rack rail thread problem

[hollywo...@my-deja.com]

I purchased an Altec 900-28 open style rack for use with my patch
bays. Its your basic wide open, 4 corner post style rack, assembly
required. It is available in two styles, with tapped rails for
standard rack screws and simple punched rails for use with nuts behind
the rails. I ordered the tapped version but the internal threads on
the rails are nearly non-existant. I am basically tapping the rails
each time I drive a screw in. That's fine when it works, but often the
screw just tears thru the rail. The only solution that I can think of
is to use nuts behind these "blown" rail holes. Any other solutions?

Thanks.

Steve
s...@soca.com

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[hollywo...@my-deja.com]

<<
any other solutions?
<<

other than mailing the whole thing back to Atlas with a note demanding
a refund?

[Mike Suhm]

You can take one of your screws to almost any hardware store and they should
be able to sell you a thread tapper to match the screw. Then just re-tap
the holes before you insert the screws. It's easy to do.

Mike / Audio Pros

<hollywo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8tnrfd$qoo$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[ItsTooLoud]

There are two types of clip-nuts available on the market.
One is the style supplied with SKB type racks, with a real hexagon nut held by
a clip that will snap over your rack rail.
The other is a simple stamped clip that your screw can get a bite into. I
keep some of these around in case of rail damage like you are experiencing.

Paul Andre
Hip-Pocket.com

[George Gleason]

I am basically tapping the rails
> each time I drive a screw in. That's fine when it works, but often the
> screw just tears thru the rail. The only solution that I can think of
> is to use nuts behind these "blown" rail holes. Any other solutions?

buy the 10/32 tap and any time a screw doesn't go
e right in easily back the screw out and run the tap thru it the problem
is the threads are cut before the rack is painted and the threads are full
of goop over time the threads will corrode and need cleaning up so a 10/32
tap should be in your tool kit
George Gleason

[hollywo...@my-deja.com]

Thanks for all of the responses - I think that I'll be able to make
this thing work, now.

steve

[hollywo...@my-deja.com]

In article <8tprlf$eir$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,

hollywo...@my-deja.com wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for all of the responses - I think that I'll be able to make
> this thing work, now.
>
> steve
> s...@soca.com
>

Bought a 10-32 tap at lunch today and cleaned up 24 holes in 10 minutes
or so. It was just paint in the threads, lots of paint. So much that
two of the rail strips looked like they had never been threaded. But
only 1 or 2 holes were actually any trouble, they took a little effort,
but the whole thing is now assembled. Thanks again. And I strongly
agree that anyone working with lots of painted rack rails spend a few
bucks on the 10-32 tap.

[George Gleason]

<hollywo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8tq40j$mce$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

I cant describe the stripped screws and swear words I went through before I
bought the tap.
George

[JW]

I think it's 10-24

[Richard Kuschel]

No, standard rack rails use 10/32 screws.

There were a few 24" Racks built for certain older systems that used 10/24 but
these are neither made nor sold anymore.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[F. Robert Falbo]

On 01 Nov 2000 10:52:57 GMT, ItsTooLoud wrote:
> There are two types of clip-nuts available on the market.
> One is the style supplied with SKB type racks, with a real hexagon nut held
> by
> a clip that will snap over your rack rail.
> The other is a simple stamped clip that your screw can get a bite into. I
> keep some of these around in case of rail damage like you are experiencing.

Actually, I use a third type... they have a captive square nut and accept
#8 or #10 (I forget which) machine screws. I use them on SKB boxes, and on
the steel racks our radio equipment is mounted in. For my own stereo, I
found a welded aluminum rack (Navy surplus) and cut it down to the proper
height. It uses PEM nuts swaged on, and doesn't rely on aluminum threads.
-bob-
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