroe-quick-strut-rattle-clunk-rod-assembly-nut-torque-issue.html

The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?

I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/26/2014 11:23 PM, MoPar Man wrote:
> You might find this interesting:
>
> http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=186735&page=7
>
> Starting around post 99.
>
> I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.
>
> I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the
> washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of
> the upper strut mounting studs.
>
> http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=25807&start=1350

I think they're referring to the shock absorber rod.

> And then there's this:
>
> http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/401113-monroe-quick-strut-rattle-clunk-rod-assembly-nut-torque-issue.html
>
> The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?
>
> I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.

If I understood correctly, the reports on the 300Mclub forum were not
just concerning noise but claimed that the whole assembly was shot after
a comparatively short time.

And if the OEM LH and RH mounts are different (and presumably for some
good reason), why do the after-market quick-strut assemblies use
identical ones left and right?

Perce

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 12/26/2014 10:32 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

>>> Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?
>>
>> I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.
>
> OK.
>
> So now that I've taken apart the original left strut, I can list the
> part numbers for all parts. The dust boot is in great shape (no cuts or
> scratches).
>
>>> If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
>>
>> Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots
>> are separate.
>
> The only thing that looks like a P/N on the seat (the big black plastic
> part) is 04782016.
>
> Throwing that into google gives many pages like this one:
>
> http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/DODGE__/SEAT-AND-BEARING-Suspension-Strut/6964932/68140264AA.html
>
> Where they specifically give this:
>
> ----------------------------------
> Stock Code 68140264AA;04782016
> ----------------------------------
>
> So I have no idea what "68140264AA" is for, or if it's interchangeable
> for 04782016.

I didn't look at number(s) on the seats. Presumably the seats and
bearing assemblies do have their own individual part numbers but are
sold only together as a set.

>> If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the
>> correct part numbers for everything.
>
> I'll give that a try.
>
> Just for the record, here's what my P/N's are:
>
> Refering to Figure 64 on page 2-35 of the service manual, from top to
> bottom:
>
> Part 9 (Upper mount) - 04782019AB Black
> - 04782018AB White 99201
> Part 1 (seat and bearing)
> - FAG RG 559342 SAE PASS GF33 2-2
> - 04782016 Time-stamp wheel (see below)
> Part 8 (upper spring isolator) - 4782233AA (foam)
> Part 2 (dust shield) - 04782235AA SAE TEEE
> Part 3 (cup) - 04782238AB 11 SAE PASS FAG 559374 CANADA
> - plastic cup with large metal washer in bottom
> Part 6 (jounce bumper) - 4782017 77484 BASF 31 (foam)
>
> Time stamp wheel: looks like clock face with 99 in the center surrounded
> by 12 sectors, with 6 of the sectors having a dimple (or 2 dimples)
> stamped into them. Possibly indicating the part was made in June 1999?
>
> I am really impressed with the durability of the high-density foam upper
> spring isolator. I wouldn't have thought that a material like that
> would have stood up over time to the forces applied to it without
> eventually crumbling. I could clean away the grease and dig out some of
> the rusted crust that came off the spring, and it would look almost new.

I don't recall how the upper spring isolators looked, but the lower ones
were definitely shot.

> And this is something I don't get: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the
> foam spring isolators and the plastic seat and the rather skimpy-looking
> bearing races (and the tiny bearings!) - all those parts are basically
> holding half the weight of the front of the car - and god knows how much
> additional force when the car is manouvering, breaking or hitting pot
> holes?
>
> I can't believe that the skimpy-looking bearing races (and the tiny
> bearings - about 2 or 3 dozen of them, maybe a tad larger than 1/8"
> diameter) are durable enough to be exposed to what - a thousand pounds
> of force at rest?

So each ball supports a comparatively small load.

> Did you get a new seat/bearing assembly? What holds the upper and lower
> bearing races together? (mine can just be separated by hand with nothing
> to hold them together).

I replaced both seat/bearing assemblies. Mine came apart too. I never
really thought about what keeps them together once they're installed.

>>> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
>>> words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
>>> a wire?
>>
>> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the
>> body of the strut.
>
> Hmmm.
>
> With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the shaft into
> the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let go it will naturally
> extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over about a minute.

So maybe there's a difference between the OEM and the Monroe ones.

Perce

[MoPar Man]

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> >>> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
> >>> words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
> >>> a wire?
> >>
> >> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into
> >> the body of the strut.
> >
> > Hmmm.
> >
> > With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the
> > shaft into the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let
> > go it will naturally extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over
> > about a minute.
>
> So maybe there's a difference between the OEM and the Monroe ones.

Ok, so what I've done today:

Took a 13/16" Craftsman sparkplug socket and drilled out the internal
3/8" hole to 1/2". The hole is formed by a short internal shoulder, but
still it was a real bear on my drill press and I had to take it in 1/32"
drill-size steps. This allowed a 3/8" extension to pass through the
socket. A 10 mm 6-sided 3/8" drive socket fits on the shock-rod, the
13/16" sparkplug socket on the rod nut, a short 3/8" drive extension
through the sparkplug socket, and a wrench on the sparkplug socket.

Even though I put the left Monroe quickstrut on exactly 2 years ago, I
was surprised by the amount of corrosion on the shock-rod threads. But
with penetrating oil and some effort I managed to free the strut nut and
work the threads with the nut to clean them. All this with the wheels
on the ground.

I didn't want to take the nut off completely - because of fear that the
rod might withdraw itself down into the strut and I'd be really
screwed. But looking at the height of the rod with the nut almost off
vs fully tight, the rod height doesn't change - so it doesn't have any
tendency to get pulled down. If true, then both the Monroe shock and
the factory original shock have some sort of gas-charge (or a weak
internal spring?) that gives them a natural tendency to extend the rod.

With the nut fully tight (as tight as I can make it, with no regard to a
torque wrench), I can turn the rod/nut pretty easily with the 10 mm
socket/wrench on the rod. Can turn it 360 degrees, multiple times. So
if the rod has any seating flats on it (like the Toyota problem) then
they're not making contact with anything. But nobody on the
chrysler/intrepid forums mentioned anything about the monroe strut rod
needing to be rotated into a seated position.

But still, the fact that I can rotate the tightened rod without much
effort - should I be able to? Is that where the extra washer comes in -
because they didn't put enough threads on the rod?

Looking down into the upper strut mount on the monroe I can see the 2
ears or flanges as mentioned in the service manual.

Regarding the early failure of the Monroe quick struts as mentioned in
the forums - those seem to have happened in 2010, and Monroe seems to
have known or learned about the failure and made some correction to
them. I installed my left quick strut in Dec 2012, and the right in Dec
2013.

So presumably my struts will not have the same issue that caused the
problems in 2010. Now whether they have this issue with the rod nut /
washer, if that is indeed a systemic issue - I don't know. I'd just
like to know if you're supposed to be able to turn the rod (by grabbing
the rod nut) in a normal situation.

A very small amount of play between the shoulder on the strut and the
lower surface of the strut mount would easily cause the knocking that
I've been feeling from that side since I put the strut on. I think by
tonight I'm gonna have an extra washer under that nut...