Dupont Imron Paint --- Which and how good? Clear coat?
Mark Sullivan
I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint. I understand that it is
"very" durable and looks very nice. Is Imron as good as they say? I know
that it can be clear coated or not, but is it of any benefit to do so with
this stuff? I've heard that if I clear coat it, scratches turn white?
There are also several types, 4000, 5000, 6000. Which is best? what is
the difference?
Mark
Clarence Snyder
"Mark Sullivan" <sull...@blarg.net> wrote:
>Mark
Not sure of current product, but I had Imron with Imron Clear on 57 PU
in mid 70's
Extremely durable, and if you use IMRON clear, no problems.
This stuff is so tough they use it on tankers carrying super
concentrated Sulphuric acid!!!!!
g-w...@ix.netcom.com
Mark Sullivan wrote:
>
> I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
> parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint. I understand that it is
> "very" durable and looks very nice. Is Imron as good as they say? I know
> that it can be clear coated or not, but is it of any benefit to do so with
> this stuff? I've heard that if I clear coat it, scratches turn white?
> There are also several types, 4000, 5000, 6000. Which is best? what is
> the difference?
>
> Mark
I have experience as a car owner with Imron w/o clear coat, and acrylic
enamel with clear coat. The winner by far is plain Imron. My
dissatisfaction with the clear coat job may be due to the painter's lack
of prep. My car with the clear coat has slight sanding scratches that
show up in the color coat. Since the clear coat now covers the color
coat, the scratches are permanent. There is no way to color sand a
clear coat.
Imron is very hard to handle, since the vapors are toxic. It's
expensive,too. My Pinto has an Imron paint job that is now 17 years
old, and it still looks good.
My next car will have an acrylic enamel paint job without clear coat.
This way, any nicks can be fixed, and any imperfections can be sanded
and buffed out. It may require more maintenance, but the long-term
benefits are worth it.
Gerard.
Trevor Sadler
g-w...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> My next car will have an acrylic enamel paint job without clear coat.
> This way, any nicks can be fixed, and any imperfections can be sanded
> and buffed out. It may require more maintenance, but the long-term
> benefits are worth it.
I'll agree with this. I just painted my 944 with DuPont Centari acrylic
enamel (which is a single coat paint) and I'm very happy with the
results after rubbing out the paint. The centari was easy to work with
(I painted the car in my driveway) and easy to fix mistakes. I used the
catalyst with the paint so it's quite durable.
Finally, I think Centari is quite a bit cheaper than Imron (I paid $70
for a gallon of paint, $18 for reducer and $38 for the hardener - the
only other thing I needed was some Flexar for my spoiler - about $30).
regards,
trev.
===============================
Trevor Sadler
Mastering Engineer, Narada Media
Email: trev...@mixcom.com
Web: http://www.mixweb.com/llyyll/sadler.html
Mastering Info: http://www.mixweb.com/llyyll/masterhome.html
Don Sterner
On Tue, 22 Oct 96 00:12:39 GMT, Matt Quinones said.....
>
>In article <326B15...@mixcom.com>,
> Trevor Sadler <trev...@mixcom.com> wrote:
>>g-w...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>>
>>> My next car will have an acrylic enamel paint job without clear coat.
>>> This way, any nicks can be fixed, and any imperfections can be sanded
>>> and buffed out. It may require more maintenance, but the long-term
>>> benefits are worth it.
>>
>>I'll agree with this. I just painted my 944 with DuPont Centari acrylic
>>enamel (which is a single coat paint) and I'm very happy with the
>>results after rubbing out the paint. The centari was easy to work with
>>(I painted the car in my driveway) and easy to fix mistakes. I used the
>>catalyst with the paint so it's quite durable.
>>
>>Finally, I think Centari is quite a bit cheaper than Imron (I paid $70
>>for a gallon of paint, $18 for reducer and $38 for the hardener - the
>>only other thing I needed was some Flexar for my spoiler - about $30).
>>
> did you have a problem with the fumes? i heard that newer paints
>caused problems with breathing, especially the flexor additive.
> matt
The most toxic fumes comes from the isocyanate hardeners. These are
very carcinogenic. They should be used only with a full-filter mask
or a fresh air system, and should not be allowed to contact the skin.
