AR4x question
Stewart
cloth. Do I have to pry it out with screwdriver or trowel? I tried
that without a lot of force because I didn't want to damage the wood.
Any tips?
Stewart
Buck Frobisher
1. Like AR did at the factory: rip the grill off and put on a new one when
the repair is done.
2. With lots of patience and care, go around the edge and pry gently.
Something metal and wide. I used an old dull chisel that I keep for this
type of thing.
Anyway, that's how I did it to mine. To put them back on, I stuck some
Velcro on the back of the grill and the face of the cabinet, and that was
that.
Oh, if you still have them, keep an eye on the AR badges. This is when they
tend to get lost.
"Stewart" <ge...@ncweb.com> wrote in message
news:63b4b8c0.02090...@posting.google.com...
Stewart Schooley
I got it! I had no idea the grill frame was so thin and I was going in so deep
with the trowel that I was actually catching the edge of the speaker faceplate.
Now the real work begins. I'll have to dig in there and see what I can do about
the tweeter.
Thanks,
Stewart
Buck Frobisher
I forget the fix, I just wiggle mine when the tweeter goes out.
--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."
regards,
Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
"John Rethorst" <no...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:noone-09090...@1cust184.tnt1.port-angeles.wa.da.uu.net...
> In article <3D7D1B3E...@ncweb.com>, Stewart Schooley
> <ge...@ncweb.com> wrote:
>
> > I got it! I had no idea the grill frame was so thin and I was going in
so deep
> > with the trowel that I was actually catching the edge of the speaker
> faceplate.
> > Now the real work begins. I'll have to dig in there and see what I can
> do about
> > the tweeter.
>
> If it's anything like the AR3a, the problem is most likely with the
> tweeter's volume control rather than the tweeter. Some just clean the pot;
> I think that after all the trouble you took to get at it, it's worth
> replacing it.
>
> --
> John Rethorst
Mista T
I recently refurbished some AR4x speakers as well. I don't know the
condition of yours but in my case, neither of the tweeters worked
because the L-Pad tweeter level controls were no longer functioning.
This is typical in speakers of this era. The wipers and windings in
the L-Pads get so oxidized over time that they no can no longer make a
good electrical contact. Sometimes it is possible to clean them with a
good contact cleaner (like De-Oxit), but mine couldn't be restored so
I bypassed them. All of the drivers were still in good condition (love
those cloth surrounds).
They sound just great now and I can control the high frequencies with
the EQ on my amp (a Fisher KX-200).
I restored the finish on the walnut veneer by sanding them with some
extra fine (#0000) steel wool and treating with Feed-n-Wax (Formby's
makes this I think). After wiping off all of the the "dirty"
Feed-n-Wax, I generously re-applied Feed-n-Wax to the surfaces and let
it soak in for a while before wiping it off with a towel. That really
brought back the beauty of the Walnut. I've been using them for about
six months now and they still look and sound like they should
(classic).
As soon as I find some similar linen grill cloth and get the AR
badges, the restoration will be complete.
Regards,
Tim
Stewart Schooley <ge...@ncweb.com> wrote in message news:<3D7D1B3E...@ncweb.com>...
Chuck
painted off-white to match the grill cloth and driven through the cloth.
Once you find them, they can be pulled with pliers. I, too, have had
problems with the tweeter level controls. The problem with mine appears to
be poor silver plating on the slip ring that makes contact with the control
slider. I haven't found a good solution other than replacement. (Maybe
thats why KLH used toggle switches rather than rheostats for tweeter
controls in their competing models.
--Chuck
"Stewart" <ge...@ncweb.com> wrote in message
news:63b4b8c0.02090...@posting.google.com...
Conrad Field
>
> Buck,
>
> I got it! I had no idea the grill frame was so thin and I was going in so deep
> with the trowel that I was actually catching the edge of the speaker faceplate.
> Now the real work begins. I'll have to dig in there and see what I can do about
> the tweeter.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stewart
>
While you are in there, check for porous woofer surrounds. The earlier
AR's woofers sealant may have dried up and is allowing air to pass thru
the surround cloth. This would be a good time to reseal the surrounds
with a flexable sealent to tighten up that deep bass.
--
Conrad Field
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Gerard Kam
>
> While you are in there, check for porous woofer surrounds. The earlier
> AR's woofers sealant may have dried up and is allowing air to pass thru
> the surround cloth. This would be a good time to reseal the surrounds
> with a flexable sealent to tighten up that deep bass.
Hi there
Can you please recommend some "flexable sealent" by brand names and
possible type of retail outlet that would carry such a product?
Thanks -- Gerard
Stewart Schooley
cleaning. Read about using rubbing alcohol. Never heard of that before. I
get to thinking about this. I removed the nut and washer and using a
syringe my wife has for her MS medicine, I squirted 190 proof ethyl
alcohol around the threads and let it run down in. Also squirted on the
shaft to see if it would work it's way down in like WD 40. Decided to do
this to the other speaker too.
Gave both pretty big doses, let them go a couple hours and repeated it.
Another two hours and did it again. Two more hours drying time and I
hooked them up. Good news! The bad one kicks in at about 3/8" from the
end of increase. Set the other one in the same position. Moving the
balance control back and forth gives no difference that I can hear. Both
shafts move more smoothly.
My daughter has been using these speakers for a couple years because her
apartment is small. She is a lovely and intelligent young woman
[naturally!], but I have to tell you, she has always been heavy handed
with any kind of equipment. I think I'll glue the shafts so she can't use
the tweeters and force her to rely on the bass and treble controls.
I got the alcohol about 20 years ago to use in a recipe for removing
varnish from oil paintings. My Doctor wrote me a prescription and I
bought it in a drug store.
As long as this continues to work, I'm going to leave well enough alone.
If there is any more trouble, then I will dig into the speaker.
Stewart
Conrad Field
So far I have only used Elmer's rubber cement but I am sure their
are better products out there. It seems only the very early AR's
cloth surrounds tend to lose their coating. I picked up the Elmers'
from my wife's hobby box and tried it on a pair of AR2's with
porious surrounds and it tighten up the bass to where it sounded
like the newer versions... Elmers rubber cement don't work to well
on glueing new surround in, It just doesn't hold.
RHersh
and it's flexible. I used to use a liquid latex product sold as dressing for
the sidewalls of tubular (sewup) racing bicycle tires, which are cotton or
silk. Can't find it any more.
Parts Express sells a liquid dope for speaker cones tha tmight work. Goes on
thin and stays tacky for a while. Never seen it used on a surround, though.
Cheers & luck
Ross Hershberger