Which company should I buy a rebuilt engine from?
Tom Baker
one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar. Any information about the
quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
To make a long story long:
When my '87 Toyota 4X4 pickup truck's 22RE 4-cyl. engine, with 150,000
miles on it, threw a rod last year and destroyed itself, I took the
recommendation of a local mechanic and bought a rebuilt engine from a
small company or shop called BPI Japanese Engines of Arizona, owned by a
man named Brian Childres. I curse the day I took his advice, without
checking around for myself. Childres sent out an engine for $1100 and I
paid the mechanic $700 to install it. The engine burned a quart of oil
every 100 miles, and was basically junk. Childres would not honor his
warranty until I served him with court papers for small claims court; then
he sent me another engine, which I installed at my expense (another $700
gone). This second engine has now thrown its timing chain and destroyed
itself (pistons hit valves). I have also received papers from Childres'
lawyer saying he has declared bankruptcy and gone out of business. So I'm
back to square one, needing an engine for my truck again, but some few
thousand dollars poorer and wiser.
THIS TIME, I am going to do some homework. I figure dealing through the
big parts chains is probably the safest bet. Here in Albuquerque we have
the standard auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, etc., and
I have been calling all of them with questions about rebuilt Toyota 22RE
engines (they all have suppliers). I am still getting prices and info.
All of these companies typically offer warranties of 12 months/12,000
miles, and for an extra $100 they will extend the warranty out to 36
months. Checker goes a little further with 18 mo./18,000 miles standard,
with an option to extend it for a couple hundred bucks to 50,000 miles.
Checker offers 22RE engines from three different suppliers: Bonded
($1600), Sparton ($1338.66), and Recon ($1526.50). Recon's engines are
ISO 9000 certified, whatever that means, if anything. I'd be willing to
buy the most expensive of the three if I knew I was getting extra quality
for the money. Believe me, I want this to be the last time I put an engine
in this truck, and I don't want any further trouble with it.
NAPA gets engines only from Bonded, but their price for it is three
hundred dollars less than Checker's: $1300 compared to Checker's $1600. Go
figure. They are both long blocks supplied by the same company. Even
stranger is that the NAPA main store in Albuquerque has a different price
than the NAPA satellite stores. The main store wants $1468, or $168 more
than the satellite store, for the same engine. The manager of the
satellite store explained that he has a little dealing room, whatever that
means. Lesson: shop around.
What I could use from anyone reading this is advice: have you bought
rebuilt engines from any of these large chain stores, and what was your
experience? Is anyone familiar with the three companies I mentioned above,
and the quality of their engines?
Any advice would be appreciated. Having been burned once, I'm going slow
and careful this time.
Thanks,
Tom
Tony M. Kimmell
>small company or shop called BPI Japanese Engines of Arizona
There's your problem... JAPANESE.
------------------------------
Tony Kimmell
Normal, IL USA
-'83 Chevy K-20 Diesel
-'74 Chevy K-20
-'85 Chevy Caprice
------------------------------
.boB
> To make a long story short, I'm considering buying a rebuilt engine from
> one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
> Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
> Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar. Any information about the
> quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
> would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
> truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
(snip)
I purchased a small block chevy from Pep Boys a couple of years ago. I
didn't have the time or space to rebuild the engine myself. I don't recall
who the supplier was. What a piece of crap that was. Had to replace that one
with another, but it also had the same problems. How do you screw up the
rebuild on a SBC?
Anyway, ended up with a GM crate motor. Cost a little more than Pep Boys
type rebuild. But well worth it.
If your local machine shop is reliable, and has a good reputation, that's
also a good way to go. Ask for references.
Plan on spending a little extra to get a good rebuild. Also, if you have
the local machine shop do it, they can do a few extras at little or no cost -
flattop pistons, molly rings, RV cam, etc. I'll bet for $100 he'll do a mild
polish job on the heads.
--
.boB
97 H-D 1200 XLHS 95 Ram 1500 CC/LWB
97 H-D FXDWG 83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 (beater)
97 Yamaha TW-200 65 Shelby Cobra 427 (project)
98 Kawasaki KE100
Hillbilly
But you were at the head of your troll class I bet.
On 15 Sep 1999 18:48:17 GMT, mayt...@aol.comAOLSUCKS (Tony
M. Kimmell) wrote:
:>bought a rebuilt engine from a
Tom Baker
rebuilt by the Bonded company. They put out a brochure showing everything
they do to an engine when rebuilding it, and the work seems pretty
thorough and looks good, but of course anybody can make things look good
in a brochure. For an extra $100 they will extend the 12mo./unlimited
miles warranty to 36 months/36,000 miles, covering both parts and labor
(labor at $36 an hour, up to $400.) Seems like decent protection,
depending on their attitude, since they reserve the right to decide each
claim case-by-case what to do and how much to allow.
