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rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6

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Dr. David Zatz

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May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1998/4/26
Version: 4.2

This section is generally revised every 120 days.

DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(val...@cyberwar.com = David Zatz).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -

CONTENTS

Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming
Important Chrysler folk

Part 2
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966

Part 3
Engine Codes
Info from the Center for Auto Safety
Classic Car Troubleshooting
Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

Part 4
Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage, stalling
Transmissions

Part 5
Funny noises
Oil leaks
Temperature stuff

Part 6
Troubleshooting (except what is covered by parts 3, 4, and 5)

Related FAQs:
Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list.

************************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ.

2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.

3. Do not confuse the Chrysler Corp with your dealership,
the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1,2) and the Web site.

5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.

************************************************************************
- Related Resources:

Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central Central
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/

* Highly recommended - over 200 pages of information!
* links to every known Mopar site
* Contains repair info too lengthy for the FAQ
* Also includes more information on dispute resolution

Mailing Lists

The Mopar Mailing List is performance/vintage oriented
Mo...@mopar.tamu.edu

Every-day Extended K-Car Family (EEK) mailing
list: to subscribe, send the word subscribe in the body
of a message to eek-r...@majordomo.net
(Shadow/Sundance/Acclaim/Spirit/Saratoga/E/Reliant/
Aries/600/LeBaron/Daytona/minivan/more)
-- for more info http://z.simplenet.com/cc/eek/

To subscribe to the new Mopar list, first get the rules:
send a blank message to mopar...@lists.fiber.net
or visit http://www.fiber.net/mopar/mopar-rules.html

To subscribe to the Neon mailing list, send 'subscribe'
in the body of a message to neon-r...@iastate.edu

To subscribe to the Imperial mailing list, send mail to
Imper...@aol.com and ask to be added.
Or try http://members.aol.com/xxltony/imperial-mailing-list.html

To subscribe to the Jeep mailing list, send 'subscribe Jeep-l'
in the body of a message to list...@knuth.mtsu.edu

To subscribe to the AMC/Jeep mailing list,
visit http://www.amxfiles.com/amc-list.html

To subscribe to the Dodge Dakota mailing list,
send a message to dakota-...@csclub0.cs.fredonia.edu
with subscribe [or subscribe digest] in the subject line.

To subscribe to the Dodge truck mailing list, send the word
SUBSCRIBE to ramtruck...@vcs.org
For info, try http://www.rswilson.com

The Simca Car Club of America is at
US.SIMCA...@centuryinter.net

Phone Numbers

1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-626-1523 free catalog of service bulletin books,
owner manuals, service manuals, MasterTech newsletters, videos.
1-800-677-5782 your local 5-Star Dealer
1-800-255-9877 For adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
1-800-998-1110 Neon Racing Headquarters
1-248-853-7290 Mopar Performance *technical* hot line
ONLY for Mopar Performance issues!!!
1- 314-725-7181 Lambros Racing
800 878 2237 Metro Moulded Rubber (612 757 0310)
Chrysler Electronics (direct source for computers, etc)
205 464 1200 / 800 448 0944
(202) 328-7700 Center for Auto Safety lawyer referral

Other Resources

Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6

Chrysler Corp Customer Center or Dealer Agreements
Box 302, Centerline, MI 48015!
Send complaints here, but call 800 992 1997 first

Chrysler Europe NV
Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe
CEO is Timothy Adams
Human Resources Director is Mrs. Veerle VanCauteren

Chrysler Import Deutschland GmbH
Chrysler Str. 1
D- 50170 Kerpen (Germany) (02273) 957-0

Year One: http://www.yearone.com/
A reputable supplier known for service and accuracy.

Forward Motion (mostly front wheel drive) is at 717-456-
6038; $5 for catalog to RR1, Box 249A, Delta PA 17314

Lemon-Aid Used Car Guide by Phil Edmonston

"Car Secrets" book - lots of money-saving tips for repairs,
restorations, new car buying and leasing, some
errors. http://www.igs.net/carsecrets/info78.html

Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo 1928-1970)
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220

R/T registry: write to Cliff Ramsdell or Lorraine
10 Brainard Road, Enfield, CT 06082

Mopar Restos (parts), Route 1 Box 307-39.
Summerville, GA 30747, (706)857-2832

Standard Catalog Of Chrysler, book, 800-258-0929

Newsgroups
rec.autos.makers.chrysler
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys
wiz.mopar
alt.hi-po.mopars
alt.hi-po.mopars.neon
alt.autos.dodge.trucks
others in rec.autos.*

Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy, but
Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup (rec.autos.vw).
GM has a group not for GM as a whole but for one marque (Saturn).
Ford has TWO groups not for Ford but for individual models.

************************************************************************
Get the most recently posted copy of the FAQ at
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/faq.html
************************************************************************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.
*************************CONTENTS*****************************

This is divided into corporate and car sections.

I. CORPORATE

1. What does CC mean? Chrysler Corporation.

2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997

3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?

They don't have one. The explanation from a Customer Center manager (late
1995):
If people have a problem with the Customer Center, the dealer will tell
Chrysler
about it. Of course, you can always write to complain about the Center. Oops,
all mail addressed to any executive or even vaguely customer-related manager
goes to the Customer Center!

7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishi engines?

The 2.7 and 3.2 may eventually replace the MMC 2.5.
A 3.7 liter truck engine is also in the works.
Mitsubishi uses the CC 2.0 in the base Eclipse.
BMW/Rover and Chrysler are working together on new
1.4 and 1.6 liter engines for export. Chrysler will likely
sell Mitsubishi-made Sebring/Avengers past 2000; they now
sell 45% of MMC's Diamond Star output.

8. What's the deal with Chrysler's names in Canada and elsewhere?

Same names, different cars. Different names, same cars.

9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?

See the discussion at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/cr.html.

10. How can I get help for problems CC won't acknowledge or fix?

See the discussion at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/trouble.html.
Read the Lemon-Aid Guide (by Phil Edmonston).
Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Write to the Center for Auto Safety or NHTSA.

11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?

Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes/Sunbeam until the late 70s, but
sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
(Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
For more Simca info write to US.SIMCA...@centuryinter.net

12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful?

Perpetual contracts. Organizational culture. Incorrect
assumptions at all levels. Zone officials who think
all customers are whiners and all dealers are honest.

13. What is Chrysler doing about it?

New Five Star program which requires better processes to be
in place and does not rely solely on survey ratings. This new
program should help to bring Chrysler dealers out of the dumps
(CR surveys have CC dealers moving from about average to near the
bottom of the barrel).

********

14. Should I use high octane gas?

Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a
bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.

20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)

The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well
as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless."
The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully). For more details:
http://www.tfb.com/sdmc/oil.html

21. Do I have a Chrysler (CC) or Mitsubishi (MMC) engine?

See part 2.

22. What should my tire pressure be? (FWD)

For front wheel drive, maximum pressure in the front (for
handling) with normal pressure in the rear (for ride). This gave
me good results with my Shadow (35/32). Different cars have
different pressures; some are higher and some may be lower.

23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?

* DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
* SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
* EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
* TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
* MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in the
intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. These are smoother than
TBI systems, and have more power *and* better mileage.
* SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
* Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
This is mainly used in Diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
-- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
SMPI. The last CC TBI was the US-spec 2.5 liter engine
last made in 1995 (in 1996 the Dakota switched to an unrelated
AMC-based 2.5 engine).

25. What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine?

On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for
2.0, 2.2, and 2.5 liter non-turbo engines, for winter or
year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey.
All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30!
- In 1993 Chrysler said 5W30 was best for all its engines.
- Dan Stern says synthetic 10W30 is better than natural 5W30.
- The benefits of 5W30 or synthetics seem greatest in cold
weather when oil is most viscous (before the engine warms).

A 1998 minivan owners manual recommended 5W30 for all engines.
Minivan engines are the 2.4, 3.0, 3.3, and 3.8.

Use Energy Conserving II and SH grades where possible.

For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500
miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles.

** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing
your antifreeze every three months to get easy money. If
you exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do the easy work yourself.

PS> Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing
means your mechanic didn't purge the system correctly.
Be careful to thoroughly purge the system of air bubbles -
or invest in head gaskets.

26. What kind of engine do I have ???

Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
will tell you the displacement of the engine.

27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?

Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by CC; and some restrict it to
high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.

28. Which are the Diamond Star models?

Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
MMC. The Avenger/Sebring and Talon/2.0 Laser/Eclipse are
the only DSM models. The Stealth used some Chrysler technology
but was mostly Mitsubishi - and was all Japanese. The Colt,
Sapparo, FWD Challenger, and Ram 50 were re-badged Mitsubishis.

29. What are the K-cars?

Herb DaSilva:
... CC used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
The minivan is only loosely based on the K platform. (Executive
and Limousine were low-production extended-Ks, and the CSX
was a performance Sundance/Shadow).
There is a mailing list for these cars at
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/eek/

30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?

See Part 3 of this FAQ.

32. How often should I change my trans fluid?

Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated primarily in one of those conditions.
Not occasionally.

Mopar 3-speed automatic transmissions need to have oil
and filter changed when the oil gets discolored due to suspended
solids. ATF usually does not need to be changed unless
contaminated. The trans oil can get contaminated by overheating or
by severe internal wear due to abuse, especially towing.
I have never changed the oil in any of my automatics and
never have had a failure. My 1979 Volare has 167,000 miles on the ATF
and is still working the same as when new. (Mostly from Robert Muir).

4-speed automatic transmissions should have their ATF
changed every three years or so. It MUST be replaced
with Mopar ATF, NOT Dexron. SOME CHRYSLER TRANSMISSIONS WILL
BE DESTROYED IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID.

Note: Even some 3-speed CC transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!! (The defining factor
seems to be the torque converter).

Dan Stern writes that Mopar ATF+2 Type 7176 works better than
Dexron even in transmissions that call for type A or Dexron fluid.

The new ATF+3 should work even better, from what we have heard.

34. What kind of gas should I use?

Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand you
have had good with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.

35. Are minivans unsafe? What about the latches?

Lloyd R. Parker (reworded):
The latch issue was mainly not using seat belts or unfastened seats.
Lloyd said the Ford Aerostars, with the supposedly better latches,
had a higher rate of ejections through the hatch. There were five
million vans and not many ejections in that time. Chrysler is
replacing the latches for free.

36. What about lemons?

To quote the rec.autos FAQ --
every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda
admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to
the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.

37. Are K&N filters worth it?

David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.

K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.

In my case [editorial] I like the sound and not having to replace the
filter all the time when the 2" circle of contact becomes clogged.

38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS?

Don't rely on it. ... Marv Miller suggests
replacing the brake fluid every 2-4 years regardless of car make.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.

39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?

Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3 Type
7176 is usually the bst one to use with automatic transmissions.

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue. Please see the
discussion at the end of this part of the FAQ.

40. Which is larger - Windstar, or Caravan/Voyager?

Before the 1996 redesign this was an issue. Now, the Grand
Caravan/Voyager is much larger than the Windstar. Its closest
competitor is the Chevy Venture. The Windstar is about the
same size inside as a base Caravan/Voyager.

41. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about?

These had the Bendix ABS-10: (Thanks, G. Smith)
90-93 C body (Dynasty/New Yorker)
90-93 Y body (Imperial)
91-92 BB body (Premier/Monaco - Renault imports)
91-93 S body (Minivans - Caravan/Voyager)

Chrysler has now extended the warranty to 100,000 miles

42. Should I buy a Chrysler product in its first six months of production?

Only if you're a mechanic with a sense of adventure. Really.

43. Now that the new V-6 and V-8 engines are here, what will happen
to the old ones?
- Will the minivans have the new engines?

In their first year, the new V-6 engines are destined solely
for the new LH cars. The cloud cars will get them with their
next redesign around 1998. No word has been given on the minivans,
which will probably keep the same engines until their redesign
around 2001. The old 5.2 and 5.9
(318 and 360) will probably stay around, especially the 5.9
The new engines, while more fuel efficient and
less polluting (TLEV standard), are also more expensive to
produce, according to Automotive News.
There is a 3.7 liter V-6 on the horizon and a 4.7 V8 shortly going
into the 1999 Grand Cherokee.

86. All other questions.

Check the ballast resistor, vacuum hoses, and computer codes.

******************* UP AND COMING ******************

** NEW NEONS **

The Neon will be redesigned for 1999. Forget the 1.4/1.6 liter
engine previously rumored - they seem to be for another project,
a minicar which may or may not be Neon-based (Pronto Spyder?).
A larger engine - supercharged or 2.4 - has been rumored, as has
a shorter wheelbase for export sales. Speculation: two versions,
as with the LH - mini and maxi Neon.

** NEW JEEP TRANSMISSION **

Chrysler sources say it won't be used in trucks, just Jeeps.
It will have five speeds. http://z.simplenet.com/cc/mopar/47.html

*********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID **********************

The FAQ maintainer notes that many people have destroyed their
transmissions by
using the wrong fluid. Some people have had bad transmission problems go away
when they changed the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations to the letter.
Ignore the alternative fluid (as in "if Mopar is unavailable, use...").

Wayne Toy advises:

Chrysler recommends that only ATF+2 Type 7176 (PN 4467721) be used
in all Chrysler automatic transmissions with locking torque converters.
Substituting any other fluid can lead to problems. (They may now
recommend ATF+3).

