Re: Behringer Eurodexk MX3282 fader problem
David Morgan (MAMS)
<parame...@NOhotmail.com> wrote in message news:kac0441nhd0obj03o...@4ax.com...
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
If you're forced to use these channels, you may have to push the input
gain a bit and keep the fader below the scratchy point. Don't clip the
input in taking this advice, that would only be worse.
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
It's shot, and repairing it is pretty much a lost cause, expense-wise,
even though the 3282 is a nice big desk. It's also a very brittle and
bright sounding board... a bit less than 'musical' in it's operating
characteristics. It will, however, do nicely until you run out of good
channels or functioning parts.
> If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
> Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
I thought the manual said they were "sealed". (?) If so, there's nothing
that you can do to get at the problem. If they were metallic tracks, they're
probably rusted... if they were carbonized plastic, they're likely just
decayed and crumbling apart, in which case, nothing can restore the
conductivity. Somehow though, I really doubt they're fully sealed... but
the problem is not likely one of dust or grime, but one of decay.
--
David Morgan (MAMS)
Morgan Audio Media Service
http://www.m-a-m-s DOT com
Dallas, Texas (214) 662-9901
_____________________________
http://www.januarysound.com
Scott Dorsey
>
>I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
>their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
>faders have dead spots on the upper end.
They do that, yeah.
>The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
>can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
>bad?
They aren't really very well sealed. You can try squirting Cramolin
in them, or CaiLube, but don't expect it to last all that long. These
consoles are basically designed to be disposable, but care and cleaning
will keep them alive a little longer.
>If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
>Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
The way the faders on these work, the control moves the actual tap,
which sits right on top of the resistive element. The case of the
fader holds the tap inside and scrapes against the fader when it moves.
It's not like a professional fader where the knob moves along a rail
and moves the tap along it. Consequently, all you need to do to clean
it is to stick the nozzle into the slit in the panel, squirt a little
Cailube in, and move the control up and down. The element is right under
the slit, which is part of why it gets contaminated so easily.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Eeyore
parame...@NOhotmail.com wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
>
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
Probably just 'worn out'.
I should think the cost of repair will come close to replacement so you
might care to consider a more durable model next time round or one that's
more easily repairable.
Graham
Mike Rivers
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
More likely that they're going bad, but no slide fader that cheap is
truly sealed. You can probably find a hole or a crack to spray some
contact cleaner/lubricant in but that's only a temporary measure.
--
If you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring and reach
me here:
double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo -- I'm really Mike Rivers
(mriv...@d-and-d.com)
Arny Krueger
message news:BzW%j.35$%Z1.1@trnddc05
> It's shot, and repairing it is pretty much a lost cause,
> expense-wise,
> even though the 3282 is a nice big desk.
Let's see - a new replacment would run less than $600. It would cost about
$80 just to get a tech to look at it.
The logical thing to do would be to replace all 32 faders. At $10 each,
that's another $320 parts only, and parts at fire sale prices.
Bottom line, the 3282 owner would be out $400 plus labor for removing and
replacing 32 faders. That will sum to being close to or in excess of $600.
If you pick this option, what the 3282 owner ends up with is an old desk
with new faders. :-(
Bottom line - equipment like the 3282 is only economical to repair in
warranty, unless the problem is truely trivial.
Tim Perry
<parame...@NOhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:kac0441nhd0obj03o...@4ax.com...
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
>
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
>
>
> Thanks
> the ol...
> - parametricEQ
Although this is a moderately priced mixer replacing a few pots should be a
4 hour job at the most.
While you 'might' be able to spray you troubles away a thorough job requires
disassembly and at that point you might as well have spare sliders on hand
for replacement.
Next you can take apart some of the old pots and determine the fault.
Sometimes cleaning and relubing is sufficient. Other times the resistive
material is worn away and/or contact finger stock is bent or missing.
Often there is evidence of coffee or other beverage inside the pots and on
the bottom cover.
gareth magennis
<parame...@NOhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:kac0441nhd0obj03o...@4ax.com...
> Howdy,
>
> I have a number of questions as I'm about to assist my church and
> their sound. They have a Behringer Eurodesk MX3282. Some of the
> faders have dead spots on the upper end.