This hardener is used in almost all acrylics and acrylic urethanes
which are on the market today.
bi...@cts.com
"Mark Sullivan" <sull...@blarg.net> wrote:
>I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
>parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint. I understand that it is
>"very" durable and looks very nice. Is Imron as good as they say? I know
>that it can be clear coated or not, but is it of any benefit to do so with
>this stuff? I've heard that if I clear coat it, scratches turn white?
>There are also several types, 4000, 5000, 6000. Which is best? what is
>the difference?
>Mark
Imron is probably the most durable paint available right now. If you
don't use a fresh air mask when you paint with it, you are gonna be
real sick. Nice thing about Imron...... you can paint flames, logos,
graphics over it using lacquer, and if ya don't like them, just
wash'em off with lacquer thinner and try again.
BIlly
Matt Quinones
In article <326B15...@mixcom.com>,
Trevor Sadler <trev...@mixcom.com> wrote:
>g-w...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> My next car will have an acrylic enamel paint job without clear coat.
>> This way, any nicks can be fixed, and any imperfections can be sanded
>> and buffed out. It may require more maintenance, but the long-term
>> benefits are worth it.
>
>I'll agree with this. I just painted my 944 with DuPont Centari acrylic
>enamel (which is a single coat paint) and I'm very happy with the
>results after rubbing out the paint. The centari was easy to work with
>(I painted the car in my driveway) and easy to fix mistakes. I used the
>catalyst with the paint so it's quite durable.
>
>Finally, I think Centari is quite a bit cheaper than Imron (I paid $70
>for a gallon of paint, $18 for reducer and $38 for the hardener - the
>only other thing I needed was some Flexar for my spoiler - about $30).
>
>trev.
>
>===============================
>Trevor Sadler
>Mastering Engineer, Narada Media
>
>Email: trev...@mixcom.com
>
>Web: http://www.mixweb.com/llyyll/sadler.html
>Mastering Info: http://www.mixweb.com/llyyll/masterhome.html
Dick Hughes
On 19 Oct 1996 06:02:43 GMT, "Mark Sullivan" <sull...@blarg.net>
wrote:
>I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
>parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint. I understand that it is
>"very" durable and looks very nice. Is Imron as good as they say? I know
>that it can be clear coated or not, but is it of any benefit to do so with
>this stuff? I've heard that if I clear coat it, scratches turn white?
>There are also several types, 4000, 5000, 6000. Which is best? what is
>the difference?
>
>Mark
One comment on the quality. Imron is used by all of the high-end RV
bus converters ($600K and up.) If there was anything better to put on
a million dollar bus they would use it. They are all clear-coated as
far as I know. I have seen them in the before and after state, and
there is no comparison with the gloss from the clear-coat.
Dick Hughes
LeeMan
> On Tue, 22 Oct 1996, Matt Quinones wrote:
<SNIP>
> did you have a problem with the fumes? i heard that newer paints
> caused problems with breathing, especially the flexor additive.
> matt
Many paints such as acrylic enamels (or paints that use hardeners) have
isocyanates (cancer causing! very dangereous to health). It's very
important to use a fresh air respirator and to work in a well ventilated
area. Dust masks, or even carbon filter masks can't filter out the ic's
(they do help alittle though). But hell, if yer only gonna paint once in
yer life, how much harm can it do? :-P~~
leeman
Scott D. Lowrey
Dick Hughes wrote:
>
> On 19 Oct 1996 06:02:43 GMT, "Mark Sullivan" <sull...@blarg.net>
> wrote:
>
> >I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
> >parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint.
>
> bus converters ($600K and up.)
same with boats. recommended as the highest quality finish for hulls
from what i've read. spendy.
--
Scott Lowrey
Laurel Schuster
(see bottom of this thing).... How much harm can it do? Well you can
only croak once, how much harm could that do? Your supplier should be
able to advise you of the hazards of Imron paint and associated
products. From what I've heard, full length non-porous protective gear
including a full face mask with supplied air respirator (NO FILTERS) and
proper exhaust control in an approved paint booth. Your neighbors, if
any, who do not choose to be exposed, deserve protection too. So keep
it clean and you can do it again.
J.Lewis
Imron paint is very durable and is pretty resistant to chips etc.,
However if you do the paint yourself be very careful of the fumes...they
are Deadly. Imron fumes can cause not only cancer but a more immediate
effect is acute pulmonary edema and chemical pneumonia. Make sure that
you invest in quality protective gear and use it well...
