How much of a pita is this to fix??
David Correia
www.Celebrationsound.com
If it's like most other Duals, there's a pin coming down from the tone arm that
moves the arm when a platform comes up underneath it and moves sideways,
moving the pin and therefore the arm. There is a little rubber cup on the bottom
of that pin that wears out, and then the platform doesn't put enough pressure on
the pin to make it move with the platform. You'll have to find or make some kind
of a substitute for that cup as Dual is gone and replacements are unobtanium.
Playing with different lubricants and amounts of lube for the upper side of the
platform can also yield results. There needs to be some lube or the rubber cup
will wear out in short order, but if it's too slippery the arm won't move. There
may also be a way to adjust the height of the platform when in the up position -
too low and the arm won't move for lack of pressure on the pin; too high and it
jams the pin and the arm won't move. Duals are finicky. Very finicky.
HTH,
Fred
Maybe you can find something helpful here:
<http://wegavision.pytalhost.com/dual.html>
("Anleitung" = user manual, "Service" = service manual)
Unfortunately, the service manual for just the 621 isn't provided, but I
think it's highly propable to find the manual for a comparable type.
HTH
Reinhard
It's probably not anywhere near as bad as the older idler-drive duals where
everything was mechanical. They were just a horrible nightmare. The direct
drive ones aren't so bad; I would first check the contacts and make sure the
control board knows where the arm is. Get the service manual, they are out
there!
Note that these do have audible cogging and some arm issues; Paul Stamler's
putty trick might help.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
> Note that these do have audible cogging and some arm issues; Paul Stamler's
> putty trick might help.
With the arm, not the cogging!
For those who haven't encountered it, the putty trick is to wrap a
thin donut of Mortite, 3M Strip-Calk, or plumber's stainless putty
around the tonearm's shaft. If you do one halfway down the shaft and
another 1/3 of the way from the headshell to the pivot, it helps damp
down nasty resonances. You don't need much putty; if you make the
donut from a piece of unstretched Mortite (about 4mm in diameter)
then, once it's on the arm, flatten it out, you'll be fine. Of course,
the added weight will mean you need to reset the tracking force.
This won't be necessary on a really good tonearm, but on a less
stellar one it can help a lot with damping nasty resonances.
Peace,
Paul
Better make sure it can't fall off while the record's playing...
Actually, if you like the TT but don't want to bother with the fix, look for
a 701 or a 601. The 701, Dual's first and flagship Direct Drive, had a
massive platter that overcame cogging, and a better, extra-long tonearm.
The 601 featured moderately-heavy platter and a belt drive, and if
well-mainained is an excellent turntable. Both are semi-automatic
turntables and therefore are simpler than automatic Duals. However, be
forewarned that almost all Duals will need some attention to their
auto-mechanisms sometimes during their lifetime.
Attention that will probably involve an incinerator or trash compactor....
As long as it's a closed ring with the ends firmly joined together,
and the ring is pressed firmly against the shaft and flattened out, it
won't fall off. At least, the ones I've put on never have, and one of
them's been in place for 15 years.
If you're really paranoid put the gap at the bottom of the ring; then
you'll have some help from gravity. But you won't need it.
Peace,
Paul