>
> The manual states that the faders are 'sealed', so the question is,
> can dust and grime still affect the fader, or is it more likely going
> bad?
>
> If it could be dust, etc. what is the best procedure to get rid of it?
> Vacuum suck it? Blow something on it? (and what product to use?)
>
> the ol...
> - parametricEQ
If the faders are worn then I would go with all of the replies so far, but
if you are lucky, you may be able to repair the faders yourself.
Sometimes these types of faders are damaged by dropping things on or leaning
on the fader knob. What happens is that the track gets forced out of the
metal housing, past the small pins holding it in, usually just at one end.
The wipers then do not contact the tracks at this end and you totally lose
the audio, it doesn't just get scratchy at that point. If you press down at
the point where the audio dissapears you may be able to confirm this if the
signal comes back, and you can kind of "switch" it on and off by pressing.
If this is the case you still have a lot of work to do just getting the
circuit boards out, but if the desk is useless you may as well have a go.
Repairing the faders is a simple case of bending back the securing pins with
a small screwdriver, you don't even have to desolder the faders (which is a
very difficult job anyway even for a pro).
Good luck.
Gareth.
Eeyore
Tim Perry wrote:
> Although this is a moderately priced mixer replacing a few pots should be a
> 4 hour job at the most.
Have you ever opened one of those up ?
Although it's a little bigger, The Midas Venice recently retired from my local
venue to due to intermittent pots is rated as 8 hours work (by the UK
distributor) simply to disassemble and re-assemble before evm being able to do
any work on the PCBs.
Graham
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> Repairing the faders is a simple case of bending back the securing pins with
> a small screwdriver, you don't even have to desolder the faders (which is a
> very difficult job anyway even for a pro).
Sorry, that's nonsense.
The fader tracks probably have the carbon worn off at the point they become
intermittent and require replacement.
It would be best to replace ALL the faders since there are doubtless more just
waiting to fail too.
In addition he should check for any scratchy rotary pots at the same time. The
time required to open up these single board mixers for repair is so high that
you really don't want to do it more than once.
Then there's the problem of locating a supply of the right faders and pots,
since Behringer offer no service info or support to do-it-yourselfers.
The trash is probably the best place for it and buy an A&H next time.
Graham
gareth magennis
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriend...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:48411515...@hotmail.com...
>
>
> gareth magennis wrote:
>
>> Repairing the faders is a simple case of bending back the securing pins
>> with
>> a small screwdriver, you don't even have to desolder the faders (which is
>> a
>> very difficult job anyway even for a pro).
>
> Sorry, that's nonsense.
Sorry, but without any evidence to the contrary how can you say that? I
have repaired these type of faults many times in the past.
It particularly happens when the fader housing is screwed to the front
panel. Push hard on the knob and you push the track out through the housing
because the circuit board flexes. Often you will find 2 or more adjacent
faders with the same problem because something big and heavy hit more than 1
fader knob, or the flexing board just pulled more than one fader apart. You
can just carefully put the track back and bend back the securing tabs.
Gareth.
gareth magennis
> Sorry, but without any evidence to the contrary how can you say that? I
> have repaired these type of faults many times in the past.
>
> It particularly happens when the fader housing is screwed to the front
> panel. Push hard on the knob and you push the track out through the
> housing because the circuit board flexes. Often you will find 2 or more
> adjacent faders with the same problem because something big and heavy hit
> more than 1 fader knob, or the flexing board just pulled more than one
> fader apart. You can just carefully put the track back and bend back the
> securing tabs.
>
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>
>
The OP said "dead spots", not scratchy faders. Maybe he would care to
clarify the symptoms.
Laurence Payne
It's fun trying to trouble-shoot at a distance, isn't it? Especially
when some people are so SURE they know the answer :-)
This board belongs to a church. First off, squirt some cleaner in. If
it works tell them "I've got it going for now. But no guarantee.
Maybe the problem will come back".
If that doesn't work say "Servicing the board is not economic. Here's
the best price I can find for a replacement." And maybe "But for the
following reasons I recommend you get .... instead."
If you're absolutely confident of your skills and can get the parts,
try the job yourself. But remember, if it all goes wrong they won't
thank you for having a try. You'll just be the guy who ruined their
$600 mixer.