Kelly Murray
Definitely do not paint Imron at home!
Leave it to a pro with the right respitory equipment.
The cost of the materials is high enough,
that the extra cost to pay someone to paint it for you
is not significant anyway.
A home-garage choice would be acrylic enamel.
My $0.02.. -kelly murray
bobs...@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
g-w...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
: I have experience as a car owner with Imron w/o clear coat, and acrylic
: enamel with clear coat. The winner by far is plain Imron. My
: dissatisfaction with the clear coat job may be due to the painter's lack
: of prep. My car with the clear coat has slight sanding scratches that
: show up in the color coat. Since the clear coat now covers the color
: coat, the scratches are permanent. There is no way to color sand a
: clear coat.
Gosh! Now I find out that I've been doing it all wrong for the past
fifteen years. And I even put an extra coat of clear on a 96 F250 last
night because I had to do a little polishing this morning! What am I
gonna do now that we've all read the "expert" advice?
--
bobs...@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
http://www.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca/~bobstory
=========================================
Automotive Paint FAQ and related subjects.
Doug Barnes
easily and is toxic. One hint that was interesting is to cut the paint
for painting car frames. The durability is good for painting frames but
is too shiny in its standard mixture. No one seems to be talking about
any of the Urethanes as a possibility.
Robert J. Cowan
> trevor
> did you have a problem with the fumes? i heard that newer paints
> caused problems with breathing, especially the flexor additive.
> matt
*ALWAYS* follow the respirater recommendations on the label when using
these kinds of paint. A few years ago I was working in an intensive care
unit. I watched a young man die because he painted his bicycle frame
with imron paint - in the basement.
His liver died, then he died.
Kevin Figgatt
bi...@cts.com wrote:
: "Mark Sullivan" <sull...@blarg.net> wrote:
: >I am interested in painted my 4x4. It has been suggested by numerous
: >parties that I consider using Dupont Imron paint. I understand that it is
: >"very" durable and looks very nice. Is Imron as good as they say? I know
I have used Sikkens paint, and I have to believe that it is the toughest
paint around. It also gives a KILLER shine. However, there is one
drawback. It is expensive. Sikkens paint will stick to absolutely
anything, and remain there. Some of my greasy sockets were exposed when I
was painting, and the paint is still on them after six months of use!
Apparently, when sikkens paint (base/clear system) is mixed with hardner,
it forms compounds very similiar to super glue! Cool.
Kevin
kig...@olie.wvitcoe.wvnet.edu
BTW, I'm not a sikkens dealer....
David Burton
I did my frame with black IMRON. It is very glossy
and very tough. The black goes on real nice. Some
colors are tough to get good coverage on, you may need
to use a primer with the right color to make the topcoat
coverage easier (Red or grey corlar, or green variprime)
This is because the colors are not completely opake (sp).
I didn't think about adding a deglosser to the paint.
(quart powder) but I guess I don't care.
DB
jd...@interaccess.com
No joke... Sikkens Autobase/ Autoclear and Autocryl/autoclear are some
of the finest paint.... can be difficult to apply.... but in the hands
of someone expeinced it's really good... but really really expensive...
you get what you pay for....
still dam dangerous (sp??) all paint is bad for you... pay the man to
put
it on the truck/car/bike ect... they have the right protective
equipment... plus if they mess it up--you don't pay anymore than...
there are lots of advantages to paying the right people...
take the advice... don't do this at home... that is why they put on
labels "for professional use only"...
have a nice day....
yan...@netonecom.net
Hi,
I have a '84 2.8L Blazer. I just got done fixing the starter and now
somethings up with the flywheel. It appears that the bolts have came out or
something similar to that. Anyways the flywheel spins freely and so it must be
fixed. It is an automatic and my brother who also has the same model suggested
getting to it by taking the engine out. This is a lot of work, 11 1/2 hours of
non-stop wrenching, and that is if you have done it before. What would you do:
take the engine out or try getting to it by way of the transmission. Keep in
mind I have unlimited access to a machine shop with anything needed to tear
this machine apart.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
yankee
P.S
No I don't want to get rid of the Blazer or pay someone to do it. I may be
crazy, if that is what you call it, but crazy isn't always dumb.
b4u...@ix.netcom.com
I say go to it from the trans. That would be ALOT less work.