So, has anybody here bought an engine from the Bonded Co? (and if you
bought from NAPA, you bought from Bonded, apparently, since that's the
only brand NAPA offers around here). If you have bought one, or know
anything about this company or NAPA engines, I'd sure appreciate hearing
about it.
Bob, a few messages ago, said he got a small block Chevy from Pep Boys
that was a stinker, and Bonded is one of the three companies that Pep Boys
buys from. Was that a Bonded engine, Bob?
Thanks,
Tom
Fox Valley Ranch
Tom Baker wrote in message ...
>To make a long story short, I'm considering buying a rebuilt engine from
>one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
>Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
>Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar. Any information about the
>quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
>would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
>truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
>
>
SNIP
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Try these:
PLOW78
engines start
Tony M. Kimmell
>But you were at the head of your troll class I bet.
30 (hell, even 20) years ago Japanese cars were shit. and IMO they still are.
What, you want to take my opinion away because I don't like little 4-banger
POS's??
Tom Baker
by the big chain stores are not so hot, compared to letting a local shop
rebuild one.
Well, I checked around, and there's a shop here in town called Performance
Plus that rebuilds and installs engines, and they will furnish a 22RE
engine at a price $150 less than a rebuilt one from NAPA (which is the
cheapest I could find from an auto parts chain store). The owner of this
shop said that if he doesn't have a 22RE on hand, he will rebuild mine,
and says it will only take a couple days.
But the thing is, I wonder if a local shop can do all the stuff the big
national company does, or claims to do, when it rebuilds an engine for
NAPA. According to the NAPA brochure, the Bonded Co. (who furnishes their
engines) does things like shot-blasting all parts, chemical etching
(Parkerizing) them to make oil adhere, cutting valve seat edges to
multiple angles on "Serdi" machines (whatever they are), machines rod big
ends on "power stroker" machines and "diamond bores" the small ends,
matches rod sets by weight, installs rings "with mechanical spreaders to
eliminate twist," etc. etc. and finally runs the finished engine on a
computerized "Sim-Test" machine that measures "oil flow, oil pressure,
volume, compression, oil flow patterns, noise, lifter spin, pushrod and
rocker arm oiling, valve action, adjustment, and timing, etc." If all of
that stuff is true, the quality control of one of these Bonded Co. engines
that NAPA sells ought to be pretty good.
Can a local engine rebuilding shop compete with all that high-tech stuff?
Or would any good local rebuilding shop have the same kind of machines and
capabilities? And can a local shop test an engine before installing it,
like Bonded does, or do they just install it i my truck and let me test
it? It's midnight now, but tomorrow I'll make more phone calls and try to
find some of these things out. Any opinions from readers here, though,
would be most welcome.
Still looking at the options,
Tom
Hillbilly
can shut up everyone with a uninformed attitude about cars.
I will be using "gatekeepers" who will be blocking every
bridge, doorway, and highway. These gatekeepers will ask a
list of questions that will identify every ignorant jerk in
the world and they will be "processed" on the spot. I call
it the "Finals Soloution" cause it's will be a real final
test for the ignorant.
On 16 Sep 1999 01:46:00 GMT, mayt...@aol.comAOLSUCKS (Tony
M. Kimmell) wrote:
:>I see you missed the last 30 years of automotive history.
JustRichie
Bonded company is almost insolvent at this point. Check their stock prices for
the last year on the net.
Shot blasting - no big deal. cheaper than cleaning with water.
Parkerizing - Done to reground cams. If the re-builder uses a new cam it is
already parkerized.
Serdi - makes a fast, exact 3 angle valve job, can be duplicated with a stone,
but most larger machine shops have a serdi type cutter.
Power stroker - mainly saves time and provides repeatability. Rods can be done
more exactly on a hand machine but take much longer.
Mechanical spredders - No big deal $10 dollar tool.
Sim test - Good Machine. It lets you test the motor. It catches mistakes.
Most of the above items save time and money. They also take the human variable
out of the product. An experienced machinist can do these things well. Most
larger rebuilders will have most of these tools. I'd check www.aera.org and
Find a rebuilder in your area.
Rich
1997 TJ
GOTDURT
Take out the "trash" to reply.
http://members.aol.com/justrichie/auto/index.htm
Of course thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. -- Dennis Miller
James D. Kountz
with this picture??