Mike Rivers
> Although it's a little bigger, The Midas Venice recently retired from my local
> venue to due to intermittent pots is rated as 8 hours work (by the UK
> distributor) simply to disassemble and re-assemble before evm being able to do
> any work on the PCBs.
This is why people WANT to do this sort of work themselves and ask how
on newsgroups and forums. I try to discourage anyone who has to ask what
to do, but they usually manage to either bungle through the job anyway.
Either they solve the problem (albeit temporarily) or they mess it up,
but had already resolved that it was going into the dumpster so it was
worth a try.
There's no reason why someone with patience and experience with
electronic servicing (not necessarily on the specific product) can't at
least do some exploratory surgery but you don't want to have to tell
them which screws to remove (and which ones not), how to use a volt
meter, how to check continuity, and how to remove a ribbon connector
without further damaging it. Most of us with the old knowledge don't
have that kind of patience any more, but maybe there are some newcomers
who don't mind typing out a couple of pages of disassembly instructions
30 times or so. <g> of course
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> "Eeyore" wrote in message
> > gareth magennis wrote:
> >
> >> Repairing the faders is a simple case of bending back the securing pins
> >> with a small screwdriver, you don't even have to desolder the faders (which
> is
> >> a very difficult job anyway even for a pro).
> >
> > Sorry, that's nonsense.
>
> Sorry, but without any evidence to the contrary how can you say that?
I've seen their faders. I know who make them. They're cheap and cheerful
'consumer' parts.
End of discussion.
Graham
Eeyore
Laurence Payne wrote:
> It's fun trying to trouble-shoot at a distance, isn't it? Especially
> when some people are so SURE they know the answer :-)
>
> This board belongs to a church. First off, squirt some cleaner in. If
> it works tell them "I've got it going for now. But no guarantee.
> Maybe the problem will come back".
And then of course, the pastor will say "but you said you fixed it" and
will ensure you're turned away at the pearly gates for so horribly
misleading him.
Religious people are like that. They expect everything for nothing are are
classic ingrates.
I'd run a mile from the problem quite frankly and not even attempt to 'fix
it' with squirty stuff. It WILL go wrong again and Sod's Law ensures it'll
be at the most inconvenient and embarrasing moment.
Into the dumpster with it is my strong advice (or send it back to
Behringer themselves).
Graham
Gareth Magennis
You are still assuming that they are worn out or otherwise contaminated,
rather than have suffered mechanical damage which may be repairable, with no
evidence yet to support either theory.
Gareth.
Eeyore
Mike Rivers wrote:
> Eeyore wrote:
>
> > Although it's a little bigger, The Midas Venice recently retired from my local
> > venue to due to intermittent pots is rated as 8 hours work (by the UK
> > distributor) simply to disassemble and re-assemble before evm being able to do
> > any work on the PCBs.
>
> This is why people WANT to do this sort of work themselves and ask how
> on newsgroups and forums. I try to discourage anyone who has to ask what
> to do, but they usually manage to either bungle through the job anyway.
> Either they solve the problem (albeit temporarily) or they mess it up,
> but had already resolved that it was going into the dumpster so it was
> worth a try.
It's worth a crack IF the manufacturer will supply the spares you need. I'm going to
have a crack at that Venice for example. As a modest favour I've quoted a fixed price
(Shuttlesound supplied the required parts as freebies very kindly, bless them) for a
fixed fee of £300 ($600) so it should be just about worth my while. Commercially it
would have been over £1000.
Behringer however WILL NOT supply service parts as part of company policy, so you're
in deep doo-doo there. I know roughly what those parts are but I doubt the average
Joe can source them in quantities of say, less than 100 each. And linear faders are
the very devil to get right because of different pinnings, resistance tapers and
shaft details / lengths.
> There's no reason why someone with patience and experience with
> electronic servicing
Does the OP have this expereince ?
> (not necessarily on the specific product) can't at
> least do some exploratory surgery but you don't want to have to tell
> them which screws to remove (and which ones not), how to use a volt
> meter, how to check continuity, and how to remove a ribbon connector
> without further damaging it. Most of us with the old knowledge don't
> have that kind of patience any more, but maybe there are some newcomers
> who don't mind typing out a couple of pages of disassembly instructions
> 30 times or so. <g> of course
I still say he'll have a problem getting the replacement parts due to Behringer
policy. They won't even supply schematics FFS !