Charlie Bendig
Yes Pull the transmission!
If I remember correctly the 2.8 Flexplate, or fly whell as commenly
called has five bolts. if the bolts have backed out, check the crank for
dammaged threads, run a tap throu them, then reinstall the bolts with
locktite Blue(removable formula). If I remember the bolts should be
torqued to 40-FT.LBS, but I would check a book on that. The bolt might
have snapped, or worse the crank could have broken. If it has sheared
the bolts, use Mr.Gasket bolts, or other replacement bolts made for a
fly wheel. The fly wheel might have broken around the crank hub, but I
dont think that is likly, but I have heard of it.
Charlie
char...@cris.com
yan...@netonecom.net wrote:
>Hi, I have a '84 2.8L Blazer.I just got done fixing the starter and now
>somethings up with the flywheel.It appears that the bolts have came out >or something similar to that. Anyways the flywheel spins freely and so >it must be fixed.It is an automatic and my brother who also has the >same model suggested getting to it by taking the engine out. This is a >lot of work, 11 1/2 hours of non-stop wrenching, and that is if you >have done it before.What would you do:take the engine out or try >getting to it by way of the transmission. Keep in mind I have >unlimited access to a machine shop with anything needed to tear
>this machine apart.
>Any help is greatly appreciated,yankee
>P.S
SinSpinr
> take the engine out or try getting to it by way of the transmission. Keep in
> mind I have unlimited access to a machine shop with anything needed to tear
> this machine apart.
I had a simalar problem when I spun a rod berring and needed to rebuild
the motor. 11 1/2 hrs is a bit high, I did it in about 3 with a hoist in
the front yard. The best way I found was to take the body completly lose
and unbolt the tranny from the motor. That is not how I got it out but
it goes back in alot easyer if you do it that way.
Note: I pulled it out motor, tranny, and transfer case at one time and I
don't recomend it...
Trevor Sadler
Matt Quinones wrote:
> trevor
> did you have a problem with the fumes? i heard that newer paints
> caused problems with breathing, especially the flexor additive.
> matt
Well, the Centari didn't seem to be that bad, but I did wear a
respirator. I painted my car out doors on a Sunday morning, so the fumes
were actually worse while mixing (in my workshop) than while painting.
I have heard that some places require the use of a respirator while
mixing paint -this would seem logical as the exposure is probably near
what it is while painting. Of course, I'm not an expert at this so take
my opinion with a grain of salt.
The Centari was super easy to work with - I got near perfect results on
my first paint job! I think next time I'll try the Centari with the 2000
Performance Pack - makes the paint glossier ...
Doug Barnes
LeeMan wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 22 Oct 1996, Matt Quinones wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > caused problems with breathing, especially the flexor additive.
> > matt
>
> isocyanates (cancer causing! very dangereous to health). It's very
> important to use a fresh air respirator and to work in a well ventilated
> area. Dust masks, or even carbon filter masks can't filter out the ic's
> (they do help alittle though). But hell, if yer only gonna paint once in
> yer life, how much harm can it do? :-P~~
>
> leeman
This is an intersting topic. I am about to paint by old Vette with
acrylic Urathane and the can say use a positive pressure respirator. Of
couse that virtually unavailable locally for less that $1500. I've
talked to several body supply houses, body shops, etc. They say the
charcoal ones work but to change them often. I don't know which to
believe. Maybe the occasional paint job is OK if you don't have
resperatory problems but who wants to dies finding out. I have read of
several people having VERY bad (or FATAL) reactions to this stuff but
people die from reactions to peanut butter.
Any body shop people out there??? What do you say???
jd...@interaccess.com
Doug Barnes wrote:
<SINP>
> This is an intersting topic. I am about to paint by old Vette with
> acrylic Urathane and the can say use a positive pressure respirator. Of
> couse that virtually unavailable locally for less that $1500. I've
> talked to several body supply houses, body shops, etc. They say the
> charcoal ones work but to change them often. I don't know which to
> believe. Maybe the occasional paint job is OK if you don't have
> resperatory problems but who wants to dies finding out. I have read of
> several people having VERY bad (or FATAL) reactions to this stuff but
> people die from reactions to peanut butter.
>
> Any body shop people out there??? What do you say???
