Speaker Cabinet Finishing
Doc Johnson
far. I need to cover up the high density fiberboard with something. I was
going to get some red oak veneer and use a black dye on them but the veneer
gets to be expensive as the cabinets are pretty large. I notice that some of
speaker manufacturers, including some high end ones, are using a vinyl
covering. Does anyone know where to get this stuff? I have also seen some
black woodgrain laminate but I have not yet found a source for it. Thanks in
advance.
Richard D Pierce
Generally, cabinet manufacturers apply whetever finish the
speaker will have BEFORE the cabinet is built. More
specifically, the purchase large sheets of MDF with the veneer
already applied, slice it and join it up that way. Large
manufacturers use a process called "V-groove," where the sheet
goods are sliced using a v-groove cutter which cuts all the way
through to the back of the finiach layer, and then the cabinet
are just folded up using the finish layer (veneer or vinyl) as a
"hinge." Glue is applied to the joints and then the whole thing
is cured in a few seconds using RF or UV curing technologies.
Applying veneer and, expecially, applying vinyl to an existing
cabinet is a tough job. Even pressure needs to be applied across
the entire surface, and that's often tough to do well. I conce
had a small side business of refinishing existing cabinets in
exotic veneers: it was a lot of work to do right, required a lot
of care and a LOT of campls (and the ever useful "go-bar" deck)
and, as a result, I could charge top dollar (several dunfred
bucks a cabinet, sometimes, back in 1975) for such work.
Here's a suggestion that might work for you: if you can afford
the increase in size, go get some 1/4" or 1/2" veneered plywood
(which you can get in all sorts of neat stuff, like oak, walnut,
cherry, zebrawood, bubinga, rosewood, mahagony and such) and
sking the existing cabinet with that. Apply it first to the
sides using pieces slightly oversized, trim it flush with a
flush-trimming router bit, then apply it to the top and bottom,
again weith a flush trimming bit. Hid the plywod edges the
remain by rabbeting in 1/8" and applying a piece of solid wood
of the same species. Making the cabinet wall thicker can't hurt.
--
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dave weil
And if you want to go the easy route, you could do a faux finish
directly on the fibreboard. Get some heavy duty "cover-all" primer and
paint it. Then get whacked. Do a faux marble if you like. Or maybe a
rag technique. Anything you can do for a wall, you can do on a
cabinet. Paint the thing turquoise! You could even do a faux wood
finish. The library is full of faux painting techniques. It's quite
hip nowadays to have wacky painted furniture - be part of the artsy
community and impress your guests! The wilder the better.
Just another alternative.
Joseph Oberlander
> And if you want to go the easy route, you could do a faux finish
> directly on the fibreboard. Get some heavy duty "cover-all" primer and
> paint it. Then get whacked. Do a faux marble if you like. Or maybe a
> rag technique. Anything you can do for a wall, you can do on a
> cabinet. Paint the thing turquoise! You could even do a faux wood
> finish. The library is full of faux painting techniques. It's quite
> hip nowadays to have wacky painted furniture - be part of the artsy
> community and impress your guests! The wilder the better.
>
> Just another alternative.
I'd suggest this or sand sand sand it down to a nice finish and
then stain it. Then, laquer. Even MDF can look impressive with
a good finish.
Bruce Burke
Go to the site below and ask questions. There are some impressive
woodworkers there:
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/discuss.cgi
Regards,
Bruce
Hitting reply is futile, use the following:
.(wb4...@juno.com).
Henrik
news:3EE80C9...@earthlink.net...
I painted my 5.1 system in a unique way; I rolled thick light-coloured
wall-paint, mixed with gravel. Tried it on sample piece first.
Henrik
dave weil
wrote:
Yep, you can use textured paint to create the same effect. However, I
didn't recommend this because I wasn't sure how such a heavy paint
would affect the resonance of the box. It might damp the box nicely,
but then again...
Richard D Pierce
dave weil <dw...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>I painted my 5.1 system in a unique way; I rolled thick light-coloured
>>wall-paint, mixed with gravel. Tried it on sample piece first.
>>
>didn't recommend this because I wasn't sure how such a heavy paint
>would affect the resonance of the box. It might damp the box nicely,
>but then again...
Considering the mass of the cabinet walls, the mass of the
paint, the amount of expected flecure in the walls and the
mechical viscosity of the paint, it's a pretty safe bet that it
will have, at the very most, an tremendously insignificant
effect.
George M. Middius
Pierced Dick Krooglished:
> expected flecure in the walls
> mechical viscosity
This certainly doesn't sound the same as human language.
Harvey Gerst
>dave weil <dw...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>I painted my 5.1 system in a unique way; I rolled thick light-coloured
>>>wall-paint, mixed with gravel. Tried it on sample piece first.
>>>
>>Yep, you can use textured paint to create the same effect. However, I
>>didn't recommend this because I wasn't sure how such a heavy paint
>>would affect the resonance of the box. It might damp the box nicely,
>>but then again...
>Considering the mass of the cabinet walls, the mass of the
>paint, the amount of expected flecure in the walls and the
>mechical viscosity of the paint, it's a pretty safe bet that it
>will have, at the very most, an tremendously insignificant
>effect.
How insignificant? Are we talking 0.01%, or 0.001%, which is a full order of
magnitude difference? Have you heard about the new digital sprayguns which
shoot paint out as pixels? But since it's liquid, it spreads as it dries, and
the little squares flow into each other and appear as a smooth surface. Some
painters swear they can still see the little squares though.
Harvey Gerst
Indian Trail Recording Studio
http://www.ITRstudio.com/
Powell
"Joseph Oberlander" wrote
>I'd suggest this or sand sand sand it down to a nice
> finish and then stain it. Then, laquer. Even MDF
> can look impressive with a good finish.
>
You're not married, are you :)?
Joseph Oberlander
Um - yep. Note I said - Sanding(lots of it) - plus stain,
THEN about half a dozen coats of laquer. MIght be easier to
paint it white and smooth, then add a fake wood pattern on it.
flint
> THEN about half a dozen coats of laquer. MIght be easier to
> paint it white and smooth, then add a fake wood pattern on it.
I have found that a good oil based primer on the MDF edges will make them
responsive to sanding. I use "Kilz" which is a fast drying moister barrier
primer. Then I sand like crazy until the edge is as smooth as the surface.
Then any paint (I like gloss black enamel) will look great.
It isn't wood, but a solid smooth black monolith can be attractive in the
right room.
- FLINT
mikemckelvy
"Doc Johnson" <bluescreen@(nospam)comcast.net> wrote in message
news:MuqcnbNjtpv...@comcast.com...
an acrylic or laquer in whatever color you choose. An alternate would be to
get some 1/4" plywood of high quality and add it to your cabinets. There's
always felt or that carpet they use for car stereo boxes, but I wouldn't.
The vinyl idea is ok for the price and should be available at a home
improvement center or Home Depot.
Robert Morein
suggestion.
Finish the speakers in black laquer.
Then attach hardwood sideboards that go part way up the cabinet.