7176 allows more slippage than other friction-modified fluids. Shifting and
engagement of the torque converter cluch (TCC) in virtually all Chrysler
automatics is controlled by the transmission control module (TCM) based on a
variety of inputs including throttle position, engine speed, input and output
speed, and others. The result is that the TCM "learns" characteristics of
individual transaxles. The lock-up torque converter must be
unlocked, partially locked, or fully locked. In partial
lock, a regulated amount of slippage is allowed. If the
wrong fluid is used, the TCM can't regulate the slippage
in partial lock, the result being converter clutch shudder. Therefore,
use only 7176 in all (modern) Chrysler automatics.

Dan Stern says Type 7176 has better high-temperature stability and is
generally superior.

Note: Quaker State makers a 7176-specification trans fluid.

*********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********

- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER

COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.

BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.

Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.

RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.

As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.

This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.

In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.

Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.

CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.

(end of FAQ part 1)

*********************** IMPORTANT CC FOLK ***********

Chrysler Corporation, 1000 Chrysler Drive, Auburn Hills, MI 48326-2766

This list was provided by a customer, not a staffer:
Robert Eaton, Chairman and CEO - CIMS 485-15-30
James Holden, Exec VP of Sales and Marketing, CIMS 485-15-62
Thomas G. Denomme, Vice Chairman and CAO, CIMS 485-15-10
Bob Johanas, National Customer Relations Director
Caron Meako, Admin to Bob Johanas
Joan Smith, Supervisor and Manager to Call Center
Dionne Hopkins, Senior Staff (Customer Complaint Department)
Lori Johnson, Senior Staff (Customer Complaint Department)
Chrysler Customer Center, CIMS 429-03-03

--
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ is Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central
http://z.simplenet.com/od/ is the Organizational Development Home Page

Dr. David Zatz

unread,

May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1998/3/15
Version: 4.1a

This section is generally revised every 120 days.

PART II

*************************CONTENTS*****************************

What should I do...
1. ... before I post?

2. ... about spammers? (Internet junk-mailers)
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)

Oil Filter Discussion

List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s

2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)

List of All Body Styles Since 1966

***********************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.

2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.

3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.

***********************************************************************
WHAT TO DO WITH SPAMMERS

Brought to our attention by katy...@UCLA.EDU and originally written by
Dr. Yvette Huet-Hudson. Edited by the FAQ maintainer.

The person responsible for the spam is probably not subscribed to the
newsgroup, and thus any response back to the newsgroup, will fail to
reach the offender.

An appropriate response is to forward a single copy to the person in
charge of the site from which the spam originated ("POSTMASTER", "root",
etc.),
pointing out that the spammer is probably violating appropriate use
policies.

It is inappropriate to attempt to flood the spammer's mailbox with mail
in response. This is probably in violation of your network's policies,
and it wastes bandwidth.

We would like to propose the following guidelines for reacting to
unwanted solicitation on or off your newsgroups:

1.Do not flame on the newsgroup! The spammer is probably not
subscribed, so you would just be adding to the noise level.

2.Remember the name of the company that sent you the ad, and make sure
never to buy anything from them. Call their corporate headquarters and
let them know how much you were upset by the spam. In many cases, the
companies whose products are featured in the spam acted out of ignorance
and genuinely did not know that this form of advertisement was not
appreciated. Educating them will make the spam company lose a customer.

3.Do not bother flaming the spammer. By the time you read the spam, his
account will already have been closed, assuming it isn't a bogus
account to start with. At any rate, the spammer will not bother reading
people's indignant replies. Spammers are usually well aware of what
they are doing, and are totally indifferent to your feelings. Replying
is just a waste of your time.

4.Do not flame the service provider. It is easy to say "You shouldn't
be allowing people like XXXX to get an account!", but it is impossible
to implement in practice.

All you need to spam millions of people is a free 10-day trial diskette
from any major online provider. There are unscrupulous people on the
Internet, just as there are in the rest of the world, and there isn't
much anyone can do about it, because until they speak up they're just an
e-mail address like any other.

5.Do not press the service provider for assistance in "tracing" the
spammer. In most countries it would be unlawful for them to release
this kind of information to you.
However, the spammer probably provided a snail-mail address or phone
number in his message, or some other contact point to place orders. If
you really want to find out more about him, this is a good starting
point, and it places you squarely in the realm of real world law.

6.If you want to inconvenience the spammer in retaliation for the
inconvenience you have suffered, do not do it over the Net! Mail-bombing
the provider's
address will inconvenience the provider, not the spammer, and in most
cases the
provider is a victim, just like you. It's going to cost them thousands
of dollars in wasted manpower just to discard all the flamage they will
receive. Instead, use the real world contact info that was provided with
the advertisement. This will reach the spammer, because this is where
he is hoping to receive the checks.

7.When accusing people or companies in public, check your facts
carefully before pressing the SEND button. Remember how spamming works:
the spammer abuses the computer resources and manpower of hundreds of
thousands of sites worldwide to deliver his advertisement. The victims
are you, us, and just about everyone on the Internet. Yes, even people
whose name or hostname is mentioned in the mail header are likely to be
victims; spammers have no qualms about forging mail, and even when they
don't, it still doesn't mean the parties involved had knowledge of the
spammer's activities and will share the profits.

The last thing you need, when you have just spent four hours answering
spam complaints from (other) victims, is to see a message where someone
accuses you and/or your employer and suggests that you should be shot
for the public good, or at least that someone should send the FBI to
your house, with messages suggesting more barbaric forms of punishment.

Such messages are taken seriously by some of the people they target and
may result in serious psychological trauma. They may also result in a
lawyer or police officer giving you a phone call. So far spamming has
yet to result in human death; please, let's keep it this way.

***********************************************************************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
***********************************************************************

(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)

* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.

* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally defensive; and what they know about customers and customer
service would fit into a microscope slide. The Customer Center reps also
often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help. If
all else fails, call back and speak to someone else. Always take down
their name for your reference!

* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.

* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
(Daniel Adams notes that Chrysler sometimes extends transmission
warranties to 100,000 miles; there are extended warranties on some a/c
parts and ABS systems).

* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.

* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than
you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes

* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!

* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.

* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.

* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY WILL NOT. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).

* Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.

****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)

* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.

1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!

2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.

* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.

* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
(buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.

* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.

*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
may not help anyone else, either).

* If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/fix/surveys.html.

* If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.

************************************************************************

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?

Note: you are strongly advised to also visit the Troubleshooting
section (part 4). If a problem is noted, with no
solution, the solution is listed in the Troubleshooting section.

ENGINES

2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
-- head gasket failure (possibly due to heavy use)
Any 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine:
-- oil leaks from the valve cover gasket (over the spark plugs) and oil
pan.
-- oil seeping into airbox or air hose
-- poor idle from any number of causes (see part 5)
Any Mitsubishi engine
-- high oil consumption
-- replace the timing belts on time!
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- replace the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Check your timing, it may have been set wrong at the factory.
-- Other problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was
recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been reports of malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5
caps).

TRANSMISSIONS

4-speed automatic
-- 1989-94: watch for early failure and press Chrysler to pay for all
repairs.
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
The right fluid for post-1988 transmissions is Type 7176 (Dan Stern)
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer replaced if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (Note: 1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- Chrysler has informally extended some transmission warranties due
to earlier
problems.
-- AGAIN, USE TYPE 7176+ ONLY! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!

5-speed manual transmission, pre-1994 (non-MMC):
-- Seepage from the transaxle is common. CC may fix it for free
even if out of warranty. Then again, they may not.

BRAKES

All cars (all companies) -- watch for early wear on brake pads due to
sticking calipers. Also watch for warped or heavily corroded rotors,
which appears to have become a common problem on Chrysler products,
especially trucks. See the Web site at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/
starting in mid-October.

If warped rotors are a problem, several people have recommended
aftermarket parts instead of Mopar rotors.

ABS
-- 1990-93 Bendix systems (all brands) may have early problems.
On Chrysler products, the trouble-prone ABS-10 was on minivans,
New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Imperial, Eagle Premier, Dodge
Dynasty, and Dodge Monaco.
*** There has been a RECALL on these systems and the warranty
on them has been extended to 100,000 miles, according to reports.
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 2-4 years.
See the Web site at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/

CARS

Shadow-Sundance-Duster:
-- water leaks in the rear hatch
-- loose screws attaching plastic trim to hatch -> rattling
-- engine mount failure leading to creaking/cracking noise
-- speedometer temporary failure due to connection problems
at the speed sensor (through 1991)
-- door rust
-- 1990: rear axle hangars. Symptom: rattling.

Neon -- see the Neon FAQ.
-- whining noise from the computer for 3-4 minutes after the engine
is shut, periodically, is normal.
-- engine light comes on: see Computer Codes, part 3.

Grand Cherokee -- JBRI...@compuserve.com says
the GC rotors are prone to rust. If you live in a salt-prone
winter area, wash the INSIDE of the rotors withi a pressure
wash when you wash your vehicle in the winter!

LH (Intrepid, Concorde, LHS, Vision, New Yorker)
-- premature a/c failure. Chrysler has an extended 7/70 warranty
on the LH evaporators.

Ram trucks
-- watch for rotor problems

PAINT COLORS

Metallic paints are more prone to problems.
Blue seems to be more prone to problems.
Red is known for fading and peeling.
Get white if you want paint that actually stays on the car.
Note: this applies to all brands of cars and trucks.
There is a paint problem FAQ you may be interested in - it's referenced
at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/autolinks.html

******************** OIL FILTER DISCUSSIONS *********************
Removed due to age, except Dan Stern's notes:
Don't forget to mention the Fram 2.2/2.5 filter debacle, where Fram
thought it would be a neat idea to economize by making the filter
element
just a bit shorter inside the can, blocking off the end of the oil
intake
pipe and causing failure of scores of 2.2 and 2.5 Chrysler engines.

Also note that the relatively new Chrysler MoPar Severe Use filter, #
53020311, is a very high quality filter that fits Slant-6s, V8s, and
most 2.2 and 2.5 engines.

******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://z.simplenet.com/cc/cr.html
***********************************************************
>From Lloyd Parker:
**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
4-cylinders: (MMC=Mitsubishi, VW=Volkswagen)

1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/BMW) - in development, export only, for new minicar
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/BMW) - in development, export only, for new minicar
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC)* -- Neons outside the US
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC * -- Neon
2.0 DOHC * -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5* (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)

2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
----------------------------------
V-6:

2.5* (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7*- LH series (1998+)
3.0* (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.2*- LH series (1998+)
3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions)
3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, minivans
3.9* trucks
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX:

2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer
----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES

(flat head) - various shapes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0* (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler

The Australian straight sixe was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.

----------------------------------
V-8s:
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7 (not set) -- 1999 Grand Cherokee
5.2* (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner
5.9* (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird

----------------------------------
8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)

Gary Howell <gho...@mail.miworld.net> clarifies:

** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
There is now an A/LA page at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/318.html

273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore

The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.

277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke

The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
except the oil
passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.

(A/LA Web page: http://z.simplenet.com/cc/318.html)

** Big Blocks **

There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.

B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440

All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.

***********************************************************
NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS

(Courtesy Daniel Adams <dad...@sccoast.net>)

On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE), the numbers and letters actually
mean something:

4 amount of forward gears
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
t or r transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic

The 1999 Grand Cherokee will have an optional 5-speed automatic.

***********************************************************
BODY TYPES

(Below list courtesy Lloyd R. Parker)

A -- Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Scamp, Duster, Lancer, Demon, Twister
B -- Coronet, Charger, Magnum, Monaco, Premier, Belvedere, Satellite,
GTX, Road Runner, Fury, Cordoba
C -- Polara, Monaco, Fury, VIP, Gran Fury, Newport, 300, Town & Country,
New Yorker, Imperial, Dynasty
D -- Talon, (Plymouth) Laser
E -- Barracuda, Challenger, 600, Caravelle, E-Class, New Yorker
F -- Aspen, Volare
G -- Daytona, (Chrysler) Laser
H -- Lancer, LeBaron (hatchback)
J -- LeBaron (coupe/convertible), Cordoba, Imperial, Mirada
K -- LeBaron, Executive, Limousine, Aries, Reliant, 400, 600
L -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
M -- Diplomat, LeBaron, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Gran Fury, Caravelle
(non-US)
P -- Shadow, Sundance, Duster
Q -- TC by Maserati
R -- St. Regis, Gran Fury, Newport, New Yorker
S -- Town & Country, Caravan, Voyager
Y -- New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial
AA -- LeBaron (sedan), Spirit, Acclaim, Saratoga (non-US)
LH -- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision
PL -- Neon
JA -- Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible
FJ -- Sebring, Avenger (based on MMC Galant)
SR -- Viper
XJ -- Cherokee, Wagoneer
YJ -- Wrangler
ZJ -- Grand Cherokee, original Grand Wagoneer
SJ -- Grand Wagoneer
PJ - Talon (based on MMC Galant)
- Durango

--
Dr. David Zatz - Director of Market Research - Pace University

Dr. David Zatz

unread,

May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part3
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1998/2/9
Version: 4.2a

Modifications and detailed fixes are at the web site -
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/

See the very last part of this section for reading ESA computer codes
without a scan tool! Useful for those without the key-turn-watch-light feature
(e.g. 1985 Caravans) -- and those with it!

