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Lowther Horns

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Amanita Muscaria

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May 24, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/24/98
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I want to get a pair of Lowther Horns, but I dont want to build them
myself, and Lowther charges too much for their pre-builts. Is there any
other option? I live in Florida.

,

Jay Kickliter


Jim Dudley

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May 24, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/24/98
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Jay,

I recently built a pair of Medallion IIs and I'm very happy w/their
performance. Cost for plans was $60 and material costs were very
modest. I used Baltic Birch.

Jim

Kamaruddin

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May 25, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/25/98
to ama...@hotmail.com


Amanita Muscaria wrote:

> I want to get a pair of Lowther Horns, but I dont want to build them
> myself, and Lowther charges too much for their pre-builts. Is there any
> other option? I live in Florida.
>
> ,
>
> Jay Kickliter

Get a pair of Loth-X Azimuth. Two watts is too much for it.

One Eye jack

Milton Martins

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May 25, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/25/98
to

Jim,

I recently bought a pair of PM6-A from Lowther CLub of America and would
like to build or find a local shop who can pre cut the right sizes and
angles.

Which drivers are you using with the Medalion ?
How long it took for your drivers to break in?
Are you happy with the bass?

Woud you share your building & listening impressions?

Thank you

Milton Maritns

Jim Dudley <ji...@polaris.net> wrote in article <35690...@polaris.net>...


> Amanita Muscaria wrote:
> >
> > I want to get a pair of Lowther Horns, but I dont want to build them
> > myself, and Lowther charges too much for their pre-builts. Is there any
> > other option? I live in Florida.
> >
> > ,
> >
> > Jay Kickliter
>
>

PhCATuan

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May 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/26/98
to
></PRE></HTML>

I tried the PM6A in a 25 liter box. After breaking infor 20 hrs, the midrange
peakiness is still there, pretty irritating.Pointing the speaker straight and
paralle to each other tamed it a little bit, but detail were lost, the highs on
these speakers do beam. Bass is weak but i plan to use it with subs.

Does anybody have tamed that midrane peak in these Lowther??
Pls share your experience, Thks.

Steve Jones

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May 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/26/98
to

PhCATuan wrote:
>
> Does anybody have tamed that midrane peak in these Lowther??
> Pls share your experience, Thks.

I've tamed the midrange peak in a pair of PM5As (15 ohm version) in
Medallion IIs.

Use a 20 ohm non-inductive power resistor in parallel with the driver.
Glue a Deflex panel in the chamber wall opposite the driver. And lastly,
use the big "Door Knob" style diffusor phase plug.

The diffusor plug will tame the peak too much (dulling the sound) with
the lesser motored Lowther drivers (PM6A, PM7A, and PM2A). With the
PM5A, it works extremely well, **in a nearfield listening environment**.
One extra with the diffusor, it opens up the sweet spot greatly, as
compared to using the standard "bullet" phase plug. The result is a
*very* well balanced sound.

-Steve Jones

Kurt Hirsch

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May 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/26/98
to

Using the resistor, do you still use the 16 ohm tap?

Kurt

daveslagle

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May 27, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/27/98
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> PhCATuan wrote:
> >
> > Does anybody have tamed that midrane peak in these Lowther??
> > Pls share your experience, Thks.

check out:

http://www.goodnet.com/~darmah/lowther/mods.htm

i have had good results with this tweek.... it does kill the hf response
a bit, but i also use a focal 96db tweeter to finish off the top end
(.68mfd cap chosen by ear to mate the two)

many people have mentioned stuffing the gap, but marc's mod addresses
the distortion between the two cones, and that thing he mentions about
the stereo imaging improving is no joke!

if you try it, give it some time, it really is a different sound, but my
ears adjusted to it eventually preferred it... its funny as i am
listening, i can actually hear the foam coming off and the sound
changing... it makes me look up and indeed see the foam coming out of
place.

I have tried the swamping resistor, but remember, you will be throwing
away some of your power as heat... its ok if you use 300B's, but a 45 or
2A3..

dave

Thom Mackris

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May 29, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/29/98
to

Hi Milton -

I'm just completing building a pair of Medallion II cabinets from
Lowther-America's kit. I have a reasonable amount of woodworking experience -
enough to have considered building Lynn Olson's Ariels for example. There
actually is a pair of these in progress, but that's another story.

Anyhow, my point is that if you spend the money on the kit and you want it to
come out looking like a professional job, this had better not be the first time
you've touched a piece of wood unless you either have a lot of other manual
skills under your belt or an experienced friend to discuss the project with.
There is precision work and technique involved in clamping together the kit. I
don't say this to scare you away, but in the same vain, it's not like picking
up some O'Sullivan furniture at K-Mart and gluing & screwing it together in an
evening.

The kit is well designed and for the most part very precisely cut. The manual
is also well done (written by Dr. Bottlehead), but like all technical writing,
field testing results in discovering areas where you can be clearer.

One thing I'd note here is that patience and not trying to glue too many braces
in one gluing session is of paramount importance. Toward the end of the first
cabinet, I almost got too overconfident. Just remember, the tree took a
hundred years to grow, and these cabinets (unless you're the itchy kind) will
be around for a long time .... don't rush it.

Another general suggestion I have is that I think Doc suggests too few clamps
as the minimum requirement. I have 4 bar clamps (he suggested 2) and 2 web
clamps. For the final assembly (gluing the side and 2 tops on) I'm going to
pick up 2 more clamps. Additionally, I recommend using scrap wood or MDF to
distribute the clamping force rather than just relying on clamping pads to
protect the cabinet.

In addition to the above observations, I made some suggestions to
Lowther-America regarding the instruction manual, particularly the order of
assembly. It's a bit too detailed to go into here, since the comments all
reference part numbers, and without the assembly manual you wouldn't make much
sense of it. If anyone's involved in building these, I'd be happy to e-mail
you my thoughts on assembly.

Good luck in your decision.

Regards,
Thom

Milton Martins wrote:

> Jim,

Kurt Hirsch

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May 29, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/29/98
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Jim Dougherty wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> How much are the Reps 1 drivers?
>
> Best regards
> James

I believe they list for $1300 each and available only in 8 0hm. I've
held one of these babies in my hand and they are extremely well built.
The magnet alone is said to cost Frank Reps more than $400.

Kurt

j...@videotron.ca

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May 30, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/30/98
to

The following horns are for sale. All are in mint condition, hardly ever used
at all. Some are in their original factory cartons.

Serious inquiries please eMail for a very good price quote. This stock has to
move.

Delphic
Opus 1
TP 1
Mauhorn IV
Mauhorn V without drive units, red mahogany. (100$ plus s&h)
Acousta 115

All fitted with premium Lowther drive units. PM-5, PM4, PM7 etc. Also have
many REPS 1 drivers for sale.

regards,

Jerome

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Jim Dougherty

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May 30, 1998, 3:00:00 AM5/30/98
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