1986 FJ 60 Landcruiser wagon, hard start
Steve and Mary K. Gaidos
two of the pistons to fire. Have replaced sparks (and gapped)
wires, distributor cap and rotor and set valve clearance. Had
intake gasket leak but fixed that. Seems electrical but am at
a loss. Dealers of little help as well as local shops. Anyone
with a similar problem and solution? Any ideas?
myer
mike
ROBERT BAHR
the no hard problem is fuel or ignition related.To do this you need to
check to see if there is any fuel visible in the carbueretor's fuel
bowl .This is done by looking at the small glass window on the front of
the carb(do this after the vehicle has sat overnight and has not yet
been started and is on somewhat level ground)to see if the fuel is
visible.If no fuel is visible when you make this observation then it's
a good possibility that the carb needs some attention such as cleaning
the tiny passages called air bleeds.When the air bleeds become blocked
after the vehicle is shut off it begins to siphon the fuel from the
bowl causing a hard start condition after sitting for several hours.
Another thing to check is to make sure when you pull the choke knob on
the dash that the choke plate closes fully at the carb because that
would also give you a hard start condition.
As far as an ignition problem goes that is also very possible but I
personnaly would check the fuel related items first since you didn't
mention any other drivability problems.
ROB BAHR 1984 FJ60
crui...@ix.netcom.com
Steven Neuharth
have been living with the problem, but have for various reasons changed
plugs, cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, carb, egr valve; adjusted
valves; and fixed numerous intake vacuum leaks. I really thought that a
different carburetor would change it but it did not. One thing that
seemed to help was fixing a vacuum leak last weekend. It is still bad
but not quite as bad. That led me to think that the EGR was coming on
with the engine cold but that is not the case. I am going to fix an
intake manifold gasket leak next month and hoped that would do it, but it
sounds like you've been there
In the 10/95 issue of the Toyota Landcruisers Association newsletter,
there was a tech exchange letter as follows: " I've got a great 1984 LC
with the 2F motor. The engine is carburetored and has a tendency to kick
and buck when accelerating, especially when cold. I've talked to several
other TLC owners about this and it seems to be a common malady with the
carburetored engines." The response was to go with a non smog-legal
carburetor if possible. After reading this I was not sure if it could be
fixed.
I have owned it for 1 1/2 years and don't know if it was always like this.
..
If you would like to compare notes in more detail, please E-mail me.
GOOD LUCK!
Rocky Baker
says...
>
>I have an 84 FJ60 with similar problems on 'cold Phoenix mornings'. I
>have been living with the problem, but have for various reasons changed
>plugs, cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, carb, egr valve; adjusted
>valves; and fixed numerous intake vacuum leaks. I really thought that a
>different carburetor would change it but it did not. One thing that
>seemed to help was fixing a vacuum leak last weekend. It is still bad
>but not quite as bad. That led me to think that the EGR was coming on
>with the engine cold but that is not the case. I am going to fix an
>intake manifold gasket leak next month and hoped that would do it, but
it
>sounds like you've been there
>
>
I've been there too with an 85 FJ60, 2F carbed engine.
These vacuum leaks are driving me crazy! I now have a new carb and a
valve job and the intake /exhaust manifolds have been off and on two
times now. Manifolds have been machined as was the head. Torques are at
specs.
Vacuum at idle when cold is 17-18, vacuum when fully warmed at idle is
14. In order to isolate the leak, I have disabled and plugged most all
vacuum operated systems except the vac advance. Still vacuum is 14 in.
I get a significant choking of the engine idle when I spray carb cleaner
on the intake manifold gasget on cylinders 1&2.
Can someone help me please! I have been working on this problem since
July 1995 and am frustrated beyond belief.
Rocky
bak...@ucs.orst.edu
ro...@yvax.byu.edu
I hads a similar problem after I rebuilt the motor in my 73 wagon F motor
A machine shop here surfaced my manifolds as one unit and I used a Toyota
gasket. a local cruiser specialty shop says that the aftermarket gasket is
prone to leaking and recomends only using oem my experience with a couple of
other rigs has suported this. good luck
royal rose
73 FJ55 hammered but still running
ta...@imap1.asu.edu
I've got a '72 FJ-40 with low vacuum (~12-13" Hg) at idle. Like you, I also
have
an aftermarket manifold gasket, and was told the same thing you were ("use
only Toyota; this is probably your problem"). However, I can't detect
any leaks around the gasket sealing surfaces with propane or Gumout, and
have eliminated all other possibilities except the carb internals. I'd
like to
find out more specifics about your symptoms that were caused by the
aftermarket gasket (vacuum reading, etc.) Was your leak obvious and
easily detectable, or more subtle. I'm trying to make sure that my
problem really is the gasket; I'd hate to go through all of the trouble
of replacing it only to find out the problem is somewhere else. I'd hate
to think it's the carb since it's only ~6 mos. old, but this will be the
next thing I investigate if an OEM gasket and re-surfaced manifolds don't
solve the problem.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Colella
Brett A. Naquin
with cold starts. Central Texas does not get that cold but I all the
problems other people seem to have. I've replaced all the vaccume lines,
manifold gasketts, engine oil seals, etc. I don't know about the FJ-60
models after mine but I have a manual choke. When the temp is below 40
degress I open the choke all the way and it starts right up.
I just replaced my clutch for the first time and still consider this one
of the best vehicals I've ever owned.
Brett