Contents:
1. Engine Codes
2. Info from the Center for Auto Safety
3. Classic Car Troubleshooting
4. Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
5. Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

DISCLAIMER:
While effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the

information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for

damages resulting from the use of the information.
The information may be reproduced IF
credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; and that it is not
published without the prior written

permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without

needing to ask, a free copy of the final material; and that no changes
are made without the express permission of

the maintainer (val...@cyberwar.com = David Zatz).
- - - - - - - - - - - -

The latest copy may be obtained from http://z.simplenet.com/cc/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -

FAQ for rec.autos.makers.Chrysler - Part III

********************************************************
COMPUTER CODES

THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or the
"troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section.

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a
two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH FLASH
FLASH <loong pause>

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning.

When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In
mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure.

*** NOTE - 1998 CHANGE ***

1998 and later models may use the following system instead:

(Thanks to the US Navy's Theodore M. Farabee)

Simultaneously depress the trip reset and trip/odometer switches,
and, while holding them, turn the ignition to ON/RUN, and wait about 5
seconds. This sends the car through a short self-test sequence that
lights all segments of the odometer and shift selector read-out
(where applicable). It will then display the stored error codes.

***

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete
listing. (From Herb with additions by Charles Hobbs. Basis: Mopar Mailing List
info.)

* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light.

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth;
OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
- Fraser Shortt said code 12 appeared with some other codes
in 1989 and possibly later computers as well.
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V

NOTE - on early Neons, a computer error may light the Check Engine light and
show one or more of these codes. If this happens, bring it in so the dealer
can
reprogram the computer (about ten minutes).

15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)

21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V)
Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range
- May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
(need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
(SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections

31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in
air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated
- check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
(may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temparature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)

41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (lean condition)
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes

61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

88 Start of test (not given on most computers)

NOTE #1.

The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air
temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field
current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose
voltage
is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored
when
the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan
Bodnar

NOTE #2

>From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a
transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't.
This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -- J.E. Winburn

NOTE #3

Matt Rowe <st92...@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu> comments: The throttle
postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed.
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on
the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should
have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault
codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try
to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

NOTE #4

During cranking, the computer will test the current through the
injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's
path. If there is, code 26 is set.
The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.
For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between
0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold
injector. With the engine idling the
peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period
will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or
there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)

NOTE #5

Wade Goldman wrote: In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic
converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the
sensor
to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability
of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of
replacing the converter, breather tube and all.

NOTE #6

The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown
relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed
to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power
module
and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the
ignition
coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case,
it's
a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine
whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and,
therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and
current
sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power
module.
I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the
ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using
the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to
300
mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power
module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the
priming
pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the
circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks,
bbo...@lucent.com)

***********************************************************
CHRYSLER INFO from CENTER FOR AUTO SAFETY

This is a summary, contact CAS at 2001 S Street NW, Washington, DC 20009 for
more info. Provide a self-addressed, 55 cent stamped envelope and, if you
like,
a donation. Comments in parentheses are editorial remarks. Further information
is available on the 1989-91 4-speed automatic transmission.

>From a request sent in 1996.

* FIRES - recalls on 1985-87 turbo models for bad fuel hose connections.
check & yours! [FAQ maintainer comment]
* VALVE COVER GASKETS on 1989-90 FWD models
* FIRES - fuel reservoir leaks on 87-89 Omni/Horizon.
* STALLING - Omni/Horizons mostly, drivability kits issued (2.6?)
* TIMING CHAINS - 1981-86, 2.6 liter engine.
* POWER STEERING - various FWD models (including minivans), 1981-89.
Problems in Saginaw & TRW steering units. TSB 19-01-83.
* SUSPENSION: 1981-83 K-cars, front crossmember corrosion.
* SEATS - 1985 Laser, LeBaron, 600, Lancer, Daytona power driver's seat
attachment failure.
* PARK - in column-mounted trans -- 1981-90 -- investigation closed.
* BRAKES - 1978-92 models, rear brake lockup and master cylinder
failure. Pressure may get repairs out of warranty.
- ABS in many 1991 vehicles: recalled
- ABS in 1992 minivans: - recalled
* SEAT BELTS: all 1991 models (recalled), 1988-89 P (recalled)
* A/C: clutch failure, 1985-86 4-cylinder models. 2 TSBs in those years.
* TRANSMISSION: 1989-91 models with 4-speed auto are unreliable.
1992-94 models may also have problems.

**************** CLASSIC CAR TROUBLESHOOTING ****************
(1950s-some 80s)

C1. Won't start (dz...@ny2.pace.edu <Dave>):

Check the ballast resistor. It's a little white block attached to the
metal between the engine and the driver, with a single bolt; wires plug
into each side. It's easy to replace and under $5.

If the starter makes a rapid clicking noise, your battery may be worn, even if
you can see your headlights.

If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use
silicone spray or "wire drier" or, better yet, replace your wires with
really good ones ($25-40 mail order). These will probably improve your gas
mileage and power as well.

Dan Stern adds: Whitaker's Multi-Mag comes in the same colors and
insulation materials as original, but uses the spiral-wound
construction that you find in wires such as Accel and Jacobs. Lower
resistance, but no irritating radio noise. They have a lifetime guarantee
and don't cost more than regular carbon-string type wires. The
Slant-6 wire set (32605 for pre-75) has the correct 1-piece moulded
plug boots. They are also sold under the Borg Warner/BWD KoolWire name.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C2. Anything from pollution to loss of power (dz...@ny2.pace.edu <Dave>)

This may be caused by leaking vacuum hoses or mechanics
disconnecting your vacuum hoses. If you like to breathe, and you want
your car to perform well, replace all of the vacuum hose -- it costs
maybe 10 cents per foot. Just get a few yards and do
it one day (warning: you may need different kinds or sizes. You may need to
take
bits of the old stuff into the shop). Make sure hoses are not kinked.

Vacuum leaks caused by leaking hoses that look okay to the naked eye may
result in the following diagnoses by mechanics:
* Need new carburetor
* Need new transmission
* Need new engine
* Need valve job
* Need new mechanic.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C3. Stalling (dz...@ny2.pace.edu <Dave>)

See the above section on vacuum hoses. Turning the cold or warm idle
screw on the carburetor is a quick fix that doesn't solve the real
problem. If the car stalls when cold, lubricate the choke well. If it
stalls when wet, try getting much better ignition wires (lifetime
warranty, good brand, about $30). Also try:
* Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the electronic
ignition module
* Spray the little wires with silicone spray or wire drier
* Check for vacuum leaks (see above).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C4. Windshield wipers won't work (dz...@ny2.pace.edu):

Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the wiper motor.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C5. Water leaks into the car:

A problem on many A-bodies (Valiant/Dart group). May be solved by keeping the
cowl (that grille between the hood and windshield) free of leaves and gunk,
and
by
straightening out and emptying out the air conditioner condensation drain. The
black tube that carries a/c water may be seen on the firewall (the metal
between
the engine and the driver). It is small and behind other stuff. Sometimes the
end of this black tube freezes to itself and must be opened with a knife or
razor.

See http://z.simplenet.com/cc/a/water.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C6. runs rough cold, seems to improve with heat

geo...@bnr.ca (George Young) suggests:
1) Not enough voltage from old damp coil? - new coil.
2) EGR valve plunger binding open?
- remove and plug manifold vacuum hose to EGR circuit.

dz...@ny2.pace.edu adds: Better wires, high quality rotor/distributor cap for
best fit. Check the stove, that big metal thing on many engines that feeds
warm
air from the engine to the air intake through a usually-rotten or missing
hose.
The vacuum-operated flap may also not be functioning for one reason or
another,
usually a bad vacuum hose. This is common. Dan Stern notes the flap is
controlled by the Thermostatic Air Cleaner vacuum motor...

geo...@bnr.ca (George Young) adds: My old 318 ran rough when cold and
wet, would stall out until warm. Choke was the problem. Manifold
carboned up and wouldn't pass heat to choke coil thermostat. Changed to
manual choke and no more problem and increased gas mileage

Dan Stern noted that driveability problems could be caused by a bad choke
heater
control unit, which may short out and shunt full power to the electric choke,
causing it to heat up prematurely.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C7. Lean-Burn (computer-controlled carbureted engine) rough idle

1). Are your coolant temperature sensor connection ok? If not, the
computer will see a cold engine and will run rich.
2). Are the oxygen sensor connections ok?
3). Is the heated air inlet operating correctly?
4). Vacuum leaks? Check all vacuum hoses with a religious fervor!
The leak's location many not even be obvious!
5). Carburetor problems: float low? valve seat damage? I doubt the
latter since it appears that the problem arose quite suddenly. The
following is something I've used on computer-controlled carbureted
engines many times: 1). Connect a high impedance dwell meter to the
mixture control solenoid, set the meter to the 6 cylinders scale, run
the engine around 2000 rpm until hot and see the dwell. If the a/f
mixture's ok, you'll see the dwell oscillating about 30 degrees. Low
dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture lean and running closed loop.
High dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture rich and running closed
loop. Dwell at or below 10 degrees => system stuck lean. Dwell at or
above 50 degrees => system stuck rich. The latter two extremes indicate
closed loop operation since open loop operation typical will show a
stable dwell reading between 20 and 30 degrees (usually, closer to 20).
Do not do this test at idle since some engines will be operated in open
loop at idle REGARDLESS of the coolant temperature sensor's output.
Incidently, I've just outlined the procedure for GM's "System
Performance Test" which is used on GM C3 carbureted engines.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C8. Gas gauge acts funny: See #34. (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C9. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C10. Slant Six problems

Cold driveability problems tend to stem from poorly
adjusted choke and choke pulloff, bad accelerator pump, and sloppy carb
rebuilds
(Carter BBS one barrel is better than Holley 1920.)
Other big driveability problem source is the fact that the vibration
damper outer ring tends to slip, which makes the timing mark WAY OFF. Which
means timing would never be accurately set. Also check for timing chain
stretch.

Check by putting the engine at #1 TDC - top of compression stroke (both valves
closed) and see where the timing mark is. There are companies that re-bond
dampers with new silicone material. I think one is called Damper Dudes,
out of
California. I don't know if this happens on other CC engines. Basically, if
your damper has an inner hub and an outer ring sandwiching rubber bonding
material, this can happen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C11. 318 V8 troubleshooting

From: bt...@torfree.net (Bruce Martin) wrote:
One very common fault with the otherwise wonderful 318 is that the
exhaust crossover in the intake manifold (which warms the base
of the carb) becomes clogged. This is common so it should be
among the first things you check. (This problem was addressed on the
Magnum engines)

blac...@aztec.asu.edu (CURT PINCK) wrote:
It is interesting the wide variety of timing specs given for the 318, all the
way from 2 degrees ATDC to 16 degrees ATDC, depending on the type of engine
and
vehicle...Most books recommend not to try to time by ear, even if you have
experience doing this.

Ted Devey <te...@ftn.net> adds two more steps:
1. examine the reluctor teeth in the distributor for possible damage,
nicks etc. which can happen if the gap gets too small. If there is damage
to the
teeth, replace the reluctor.

2. Several years ago I dismantled the Carter 2-barrel carburettor and
reassembled it with the jet assembly upside down. There is no obvious wrong
way.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C13. Seat belt looseness

During the late 70's up through the late 80's all American cars had
something called a window shade mechanism to allow for a small amount of slack
to build-up in the shoulder belt. This was to prevent people from complaining
that their belts were too tight. I experienced (ref:June '87 Car and Driver
article by Patrick Bedard) a problem where the seatbelt built up too much
slack.
Sometimes the belts, like a windowshade, would never return at all. There is
usually a large plastic button on the 'B' pillar that needs to be fooled into
thinking the door is always opened, which by the way disables the window shade
mechanism and is how the belts return 'home' when you get out of the car.
Cut
the plastic button very close to the 'B' pillar, being careful not to cut into
the inner spring
Take a cotter pin and put it through the loops of the spring, this
prevents the
spring from ever retracting. Chrylser mini-vans are easier in that they
have a
rotating plastic cam with a striker pin that is engaged by the closing door.
Just cut the striker pin and you eliminate the problem.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C14. Low front end

Many late 60's and early 70's A-body Chrysler products had a problem
with the rear mount for the torsion bar. Water collects in the channel
and rust occurs. After a decade or so the channel that the mount is
welded into rusts through and the mount twists and that side of the
car falls onto the rebounce (sp?) bumper. If this is what happened you
will need to find a local frame/suspension/alignment shop that has
someone who has welded in new material to replace the rusted stuff and
then realign the ride height when done. (Thanks, Chris Jardine).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C15. Pinging on V-8s

Pete O Dickerson wrote: My 75 Dodge Swinger 318 would ping at part throttle
operation, not at full throttle (floored!) like you might expect. Just going
over an overpass or up a hill the engine would ping and clatter, even
though the
ignition timing and carburetor were set correctly.

The manifold was made from cast metal. The molten metal was poured into a
mold
through a little hole and when the manifold was finished, the little hole was
plugged up with a little rubber plug. Well, after a few years this little
plug
would dry up, shrink, and fall out, leaving a hole in the manifold. This hole
would cause a lean condition to exist at part throttle operation, by
letting air
leak in.

Try removing the carb and shining a flashlight down into the manifold and
seeing
if there is a hole in the bottom of the manifold. You can either plug it
up or
replace the manifold with a more performance oriented unit.

(The maintainer adds: invest in a vacuum gauge, they are cheap!)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C16: Fast idle, then stalling.