LOL
Hillbilly wrote in message <4+rgN5jIX7clEQ...@4ax.com>...
Joe & Susana
prices and sterling reputation for rebuilt 22re's. if you have some cash and
want some performance, try lc engineering (www.lcengineering.com) or doa
racing engines (www.doaracingengines.com).
ignore the morons here. i've yet to see an american engine go past 100K w/
out a rebuild. but i'm sure every 784 chevy owner here is the exception to
the rule. :-)
joe
Tom Baker wrote in message ...
>To make a long story short, I'm considering buying a rebuilt engine from
>one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
>Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
>Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar. Any information about the
>quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
>would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
>truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
>
>To make a long story long:
>
JustRichie
>out a rebuild.
You don't see enough american engines then. I see 10 a week coming into the
shop with 100k+ And my Chevy pickup has 168,000 on it. I'll be replacing the
engine next month, but only cause it smokes, power is still great.
On the other side of the coin I also see 10 foriegn cars a week with 100k+ on
them. It has been my experience that foriegn cars tend to come in with more
miles on them than American cars. To be more accurate OHC foriegn cars.
Tony M. Kimmell
>out a rebuild. but i'm sure every 784 chevy owner here is the exception to
>the rule. :-)
You obviously haven't been around any older Chevys, then.
Best friend's '73 Impala -- 213,000 mi.
Neighbor's '70 Townsman -- 239,000 mi.
Dad's '81 Monte Carlo -- 172,000 mi.
Dad's '79 Malibu -- 147,000 mi.
Uncle's '76 Caprice -- 207,000 mi.
My '85 Caprice -- 121,000 mi.
I guess that you will say that all 6 of these are "exeptions to the rule?"
None of these vehicles had rebuilt engines.
And people say that I'm "blindly loyal." The above are a few of the reasons
that I buy Chevys!
Tony M. Kimmell
>with this picture??
>
>LOL
I dunno, but I haven't heard him say one pleasant thing since I joined this NG
4 months ago.
Chucks Chevy Truck Pages
>From: jay...@nmia.com (Tom Baker)
>To make a long story short, I'm considering buying a rebuilt engine from
>one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
>Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
>Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar.
::::::::::::snip
Have you considered Jasper?
I'm very happy with mine. They have distributors all over the USA. They also
sell transmissions, t cases, and outdrives for boats. I had bad luck with a
company called ATK. AVOID THEM!!! Had 2 motors blow a rod, with less than 2,000
miles on them. Funny, they were knocking LOUD, but still had good oil pressure.
My brother had an ATK go at 5,000 miles in his Dodge. Jasper is holding up to
towing, and snowplowing fine.
~Chuck
==+==+==+I OWN + 80 GMC K/25+==+==+77 Chevy K/20==+==+==+
Check out my 73-87 Chevy Truck pages,all C/K models,lots of tech.Links
http://members.aol.com/csmith669/chevy.html
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/csmith669/chevy.html">Chuck's Chevy Pages</
tjgat...@webtv.net
husbands 87 chevy & the engine had 180,000 on it & everyone was asking
what you got under that hood. We replied just a stock 350.
Candy
Enjoy the journey of life, Because its the journey we take that makes
us who we are.
Brian Lew
You are doing the right thing in researching their products and comparison
shopping. Any good, competent machine shop will be able to produce an
engine that exceeds the "official" specs. Good luck in your search.
Tom Baker wrote in message ...
Joe & Susana
father's new 82 bonneville: blown engine within 10k
my 75 impala: blown engine at 92k
my 78 bonneville: blown engine at 101k (hey, there's an exception)
my 82 camaro: blown engine at 86k, 2 blown trannies
my 75 catalina: blown engine at ~90k
my 73 chevelle: blown engine at 36k, also rear axle snapped off one night,
made for an interesting ride
wife's 82 toyota tercel: still chugging at 182k when we sold it, needed an
alternator once
my 94 toyota: only 83k miles, never a repair and runs extremely well
you're right tony, i shouldn't ignore blind, ignorant loyalty. wish i still
owned chevy/gm so i could get a new one every other year.
joe
Tony M. Kimmell wrote in message
<19990916223203...@ng-fp1.aol.com>...
>>ignore the morons here. i've yet to see an american engine go past 100K w/
>>out a rebuild. but i'm sure every 784 chevy owner here is the exception to
>>the rule. :-)
>
>You obviously haven't been around any older Chevys, then.