Well I'm not a body shop dude... but I work at a paint manufactuer's lab
(auto-refinish)... I paint with isocyanates every day.. I use a charcoal
negitive pressure resperator (air supplied are Positive air pressure) I
toss out the filters after 2 weeks of use (3-4hrs/day)... the big
differance is that we have massive amounts of air flow throught the area
we paint in. It painting outside is not as good as us painting indoors
like this... the stuff is only safe if you handel it correctly... don't
snort the stuff..don't eat it... don't get it on your hands..
the thing is paint for re-painting cars and such is meant for
professional use only... people who have put money into safe handeling
of the paint and are experinced in painting so they know what to use and
how to use it... granted its not rocket science.. but you should know
what your using... and how to use it correctly.. not only do you get a
better job... but also nobody gets hurt....
Matt Davis
yan...@netonecom.net wrote:
>Hi,
>I have a '84 2.8L Blazer. I just got done fixing the starter and now
>somethings up with the flywheel. It appears that the bolts have came out or
>something similar to that. Anyways the flywheel spins freely and so it must be
>fixed. It is an automatic and my brother who also has the same model suggested
>getting to it by taking the engine out. This is a lot of work, 11 1/2 hours of
>non-stop wrenching, and that is if you have done it before. What would you do:
>take the engine out or try getting to it by way of the transmission. Keep in
>mind I have unlimited access to a machine shop with anything needed to tear
>this machine apart.
>Any help is greatly appreciated,
>yankee
>P.S
>No I don't want to get rid of the Blazer or pay someone to do it. I may be
>crazy, if that is what you call it, but crazy isn't always dumb.
Take the transmission out...quicker and easier, and there's an
off chance possibility that you broke the crankshaft.
Matt Davis
Christopher James Bruno
In article <55bsma$o...@nadine.teleport.com>,
When I replaced my 2.8L engine with a 350, I had to go through the
hassle of removing everything - engine, tranny, etc. I had the
experience of taken the tranny out because the tranny went a year before.
Anyways, taking that motor out WITHOUT taking out the tranny is
a lot more work than you can imagine (trust me - I tried it
with the 350). Take the tranny out - this alone if you haven't done
it before will probably take you at least 9 hours. If you
have had some experience with removing transmissions you'll
be better off than that, though. All I know is that I've done it four
times now and it still takes me around 5 hours since I don't have
a lift or tranny jack. In any case, once the tranny is out you'll
have ample room to inspect your flywheel.
Chris
*******************************************************************
Christopher Bruno Ext. 5424
ME Grad Student cbr...@wpi.wpi.edu
Worcester Polytechnic Institute http://www.wpi.edu/~cbruno
*******************************************************************
cf...@lehigh.edu
In article <3278CC...@rell.com>, Doug Barnes <d...@rell.com> writes:
>
>This is an intersting topic. I am about to paint by old Vette with
>acrylic Urathane and the can say use a positive pressure respirator. Of
>couse that virtually unavailable locally for less that $1500. I've
>talked to several body supply houses, body shops, etc. They say the
>charcoal ones work but to change them often. I don't know which to
>believe. Maybe the occasional paint job is OK if you don't have
>resperatory problems but who wants to dies finding out. I have read of
>several people having VERY bad (or FATAL) reactions to this stuff but
>people die from reactions to peanut butter.
>
>Any body shop people out there??? What do you say???
>
basecoat/clearcoat paint this summer and I lived to tell about it. I only used
a charcoal respirator too. I wouldn;t recommend painting in this manner in an
enclosed shop though, since the fumes could get overwhelming. I painted min in
an old barn with lots of air circulation. I have painted using acrylic enamel
in this fashion with no problems too.
Chuck
Al Kozakiewicz
In this discussion of resirator equipment, here's something people
might find important: you should be fitted for a mask in order for it to
be effective. There is a great deal of variation in the shape of human
heads and not all masks fit each variation the same. The problem is
especially eggagerated if you have a beard or moustache.
The way the fitting process works in an industrial environment is like
this: They will have an assortment of masks of different styles and from
different manufacturers on hand. The masks will be modified with a
sampling tube and hose so that air can be drawn from inside the mask as
you are wearing it. You don a mask and will be placed in an airtight
chamber which gets filled with a corn oil mist. The sampled air from your
mask will be checked to see if any of the corn oil is getting into where
you breathe. I had to try several masks in order to find one that didn't
leak.