>From Timothy Economou: If you start your car and it runs for a while at fast
idle and then it starts to load up and then stalls. There is this little
round
thing on the open end of your breather that closes the outside air when
your car
is at fast idle and lets it draw air from the manifold. (Stove control). Check
it.

Editor's note: the stove control is frequently bad on vintage vehicles. The
vacuum hose, control, and mechanics of the flap in the air horn should be
checked. See above.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

=========================

DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS IN COMPUTER CONTROLLED
CARBURETED ENGINES

From: bohdan...@lucent.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)

This is the procedure I've used to diagnose air/fuel
mixture problems in computer controlled carbureted engines; the
procedure can also be used to set the idle air/fuel mixture
without exhaust gas analysis. The procedure is
based on the General Motors System Performance Test.

THEORY

The a/f mixture is controlled by a MIXTURE CONTROL SOLENOID (MC
solenoid). This is a valve which operates at a fixed frequency
(typically, 10 Hz) and whose duty cycle (valve's ON time divided by
period) is varied. That is, the valve is pulse width modulated. When
the valve is turned on, the incoming a/f mixture is fully leaned; when
off, fully enrichened. The former is called a "lean command" whereas
the latter is called a "rich command." By varying the duty cycle of the
MC solenoid, the AVERAGE a/f mixture can be varied. In GM products,
this valve directly varies the incoming fuel and air flow. In Chryslers, only
the
incoming fuel flow is directly varied.

The valve has a two wires electrical connector. On wire is connected to
switched battery voltage whereas the other is connected to a power
transistor in the computer and is a source of switched ground.

During closed-loop operation the following will occur (assume the oxygen
sensor is sensing a lean condition -- its voltage will be low):

1). The computer gradually decreases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

2). The exhaust eventually becomes rich enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing high (about 1 volt).

3). The computer gradually increases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

4). The exhaust eventually becomes lean enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing low (about 0 volt).

The cycle now repeats. A device for monitoring the solenoid's duty
cycle (such as a dwell meter) will show a constantly varying duty cycle.
The frequency of the oscillations will depend on the how fast the
computer varies the duty cycle and the engine's RPM. An AVERAGE duty
cycle of 50% corresponds to, on the average, NO average a/f correction.
Stated differently, everything is operating correctly. An average duty
cycle of LESS THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a rich command
(the computer is compensating for a lean condition). An average duty
cycle GREATER THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a lean command.

DIAGNOSIS AND SETTING IDLE A/F MIXTURE

Monitoring the MC solenoid's average duty requires (for most people) the
use of high impedance dwell meter. A low impedance dwell meter may be
used unless it affects engine operation; stay away from self-powered
dwell meters. Following the GM procedure, set the dwell meter to the
six cylinders scale REGARDLESS of the number of cylinders in the engine.
At this setting, 30 degrees will correspond to a 50% duty cycle, 60 to a
100% duty cycle, and 0 to a 0% duty cycle. Run the engine until closed
loop operation is present; this will be indicated by a varying dwell
(see footnote 1 for deviations from this procedure). Once the engine is
hot, not the average dwell -- the reading should vary equally above 30
degrees and equally below 30 degrees. The following is a brief trouble
listing:

1). DWELL NOT VARYING: system is operating in open loop.

2). DWELL STUCK AT 10 DEGREES OR LOWER: full rich command is present;
the computer is compensating for WHAT APPEARS TO BE a massive fuel flow
reduction (check for dirt in carburetor, air injection system stuck in
upstream position, vacuum leaks, improper a/f mixture setting...).

3). DWELL STUCK AT 50 DEGREES OR UP: full lean command is present
(check for float stuck low, valve seat damage, oxygen sensor's sense
lead shorted to battery voltage, etc.)

4). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS BELOW 30 DEGREES: average
rich command is present (check for vacuum leaks, dirt in carburetor's
jets, improperly set a/f mixture...)

5). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS ABOVE 30 DEGREES: average
lean command is present. Check for incorrectly set a/f mixture, float
stuck low, valve seat damage, clogged air filter, etc...).

Based on the above descriptions, it should be fairly clear on how to set
the idle a/f mixture: merely set the mixture so that the average dwell
is 30 degrees. Now, suppose the system's dwell is not varying, but the
sensors are working properly, the upper radiator hose is hot...

Several cars with small engines have the oxygen sensor mounted fairly
far away from the engines. During idle conditions, the sensor
may cool off to the point that it will not operate.
Turn off all electrical accessories (so
as to provide a minimal load on the engine) and use the idle stop screw
on the carburetor to gradually increase the idle rpm until the sensor
begins oscillating. Ensuring a negligible load on the engine guarantees
that the carburetor will be operating mostly on its idle circuit. Now,
set the a/f mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees.

Note that the a/f mixture setting procedure assumes that NO fuel
delivery problems (vacuum leaks, clogged carburetor, etc.) are present.

FOOTNOTES

[1] In some engines the a/f mixture is varied REGARDLESS
of whether the engine is in closed loop operation or not.
Consider setting the a/f mixture or diagnosing
at a slightly increased rpm.

**************************************************

5. REPLACING CRANKCASE INLET AIR FILTERS

If you remove the air cleaner and look at it from the front, the
breather (crankcase filter) will be in the "box" at the lower right
side. To get at it, you remove the 8 or so machine screws and the
bottom of this "box" will fall off. The filter is held in place by a
crudely placed screen. Lee makes a replacement filter (about
$2). In my Le Baron, I ended up replacing all the screws with
self-tapping sheet metal screws since the factory had almost every one
overtightened. --- Bohdan Bodnar

Dr. David Zatz

unread,

May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1998/3/15
Version: 3.9

last changes: #2 (stalling - distance sensor)

DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any

form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;

the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a
FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made
without the permission of the maintainer (val...@cyberwar.com).

- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions

There is a separate Neon FAQ.

Also see:

Part 3 - Classic cars
Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff
Part 6 - Other stuff

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean
the battery terminals and cables first!

* If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat,
purge the system of air bubbles.

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
the web site at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/

** Index **

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the "search"
or "find" feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries.

1. Stall/hesitation/sag on turns
2. Stalling (several entries)
3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
*** (see also #28 and other items)
4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting
5. Stalling / blown fuse (ignition feed)
6. Fast idle on startup
7. Random misfiring
8. Knocking
9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix
12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15)
15. Cold / freezing weather problems
16. Hard to shift in cold weather
17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
22. Automatic transmission jerky in downshifts (see also #69)
22. Abrupt downshift from 3 to 2
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts
27. Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes
28. Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically
(see web site).
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
/ icing of carburetor and other parts
35. Engine sometimes dies / car just quits (stalling).
(mod 1/96; several causes)
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems
39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow
41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration
45. Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site.
47. Hesitation (see related topics above)
48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
49. Turbo cutting out / power loss light
50. Jeep 4.0 stalling
54. Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6
73. Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss
82. Poor mileage, cold starts
83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability

1. Stall, hesitation, or sag on turns

George Young (geo...@bnr.ca) solved a problem with a 2.2 liter engine
stalling or hesitating
on right turns (taking about 2 seconds to catch again) by replacing the
Hall Effect pickup. A
wire had broken inside the insulation, and turns let the wire disconnect
momentarily.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Stalling

Ed Hennessy and Dan Stern reported that stalling on idle and other symptoms
may come from a failing distance sensor. It may not register any computer
codes. The problem may simply be a loose connection at the distance sensor
(quite common). The part is easy to replace. See
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/eek/dx-sensor.html

David Ta wrote that LH models may start to stall after a few years. The
throttle body may need to be cleaned, even with a spray can, because the
throttle blade may not freely move if it gets gummed up.

Devo@gonix wrote that his car drove fine, but died sometimes for no reason.
It was a bad coil.

Tony Donnelly said that his 1986 Laser would run fine when it was cold
and hot, but would stop in the middle (say, after five minutes). The
problem turned out to be the Hall effect sensor. There were no codes.

When the car just quits, it could be a loose battery connection, or a bad
automatic shutoff solenoid (which cuts the engine to prevent dieseling).
Also check 2.2 and 2.5 for distributor pickup - may intermittently fail
without showing fault codes. (Hall effect sensor). This is about $15 and is
not hard to replace. If these fail, try the oxygen sensor.

George Batten <dutc...@nortel.ca>'s '91 Voyager with 90K miles was
stalling for no apparent reason. The service tech cleaned the throttle body
plate in under an hour ($50), curing it.

pepe...@ccnet.com's 1994 Voyager (58K miles) stalled at traffic lights.
The problem was the ignition feed fuse. It is located under the dashboard
at #16 in this case but might be elsewhere in other cars. The dealer put in
a 20A fuse though the circuit is rated at 10A.

Ron Smith wrote about a fix for a problem also sent by a couple of others
in the same week: the fuel pressure regulator on some turbo cars (possibly
other EFIs) allowed too much pressure build-up; the pump shut off and
turned on again when the supply was exhausted. The result was that the car
would sag and/or quit when starting from a light; if it was allowed to idle
it would sputter for a second every minute or so. It made a "kind of a high
oscillating weezing noise and then nothing."
---------------------------------------------------------------------

3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30)

Problem: on 84 Laser, 88 Omni, and 87 Shadow (2.2 liter, turbo and
non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes goes
away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Solution: turning off the defroster; check the
speed/distance sensor and connection (t...@po.cwru.edu (Tom)), freon
level in the a/c (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back
side of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness
got hot enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and
re-insulated the wires, which fixed the problem.
**********
High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI:

Most likely automatic idle speed system. Check for fault codes. Check
wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or wires that seem stuck
together (separate and insulate from each other). Also check EGR
system, vacuum system, and timing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting

Bob Meyer <robert...@ncsu.edu> wrote about the Stratus (Cirrus/Breeze)'s
automatic transmission making a buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting
gears or pulling to a stop. He said this noise, which also occurs on the
Acclaim and other cars, is normal and comes from the solenoids. It is most
noticeable from outside the car. He warned that a continuous buzz or whine
could indicate low fluid or a bad pump, "But if what you're hearing is only
during shifting from park into reverse or drive or coming to a stop, then
the dealer is probably telling you the truth."
------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Stalling / ignition feed fuse blowing.

pep...@ccnet.com finally got his Caravan's continously blowing Ignition
Feed fuse problem fixed for $80. The problem originated from the ground
blue and white wire in F15 circuit. Autowest Dodge fixed it ("the service
was excellent") after another dealer was unable to.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Fast idle on startup

(Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products.
The throttle body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot
restarts; during a hot restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for the
first 10 seconds only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10
seconds during a hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Random misfiring

The fuel injector has two connections going to it: switched power and ground.
Pull the FACTORY wiring diagrams out, disassemble EVERY connector which
carries the ground feed to the injector, and saturate them with television
tuner cleaner (I use Caig Labs' DEOXIT). See if this cleans up the problem.

Scope the
switched power lead to the injector. You should see a transition which is
about 1.2 ms long -- this is the peak period. You'll now see serrations which
will vary with things like temperature, power demand, etc. (this is the hold
period). Maximum back-emf kick will probably be around 30 volts. If all this
is ok, then the driver is probably fine. If the peak period is too short,
then measure the injector's resistance and compare it to factory specs --
either it's shorted or the driving is going into premature current limiting
(bad driver).

Intermittent misfiring, usually becoming worse on humid days, is indicative of
electrical problems. I'd also check the intake manifold vacuum (should be
around 16" to 17" Hg, at idle). If you haven't replaced the oxygen sensor,
replace it -- this may reduce the misfiring. (Bohdan Bodnar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Knocking

The knocking could be caused by low oil pressure. You'd probably want to
have this tested. It
is possible to replace the stock oil pump with a "high flow" pump which
will alleviate this
problem (or, rebuild the engine). - Bohdan Bodnar, bbo...@lucent.com

------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix

Vaughn Smith suggests that, when you replace your rotor ($6 at a dealer),
you clean the Hall effect pickup (just under the rotor, you can't miss
it!). This helped him quite a bit on three cars. Be careful to put it back
the exact same way it was when you took it out! Also clean under and around
it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------

12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13

From: jiz...@cc.umanitoba.ca (Jizhong Wang) - 84 Dodge 600 ES
A couple of months ago the car stalled with the "Power Loss"
light. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I took the
car to a dealer and was told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it.
Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS
sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. Check the
connections and vacuum leaks before you replace it. BTW, my MAP
sensor is under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is
two inches above ECM.

(t...@po.cwru.edu <Thomas Z. Zeeb> adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under
the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to the left,
above and behind the belts. It has one vacuum hose and one three-node
electrical connector attached to it. They range from $70 -$100 US at
the dealer. If the MAP is shot, the engine will shut down after
starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine will then run (rough)
in some models.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------

15. Cold weather problems

Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling):
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions)

fran...@munch.lkg.dec.com sez this problem is common to cars which have
nonsynchronized reverse gears. Shift into a forward gear before going into
reverse. Or wait a
few moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the
engine shaft stops spinning.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. 2.5 liter knock/idle

sc...@northernnet.com (Janos Schumacher) says: "A 2.5 is a stroked 2.2 so
the skirt of the piston goes past the bottom of the cylinder. This makes
the piston wear away at the cylinder walls making them slightly oval. The
noise you are hearing is known as piston slap and the only solution is to
turn up the radio. Once the car warms up the cylinders become more round
and the noise goes away."