>
>Best friend's '73 Impala -- 213,000 mi.
>Neighbor's '70 Townsman -- 239,000 mi.
>Dad's '81 Monte Carlo -- 172,000 mi.
>Dad's '79 Malibu -- 147,000 mi.
>Uncle's '76 Caprice -- 207,000 mi.
>My '85 Caprice -- 121,000 mi.
>
>I guess that you will say that all 6 of these are "exeptions to the rule?"
>None of these vehicles had rebuilt engines.
>
>And people say that I'm "blindly loyal." The above are a few of the
reasons
>that I buy Chevys!
>
F450
every 40K, his Fords just keep on going.
Vogt
>
> Have you considered Jasper?
>
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I'm very happy with mine. They have distributors all over the USA. They also
> sell transmissions, t cases, and outdrives for boats. I had bad luck with a
> company called ATK. AVOID THEM!!! Had 2 motors blow a rod, with less than 2,000
> miles on them. Funny, they were knocking LOUD, but still had good oil pressure.
> My brother had an ATK go at 5,000 miles in his Dodge. Jasper is holding up to
> towing, and snowplowing fine.
I recall on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts mailing list, some discussion
about a Jasper rebuild a while back. Seems the owner had to send it
back 4 times for replacement and I think he ended up with his money back
and went to a local shop. IMO the national rebuilders are all about the
same level of quality.
Birken
F450
E. Furrer
Tony M. Kimmell
>my 75 impala: blown engine at 92k
>my 78 bonneville: blown engine at 101k (hey, there's an exception)
>my 82 camaro: blown engine at 86k, 2 blown trannies
>my 75 catalina: blown engine at ~90k
>my 73 chevelle: blown engine at 36k, also rear axle snapped off one night,
>made for an interesting ride
>wife's 82 toyota tercel: still chugging at 182k when we sold it, needed an
>alternator once
>my 94 toyota: only 83k miles, never a repair and runs extremely well
>
>you're right tony, i shouldn't ignore blind, ignorant loyalty. wish i still
>owned chevy/gm so i could get a new one every other year.
>
Jesus Christ... I hate to see the way you drive your vehicles!
Bill Beyer
Chevy, Ford, Dodge even AMC and most of 'em have never even had the valve
covers off. You obviously haven't seen very many American motors if you're
making a rash statement like that.
--
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
Joe & Susana wrote in message ...
Bill Beyer
that many motors if that's what's really happening. What's your definition
of "blown engine?" I used to race my 70 Camaro at Sears Point every Wed
night and never "blew up" the motor. I did have to replace a rocker arm
once, maybe that counts as a "blown engine".
--
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
Joe & Susana wrote in message ...
>hmmmm, let's see:
Joe & Susana
filters, everything by the owner's manual. always, without exception. but
with my gm engines, i've had oil pumps seize and toast the engine, my impala
actually had a piston blow through the top end, the bonneville my father
owned just plain died, no explanation from gm (he used the money to go get a
ford, which ran fine for 10 yrs), the camaro throttle went nutso on a city
street (me in a 35mph zone doing the speed limit) and revved past redline
until the engine just blew, on and on. the only one i can forgive is the
chevelle, i bought it off an old lady in the mid-80s and think the thing was
just in bad straits from underuse.
i realize gm makes decent (but horribly ugly) products these days. the 82
bonneville was the last new gm in our family, and i will never buy one
again.
the other thing w/ them is: my father just retired from a steel mill which
is a huge supplier to all automakers. he has never allowed a chrysler
product in our drive (parts are junk). he made parts for gm, and they just
did not care about quality -- it's all about how they can get decent pieces
for cheap. knowing that ford, honda, toyota, etc actually require parts to
be within a wide range of different specs or they reject the parts makes me
feel a little bit better.
o, so you guys don't think i abuse vehicles, here's some more:
again, the wife's 82 tercel, 182k and going strong when sold, new alternator
at like 154k
my 94 toyota 4x4 v6, "only" 83k
79 ford thunderbird, was at 140k when i got rid of it, no problems
my first beloved (not!) car, 74 dart slant v6 i got at 80k, kept until 150k,
sold to my neighbor, he still drives the stoopid thing.
i've had a couple others in there -- ford ranger, wife's mazda protege --
that we never had problems with, but didn't own long enough to see how
they'd be at 100k. i also have taken care of my sister's 89 (?) vw golf
which she sold this past week w/ almost 200k on it, no engine repairs.
joe
moses
Tony M. Kimmell wrote in message
>>bought a rebuilt engine from a
>
>There's your problem... JAPANESE.