Sidebar: I'm a software engineer by training. I specialize in
manufacturing applications, especially the process industries. I spent
several years at a GE Plastics site, which is where I had to have the mask
issued in order to visit certain parts of the plant. I had a woman
working for me at the time who had to go through the same procedure.
Unfortunately, the only mask which fit her face properly was a full face
job which resembled something you would have found in a WWI trench! She
always seemed to find an excuse not to visit the part of the plant that
required the mask, at least until they changed the process so that the
respiratory equipment need only be carried but not worn.
Regards,
Al
ron
>>yan...@netonecom.net wrote:
>>
>>>Hi,
>>
>>>I have a '84 2.8L Blazer. I just got done fixing the starter and now
>>>somethings up with the flywheel. It appears that the bolts have came out or
>>>something similar to that. Anyways the flywheel spins freely and so it must
> be
>>>fixed.
Are you saying that with the starter out you can easily turn the flywheel? Or
do you mean that the starter runs and the motor doesn't turn over? If the
former then you do have a nasty problem. If the latter then it may only be an
alignment problem with the starter or a bad starter. Understand GM cars are bad
about that and need shims to make it work.
Ron
William Fuller
Christopher James Bruno wrote:
>
> In article <55bsma$o...@nadine.teleport.com>,
> Matt Davis <what...@teleport.com> wrote:
> >
> >>Hi,
> >
> >>I have a '84 2.8L Blazer. I just got done fixing the starter and now
> >>somethings up with the flywheel. It appears that the bolts have came out or
> >>something similar to that. Anyways the flywheel spins freely and so it must be
Nerve Gas
One of the best ways to find out would be to get a Chilton's or a
Haynes' manual, and it will tell you which way is possible.
steve
Christpoher M. Ripp
Nerve Gas <Nerv...@inconnect.com> wrote in article
<328225...@inconnect.com>...
Hmm. The flex-plate's connected to the...crankshaft, the torque converter's
connected
to the...flex-plate.
I dunno how tight it gets up under those blazers...but I would almost think
dropping the
tranny down and out a bit would be easier than pulling the engine. Unhook
the TQ from the
flexplate, pull the Driveshaft, unhook the mount & whatever else, and let
it down on a jack
until you can get to your flexplate.
Could it be done that way?
--
= Christopher M. Ripp ================ http://www.matrixbel.com/~ripp =
ri...@matrixbel.com
ri...@tulsa.dowell.slb.com
= Matrixbel Ltd./Bonne.Net === Standard Disclaimer(tm) Applies == 1:1 =
Any and all unsolicited e-mail advertising sent to either of the above
addresses will be forwarded to postm...@your.domain.
Transman
> Hmm. The flex-plate's connected to the...crankshaft, the torque converter's
> connected
> to the...flex-plate.
>
> I dunno how tight it gets up under those blazers...but I would almost think
> dropping the
> tranny down and out a bit would be easier than pulling the engine. Unhook
> the TQ from the
> flexplate, pull the Driveshaft, unhook the mount & whatever else, and let
> it down on a jack
> until you can get to your flexplate.
> Could it be done that way?
>
> --
> = Christopher M. Ripp ================ http://www.matrixbel.com/~ripp =
>
> ri...@matrixbel.com
> ri...@tulsa.dowell.slb.com
>
> = Matrixbel Ltd./Bonne.Net === Standard Disclaimer(tm) Applies == 1:1 =
>
> Any and all unsolicited e-mail advertising sent to either of the above
> addresses will be forwarded to postm...@your.domain.
Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
clarify something here.
A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the
starter) A FLYWHEEL does have a ring gear. Usually any vehicle that
has a flex plate will have a torque converter that has a ring gear as
in Early model Fords and non front wheel drive Chrysler product, and
Mitsubishis.
Sorry but this is just a pet peeve of mine, if your gonna order
parts at least know what you need.
Black Panther
(TransMan's Wife :)
Dacco/Detroit of TX Transmission Products
--
Ken
Tran...@onramp.net
Trans was here ! :)
thrnw...@aol.com
Back out the Trans. It's a lot easier to line-up the trans to motor during
reinstallment, then vise-versa. Besides, takeing out the motor [if EFI]
may result in the need to re-program the computer.
Cloudmaster
> Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
> clarify something here.