Chrysler's service bulletin says: Cold engine knock a few seconds after
startup, lasting 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds
like valve lifter or tappet noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually
disappears when the car is
warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.
-- TSB 09-06-93 provides for computer replacement.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Transmission jerky / downshifts abruptly

"Tranny downshift from 3 to 2 in an extremely abrupt motion...if the van
slows to less than 10 mph and gas is applied, tranny jerks and makes a
metal pinging noise." FIX: Replacement and reprogramming of the
controller; and fluid change. There is a TSB.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There is a TSB, but the dealer said
"you have to complain LOUDLY." The service guy called it the 'post shift
bang' "
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts

TSB 21-16-93 covers "harsh 2-1 downshift" on the 41TE transaxle, the
four-speed auto in most CC cars from 1989-1992. The change is replacing
the transmission control module (3.3, 3.8, or 3.0 liter engine only).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
27. Rough idle - several cases

Switched from Getty and Citgo gas to Mobil, Amoco, and Gulf.
Made a tremendous difference.

EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off.

Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first
response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first
adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and
sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad
battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused
changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited)

My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer
from the vacuum lead. Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle,
better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul
Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may
have been a leak in the EGR system.

My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had corrosion on them (a scan
tool showed that it took a long time to reach 180F and that it NEVER went
above 180F during highway driving); I opted to replace the CTS and
connector. Cold start problems went away and fuel efficiency improved. No
fault codes.

If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds
of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature
sensor's connector and see if the situation improves. (Bohdan Bodnar)

Dave says: try the basics. Replace the rotor ($6), distributor cap, wires
(silicone coated lifetime warranty name brand=$20 mail order!), and clean
and regap the plugs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running

I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It
had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor
(passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did
not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay)

Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer
(SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The
wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine
block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts.
(dsch...@thymaster.interaccess.com (David Schmitt))

Ron Smith <Leb...@wt.net>'s 1986 Lebaron GTS was stalling after warmup and
not restarting. The fuel pump was worn out.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)

In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60
and 65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the
tailpipe. The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the
intake air enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the
factory. The kit is not expensive.
---
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes
up from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine,
and hard to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum
actuator in the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working.
In cold weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air
flow through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
---
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the
hose that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position
it somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold
air from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
35. Engine sometimes dies.

Defective Hall-Effect pickup. (about $40) (Michael M. Knox)

(Also check the automatic cutoff solenoid) (about $12)

Bryan Steiner solved stalling on his 88 Voyager: "The wiring harness
runs over the exhaust pipe connecting the front cylinders to the rear
exhaust. My
harness had fallen down and the exhaust pipe burnt through one of the wires
and when it shorted on the pipe, the engine would die. I took a small piece
of string that tied up the harness to the air intake hose. Examine the
entire wiring harness for damage and check all the connectors."

With regard to a 1989 Spirit, 93,000 miles: car stalls now and then, but
runs fine if the MAP sensor is unplugged; MAP sensor has already been
replaced. Bohdan Bodnar writes:
). Hook a scan tool to the computer and set it to capture snapshots
of the data the computer sees.
2). When the problem occurs, the driver (or whoever is operating the
tool) informs the scan tool of this. The tool will now mark the
captured data frame as the "trouble frame."
3). Unload the data from the scan tool--the frames before the "trouble
frame" show what the computer saw before the problem occurred, the
trouble frame shows what the computer saw when the trouble occurred,
and the subsequent frames show what the computer saw after the
trouble occurred. Disconnecting the MAP sensor merely
causes the computer to substitute a default value in its
memory for the MAP reading and to ignore this sensor's output.
You can achieve the same by disconnecting the vacuum hose to
the sensor with the engine off and then starting the engine. The
computer won't see a change in MAP while cranking, will set the MAP
circuit fault code, and then ignore the MAP sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems

Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
accelerate.
It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running
fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed,
under mild acceleration.

David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors,
causing intermittent missing.

Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow

Snow and rain spray blew in through the grille, through the opening
where the air conditioner lines go. That moisture ended up directly on
the distributor and ignition wires. I put some pink fiberglass house
insulation in the gap around the AC lines, just jammed it in, and have
not had that problem since then.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter

>After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point
>where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the
>gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe.

With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right
over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine
heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a
lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor
to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)

2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.

The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a
tight enough fit.
Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. The pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (do...@ix.netcom.com)

First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get
loose. One TSB
involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel)
to the right strut
tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck
open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration

Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89
Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): it would
falter. The dealers (all
13 I went to) replaced the map sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark
plugs, spark plug wires, turbo
boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other gadget...I
found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem in under an
hour. The plug wires had been installed incorrectly. (jno...@usa.net)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere)

Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and
then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on
gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora )

Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs
may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve.

Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle
body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle
plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good
carburetor spray solvent.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT

My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased"
distributer, and "fixed" to some degree.
...
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
"single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.

The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is
not changed by this
problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor "phase" is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
49. Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light

Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and
the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2
turbo) It turned out to be a disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate
assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola) If the wastegate is not
opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel.
As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac
Alan Crossett)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).

The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration

Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the
throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a
good carburetor spray solvent.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
73. LH transmission clunk / rough downshift

bwet...@cadvision.com (Blair Wetmore)'s dealer reprogrammed the 4-speed
transmission's computer to cure the shudder when the torque converter locked up
under light throttle. Downshifts at low speeds are much better.

vi...@ix.netcom.com (Vincent Paul) notes that there is a TSB on other four-speed
automatic transmission shudders and mis-shifts.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts

prof...@cybercomm.net and Wayne Taylor both had vehicles with 3-speed
TorqueFlites. In colder weather the engine flares or shifts slowly during
the first few hundred yards. profgmby says this causes no problems and has
over 150,000 miles on his.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss

Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo,
with some improvement in each case.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
82. Poor mileage, cold starts

George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes
17, 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the
coolant sensor, causing the computer to guess the engine temperature (high
idle). The cure: cleaning near the coolant sensor connector, on the round
6-position connector in behind the battery; and on the bulkhead connector
on the driver's side. Then check voltage at coolant sensor (leave it
connected, just skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in with
your multimeter) it should be somewhere in the 3 Volt range. If that
doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the computer. Note:
don't forget that if you remove the computer connector you must re-grease
it by Chrysler procedures.

--------------------------------------------
83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6

(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted
loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section
around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight
section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I try to get the wire
as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect of
preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold
running problem. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum
wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is
very high. Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke
plate. During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and
the car starts right up.
--------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------

For more, visit http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ - trouble, fix, help, and EEK!
sections mainly

Dr. David Zatz

unread,

May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part5
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1998/2/10
Version: 3.8

Last changes: added chime for minivans, oil leak fix

use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of

this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any

form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;

and that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a

FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made

without the express permission of the maintainer

(val...@cyberwar.com= Dr. David Zatz).

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited.
personal knowledge; send them to the newsgroup. Thank you.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART V - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff

Note that troubleshooting and diagnostic procedures are
also in sections 3, 4, and 6.

* For heaven's sake, if your antifreeze was just changed and your car
started to overheat, find
a different mechanic and purge the system of air bubbles. (See below).

Index of oil leaks: (funny noises, temperature follow the oil leaks)

1. Oil loss from 2.5 (maybe 2.2) liter engine
2. Oil loss from 2.5/2.2 revisited
10. Oil seepage from the valve cover or oil pan gaskets
25. Oil leak - manual transmission (VERY common)
42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6 - MOD 1/96
46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake

1. Oil loss from 2.5 (maybe 2.2) liter engine

Chrysler replaced ac...@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca's 1991 Acclaim 2.5's valve
seals (though there was no blue smoke on startup) and the PCV valve, and
installed an oil restrictor valve, which he thinks was made standard in 1993.
See also #10 and 46. Oil pan leaks appear to be common.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Oil loss from 2.2/2.5 revisited

Joe Coffey used two hose clamps, one at each end, and a better fitting hose
to fix an oil leak from the valve cover to the air breather on a
Shadow/Sundance.
Dan LaBrake said the culprit was the hose that went from the upper part of
the
valve voer to the underside of the air breather; oil collects in the
breather and leaks onto the engine.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Oil seepage from the valve cover or oil pan gaskets

(following covers 2.2/2.5 engines but may apply to others as well. Last
2.2/2.5 produced for
1994 models; superceded by 2.0/2.4 and 2.5 V-6).

Lemon-Aid Used Car Guide: "1989-93... cylinder head and oil pan gaskets are
prone to leaking."
... "1990-91 - Owners can get a new cylinder head gasket cover on models
with 2.2L and 2.5L
engines." (Jim Hoare)

wmg0...@aol.com wrote of p/n 4773193, a new valve cover (1994?) which
forms a superior seal
on 2.5 engines, maybe 2.2s too. If anyone actually gets Chrysler to buy
them one, let me know.
Chances are you're on your own.

Bob Meyer <robert...@ncsu.edu> says: The valve covers on
emission-controlled cars are
vented through the inlet hose from the air cleaner to the valve cover and
the PCV valve from
the valve cover to the throttle body/intake manifold. If you are having a
problem with valve
cover oil leaks, then you should check whether these hoses, or the small
crankcase air filters
in the air cleaner, are blocked first before you reseal the valve cover.

Around 1987, Chrysler switched from using a gasket to using RTV.
In 1994, they switched to a 1 piece valve cover from a 3 piece cover.

Mike Manning informs us that recall #467, issued in 1990, covers the
valve cover gasket; he says that the gasket was replaced with blue goo.
Once this stuff has
set up, the cover needs to be re-tightened. We don't think the dealers
usually do it
correctly. Mike finally replaced his with a cork gasket.

This is a known problem but reps deny it; the situation calls for
assertiveness. Keep checking
your engine, especially around the spark plug area, for seeping oil. Ask
that your engine be
cleaned every time the dealer fixes the seepage. If your car is out of
warranty, try to have
the seepage fixed anyway.

Paul F. Schikora : Went to NAPA and got a gasket set and a bottle of gasket
goo (orange colored
stuff). Took my time cleaning the surfaces completely and applied the
gasket & goo per
instructions. No more leak. However, I'm sorry I didn't take the time to
reseal the PCV
connection cover. It's always bled quite a bit of oil into the valve and
air filter. (Note:
this was for 1987 model, which had a gasket).

JoDee McKenney says: I'd use the gaskets and the high temp silicone on each
of the metal
surfaces. This allows a way to seal the parts together and still get them
apart later.

Daniel Stern warns: DO NOT DO THIS on an engine with mechanical lifters
(i.e G/RG engines and
early V8s) because there will be hell to pay when it comes time to adjust
the tappet clearance.

Duane P Mantick provides TSB 09-17-89 which advises replacing the original
cover with one using
RTV. The "cylinder head cover kit" is PN 5241066 and contains the cover,
five screws, 2 end
seals, four studs, but not RTV sealer PN 6500435. This TSB applies to
"1989-1990 all domestic
vehicles with 2.2L or 2.5L EFI engines"

Michael J. Challis <bigc...@aone.com>, a Chrysler Master Tech, wrote that
Mopar RTV silicon
works well: "The trick to this stuff is to have a clean surface. Use brake
parts cleaner to
remove oil so you have a dry surface for the RTV to bond to."

------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
25. Oil leak from manual transmission

Applies to all cars and minivans with the manual trans A-523, A-543, and
A-568 (most of them). The TSB (21-24-93) says that "vehicles that are in
the dealership for any other reason should also be inspected for this
leak condition." What is replaced is a
remote vent assembly in place of the existing lock pin, and a new
linkage adjusting procedure for future service. It should take about 20
minutes. Most dealers will say "no problem found" unless you stick the
service advisor's finger into the oil leak.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6

Jim Thatcher: the smoking from his 3.0 liter engine was coming
from the PCV housing. A redesigned valve cover handles the oil
properly. Details from Keith Vicker (I think): inside the front valve
cover, the PCV housing does not always drain oil properly. Drilling
holes in this MAY cure the problem - we have no experience with that.

Another reason:

In the older 3.0 heads the exhaust valve guides sink into the head. The
usual repair is to remove both cylinder heads, knock the guides back to
their normal position, and have snap rings installed onto the guides so
that they don't sink again. (Eric Eleazar, Dick Greenfield Dodge)

Check the oil pressure sending unit. You'll see it if you lie down and
look around the starter/oil filter area. A lot of 'em start leaking at
about 75K or so. It'll cost you around $20 to replace. Put a drip pan
under it. Then, gently back the old one out (threaded), and screw the
new one in; don't over-torque it. (Stan A. Bidlack)

Keith Vickers said: ...
Pat Goss said that in his shop only about 1 in 250 needed the heads pulled.
The seals can be
replaced without pulling the heads.

DJ Allen said: My '88 3.0L was smoking like a volcano. The valve guides
were all in place. I replaced the valve guide seals while I was in there
and there hasn't been one puff of smoke since. I used Keith Vickers'
procedure. I found an 'on engine' valve spring compressor at my local
parts store for $25 and it worked, but I struggled with it because of
tight clearance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake

There is a curtain in the valve cover which prevents most oil from being
blown out the breather. Any oil in mist form should stay in mist and be
captured by the air filter. I had a problem where someone replaced my
leaking valve cover gasket and *forgot* to reinstall the curtain. I was
blowing about a quart every 500 miles. The worst part was that it
*looked* like my rings were blown. You would step on it on the freeway,
oil would pump out the breather, go down the air heater hose and burn on
the exhaust manifold producing oil smoke. (Thomas Lee Grice)

This is often just from a stuck PCV valve. If it is, chances are it's
leaking down to the air filter (and the air intake pipe) from a black
hose which comes up to the air horn (2.2/2.5 engines).