My 84 Toyota Landcruiser is doing fine
My 92 Toyota Previa is doing fine. Had a siezed brake which had to be
replaced, but with >200,000km I think that is ok
My 86 Dodge Caravan died after two engines
My 96 Dodge Neon is having some serious front end problems.
Yeah, you are probably right tho, I probably just got lucky with my Japanese
vehicles. Of course the problem with my 'domestics' was that they are
Dodges not Chevy's wouldn't that be right?
Ian
moses
Tony M. Kimmell wrote in message
>What, you want to take my opinion away because I don't like little 4-banger
Thats not what you said. You infered that Japanese were not good engines.
The USA make '4 bangers' too you know!
Ian
moses
Hillbilly wrote in message <4+rgN5jIX7clEQ...@4ax.com>...
> I call it the "Finals Soloution" cause it's will be a real final test for
the ignorant.
Wasn't that a baseball game?
Ian
moses
Tom Baker wrote in message ...
>one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
>Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
>quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
>would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
>truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
Sorry to hear your horror story. I don't suppose you have your original
motor? Personally, I would pay to have someone re-build THAT engine if
possible. If it was totalled, then my next option would be to buy a second
hand engine from a wrecker. If you are lucky you can get a good one. If
THAT doesn't work, my third option would be to see how much a NEW engine
would cost from Toyota. While it would cost a LOT, it would be a damned
good and strong motor. May be too much tho!
Check around!
Ian
Eugene Nine
by the age mot likely had the mitsu 3.0L, or the mitsu 4 banger. the ones
with the 3.3L dodge engine never have a problem
Eugene
moses <ian.n...@no.spam.please.usa.net> wrote in message
news:pfTE3.125$_91...@198.235.216.4...
>
> Tony M. Kimmell wrote in message
Joe & Susana
Eugene Nine wrote in message ...
>you hit it there, the neon is mostly a mitsubishi, and the caravan, judging
>by the age mot likely had the mitsu 3.0L, or the mitsu 4 banger. the ones
>with the 3.3L dodge engine never have a problem
>Eugene
NEVER? wow, i bet then all of my relatives who have had problems with this
engine in their vans were abducted by aliens for experimentation or
something. NEVER. hmmm. then i also have to ask, if this engine is 100%
trouble-free, why did chrysler not put it into all of their vehicles? it'd
save them money (tooling, mfg) and help their piss-poor reputation -- you
know, "engineered to be great cars for 18 months".
joe
Eugene Nine
There may be a lot of mitsu owners who say there engine never brok down on
them, but preventative rebiulds don't count as problem free to me.
Eugene
Joe & Susana <joe...@nospam.stratos.net> wrote in message
news:ru89ki...@corp.supernews.com...
J. Gross
avoid a place in Tracy called 'Engine Exchange'.
I bought a piece of crap engine that was sold as a 'great running' motor that
was:
1. Not the same displacement as promised.
2. Containing a damaged cam shaft, oil pan, sump, oil pump, exhaust manifold,
& carb.
3. Burned about a quart of oil every 75 to 100 miles.
The owner (Jim) gave me $50 back because he lied to me about the size of the
engine (it was smaller than advertised), but never followed through with his
promise of a replacement engine.
Stick with a big chain or a local shop that you can get a dozen or more local
references from.
Call the references, too.
Good luck,
Jeff
--
If there's ever an obscene noise to be made on an instrument, it's gonna come
out of a guitar! ... The guitar makes a stink noise, that's why I like it!!
- - Frank Zappa
Todd Johansson
Does anyone really care what you have on blocks in front of your trailer
home?? OH, and by the way, '77 Toyota Corrola 189,457 mi., '84 Toyota PU
171,012 mi., '78 IH Scout II 382,565 mi. Yep, 382,565 mi. The last true
American vehicle. No rebuilds either.
Tony M. Kimmell (mayt...@aol.comAOLSUCKS) wrote:
: >ignore the morons here. i've yet to see an american engine go past 100K w/
: >out a rebuild. but i'm sure every 784 chevy owner here is the exception to
: >the rule. :-)
: You obviously haven't been around any older Chevys, then.
: Best friend's '73 Impala -- 213,000 mi.
: Neighbor's '70 Townsman -- 239,000 mi.
: Dad's '81 Monte Carlo -- 172,000 mi.
: Dad's '79 Malibu -- 147,000 mi.
: Uncle's '76 Caprice -- 207,000 mi.
: My '85 Caprice -- 121,000 mi.
: I guess that you will say that all 6 of these are "exeptions to the rule?"
