Jack G
Not turned on? Not plugged in (either the receiver or the speakers)?
Sorry for sounding so flip; but you've not given any clue as to what may
be the problem.
Try again....
jak
the problem is no sound are coming out of the speakers. Everything is
plugged in properly
In fact sound does not get from the "receiver to the speakers" in any case,
only electrical signals.
I think he needs to call someone.
MrT.
I plug my ipod into the reciever. The reciever is supposed to send
that signal to the speakers. It doesn't. Im asking what my problem is
cause im stumped.
Lights and everything comes on ok?
No sound from any source suggests the amplifier section presuming that the
speakers are connected properly.
No teenager that might have blown both your speakers? (You guys laugh but I
spent a while diagnosing a pioneer amp only to eventually find out my teen
daughter turned the volume all the way up and went up stairs. 4 speakers
destroyed.)
<knigh...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3376f702-7691-4846...@t11g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
Actually I am a teenager. I bought it with my own money and I would
never abuse anything to the point it breaks. The speakers are fine I
tested them with another player. When im on the setting for ipod it
just doesnt play.
>I plug my ipod into the reciever. The reciever is supposed to send
>that signal to the speakers. It doesn't. Im asking what my problem is
>cause im stumped.
This is a receiver and has a radio inside? Does the radio play?
Does any other source play?
All good fortune,
Chris Hornbeck
Okay, start from the beginning. When did the problem start? What
'does' happen when you turn it on: lights; clicks...odors? Into which
input do you plug the Ipod? Any sound on other sources?
Really, give us a clue...actually more than a clue. Let us know the
whole story or you'll not get any help--at least any that you can use.
Damn it, Jim! We're techies, not clairvoyants!
jak
Ill explain everything. I used it very frequently then stopped using
it. The radio does not work. A few weeks ago I kept on hearing it
CLICK every 5 seconds so I turned it off. When it worked it plugged an
audio cord (Red,White) into the front which is the Video setting. When
I hit video it doesnt work. It says video on the display and goes away
10 seconds later back to 0:00. Speakers are fine. It turns on and off.
If you have any more questons I can answer them. I just wnat this
fixed.
> A few weeks ago I kept on hearing it
>CLICK every 5 seconds
This is interesting. Could you amplify?
CH
Nope. Am I the only one frustrated?
That's probably what you'll have to do: have it fixed. From cursory
research, this 1994 110wpc (in stereo) Dolby Pro-logic receiver tends to
get pretty hot in operation. From this remove, it seems like it could
have overheated (the clicks). Is there anything on it like an
'overload' or 'protect' indicator? Do you have the unit situated where
it can get good ventilation?
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but I imagine it's toast. Repair
might be an option, but I doubt it's anything you can do yourself,
unless you want to do some serious research into the process.
Sorry....
jak
But it turns on you can change settings it seems to me as if I just
pushed a wrong button and fucked up a setting that I dont know about
or how to change back.
Of course not. That's what he wants the receiver for....
<G>
Sounds like protect mode--probably overheating--to me. One of these
sold on eBay for $215 recently; another's on sale now with a BIN of
$999. It originally listed (in 94) for around $1200. It's probably
worth fixing; but Carver is out of biz now, I believe. Might be hard to
find service....
jak
When I hit a setting lets say AM radio. On the display it says AM then
5 seconds later it says 0:00. Im trying to see if I can fix it before
buying a new one.
If you're unable to diagnose any further than that, then follow my previous
suggestion.
MrT.
>But it turns on you can change settings it seems to me as if I just
>pushed a wrong button and fucked up a setting that I dont know about
>or how to change back.
True if this were a software problem, but this is a hardware
problem. How's your soldering? If you are, or can get up to
speed on soldering, you *might* be able to revive it yourself.
Many problems in modern consumer electronics are caused by
bad solder joints, and any that aren't are beyond your
ability to diagnose. So, how's your soldering?
I work on pinball machines, my soldering is perfect. What would I have
to solder is it a diode problem?
Also if I cant get this fixed what is the best receiver I should get?
Trust me, *you* aren't going to fix it. Proably worth getting an estimate
from a qualified service technican.
I can almost guarentee you that if I find the problem I can fix it.m
>I work on pinball machines, my soldering is perfect. What would I have
>to solder is it a diode problem?
Now yer cookin' with gas. Unplug this guy (from everything!)
and open it up where you can get bright lights to shine
into it. Give it a few hours to discharge any juice left
in the bigger cap's. Then, start by *looking*. Use *very*
bright lights; what you want to see is very small.
Parts that get hot in normal operation will have conducted
heat down their leads to the solder joints conecting 'em
to their circuit boards. When the machine is turned off
these solder joints cool down. Then they're heated up next
use; then cooled down... like that. This thermal cycling
eventually damages the solder joint. It's called a
"crystalized joint", which is almost correct.
So, you want to look very closely at the solder/trace side
of all circuit boards that hot parts get connected to. Of
course the output transistors or output "modules" (these
parts will be mounted to the biggest heat radiators /"heat
sinks") are the first place to look, but also look closely
at the voltage regulator ICs' solder joints. But a bright
light and a sharp eye are the real keys to success.
You'll want to look both for a crumbly, un-shiny, un-pretty
joint (that's soon to fail!), and for "ring-cracks", circular
gaps that have opened around the pads of the devices' legs.
Suck out the old solder from any and all remotely suspicious
looking joints, resolder, then look some more.
Worth a shot, and you'll have done about all that can be done
non-professionally. All the best fortune, and let us know how
it goes,
Chris Hornbeck
And I can guarantee from what you've written so far, *you* ain't going to
find the problem.