Graham
Eeyore
Gareth Magennis wrote:
> "Eeyore" wrote
> > gareth magennis wrote:
> >> "Eeyore" wrote in message
> >> > gareth magennis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Repairing the faders is a simple case of bending back the securing
> >> >> pins with a small screwdriver, you don't even have to desolder the
> faders
> >> >> (which is a very difficult job anyway even for a pro).
> >> >
> >> > Sorry, that's nonsense.
> >>
> >> Sorry, but without any evidence to the contrary how can you say that?
> >
> > I've seen their faders. I know who make them. They're cheap and cheerful
> > 'consumer' parts.
> >
> > End of discussion.
>
>
> You are still assuming that they are worn out or otherwise contaminated,
They will be.
> rather than have suffered mechanical damage which may be repairable, with no
> evidence yet to support either theory.
That's how they fail Gareth. It's as reliable as night following day. They are
NOT repairable. These are parts that cost Behringer probably about 20c ea. They
are not made to be 'repaired' or serviced like a P&G fader can be.
How many hundreds of thousands of mixers of YOUR design have been sold wordlwide
that you get your experience from ?
I KNOW what I'm talking about. The track is fucked, the reported symptoms
confirm this. Trying to 'fix' these will result only in misery, backbiting,
distrust and name-calling. Throw it in the junk or send it back toBbehringer to
fix so it's 'their problem'. They will undoubtedly quote an unrealistic service
price but MIGHT offer a discount on a new replacement, so that could be a viable
option. Actually, thinking about it, probably the very best option but will cost
the carriage charge unless Behr simply say they don't need to see it.
Behringer USA has a very helpful support agent whose name eludes me now but I'm
sure someone will come along and let us know. The OP should have a chat with him
I reckon.
Graham
Scott Dorsey
>It particularly happens when the fader housing is screwed to the front
>panel. Push hard on the knob and you push the track out through the housing
>because the circuit board flexes. Often you will find 2 or more adjacent
>faders with the same problem because something big and heavy hit more than 1
>fader knob, or the flexing board just pulled more than one fader apart. You
>can just carefully put the track back and bend back the securing tabs.
This is horrifying. This is a strong argument to replace the board too...
if the faders are so poorly built that they do this, they will do it again
in the future.
Even the crappy Panasonic and Alps ones don't do this.
Eeyore
Scott Dorsey wrote:
I just twigged what he's referring to. I'd asumed he knew better.
Behringer have NEVER used the style of fader he refers to. Yes, if you drop a
heavy weight on those types they can be fixed that way and will probably be fine,
but that's NOT what Behringer use.
Actually, Studiomaster used that type and that problem was very rare and we found
that style of construction very reliable in the long term, way better than the
pcb mounted types. PLUS way easier to replace since it only needed 2 screws and 3
wires soldering to change one out.
Graham
gareth magennis
Yes it is how they fail sometimes. I have seen it and I have repaired it.
I don't need to have sold umpteen trillion mixers to know about these
things, my job is fixing broken gear, and I see a lot of old scratchy faders
from a lot of different manufacturers. Have done for years.
> I KNOW what I'm talking about. The track is fucked, the reported symptoms
> confirm this.
No they don't, they are ambiguous. This is the only report of those
symptoms:
"Some of the
faders have dead spots on the upper end."
What does "dead spot" mean? If it means there is a significant portion of
the track where there is no audio at all, it is quite likely to be physical
damage where the wipers no longer contact the tracks at the end of its
travel, or some serious contamination, not your average wear and tear and
dust. How many typically dirty or worn faders have you ever come across
with a complete section of no audio? Most of them just scratch their way up
and down most of its travel, and most people describe these as "scratchy" or
something, not as having "Dead spots" up the top end.
It would be useful if the OP could elaborate, otherwise we have no clear
idea of the symptoms at all.
Gareth.
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> "Eeyore" wrote
>
> > I KNOW what I'm talking about. The track is fucked, the reported symptoms
> > confirm this.
>
> No they don't, they are ambiguous. This is the only report of those
> symptoms:
> "Some of the faders have dead spots on the upper end."