: None of these vehicles had rebuilt engines.
: And people say that I'm "blindly loyal." The above are a few of the reasons
: that I buy Chevys!
: ------------------------------
: Tony Kimmell
: Normal, IL USA
: -'83 Chevy K-20 Diesel
: -'74 Chevy K-20
: -'85 Chevy Caprice
: ------------------------------
--
Todd C. Johansson "T-o-dubs"
Columbus MinuteMen (www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Slope/3352)
| WWOPG | TIP | PIG | PPIG | OSOK | NAAPSA | NRA | COG | TOG | ATA |
"Si hoc legere scis nimium eruditiomis habes."
Tom Baker
blown motor. After looking at all the options, and prices, and considering
eveybody's opinions here, it sounded to me like the best thing to do was
to find a local rebuilder rather than buy a remanufactured engine from one
of the national chain stores. I checked around town here and found a shop
that specializes in removing a vehicle's engine, rebuilding it, and
re-installing it. This puts the whole thing on a more personal basis, and
I suspect, from what I have learned here, that an engine carefully rebuilt
by one mechanic will turn out superior to one that went down an assembly
with a lot of people working on it, like they do at Bonded, in Los
Angeles, the company that supplies rebuilt engines to NAPA, Pep Boys,
Checker, etc. Best of all, the price of a local rebuild was better: $1150
compared to $1400 (NAPA) or $1600 (Pep Boys, same engine). And if anything
goes wrong later, I can deal face-to-face with the guy who rebuilt the
engine, right here in town, instead of getting some voice on the phone
long-distance, like before.
Now, while this guy is rebuilding my engine next week, can anybody suggest
something IO can get him to do (inexpensively, of course) to get a little
more power out of this little 4-banger? This pickup could sure use a
little more hit when hauling a big load.
BTW, since this has partly turned into a duscussion of engine longevity,
let me offer my experience with my little Geo Metro, which I bought new in
1991. It now has 209,000 miles on its tiny little 3-cylinder engine, and
runs as well as it ever did, which is great. I did nothing at all to it up
to 100,000 except change the oil every 3-5,000 miles, and replace some
tires and an air filter, and then at 100K I put three new spark plugs into
it, which my wife claims made it run a little slower (maybe I didn't gap
them right). We run down the highway in this little thing at 80 mph+ most
of the time. Also at around 100,000 mi. I renewed the brakes, and the Geo
ran with no further attention to 175,000 miles, when I had the timing belt
changed just because somebody told me I ought to. At 200,000k I put a new
alternator on it because the original one started to make squeaking
noises. Two weeks ago, at 208,000 miles, the water pump went out, and I
had it replaced. The mechanic who replaced it suggested a new set of
ignition wires, so I let him do that. So now, on we go now from 209,000,
wondering how long this thing can keep running. I never ran a car this far
before. I believe the Geo engine is Japanese, isn't it? I don't care what
it is, it sure runs.
Tom
Scott (Unit 69)
Still burns the tires off!! Stock 305. And everybody says a Chevy
won't do it. I had over 150K on my '65 Mustang (200cid straight 6).
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Brian Stafford
but in the two days she had it, before financing was even secured, the tranny
went. She got a breeze for two days, nice car. When they finally got financing
for her, the van was still waiting for an electronic 4spd autotransaxle, she
opted for a 94 Areostar w/3.0 and AOD instead. just a note, the caravan didn't
even have an outside door handle.
Brian Stafford
other groups too, didn't this guy use a differnt company name before?) and
wanted your money.
Tom Baker wrote:
> To make a long story short, I'm considering buying a rebuilt engine from
> one of the big auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, Auto
> Zone, etc. They all seem to have the same suppliers, such as Bonded,
> Sparton, and Recon., and prices are similar. Any information about the
> quality of these rebuilt engines would be appreciated, thanks. The option
> would be to have a local machine shop remove the blown engine from my
> truck, rebuild it, and put it back.
>
> To make a long story long:
>
> When my '87 Toyota 4X4 pickup truck's 22RE 4-cyl. engine, with 150,000
> miles on it, threw a rod last year and destroyed itself, I took the
> recommendation of a local mechanic and bought a rebuilt engine from a
> small company or shop called BPI Japanese Engines of Arizona, owned by a
> man named Brian Childres. I curse the day I took his advice, without
> checking around for myself. Childres sent out an engine for $1100 and I
> paid the mechanic $700 to install it. The engine burned a quart of oil
> every 100 miles, and was basically junk. Childres would not honor his
> warranty until I served him with court papers for small claims court; then
> he sent me another engine, which I installed at my expense (another $700
> gone). This second engine has now thrown its timing chain and destroyed
> itself (pistons hit valves). I have also received papers from Childres'
> lawyer saying he has declared bankruptcy and gone out of business. So I'm
> back to square one, needing an engine for my truck again, but some few
> thousand dollars poorer and wiser.