>
> A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the
> starter) A FLYWHEEL does have a ring gear. Usually any vehicle that
> has a flex plate will have a torque converter that has a ring gear as
> in Early model Fords and non front wheel drive Chrysler product, and
> Mitsubishis.
> Sorry but this is just a pet peeve of mine, if your gonna order
> parts at least know what you need.
automatic ( bolts to torque converter) and a flywheel went with a manual
(part of the clutch) I've been wrong? Someone should tell Summit, Jegs,
and ASAP that they need to stop labeling these parts wrong. Someone else
ought to tell all the car magazines I read what they've been getting
wrong too.
Not that I doubt you, misused words are accepted as correct all the
time :) <rhetorical?> Is a digital modem really a MOdulater/DEMoudulator
if it neither modulates or demodulates? </rhetorical?> etc....
Preacher
Cloudmaster wrote:
> So, all this time I've thought a flexplate was what went with an
> automatic ( bolts to torque converter) and a flywheel went with a manual
> (part of the clutch) I've been wrong? Someone should tell Summit, Jegs,
> and ASAP that they need to stop labeling these parts wrong. Someone else
> ought to tell all the car magazines I read what they've been getting
> wrong too.
>
> Not that I doubt you, misused words are accepted as correct all the
> time :) <rhetorical?> Is a digital modem really a MOdulater/DEMoudulator
> if it neither modulates or demodulates? </rhetorical?> etc....
No, you are right. A flexplate is for an auto trans, and a flywheel is for
a manual trans. The "ring gear" is what everyone is in disagreement about.
Some flexplates have a ring gear, although not replaceable like a flywheel's
ring gear. Some flexplates are nothing more then a connector from the crank
to the torque convertor, with the ring gear on the torque convertor.
But all flywheels have a ring gear on them. I'm sure there are probably
exceptions to the rule, so "all" may be too strong of a word.
Who said that flexplates weren't used on A/T's, or flywheels weren't used
on M/T's?? I must have missed that post.
Anyway, I realize you were being sarcastic, I just had to throw my .02 cents
into the ring. (I hope it was sarcasim!!)
Preacher
Cloudmaster
> No, you are right. A flexplate is for an auto trans, and a flywheel is for
> a manual trans. The "ring gear" is what everyone is in disagreement about.
>
> Some flexplates have a ring gear, although not replaceable like a flywheel's
> ring gear. Some flexplates are nothing more then a connector from the crank
> to the torque convertor, with the ring gear on the torque convertor.
>
> But all flywheels have a ring gear on them. I'm sure there are probably
> exceptions to the rule, so "all" may be too strong of a word.
>
> Who said that flexplates weren't used on A/T's, or flywheels weren't used
> on M/T's?? I must have missed that post.
The post b transman implied (but didn't explicitly say) that only a few autos
[trannys] used flexplates, and the rest (and all manuals) used flywheels.
> Anyway, I realize you were being sarcastic, I just had to throw my .02 cents
> into the ring. (I hope it was sarcasim!!)
Mostly sarcasm, but I _did_ want to know if I was wrong <gasp!>.
> Preacher
Don Kuhlman
Cloudmaster wrote:
>
> > Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
> > clarify something here.
> >
> > A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the
> > starter) A FLYWHEEL does have a ring gear. Usually any vehicle that
> > has a flex plate will have a torque converter that has a ring gear as
> > in Early model Fords and non front wheel drive Chrysler product, and
> > Mitsubishis.
> > Sorry but this is just a pet peeve of mine, if your gonna order
> > parts at least know what you need.
>
> automatic ( bolts to torque converter) and a flywheel went with a manual
> (part of the clutch) I've been wrong? Someone should tell Summit, Jegs,
> and ASAP that they need to stop labeling these parts wrong. Someone else
> ought to tell all the car magazines I read what they've been getting
> wrong too.
>
> Not that I doubt you, misused words are accepted as correct all the
> time :) <rhetorical?> Is a digital modem really a MOdulater/DEMoudulator
> if it neither modulates or demodulates? </rhetorical?> etc....
Here, here! I couldn't agree more! Being an olde type myself, we always
used the definition of a flexplate as that thin piece of metal that connected
the torque converter to the crankshaft. This was whether it had the starter
ring gear or not. Now I find people have changed the definition to serve
whatever needs they may have?
And after 25 years in the telecommunications business I can still safely
say I STILL don't know what a digital modem is, or 19.2K BAUD dial-up
modems for that matter!