And Behringer DO NOT use the type of fader you're talking about. See my other
post. I realised what you were on about and very few mixers these days still use
those style faders, although I personally consider them superior btw.
Graham
gareth magennis
OK, I've removed a smaller fader than the OP's from a current Behringer
(that looks as though its been underwater) and have deliberately "broken" it
to demonstrate the fault I am talking about. I've taken a couple of photos,
and have searched for somewhere to post the pictures, but am swamped with
family photoshare stuff you have to log into, so don't know where to put
them. Anyone point me to an appropriate site?
Now, I am not sure whether I have actually seen this happen on a Behringer
any more, you know how it is when you start doubting yourself, but for this
to occurr the fader must be bolted to the mixers front panel. The mixer I
took it from doesn't do that and I don't know if the OP's mixer does either,
I suspect not now.
Amyway, I have seen this same fader on other equipment that does bolt it to
the panel, and have seen it fail like this. (Probably some DJ mixer) I
have a spare one in stock, identical to the Behringer save for a longer
shaft, quite possibly for a Vestax.
I have also seen this same thing happen on those very thin but wide Alps
faders you get in some Soundcraft, DDA type desks, I think the Sprirt
Studio and Live uses them.
Gareth.
Tim Perry
> (that looks as though its been underwater) and have deliberately "broken"
it
> to demonstrate the fault I am talking about. I've taken a couple of
photos,
> and have searched for somewhere to post the pictures, but am swamped with
> family photoshare stuff you have to log into, so don't know where to put
> them. Anyone point me to an appropriate site?
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
>
> Now, I am not sure whether I have actually seen this happen on a Behringer
> any more, you know how it is when you start doubting yourself, but for
this
> to occurr the fader must be bolted to the mixers front panel. The mixer I
> took it from doesn't do that and I don't know if the OP's mixer does
either,
> I suspect not now.
>
> Anyway, I have seen this same fader on other equipment that does bolt it
to
> the panel, and have seen it fail like this. (Probably some DJ mixer) I
> have a spare one in stock, identical to the Behringer save for a longer
> shaft, quite possibly for a Vestax.
>
> I have also seen this same thing happen on those very thin but wide Alps
> faders you get in some Soundcraft, DDA type desks, I think the Sprirt
> Studio and Live uses them.
>
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
I have seen what you are talking about many times.
I have also seen on small mixers where new pots are broken by removing the
mixer from the box and then repackaging it incorrectly.
This happens to the end faders when the Styrofoam pieces push sideways on
the fader.
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> Now, I am not sure whether I have actually seen this happen on a Behringer
> any more, you know how it is when you start doubting yourself, but for this
> to occurr the fader must be bolted to the mixers front panel.
To be honest, I have never seen Behringer bolt any fader to the front panel. It
would cost too much ( 2 screws) and add costly assembly time.
Maybe they do it on the DJ gear ?
Graham
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> for this to occur the fader must be bolted to the mixers front panel.
Update.
Just to confirm, the MX3282 does NOT screw the fader to the front panel.
http://behringer.com/MX3282A/?lang=ENG
Click on 'alternative view'. Save the pic and them zoom in on it to your heart's
content using Irfanview or your preferred image viewer.
So, whatever else, it is NOT the failure mode you suggest as I have continually
stated.
Graham
gareth magennis
I really can't remember which specific manufacturers do this, but yes, a lot
of DJ mixers seem to use screws. As I think do the Soundcraft Sprit Folio
range? The spare I have does not have the big solder tags on the housing
bottom that Behringer use to secure it to the PCB, so is a screw mount
variant from, I'm sure, the same company. I'm fairly but not fully
confident it is for a Vestax, which are quite well made actually.
Gareth.
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> "Eeyore" <rabbitsfriend...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > gareth magennis wrote:
> >
> >> Now, I am not sure whether I have actually seen this happen on a
> >> Behringer any more, you know how it is when you start doubting yourself,
> but for
> >> this to occurr the fader must be bolted to the mixers front panel.
> >
> > To be honest, I have never seen Behringer bolt any fader to the front
> > panel. It would cost too much ( 2 screws) and add costly assembly time.
> >
> > Maybe they do it on the DJ gear ?
>
>
> I really can't remember which specific manufacturers do this, but yes, a lot
> of DJ mixers seem to use screws. As I think do the Soundcraft Sprit Folio
> range?