MrT.
I'm a little murky about the 0:00 display. Do you have a manual? The
limited info that I've seen make mention of much confusion with
front-panel indicators and controls. I hope that's your problem, but
the clicking you mentioned seems problematic. I take it that was a new
development.
Anyway, things to look for (generically speaking, since I don't have the
manual) are speaker selector switches and tape monitor modes which might
have been inadvertently toggled.
Finally, unplug it and leave it overnight. Plug it back up in the
morning and see if anything improves. Otherwise, I'm afraid you're
looking at professional help or a replacement.
jak
jak
I have some experience with these. The OP has no chance of fixing it
himself. If it helps, this model is a rebadged Marantz SR-92.
Mark Z.
> I can almost guarantee you that if I find the problem I
> can fix it.m
I might even believe that. Fixing stuff is often 95% diagnosis and 5%
repair.
I've read all of the other posts (so far)and have to agree that it
would be unlikely that you'll be able to fix this unit yourself.
However, there are a couple of things that you can check for yourself,
as long as you are good with PC board soldering and an ohm meter.
This unit was a 'customized' (for Carver) version of a Marantz SR-92
receiver. Carver issued a bulletin suggesting changing R902 in the
power supply to a 47 ohm 2W flame proof resistor, and at the same time
change the 'hologram relay' to their part number LY20240400, what ever
that is. I would at least find R902 and make sure that it is not open.
These amps also run very hot and sometimes the small driver
transistors in the front amps need to be resoldered or replaced. As I
recall, look at Q701 and 703 in the left channel, and Q702 and 704 in
the right. Q701 and 702 are 2SA1145, and Q703 and 704 are 2SC2705. If
they look cooked, you might want to replace them. I'd check them with
an ohm meter first to see if they are still functional. The transistors
can be ordered from many suppliers, among them (in the US) MCM
Electronics (www.mcmelectronics.com). You should check over the
soldering of that area of the PC board while you are there.
Lastly, there is a reset button ,S801, on the main board near the
center that should set everything back to factory default.
My final comment is that if you don't know how to ohm-meter check a
transistor, or have a friend who does, then its time to visit a repair shop.
Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
If there is a problem causing the protection relays to disengage, try
measuring the votages in fronnt of the relays. It should be very close to zero DC.
Two channels ?
greg
I opened it and there is quite frankly a lot of shit. I have no idea
where to start. If someone could tell me where to start. Thats what I
need
HELP
Get a schematic. Learn how it works.
I dont have a schematic first of all. Second if I knew how it worked I
wouldnt be asking how to fix it.
Look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380097152242
I have the same problem. All im asking from you guys is
Whats wrong
Where in the receiver is it
How to fix it.
I doubt they would "look cooked", even if they have been destroyed.
>I'd check them with
> an ohm meter first to see if they are still functional.
Which assumes he has a meter and can use it. Something not evident in the
previous posts.
> My final comment is that if you don't know how to ohm-meter check a
> transistor, or have a friend who does, then its time to visit a repair
shop.
Which others have told him many times already.
MrT.
Start by taking it to someone who knows what they are doing.
MrT.
> Look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380097152242
> I have the same problem. All im asking from you guys is
> Whats wrong
> Where in the receiver is it
> How to fix it.
First of all, how the hell is posting a link to an eBay auction of
*another* non-working unit (whose owner has no clue why it doesn't work)
supposed to help?
You apparently haven't been getting the message, that there are lots and
lots of things that could be wrong with your receiver--could be a blown
chip, transistor, relay, etc., etc.--and that you seem to lack the
diagnostic skills to determine what the problem is.
Even though, as Arnie pointed out, a lot of repairs are 95% diagnosis
and 5% actual repair (in other words, easy to fix once you figure out
what the problem is), there's no way in hell you're going to diagnose
the problem by bugging people here and repeatedly asking "What's wrong
with it?".
You have to at least get your hands on a schematic. They're out there.
--
"I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon."
- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by
the late Hunter S. Thompson
I dont know how to diagnose it but I work on pinball machines not
stereos. One of you guys from the information i have given should have
been able to help...not really.
> I dont know how to diagnose it but I work on pinball machines not
> stereos. One of you guys from the information i have given should have
> been able to help...not really.
OK, let's look at it this way. Taking your ability to repair pinball
machines at face value, suppose someone here posted that they had a
machine that lit up but otherwise didn't work, and asked "can you tell
me what's wrong with it?". How would you go about helping that person?
You'd need more information about what was wrong with their machine,
right? I assume there are lots of ways a pinball machine can fail; how
could you possibly tell them where to look without more information? And
I assume you have schematics for the machines you work on, right?
You see how this works?
> been able to help...not really.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yeah, what's wrong with you guys?
That's your fault.
> Second if I knew how it worked I wouldnt be asking how to fix it.
It's very hard to actually fix a broken component over the web.
jak
What has he said so far that gives you the idea he could read and understand
one, let alone use it to figure out what exactly is wrong with his amp?
MrT.
Well, he says he works on pinball machines, which presumably require
knowledge of reading schematics, so I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt.
Since there are zillions of different units out there you can't expect to
find someone in a news group that will have first hand knowledge on
servicing this particular unit. There are a number of people in this group
that probably could help you but not without a schematic and service manual.
<knigh...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4080adb-b853-4f49...@r22g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
You are unable to describe your problem in the detail necessary to allow
anyone to guess at a cause.
You need to find someone who likes playing with electroics. There are
usually a few of these in any high school. Ask around until you find one or
two. Get them to help you.
They'll probably want the schematic. If it's not in the owners manual
you'll probably need to buy one.
Dave M.