I use my 2005 Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain ed) to pull my boat, but
my wife "encouraged" me to buy a pop-up camper, so I'd like to use my
old XJ to pull it. It's only 2,800 lbs, but my current XJ brakes suck
(always have more or less for towing), so I'm looking for any advice
on upgrading.
Has anyone here done any brake upgrades on their XJ? If so, what have
you done? Should I replace the master cylinder, upgrade the rear
drums to disc brakes, something else? I have standard size tires on
the Jeep and don't plan to upgrade to oversized anytime soon.
I'm lost in high weeds and looking for help! Thanks.
Kevin
papa...@gmail.com
>Has anyone here done any brake upgrades on their XJ? If so, what have
>you done? Should I replace the master cylinder, upgrade the rear
>drums to disc brakes, something else? I have standard size tires on
>the Jeep and don't plan to upgrade to oversized anytime soon.
I have seen GC brakes put on some XJ's. I am a bit surprized that your
brakes are weak because my wifes 2000 Cherokee has good brakes. When
it install bigger calipers and wheel cylinders fro bigger brakes they
have more displacement for fluid in them so if you increase them much
you will need to change master cylinder.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
I personally always buy the cheaper version of the brake pads as long as
the pads are riveted to the backing plates.
These are usually the softer materials which do 3 things for me, 1st
they grab really good because of all the friction, 2nd they don't
normally damage the rotors like really hard ceramic or other type pads
do so 3rd they save me money in the long run.
Having the back brakes working well also helps. I use antiseize on the
adjusters and make sure my emergency brake is always adjusted up which
keeps the back shoes adjusted.
I also do this with my CJ7 and it's 33's. I can come to a stop just as
fast beside a stock Jeep in a brake test which is nice.
I would recommend the cheap soft pads and shoes as a first upgrade.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
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>I personally always buy the cheaper version of the brake pads as long as
>the pads are riveted to the backing plates.
>
>These are usually the softer materials which do 3 things for me, 1st
>they grab really good because of all the friction, 2nd they don't
>normally damage the rotors like really hard ceramic or other type pads
>do so 3rd they save me money in the long run.
WOW, we share a common belief as I too believe softer pads that are
easier on rotors even if you have to changed them a bit more. I never
cared for hard pad and usually take them off a new vehicle shortly
after I buy it. I made the mistake of not doing it to wifes Cherokee
whyen it was new and over 2 years ago I had to replace front pads and
rotors as though the pads were not even worn down to wear sensors they
had destroyed the rotors like it had been metal to metal for weeks.
Since I replaced rotors and used softer pads the brakes have been
flawless for last few years.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Kevin,
This past winter, my '98 XJ needed new rear drums, shoes and wheel
cylinders. Rather than replacing them all, I found a wrecked '07
Liberty and pulled the rear discs. Total cost ~$225.
I started at about 8:00AM pulling the old parts, stopped on the way
home to have the rotors turned (probably was unnecessary), set to work
on my XJ, and could have finished the whole project by that night,
except it took me awhile to determine that the newer hard lines had a
metric connector, and the originals were standard.
I didn't need to change the proportioning valve. The car stops great,
and tracks straight under braking pressure.
Because I used Liberty parts rather than Gr. Cherokee or a Ford
Explorer, it was a straight bolt-on, and my stock 15" wheels still fit
fine.
I highly reccommend it.
My guide was Eric Zappe's, "High Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ
Builder's Guide". Check out http://www.ericsxj.com/
Good luck.