>
> THIS TIME, I am going to do some homework. I figure dealing through the
> big parts chains is probably the safest bet. Here in Albuquerque we have
> the standard auto parts stores such as NAPA, Checker, Pep Boys, etc., and
> I have been calling all of them with questions about rebuilt Toyota 22RE
> engines (they all have suppliers). I am still getting prices and info.
>
> All of these companies typically offer warranties of 12 months/12,000
> miles, and for an extra $100 they will extend the warranty out to 36
> months. Checker goes a little further with 18 mo./18,000 miles standard,
> with an option to extend it for a couple hundred bucks to 50,000 miles.
>
> Checker offers 22RE engines from three different suppliers: Bonded
> ($1600), Sparton ($1338.66), and Recon ($1526.50). Recon's engines are
> ISO 9000 certified, whatever that means, if anything. I'd be willing to
> buy the most expensive of the three if I knew I was getting extra quality
> for the money. Believe me, I want this to be the last time I put an engine
> in this truck, and I don't want any further trouble with it.
>
> NAPA gets engines only from Bonded, but their price for it is three
> hundred dollars less than Checker's: $1300 compared to Checker's $1600. Go
> figure. They are both long blocks supplied by the same company. Even
> stranger is that the NAPA main store in Albuquerque has a different price
> than the NAPA satellite stores. The main store wants $1468, or $168 more
> than the satellite store, for the same engine. The manager of the
> satellite store explained that he has a little dealing room, whatever that
> means. Lesson: shop around.
>
> What I could use from anyone reading this is advice: have you bought
> rebuilt engines from any of these large chain stores, and what was your
> experience? Is anyone familiar with the three companies I mentioned above,
> and the quality of their engines?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated. Having been burned once, I'm going slow
> and careful this time.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
Brian Stafford
Ford van w/302 has 143k, 78 Chevy 3/4 had over 160k before it threw a rod on the
freeway (rear main went), though my 84 tercel has 220k (needs head gasket now) and
my 81 BMW had 235k and ran like it was new (bought for $500 in pristeen condition,
cept for cracked leather, from the original owner a BMW mechanic) Never had a
rebuild, but then again I usualy dump the vehicle when it gets near that point.
JustRichie wrote:
> Joe enlightened us:>i've yet to see an american engine go past 100K w/
> >out a rebuild.
>
> You don't see enough american engines then. I see 10 a week coming into the
> shop with 100k+ And my Chevy pickup has 168,000 on it. I'll be replacing the
> engine next month, but only cause it smokes, power is still great.
>
> On the other side of the coin I also see 10 foriegn cars a week with 100k+ on
> them. It has been my experience that foriegn cars tend to come in with more
> miles on them than American cars. To be more accurate OHC foriegn cars.
>
>
> Rich
>
> 1997 TJ
> GOTDURT
> Take out the "trash" to reply.
> http://members.aol.com/justrichie/auto/index.htm
> Of course thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. -- Dennis Miller
Brian Stafford
Brian Stafford
for power, but they are truely indestructable, the body will be gone before
the engine dies. The only problems i'v evere seen on them is blown head
gaskets from people reving them hard like race cars.....BTW we had a 94 2door,
3cyl, auto (hell) for about a month, the a/c sucked (big windows, little
engine, little compressor, Az summer) and it sounded like a lawnmower engine
from hell but it was a decent little car to get around town in. One payment
after it was bought and some rich b**ches in a JGC decided that it was ok to
make a right turn on a red, cross 3 lanes of traffic and almost kill me. The
damage didn't look too bad from the outside, but apparently, it's not hard to
total a metro.
Bill Beyer
is waaay beyond 100K. I don't think it's unreasonable to have to put some
significant $ into an engine after 150K. Think about the kind of stresses
that a typical IC engine is going through and even with perfect maintenance
it's going to wear out. I've NEVER had an engine "blow up" on me except when
I deliberately pushed it beyond it's design specs. I have rebuilt plenty of
motors with less than 200K on them just because I wanted them to perform at
a higher level than they were originally manufactured for. I've also seen
several "foreign" engines expire well before 200K.
--
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
Benjamin Lee wrote in message <37E54A...@ibm.net>...