In the 2.5 (probably 2.2 as well) engine, oil can get sucked into the
PCV system unless a baffle plate is installed. He did this and it
worked.

Index of Funny Noises:
1. Noise on turns
2. Dakota creak
3. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
4. 4-cylinders: snapping noise when starting/stopping (see #18)
5. Daytona rattle
6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
7. Whining or whistling noises from belt driven accessories
(most FWD vehicles from 89-94).
8. Rattle from back of car (hatchbacks)
9. Rattles/noises from engine compartment
10. Misc rattles
11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal)
12. Rear end noise - Neon
13. Squeal when ac is or goes on: see above, #61.
14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing
15. 1996 minivan (Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country) noises
(comprehensive list)
16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank
17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise (highway speeds)
18. Clicking/snapping noise on stop (see #4)
19. Clunking
20. Knocking/metallic clanking
21. Drive belt squeal
22. Inexplicable chime
*******
*******
*******

1. Herbert DaSilva <h...@swl.msd.ray.com> writes:

(Problem: Noise happens on left hand turns and some bumps. Was
originally chirping noise, but now more of a rumble. More frequent. Car:
1987 Shadow 2.2, five-speed, 110K miles.)

Isolate the problem with the following test:
1. - Select an off-ramp or empty parking lot where you can attain some
velocity while maintaining a left hand turn when the noise is evident.
2. - Clutch in or slip the tranny into neutral and pump the gas pedal to
rev the engine. If the noise does not change tone when the engine is
revved, the problem is in your driveline. If the noise changes tone
with the speed of the engine, the passenger side engine mount has
probably collapsed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Dakota creak

my truck had a loud "creak" while driving. The problem: a cover plate
between the converter and the truck body, directly under the front
drivers seat, that flexes under use. The fix was easy-stuff something
between the plate and the body. [Robert Duggan]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. 2.5 liter knock/idle

Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting about 3-5 minutes

-- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or

tappet noise. Noise loudest when weather colder. Usually disappears when

the car is warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.

-- TSB 09-06-93 provides for replacement of the computer.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Snapping noise on start/stop

Noise comes from the left side of the engine while starting from or
coming to a stop. More prevalent when engine comaprtment hot.
Diagnosis: With windows closed, trans in drive or first and parking
brake on, put a load onto the gas. Release the load and shift into
reverse. Listen for the noise as you apply a load in reverse. If you
can't hear it, drive at low speeds with several quick, but not hard,
acceleration/deceleration moves. Parts requried: left engine support.
Time: .6 hours (from TSB 09-02-93).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Daytona rattle

Christopher Sennett Homer: Under the rear hatch are
two black plastic screw things with rubber bushings on the bottom,
at the rear corners on the hatch. When the hatch is closed
it rests on these bushings, now if one, or both, of them are too short
then the hatch pivots on the latch and rattles, so take some pliers
and unscrew the plasic bushings a little to extend them. that should
clear up that hatch rattle.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There was a TSB, but the dealer
said "you have to complain LOUDLY. The guy called it the 'post shift
bang' "
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Whining or whistling noises (most 89-94 FWD vehicles)

Jim Zimmerman said TSB 21-40-93, affecting most FWD vehicles from 1989
to 1994, covers this. This noise comes from the transmission of the
FWD cars and minivans, with automatic "transaxles built with 3.02 or
3.22 final drive gear ratios. 1994 model year vehicles must have a
transaxle code prior to 1826 for this bulletin to apply." This is a 7
hour job and replaces MANY parts.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Rattle from back of car

The screws that hold the trim onto the hatchback tend to come loose and
fall off. They cost 22 cents, so get extras.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Rattles from engine compartment

On a 2.2, the plastic hood covering the air cleaner lost a bolt, and
now has a huge rubber band holding it down to keep it from buzzing at
some RPMs. The air injection tube into the catalytic converter has a
filter which used to buzz against the firewall LOUDLY until I
relocated it.

These engines produce a lot of vibration, and there are a lot of hoses
and gismos nearly touching each other. Someone will have to poke her
head inside the engine compartment while an assistant revs up the
engine through the RPMs that it makes noise, and try to isolate the
noise producer. The safe way is to shut the engine off and see if you
can rattle anything with your hand. Also, look for any broken hose or
wire brackets. (Jim Van Damme)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Misc rattles

On my Sundance (Shadow), *all* the plastic covers that go over the seat
belt mounts were squeaking or rattling. I sprayed them with white
lithium grease where they were attached and where the were scraping or
hitting other plastic parts. (Dave)

Also on my Sundance, I had several instrument panel noises. The mechanic
put foam on the back of the radio faceplate and other easily removable
bits of plastic, which helped somewhat. The center console rubbed
against the underside of the dash. (Dave)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal)

Get this -- there is a spring under the gas pedal. One squirt with white
lithium grease (well, a dozen squirts) took care of this annoying noise.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Neon rear end noise

jb...@NMSU.Edu (Jody L. Baze) sez:
Look under the rear of the car - shouldn't need to jack it up, it's
accessible. The sway bar is attached to the frame and runs up to near
the wheel where it is attached to the shock assembly with a tie rod.
It was the tie rod attachments that were squeaking.
I applied a few drops of teflon lube (it's what I had on hand) to both
the top and bottom pivot points around the bushings and no more
squeak. Pretty simple...it's a 1-minute job once you know where to lube!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing

robert...@ncsu.edu had the same sound when his Stratus was delivered.
He put white lithium grease on the aluminum check straps and cycled the
doors several times.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
15. 1996 minivan noises (comprehensive list)

Bob Jaworski says rattles in the back may be cured by getting the rear
shocks replaced - there
is a recall or TSB on this. If your middle seat is rattling: the hook that
holds the seat in
may be loose. Crinkling sound from the steering wheel: Resolved by
readjusting column housing
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank

Chrysler now has a new bracket with spacers. Many people will need a new
gas tank to replace
their warped tank. All under warranty.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise

aw...@ecl.psu.edu (Alvin N. Wang) wrote that he had a random clunk/think
noise while at highway
speeds. He moved the load bars on his roofrack as far to the rear as
possible and it cured it.
The noise had sounded like it was coming from under the floorboards! A TSB
may have been issued
on this.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Clicking or snapping in the front end

ntmy...@nyc.pipeline.com (Mark T. Hoops) wrote that a "clicking or
snapping noise in the front
end just as braking to a full stop" could be the left side engine support,
especially in a 2.5
liter; but could also be the strut plates, C/V joints, or loose steering
rack bolts.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Clunking

dja...@msmail3.hac.com had a clunk in his Caravan in the front driver's
side; the dealer
didn't find it, but he did. It was the bolt that tightens around the ball
joint pin. He had
done a cv joint boot job and had not
tightened the bolt adequately. The ball joint pin would slip up and down
with braking, bumps, whatever. He tightened it up and the problem
went away.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Knocking/metallic clanking

From: gara...@gnn.com (gary cristadoro) writes: A constant
knocking/metallic clanking which
increased with engine rpms and got louder with engine speed on a Jeep
turned out to be the

vibration dampener (harmonic balancer) bolted to the driveshaft. It drives
via belt all
accessories. You can visually inspect the rubber insulator between the yoke
and counterbalance
pulley; if a severe shift has taken place (the two parts are misaligned and
protrude), the fan
belt is not aligned with other pulleys.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
21. Drive belt squeal

Frank E. Tressler Jr. fixed his 1991 Dodge Shadow's (2.2) belt squeal by
removing the washer
between the alternator pulley and the alternator. The washer or shim was
approximately 1/8" to
1/16" thick.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Inexplicable chime

B. Bennett pointed out that minivans (possibly other vehicles) may
automatically sound a chime when the turn signal has been left on. This
might come up on long highway ramps. It was part of the Family Value
Package in 1991, maybe others.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Temperature stuff

Index:

1. Temperature gauge swings
8. Heater isn't working right (front wheel drive cars)
14. Air blows through the wrong vents
18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up
38. Temperature gauge problems
40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / coolant loss /
car runs hot / no heat / other coolant shenanigans --
Tom Johnson may help you to prevent $$ problems!
62. Air conditioner (a/c) ineffective OR cycles too often
65. No heat - minivans, maybe others

1. Temperature gauge swings

From: "Frank E. Tressler Jr." <wiz...@defnet.com>

Problem: Sundance thermometer swings back and forth. Repair attemps include
replacing the
thermostat and both engine temperature sensors. Test the fix by keeping
the temp control on
RECIRC and seeing if th gauge stays at a constant level. If so, check the
hose going to from
the thermostat housing to the heater core - it goes through a plastic
bypass valve just before
entering the heater core. The hoses on the valve turned out to have been
switched at a prior
servicing

Note that on many cars minor swings are normal during warm-up because the
computer allows small
amounts of warm antifreeze into the heater to provide some early heat while
letting the engine
warm up.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

8. Heater problems:

() vand...@lonex.rl.af.mil had poor heat in his Lancer.
The temperature regulator door was not sealing well in HOT, letting cold
air bypass the heater core. He stuffed a 4-5mm by 12 cm piece of foam
in, closed the door on it, and unhooked the cable until Spring to keep
it in place.

If your radiator cap leaks or the hose to the CRS bottle leaks the
vacuum will be lost and it won't suck the juice back in. Blow on the
bottle to see.

Dennis Lippert notes: The temperature gauge will swing back and forth
until the entire system is warmed fully. This is because you keep
introducing "cold" coolant from the radiator into the engine, rapidly
cooling it. WHen the temp falls enough, the thermostat closes, and the
temp goes back up, repeating the cycle. This is due to a valve which
lets you get heat before the thermostat opens up. It keeps the warm
coolant in the engine *and heater* when the thermostat was closed.

Peter Galambos related: Fixed by flushing the system with oxalic(sp?)
acid (i.e. Prestone Super Flush). Now the heater works great and the
engine temperature changes much less. There was probably a restriction
even though the antifreeze looked fine; a lot of rust flowed out when
flushing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Air blows through the wrong vents

Problem: under acceleration, air comes through the defroster vents
instead of the vents it's supposed to come through. Reason: a valve that
sits in a vacuum line went bad. That valve leads to a vacuum reserve
tank, and the tank either wasn't forming a vacuum or the vacuum in the
tank couldn't get out. (The reserve tank may also have gone bad, or
there may be a leak in the system). (Lloyd R. Parker)

------------------------------------------------------------------------
18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up

There is a check valve to correct washer nozzle freeze ups (which
dealers may
not acknowledge). (Jim Hoare) - you could also add alcohol to the
antifreeze in very cold weather.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
38. Temperature gauge problems

Robert Rowe: With the ignition on, ground the wire coming of the
sending unit momentarily while the enging is warm. If the gauge moves to
the correct temp, the sender is at fault. Do not ground for a long
period of time as this can damage the gauge.

Peter Galambos: Temperature gauge would suddenly jump to 3/4 or almost
full scale for a few seconds and then drop back to center. I hooked a
voltmeter to the temperature sender input to the body computer and
actually saw nice linear voltage swings. It appears
that the gauge is designed to go super non-linear above a certain
temperature. I disconnected the radiator fan long enough to verify that
it was thermostat cycling causing the temperature swing and replaced the
thermostat and antifreeze.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / poor temp regulation

The clamp on the hose to the overflow bottle wasn't tight enough; it had
loosened during recent pressure-checking of the cooling system. --
Louise Penberthy

Ross Gunn heard air (exhaust) bubbling back through the coolant overflow
bottle and had to replace the head gasket was the solution. The dealer
estimated $500; Ross did it himself for under $100.

I managed to trace a slow coolant leak to the point near the firewall
where rubber coolant hoses are clamped to the metal ends of the heater
core tubes. Tightening the clamps a few turns ended the problem. I
probably never would've discovered the culprit had I not noticed that
a nearby cable had an odd green-ish tint. -- Roger Fradenburgh

The 2.2/2.5 liter cooling systems *MUST* be purged of air before
operation; otherwise, coolant flow blockage will result (i.e., hot,
possibly REALLY hot, engine). Partial purging will
cause the engine to run hotter than normal; the temperature
will gradually drop to normal as the system purges itself over
several days/weeks. These engines' cooling systems can be purged
easily by parking the car on an incline (front much higher than
rear) and cycling the engine on/off until the thermostat opens and the
air is expelled into the radiator. The proper way is to use the bleed
screw in the thermostat's housing...on some engines (like my 2.5) this
screw is frozen in place because of lack of use; hence, the heat
soaking of the thermostat's housing. -- Bohdan Bodnar (note:
letting it "purge itself" may lead to negative consequences).

