"John Klane" <johnk_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:133a3ac5.01080...@posting.google.com...
"Joseph Vogt" <jv...@mediaone.net> wrote in message news:<XSkb7.23692$bm5.8...@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net>...
>Thanks for the input. I'm am curious in what ways, other than start-up
>time and torque, that an SP-10 Mk II is better. Do you have any
>experience with the Sony tonearm? It appears to be pretty decent:
>four-point gimbal bearings, long stylus-to-pivot distance, height
>adustable, etc. BTW, what would you reckon to be a decent price?
If it's the PUA-237 (or 239), it was Sony's response to SME and still
a dandy arm.
Kal
Kalman Rubinson <k...@nyu.edu> wrote in message news:<l2ctmt4qf7mrvg1o9...@4ax.com>...
>The 2251 is so impressively designed and built that I would assume
>they would put their best tonearm on the unit. Would that be a
>PUA-237/9? As I said earlier, the arm appears to be very nicely made
>and well thought out. Curiously, the original Sony headshell, while
>very well made (e.g.-cast, not stamped)offers only a fixed cartridge
>mounting position (i.e.-it has only two screwholes, not slots) and the
>arm is not adjustable at the pivot end, as is an SME. I wonder what
>they had in mind here? A partcular Sony cartridge, perhaps? I plan to
>buy a 'slotted' headshell if i acquire the table, unless someone has
>another suggestion.
I will take a look at the instructions for the arm when I get home. I
am sure it is dealt with.
Kal (who prefers 2 fixed screwholes to the slots, anyway)
>The 2251 is so impressively designed and built that I would assume
>they would put their best tonearm on the unit. Would that be a
>PUA-237/9? As I said earlier, the arm appears to be very nicely made
>and well thought out. Curiously, the original Sony headshell, while
>very well made (e.g.-cast, not stamped)offers only a fixed cartridge
>mounting position (i.e.-it has only two screwholes, not slots) and the
>arm is not adjustable at the pivot end, as is an SME. I wonder what
>they had in mind here? A partcular Sony cartridge, perhaps? I plan to
>buy a 'slotted' headshell if i acquire the table, unless someone has
>another suggestion. Thanks for your help.
Here's the poop.
1. The original Sony headshell is not cast. I switched to a Sumiko.
2. The overhang is adjustable by loosening a central screw on the
underside of the shell. This permits you to slide the shell with
respect to the coupling. Full instructions in manual.
Kal
Kalman Rubinson <k...@nyu.edu> wrote in message news:<075umtglilnu9ldh2...@4ax.com>...
>Hi Kal, thanks for your help.
>Well, the Sony shell on this table appears to be cast, it is certainly
>not stamped.
I'd like to see it as all the ones I've seen so far have been pressed
with a cast coupling.
>I found the screw you refer to a couple of hours ago,
>when I got the table home (I decided to buy it based on comments here
>and elsewhere). It was really tight, but I eventually got it loosened
>w/o damage, so cartridge alignment is now possible.
Yes. Do you need the exact instructions? I bought a copy of the
manual from Sony a while back (at a ridiculous price) and it seems
difficult to set up without it.
>What do you see as
>the advantage of the Sumiko shell?
Absolute rigidity. Since I use an SME-type sliding base (my own
construction) with it, I do not need the adjustment in the headshell.
> Also, I have been told that the
>PUA-237/9 uses a string+weight anti-skate scheme. This one uses a
>spring and dial. Might this be a PUA-286?
I was mistaken about the longer model (which I would like to lay myt
hands on) but the longer one is PUA-286 and the shorter is PUA-237.
Both use a spring and dial.
>BTW, I take it you have a manual for a PUA-237/9?
I have the manual for the PUA-237/286.
Kal
"John Klane" <johnk_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:133a3ac5.01080...@posting.google.com...
> >I found the screw you refer to a couple of hours ago,
> >when I got the table home (I decided to buy it based on comments here
> >and elsewhere). It was really tight, but I eventually got it loosened
> >w/o damage, so cartridge alignment is now possible.
>
> Yes. Do you need the exact instructions? I bought a copy of the
> manual from Sony a while back (at a ridiculous price) and it seems
> difficult to set up without it.
>
Exact instructions would be a benefit. Perhaps we can work something
out via private email?
> >What do you see as
> >the advantage of the Sumiko shell?
>
> Absolute rigidity. Since I use an SME-type sliding base (my own
> construction) with it, I do not need the adjustment in the headshell.
>
This raises an interesting point. AFAIK, one designs a tonearm's
geometry with a specific stylus-to-pivot distance in mind. Making the
adjustment to compensate for different cartridge dimensions (stylus
tip to mounting holes) via slots in the headshell, or an 'adjustable'
headshell (as in this case), or via an adjustable length arm (AR
XA)allows the stylus-to-pivot distance to be maintained. However, it
seems to me that making the adjustment by moving the pivot point of
the arm relative to the platter spindle does not achieve the same end.
Am I missing something here?
> > Also, I have been told that the
> >PUA-237/9 uses a string+weight anti-skate scheme. This one uses a
> >spring and dial. Might this be a PUA-286?
>
> I was mistaken about the longer model (which I would like to lay myt
> hands on) but the longer one is PUA-286 and the shorter is PUA-237.
> Both use a spring and dial.
>
So I am guessing, based on the ~9.5" stylus to pivot dimension that
this is a PUA-237(?)and that a PUA-286 is Sony's answer to a SME
3012(?).
>Exact instructions would be a benefit. Perhaps we can work something
>out via private email?
OK.
>This raises an interesting point. AFAIK, one designs a tonearm's
>geometry with a specific stylus-to-pivot distance in mind. Making the
>adjustment to compensate for different cartridge dimensions (stylus
>tip to mounting holes) via slots in the headshell, or an 'adjustable'
>headshell (as in this case), or via an adjustable length arm (AR
>XA)allows the stylus-to-pivot distance to be maintained. However, it
>seems to me that making the adjustment by moving the pivot point of
>the arm relative to the platter spindle does not achieve the same end.
>Am I missing something here?
The exact opposite. Changing the position in the headshell or
changing the arm length will, de facto, change the stylus-to-pivot
dimension, something not affected by moving the pivot.
>So I am guessing, based on the ~9.5" stylus to pivot dimension that
>this is a PUA-237(?)and that a PUA-286 is Sony's answer to a SME
>3012(?).
Yup.
Kal
>Hmm...let's say that the designer of a tonearm used a specific
>cartridge when working out the stylus-to-pivot distance amd geometry
>of the arm. When someone uses a different cartridge with a different
>dimension of the mounting screws to stylus tip, the stylus-to-pivot
>distance will be different and no amount of moving the tonearm's pivot
>point fore or aft _ relative to the platter spindle_ will change that
>dimension. OTOH, moving the cartridge fore or aft _relative to the
>pivot point_ will allow the original stylus-to-pivot distance to be
>'restored'.
Also true. However, that presumes that the drilling and mounting of
the arm (and positioning of the pivot) is perfectly accurate. In
practice, all the fixings are interactive. If the arm/shell defines
exactly where the stylus tip should be placed, then the pivot must be
moved to get the correct overhang. OTOH, if the pivot is placed
perfectly accurately, you can adjust overhang with positioning in the
headshell.
>Or so it seems to me-any comments from others?
My feeling is that I am more confident in placing the pivot where it
belongs with a sliding base than with a power drill. Non-standard
stylus-to-mounting cartridges demand more in the setup.
Kal