>Having an engine that go over 100k is no big deal. An engine that can
>go over 200k is a very durable engine. You are not specific on what is
>"waaay beyond 100k". That could mean 10k over 100k which is no big
>deal. To me, that would be considered a piece of junk.
Joe & Susana
are made where? canada eh? dodge and ford in mexico? honda in ohio?
this "buy american" b.s. is dead. the american carmakers make their stuff
overseas and the foreign makers make them here. you have japanese parts in
yer beloved chebbies, and i have american parts in my toyota. they all
intermingle, kinda like backwoods illinois families intermarrying and
shit........
joe
>What is this trailer home crap? I live in a goddamned house. And I love
>IH's... why are you putting them in with toyotas?
>
>People say I'm closed minded because I like Chevys. Well, I also like IH,
AMC,
>Dodge, etc.
>
>I also don't really mind fords (I'd just buy a Chevy over one of them).
They
>are all American... that's all that matters.
Tony M. Kimmell
>overseas and the foreign makers make them here. you have japanese parts in
>yer beloved chebbies, and i have american parts in my toyota. they all
>intermingle, kinda like backwoods illinois families intermarrying and
>shit........
>
>joe
Hmm... what foreign parts does my '74 Chevy have?
Eugene Nine
got noisy at 70k miles. My dad was a machinist so he got me some new
bearings made in the us and they have been fine for 100k miles so far. Our
dodge van had a few parts made by mitsubishi, and it kept stalling. as soon
as i replaced all the mitsu parts its been fine. So even if you do get an
american made vehicle with crappy jap parts, you can easily fix it with
aftermarket.
Eugene
Tony M. Kimmell <mayt...@aol.comAOLSUCKS> wrote in message
news:19990920233810...@ng-fz1.aol.com...
Chris Taylor Jr.
they stopped doing that in 74 :-) hehehe
It was obvious he was reffering to current day IE the present of which he is
overall correct
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http://www.nerys.com/rocketry/
http://www.nerys.com/myjeep/
Chris Taylor Jr.
I am not sure if it is an american engine (I think it is)
I have 208,000 original miles NO rebuild or ANY major repairs
I need a new engine BADLY but that is because at 150,000 miles I sucked a
quart and a half of MUD into the crankcase and drive it 70 miles home (did
not know it till I checked it after wheeling)
I have since driven this poor dead destroyed engine to 208,000 miles (just
hit that today) and it just keep on going and going and going
I have to feed it anywhere from 2-4 quarts of oil a week (just about every
seal leaks (mud does that :-) and I use 50 weight oil with a bottle of hitac
(a mus tin the summer MUCH better in winter when it is colder)
and it just keeps on going and NO engine repairs at ALL !!!
Starter twice
once from mud and second (last week) from engine oil leak fillinf starter
with oil
3 alternators (all mud tearing apart bearing in back of alternator)
1 water pump when I first got it 4 years ago
1 radiator upgraded to 2 core extra capacity to handle engine dying problem
(IE as it dies it produces more and more heat and eventually overran the old
radiator otherwise theold rad was fine)
NOW THAT is an Engine !!
I hope soon to retire this truck and get myself a Grand Wagoneer I have been
drooling over since the wagoneer will cost me less than a new engine for my
poor poor cherokee
Had I not taken on that mud (which most people and mechanics say that engine
has no right still running after what I did to it :-) I would easily have
cleared 300,000 miles and probably a lot more without a rebuild !
This engine is so dead I would not trust rebuilding it I am going to get a
remanufactured engine
NOTHING but the best for my baby :-)
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-----
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Joe & Susana <joe...@nospam.stratos.net> wrote in message
news:ru2vna...@corp.supernews.com...
> try east coast performance in north carolina (they have a web site). good
> prices and sterling reputation for rebuilt 22re's. if you have some cash
and
> want some performance, try lc engineering (www.lcengineering.com) or doa
> racing engines (www.doaracingengines.com).
>
> ignore the morons here. i've yet to see an american engine go past 100K w/
> out a rebuild. but i'm sure every 784 chevy owner here is the exception to
> the rule. :-)
>
> joe
>
>
> Tom Baker wrote in message ...
Tony M. Kimmell
>
>they stopped doing that in 74 :-) hehehe
>
>It was obvious he was reffering to current day IE the present of which he is
>overall correct
That is one reason why I DO NOT buy anything newer than the early 80's.
Roger Mangin
very good comments about Jasper rebuilt engines. Good luck with
whatever you choose.
--
Roger.