Sometimes you can fry your brand new thermostat if you don't
burp it properly. I would always just crank the heat,
leave the radiator cap off, and start the car to purge the
cooling system. -- Terry L. Howe

We just went through this with my neighbors 3.0L Voyager. He complained
of white smoke in the exhaust, we found oil in the water and vice versa.
The dealer told him $1,000 to replace head gasket; we spent under $300.
We also replaced the timing belt, water pump, plugs & wires, etc while
we were there--the parts weren't expensive. We also replaced the
speedo cable as the best way to get at it was when the heads were off.
The new gaskets solved his problem, and he has more power.
-- ssmye...@aol.com
***
If the cooling system is low on water, the highest parts of the engine
tend to overheat, causing the head to warp and the head gasket to blow
out through the gaps left by the warping. Plymouth Reliants have
temperature gauges and show a high reading within a few minutes of
starting the engine IF it is low on coolant.

If the heater/defroster fan doesn't blow toasty warm when the engine is
hot, you are probably low on coolant. or have to bleed the system more.
It helps to park the car on a grade (front end high), turn the heater
temperature control up all the way, and idle the engine with the
radiator cap off. Then, fill the cooling system. [Use distilled water
- about fiftey cents a gallon from the supermarket] (Tom Johnson)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
62. Air conditioner ineffective OR cycles too often

Jim Zimmerman says: Short cycling [the a/c unit going on and off every
five or ten seconds) would allow it to cool, but not very well. An
independent shop immediately found that the first shop put on a
defective expansion valve in their attempt to repair it. Also, the low
pressure switch was bad. Mine would only act up intermittently. One day
it would cool just fine, the next day it would short cycle again.
--------------------------------------------
65. No heat

Daniel Thomas writes:
[Dealers tried] everything from flushing out the cooling system,
replacing thermostat, replacing heater core, replacing blower motor,
etc. The REAL cause of the problem turned out to be the "automatic
ajjustment" cable on the hot air door. This is the door which allows
the incoming air to go across the heater core to provide heat into the
interior of the van. The damn thing had misadjusted itself a number of
times. The service manuals recommend a way to adjust the door to work
correctly but it isn't always successful even when it appears to be done
correctly. The door must be opened wider than the recommendation
implies then the heat lever is forced to the cold position. This
automaticially readjusts the cable connection to allow the door to open
wider which forces more (all) cold air across the heater core. The
secret is in the adjustment and almost going by the book. I have
personally been successful in fixing a number of vans that didn't give
out enough heat. The job is easy once you figure it out.
--------------------------------------------

--
http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ - Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central
val...@cyberwar.com - NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS

Dr. David Zatz

unread,

May 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/20/98

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part6
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1997/7/31
Version: 3.9

DISCLAIMER:
Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of

this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any

form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;

and that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a

FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made

without the express permission of the maintainer

(dz...@ny2.pace.edu = Dr. David Zatz).

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited.
personal knowledge; send them to the newsgroup. Thank you.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART VI - Other Troubleshooting / Quick Fixes

There is a specific Neon FAQ.

Other parts of this FAQ:

Part 3 - Classic cars

Part 4 - Driveability and transmission
Part 5 - Funny noises and oil leaks and temperature stuff

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,

which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect without
(or with) fault codes being registered. Check and clean the

battery terminals and cables first!

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on

the web site at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems.

1. * Important! Fuel leak alert! - ALL 2.2 engines
2. Rampage (maybe other models) - water leaks
3. Loose steering
4. Automatic seat belts don't work/don't work well
5. Doors freezing shut
6. Tachometer problems
7. LH headlights not bright enough (Intrepid, Vision, Concorde)
8. Air conditioner (a/c) smell
9. Caravan/Voyager door won't open/close
11. Check Engine light went on
13. DING sound when hard cornering
20. Speedometer doesn't work
21. ABS jerky
24. Brake rotor warping
29. Smoky exhaust
32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch
34. Gas gauge acts funny
36. Control/status panel/console acting funny
52. ABS note - Chrysler and GM minivans (see also #64)
53. Code 52 on 86-87 engines
55. Service engine light goes on.
56. Cruise control problems
57. Battery charging problems
58. Sundance/Shadow (possibly others) hatchback leak
59. Car/minivan will not start; makes CLICK noise instead
60. Spongy / mushy brakes
61. Squeal when a/c is/goes on; adjusting belt tension
63. Weatherstrip repairs
64. Preventing ABS problems
66. Jeep 4.0 noise
67. LH clunk on acceleration
68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny
69. 4-speed auto trans problems - misc
70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph
71. Easier shifting - Talon/Laser/Eclipse
72. Gas gauge acting funny
74. Backfiring
75. PREVENTION - 3.0 liter engine
76. 1996 minivan gas empty warning is early / does not take enough gas
78. CV boot replacement
79. Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco: seat belt light
81. Rear defrost activated by brake lights
84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper activation)
86. Fluid leaks (inside the car)

================================================================
1. FUEL LEAKS:

There was a recall for fuel line replacements on some vehicles in 1988.
A rigid line was replaced with a flexible one between the metal line and
fuel pressure regulator. (Sherrie Settle).

All 2.2 turbo owners should check their fuel clamps for leaks on a
regular basis. This is VERY important. Tighten them if needed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Water leaks (Rampage, possibly other L bodies)

Gary Howell <gho...@mail.miworld.net> says: Under the windsheild at
each lower corner, holes rust through. The best fix is to remove the
windsheild and have the body work done properly. The cheap fix is to
remove the windsheild trim and fill the holes with RTV. The holes are
not always visable to the eye, sometimes the holes are under the glass
or like a micro screen.

If a speaker wire has been run through the door seal, water will
sometimes follow the wire past the seal.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Loose steering

Check the ball joints and tie rods. For M-bodies and A-bodies, try
replacing the current steering box with a new police-type steering chuck
from Mopar Performance (or used from a police car or taxi).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Automatic seat belt problems

In the early part of 1993, there was a recall for Shadow/Sundance
automatic shoulder belts; the fix is to lubricate the tracks once a year
or more with Passive Restraint Track Grease, part 4680370. If the recall
has not been done, Chrysler will replace inoperative belts (Wayne Toy).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Doors freezing shut

Jim Van Damme suggestd:
1. Open the door panel and undo the nuts that hold the door latch onto
the door. Slide the whole latch down (or was it up?) to allow the handle
to engage sooner.
2. Lubricate it well (de-ice with WD-40) when you've got the panel off.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Tach probs:

t...@po.cwru.edu said a lot of Laser/Daytonas had tachometers which
skip when you hit a bump. The problem was the chip which processes
the signal and clips into the top rear of the dash cluster unit. It may be
the contacts rather than the $45 chip.

"Bill Burdette" <Bill.B...@nsc.com> wrote that he has fixed tach
problems by removing the entire instrument cluster/printed circuit board,
which he said is very simple. The problems and fixes include:

1) Tach "Driver" module plugs loose, or dirty: This module "Peak Detects"
the
"Clicks" from the Hall Effect/Distributor. The more clicks, the smoother
the
peak detected voltage, and the higher the tach needle reads. TV Tuner
Spray
(from Radio Shack, etc), or a contact cleaner that *is safe for plastics*
can
clean this. A pipe cleaner and a Q Tip also helps scrap away the
contact's corrosion, etc. While there, carefully unplug the gauges and
clean
their sockets, too.

2) PCB via solder: the PCB is a two layer-printed tracks on both sides of
the
board. To connect the tracks (top to bottom, etc), Chrysler uses a type of
rivet. These rivets should be soldered very well (ie solder should "flow"
from
top to bottom, onto the tracks, etc). These rivets can be easily
resoldered
with a medium heat iron, or have someone do it for you (some speedo repair
shops have experienced solderers that will "reflow" PCBs).

3) PCB's sockets loose: the sockets/harness that bring the
signals/voltages/etc
to the PCB "spring metal" inside gets weak. A dental tool will help you
"re-bend" the contacts, or if you have a "MOLEX" key/tool you can remove
the
contacts and carefully rebend each contact-have patience when you do this!

"I tried to call
Chrysler to let them know about this-it could be easily
alleviated by changing their solder process, but I gave up. I could never
get through to anyone who
would listen, or care."
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. LH headlights:

Some
dealers replace the lenses for free on 1994 models. You can order new
lenses or keep trying dealers. The TSB is 08-38-94.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. A/C smell

David Ta believes the a/c smell comes from condensation collecting on the
horizontal fins of compressors used on some models. One way to prevent
this is to blow hot air for a couple of minutes before turning off the
ignition.

There is a Chrysler extra warranty of 7/70 on LH evaporators).

This is a problem on many different makes and models, and normally the
dealer will try to solve it using fungicide. David Ta also said a GM
friend of his mixed water and baking soda, and poured it into the drain
area next to the firewall, later rinsing with a water hose. He did this
once a year when he winterized.

A new solution (sent by David Ta) was described by Popular Mechanics, in
November 1996: AC Delco's kit No. 15-8632 and relay (if necessary)
15-8264, to run the blower for 5 minutes, an hour after the ignition is
turned off if the a/c has been turned on for at least 4 minutes. The
article also gives a short-term fix with GM spray can and verifying the
evap drain hole at the firewall is not blocked.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Caravan/Voyager stuck doors:

Mike Stallcup couldn't get his minivan door to close, so he turned the
power locks on and off a few times. Fixed it.

Someone else found the problem to be a loose trim panel held to the back
of the door. The roller on the track at the top/inside of the door was
also out of alignment; the bolts had loosened and the door was not
closing tight. Check the tightness of the bolts.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Check Engine light goes on:

1. This may be due to the need for a periodic service.
2. It may be the oxygen sensor (Steve Sheldon <she...@iastate.edu>)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
13. DING sound when hard cornering

Paul Schikora suggested this might be the low gas alert being sounded
due to the gas sloshing around in the tank.

Pete Morrissette said he also had a dinging sound, but not the same
kind: his Voyager's sliding door pinged/dinged on bumps and turns. Paul
Schikora said the bolt connecting the door to the arm (which slides in
the track at the front top of the door) sometimes loosened. To check,
grab the door there and try to push/pull it; if it moves in and out, the
bolt must be tightened.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Speedometer doesn't work

There is a TSB out on this problem with the Shadow/Sundance. Take it to
your dealer, they should fix it for free. The TSB was issued in 1994. The
problem is the speed sensor connector; a new one must be spliced in.

Details from Neil Emiro on replacing the speed sensor yourself follow.
They probably apply to all K-based (and extended K-based) cars:

To get it out, you will need a 10mm wrench, a flat blade screwdriver, and
if your car has cruise, a 19mm wrench. Jack the car up. If you look
underneath at the oil pan plug, and look back on the car, to where the
axle goes into the tranny, you will see it. It's mounted in the top of
that extension housing. If your unit is round, just unplug it and remove
the cable if there is one, and pry it up, putting the screwdriver between
the black body of the sensor, and the natural color base. If your unit is
kind of short and diamond shaped, disconnect the wiring and cable, and
there's a 10mm bolt on the far side that you'll probably be able to feel
better than see.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
21. ABS jerky

Dealer reprogramming the PCM fixes the brakes. (Steve Chu)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
24. Brake rotor warping

The dealers have received a bulletin saying that if cars come in with
less than 30,000 miles with worn out brake pads and rotors in need of
turning they are to do it under warranty. (Mary Bucy)

The dealer told me this is a known problem (LH) and replaced them
with heaver duty rotors. There is two TSB's from JUNE 94 that
deal with front brake rotors. (David Pothier)

If lug nuts are over-tightened, it places too much stress on the rotors
resulting in warpage soon thereafter. I always go over each lug with a
torque wrench set at 90 ft lbs. (Ted Ruscha)

Jeff Brinkerhoff <cay...@dreamscape.com> wrote that rotors are a frequent
problem, but that replacing them with aftermarket rotors usually works
well.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
29. Smoky exhaust

From: m...@metronet.com (Mo Brooks)
Smoke Color / Reason
Black = Too much fuel (probably bad sensor or dirty air cleaner)
Blue = Oil
White = Water

Black smoke on acceleration in early 2.2l engines may come from the fuel
pressure regulator vacuum hose at the elbow; may be a bad injector; or
may be duel to high fuel pressure. You may want to check for
restrictions in the fuel return line.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch

Tim Drake fixed his 1987 Sundance trunk leak by taking the
light cover off and treated the gaskets and drilled small holes in the
bottom of the light covers, so the water could leak out the bottom.

From: wgol...@draper.com (Wade M. Goldman) fixed the water in his trunk
and right tail light assembly (which caused on tail light to be dimmer
than the other). After replacing the light socket he corrected a gap
between the light assembly moulding and the car with RTV silicone.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
34. Gas gauge acts funny

Maurice H. Rich: bouncing gas gauge (1988 Wrangler).
I had a similar problem with my '76 VK Valiant wagon. The fuel gauge
pickup is a wire wound resistor with a little arm that moves
across it, and this arm is attached to the float. What happens over time
is that the wire wears very thin and eventually breaks. My gauge would
be all right until the float reached the half way point, then it would
bounce all over the place until the level fell way below half. This is
because the voltage (or other signal) coming from the pickup, simply
disappeared momentarily, and the gauge followed. I suggest you get one
from the wreckers, and if it's in good condition, it should be a simple
matter to fit it. My gauge pickup is held in place by
a circular collar, which has to be turned about 90 degrees to loosen it,
and then the assembly comes out of the tank. Just remove the wire/s
connected to it, and fit the new one, which is a reversal of removal.