Of course I've never used a term out of context. Well, once maybe.
Don "Opinionated Idiot" Kuhlman
Hampton Virginia
flywheel (flì´hwêl´, -wêl´) noun
1. A heavy-rimmed rotating wheel used to minimize variations in angular
velocity and revolutions per minute, as in a machine subject to fluctuation
in drive and load.
2. An analogous device, especially one used to regulate the speed of clockwork.
The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Third Edition
copyright © 1992 by Houghton Mifflin Company.
Christopher James Bruno
In article <VA.0000019...@dialup.cso.uiuc.edu>,
Cloudmaster <sa...@students.uiuc.edu> wrote:
>> Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
>> clarify something here.
>>
>> A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the
>> starter) A FLYWHEEL does have a ring gear. Usually any vehicle that
>> has a flex plate will have a torque converter that has a ring gear as
>> in Early model Fords and non front wheel drive Chrysler product, and
>> Mitsubishis.
>> Sorry but this is just a pet peeve of mine, if your gonna order
>> parts at least know what you need.
>
experience with this EXACT transmission - the 700r4), that the FLEXPLATE
has the teeth on it. THere is no ring gear because it is all one piece.
They call it a flexplate because it is not weighted - i.e. it only
weighs about 5 pounds compared to a flywheel which generally weighs
~60lb due to the manual tranny and revs, etc. etc. Anyways for this
particular transmission, the flexplate has the teeth and the converter
bolts onto the flexplate with 3 bolts.
*******************************************************************
Christopher Bruno Ext. 5424
ME Grad Student cbr...@wpi.wpi.edu
Worcester Polytechnic Institute http://www.wpi.edu/~cbruno
'84 S-10 Blazer w/ 350 '89 CBR 600 '76 DT 175
*******************************************************************
--
Tom I Helbekkmo
[Cloudmaster]
> Not that I doubt you, misused words are accepted as correct all the
> time :)
[Don Kuhlman]
> Here, here! I couldn't agree more!
Well, Don set himself up for this -- he even quoted a dictionary in
the same posting -- so here goes:
The expression "Here, here!" is seen quite a lot on USENET these days,
but it's plain wrong. This enthusiastic outburst of approval is, and
always has been written "Hear! Hear!". ;-)
-tih
--
Popularity is the hallmark of mediocrity. --Niles Crane, "Frasier"
Joel Anderson
Hmmm....well every GM automatic tranny I've ever seen has a flexplate with
a ring gear and the torque converter bolts to it! Maybe I imagined it
all?
--
Joel Anderson
68 GMC 454 Quickup
Big Blocks Rule!
--
Transman <tran...@onramp.net> wrote in article
<328AC7...@onramp.net>...
David Henley
Joel Anderson wrote:
>
> Hmmm....well every GM automatic tranny I've ever seen has a flexplate with
> a ring gear and the torque converter bolts to it! Maybe I imagined it
> all?
> --
> Joel Anderson
> 68 GMC 454 Quickup
> Big Blocks Rule!
> --
>
> Transman <tran...@onramp.net> wrote in article
> <328AC7...@onramp.net>...
> >
> > Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
> > clarify something here.
> >
> > A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the
> > starter) A FLYWHEEL does have a ring gear. Usually any vehicle
On that flywheel, how likely is a dragging starter gonna damage it?
Mine has been so I stopped driving it until I could fix it. I know that
the Ford Motorcraft starter on a Jeep is intentionally made to die
first, but I thought I'd ask someone with more experience.
coby hughey
Um...early fords? How early? All the C4's and C6's I've ever seen had the
ring gear on the flexplate. And if you're a trans parts salesman....aw, never
mind.
coby hughey
In article <57a356$g...@news.inforamp.net>, joe...@inforamp.net spouts...
>
>Hmmm....well every GM automatic tranny I've ever seen has a flexplate with
>a ring gear and the torque converter bolts to it! Maybe I imagined it
>all?
>--
>Joel Anderson
>68 GMC 454 Quickup
>Big Blocks Rule!
>--
>
>Transman <tran...@onramp.net> wrote in article
><328AC7...@onramp.net>...
>>
>> Sorry guys but as a Transmission parts sales person i would like to
>> clarify something here.
>>
>> A FLEXPLATE does NOT have a ring gear ( teeth that mesh with the