I've just encountered the problem in a 1992
Voyager. I traced the problem to the sending unit. Chrysler
uses a printed circuit rheostat which can indicate a
partial tank when the tank may actually be full. The part really isn't
all that expensive. I don't think it's a bad float, on account of the tank
would read empty
in all situations. (Robert Sherman)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
36. Control/status panel acting funny

Test the Control Panel by holding down the trip and reset buttons,
turning ignition on, releasing the buttons, then pressing the US/Met
button. Read the speedo. Press the US/Met button and you should
see a six. Also check the codes in the engine computer --
(Matt Rowe)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
52. ABS note

See http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ABS.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
53. Code 52 on 86-87 2.2 engines

Check oxygen sensor, then remove the injector wiring cap and check the
color of the injector top cap; it it's black, the injector must be
replaced.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
55. Service engine light goes on.

Service the engine. The light can be shut off with a special tool. Or
remove the bulb.
--------------------------------------------
56. Cruise control problems

Many older cars used both a speed sensor and a speedo cable, so the
speed sensor could go with affecting the speedometer. Fault codes might
not appear if the speed sensor is giving an incorrect signal.
--------------------------------------------
57. Battery charging problems

Check the battery cables, then check the alternator with a test light
and/or a voltmeter or an alternator/charging system analyzer. There are
usually four connections on a Chrysler alternator, one large terminal
(power out), one ground, and two field control wires. To check the
field control wires, test both for voltage with the engine running. One
should show battery voltage, the other a reduced voltage. If both show
battery voltage, the problem could be in the computer (not providing a
ground for the second field circuit). If one has battery voltage and
the other shows a much reduced voltage, the computer probably is trying
to "full field" the alternator and therefore the alternator is probably
the problem. Check output voltage. If output voltage is extremely high
(20 volts or more) check the circuit from the output terminal to the
battery for an open. If the voltage is battery volts but not a
charging voltage and the fields seem correct, suspect the alternator.
--------------------------------------------
58. Hatchback water leaks

From: laz...@base.bellcore.com (25312-lazaro)

Water enters the trunk by running down the side of the hatch
opening and when it reaches the tail lights, it flows into them. From
there, it pours into the trunk through the holes that the tail light
bulbs fit through.

From inside the trunk, remove the tail light bulb cover panel. Now
unfasten a few of the tail light bulbs and let them hang into the trunk.
With a long 1/4 inch drill bit (or similar size), drill a few holes in
the bottom of the tail light lens by sticking the bit through the holes
the the bulbs occupied. This allows the water that enters the tail
lights to drain out these holes and onto the ground instead of
accumulating in the tail lights and pouring into the trunk through the
bulb holes. I drilled about 3 or four 1/4 inch holes per each bulb
location. Did the trick. The trunk has been bone dry ever since.I
replaced the water-damaged carpet backing with 1/2 inch household carpet
backing that I got at a home improvement store and cut to size. It
improves the sound deadening, too. The cardboard floor (spare tire
cover) was water damaged too, so I got a new one for ~$25 at the dealer.
Make sure you air dry the trunk real well. I had so much water that I
had to pull the drain plug at the bottom of the spare tire well to let
it out.

I know of Ford Probes suffering this same problem (with similar
solution) due to the same hatchback & tail light configuration.
--------------------------------------------
59. Car / minivan will not start, CLICK!s instead

David J. Allen quoted vand...@rl.af.mil as saying that, when his 89
Caravan sometimes made a loud CLICK instead of starting, he saw that the
starter solenoid contacts were eroded down the thickness of a penny.
Vandamme soldered a real copper penny, filed to the shape of the missing
electrode, into the space.

David J. Allen wrote: [On my 88 Caravan,] I tore the starter down and
found that the contacts had worn down to the point of only providing
intermittant contact when engaged. A friend of mine brought me a couple
of strips of 1/8" copper from work which I cut and formed into new
contacts. They fit right in and I haven't had a problem yet (1 1/2
years).
--------------------------------------------
60. Spongy / mushy brakes

Mushy / spongy brakes, especially after brake servicing: Have the brake
fluid bled *properly* (most mechanics will not do it the correct way). Jim
Murphy says that Chrysler has a new procedure involving pumping the brakes
to pressurize the system, then opening the bleed screw to allow the fluid
and air to rush out. The details:

1: Pump pedal three or four times and hold it down before bleeder
screw is opened
2: Push pedal toward floor and hold it while bleeder screw is opened
3: Release the pedal after the bleeder screw is closed
4: Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at each bleeder screw
to pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from
anywhere in the system.
CAUTION: Just cracking the bleeder screw often restricts fluid flow,
and a slow weak fluid discharge will NOT get all the air out. Open
the screw at least one full turn.

--------------------------------------------
61. Squeal when a/c is on; adjusting belts

You can replace the idler pulley and belt to stop the squeal on the
minivans and some other vehicles. It may go away given a month. On some
vehicles you may need to adjust belt tension, but do not overtighten, or
you will need many expensive new parts!
NOTE
Adjusting Caravan belts: A tensioner is below the alternator. Put a 15mm
wrench on it and pull down (like you were tightening that bolt) and the
tensioner will rotate and take the tension off of the belt. Much easier
from underneath by removing the splash sheild. That is held by 4 10mm
screws. BUT BE CAREFUL!!! I own 2 CC products; an '88 Caravan 2.5L and
an '89 Sundance 2.5L. AC clutch went on both at about 80,000 mi, again
on both about 30,000 mi later, again, etc., etc. Found out that if the
belts are not tightened within specs., it wipes out the bearings SOON!!!
Only use a Burroughs belt tension gauge - about $50.00. NO MORE
PROBLEMS!! Hope this helps. By the way, the Sundance has over 200,000
mi, and the Caravan has 135,000 - no other serious problems, other than
CV boot replacements.
--------------------------------------------
63. Weatherstrip repair

Marvin Stockman <msto...@oasys.dt.navy.mil> reports: I usually purchase
a caulking gun sized tube of black GE Silicon II sealant. Clean off the
damaged weatherstripping with alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Apply
an appropriate amount of sealer to damaged area. Cover area with plastic
kitchen wrap and with sealer covered form to an appropriate shape. Close
door. Car can be used and door can be opened and closed, but don't
remove plastic for 3 or 4 days. Don't use Saran wrap as most silicone
sealers need moisture to set and Saran is too good a vapor barrior. I
have done this for many years on many cars.
--------------------------------------------
64. Preventing ABS problems

Marv Miller cautions: Due to the fact that the ABS-10 uses an
accumulator, which acts as a "pressure reservoir", the fluid level in
the master cylinder varies. When the pump pressurizes the accumulator,
the fluid level in the master cylinder drops by about 1/2 inch - the
fluid went into the accumulator. This is why you are supposed to
completely depressurize the system by fifty or more depressions of the
pedal before checking the fluid. The accumulator will empty back into
the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't depressurize the system to
check the level, when the accumulator pressure drops (in deteriorating
systems this sometimes happens overnight), brake fluid will overflow
out of the master cylinder caps. The rubber "cap seals" cannot handle
this amount of fluid level change. The system needs to breathe.
Moisture gets in and is absorbed. Voila! Brake fluid contamination!
It's an imperfect world.
--------------------------------------------
66. Jeep 4.0 noise

>We recently bought a 95 Cherokee with the 4.0l 6cyl engine. After a
>couple thousand miles, it started making a knocking sound at idle. It
>sounds to me like one valve is out of adjustment.

Don Ferrario responded: This is typical of the 4.0L engine. Other than
the sound, which is admittedly alarming, it should not cause any other
problem. (note: In 1996, the 4.0 was redesigned to lower noise.)
--------------------------------------------
67. LH clunk

Michael Kell and others wrote about a clunking noise in LH models when
people coast and then accelerate again. Retorquing the front axle nuts
to 120 lb ft may fix it - but it may not (see below).

David Ta's dealer pointed him to TSB 02-04-95, which says to replace the
outer C/V joints. Mr. Ta was kind enough to inform the FAQ maintainer
in e-mail.
--------------------------------------------
68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny

This may simply be the speed-sensitive wiper speed feature at work.

However, some, including Pierce Leonberger, found that the problem was
only solved when the dealer recalibrated the wiper module, which
controls the wiper timing. There may be a TSB out on this problem.

--------------------------------------------
69. Misc 4-speed automatic transmission problems

G. Smith writes: There were substantial revisions made to the trans
computer for the '95 model year that seem to have eliminated the
"bump-stop" condition. A TSB was released in the summer of '95 which
advised that the revised programming CAN BE retrofitted to '89 and newer
A604, 41TE, and 42LE (LH).
The TSB mentions the bump-stop, hard downshifts while coasting,
delayed engagement into drive and others. Should be covered by
warranty.

MMo...@ctc.Net says: The A-604 Trans can be updated to the 95 software by
either replacing the controller or flashing the EEPROM. The fluid should
be changed and then driven 10 miles and changed again. This is covered if
you are still under warranty. Don't ever put any additives in an A-604!!!
The additives coat the inside of the pistons and seals and ruin the
transmission.
--------------------------------------------
70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph

ber...@net.bluemoon.net responds to a complaint of shimmy in a 96,000
mile 1986 Dodge Aries from 35-45 mph under accleration. He said that the
inner CV joint housing on the passenger side axle is worn. Probably
easiest repair is to replace passenger side axle with rebuilt unit.
There is a possiblity of it being in the drivers axle. But it is more
common in the passenger axle based on your complaint.

--------------------------------------------
71. Easier Shifting - Talon/Laser/Eclipse

From: Michael Butkus <butk...@lanmail.shu.edu>

For Talon/Laser/Eclipse 5 speed shifters '90-'95. I found from the
DSM.org site that synthetic gear oil (ASMoil, $7.50/pt from speed shop,
need 2 pts.) would fix things. No longer clunking or sticking gears. 4WD
needs different stuff in the rear due to the anti-slip differental.

Note: synthetic oil may help other cars, too.
--------------------------------------------
72. Gas gauge acting funny

rober...@aol.com: on a 1987 Caravan, the gas gauge kept creeping up to
full. The problem was a small circuit board, part 4375318. Dean Seaman
added the board is no longer used, but did dampen pointer movement. Some
gauges used a thick liquid instead.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
74. Backfiring

Ty Young reports that his 143,000 mile 1985 Caravan's backfiring (on
sudden decelaration) was cured by using 89 octane gas instead of 87.
(But was the timing OK?)
--------------------------------------------
75. 3.0 liter PREVENTION

Drop the oil pan after 100,000 miles and clean the screen on the oil
pick-up. Mine was choked down to an opening about the size of a dime.
The oil seems to get charred in the head closest to the firewall and
works its way down.
--------------------------------------------
76. 1996 minivan gas stuff

1996 minivan gas tanks were subject to warping. Chrysler is replacing all
affected gas tanks. There do not appear to be major delays in obtaining
parts. This does not affect safety but does reduce the gas you can put
into your tank. The gas warning indicator does tend to go off early, as
well, but this is an engineering decision.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
78. CV boot replacement

From: rib...@io.org (Old Mcgroin) replaced the CV boots on his 88
Daytona: "There is one bolt on each wheel you have to take off first.
Remove each hub
then the axles will just slide out of the tranny (along with the fliud so
catch it in a pail) On each CV joint there is one snap ring holding
everything
together. Once inside the CV there are a few ball bearings and a cage, it
all
fits together very straightforward. This was my first time with no
problems."
--------------------------------------------
79. Premier/Monaco seat belt light

mcha...@erols.com said: The chime module's contacts (under the dash
against the fire-wall near the parking brake) may fail to make good
contact. Removing the module and wiping the male contacts with a wire
brush and replacing it has worked for me twice. The locking tab is against
the firewall and force must be used to pull the module from the female
connector.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
81. Rear defroster activated by brake lights

Rivas Patrick writes that his 88 Shadow's rear defroster went on when he
hit the brakes. The problem was that the wires
going to the hatch from the roof had broken their insulation
and were touching each other when the hatch was closed.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper runs)

With regard to funny electrical things (in this case, the rear window
washer or rear wiper coming on) when starting a vehicle, or the vehicle
acting like it has a low battery, Ken Bessler <kg...@southwind.net>
advises:

The problem is one of two things: your ignition timing (no - really!)
is just a hair too far advanced or you battery is getting old. When
ignition timing is too far advanced, the engine tries to fire before the
piston gets all the way up. The piston tries to go the wrong way, fighting
the starter and causing a big voltage drop across the whole van. This
messes up the logic circuits. Listen to the way your engine cranks over
before it fires. This sound should be fairly even and smooth. If not, back
your timing up a bit. If your engine turns over smoothly, then your
battery is suspect.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
86. Fluid leaks (inside the car)

Bob Meyer <robert...@ncsu.edu> writes: If the fluid is antifreeze
(green, sweet smell, hot), you may have a heater core leak (or loose hose
connections).
If the fluid is water, most likely the AC condensation tube is blocked
(note: this refers to a Sundance/Shadow/Duster). When the AC runs on a
humid day, a puddle of water should form underneath this drain if it is
working correctly. Look on the firewall behind and below the power
steering pump - you should find a rubber tube. Make sure that nothing is
blocking the tip. If this doesn't help, you may have a bunch of leaves and
junk inside blocking it. Some times you can back flush it with a garden
hose or fish out the leaves with a wire.
If the condensation drain is open and working, and you still have water
on the floor, make sure the cowl drains are clear. The last thing would
be to check the gasket that seals the blower fan (under and behind the
glove box). If this is leaking, loosen the accessable lower screws, force
a bit of strip caulk into the seal gap, and retighten.

--------------------------------------------
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