Definitely not.
I've had the dubious pleasure of replacing faders on those too. Allow up to 20
mins each unless you plan to tear the copper foil off. The best technique is
actually to 'destroy' the fader completely by cutting with side shears etc so it
can be removes in little pieces that each only have one or two solder pins.
Trying to remove it as one is a virtually guaranteed disaster.
> The spare I have does not have the big solder tags on the housing
> bottom that Behringer use to secure it to the PCB, so is a screw mount
> variant from, I'm sure, the same company. I'm fairly but not fully
> confident it is for a Vestax, which are quite well made actually.
Yes, the same style faders are also made with tapped holes on the top face. This
may allow them to be replaced on an individual (per channel) basis if the design
tems had their wits about them despite still having some circuitry on an
attached pcb.
Graham
gareth magennis
Well my very first post in this thread was:
"If the faders are worn then I would go with all of the replies so far, but
if you are lucky, you may be able to repair the faders yourself"
I put that at a less than 10% chance of him being lucky. I didn't expect he
would be, but you never know, do you.
Gareth.
Gareth.
Eeyore
gareth magennis wrote:
> I put that at a less than 10% chance of him being lucky. I didn't expect he
> would be, but you never know, do you.
Yes, I knew it was 0%.
Graham
gareth magennis
Of course you did.
Gareth.
Gareth Magennis
Oh dear. Look at the photo I posted on alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
of a fader I removed from a Behringer desk. This is not the type that
Studiomaster used, I believe it is either a Panasonic or an Alps.
Yet you replied:
"Yup. That's what I thought you meant but it doesn't happen if it's PCB
mounted".
Above you are saying you thought I meant it was the Studiomaster type.
Curious. Trying to make other people look bad does not always make you
look good.
Gareth.
Eeyore
Gareth Magennis wrote:
> "Eeyore" wrote
> >
> > Actually, Studiomaster used that type and that problem was very rare and
> > we found that style of construction very reliable in the long term, way
> better than
> > the pcb mounted types. PLUS way easier to replace since it only needed 2
> > screws and 3 wires soldering to change one out.
>
> Oh dear. Look at the photo I posted on alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
> of a fader I removed from a Behringer desk. This is not the type that
> Studiomaster used, I believe it is either a Panasonic or an Alps.
You posted that pic that AFTER I wrote the above. Since you had described
yourself rather poorly I had to make a 'best guess' as to what you meant but the
failure mode under those conditions IS the same despite what you apparently
think for both of those types of fader. Namely the metal body's 'clips' bend
ouwards, allowing the resistive element to be displaced. And yes, it's easily
fixed.
However this has no relevance to the Behr model under discussion which has pcb
mounted faders.
> Yet you replied:
> "Yup. That's what I thought you meant but it doesn't happen if it's PCB
> mounted".
>
> Above you are saying you thought I meant it was the Studiomaster type.
Studiomaster has used a very few of that type but only pcb mounted. When pcb
mounted, that specific failure mode does not occur.
> Curious. Trying to make other people look bad does not always make you
> look good.
Stop making an idiot of yourelf. You're a rank amateur, I'm a top-notch design
consultant. I've been fairly kind so far. Do you want me to get nasty about your
lack of knowledge.
Graham
Gareth Magennis
Grow up, Graham.
Gareth.
Richard Crowley
> Grow up, Graham.
Doesn't seem very likely after all this time. :-)
Gareth Magennis
> Behringer however WILL NOT supply service parts as part of company policy,
> so you're
> in deep doo-doo there. I know roughly what those parts are but I doubt the
> average
> Joe can source them in quantities of say, less than 100 each. And linear
> faders are
> the very devil to get right because of different pinnings, resistance
> tapers and
> shaft details / lengths.
>
>
That's funny, cos I've bought Behringer faders from here. Either Alps or
Panasonic.
http://www.prolineaudio.co.uk/spares.htm
Oh dear again.
Gareth.
moby
wrote:
That's odd, I just spent a few happy hours inside an MX3282 and the
faders were Meggitt/Phier types, much the same as those used in the
JBL Eon Musicmix (Fisher Price "My First Mixer").
Gareth Magennis
"moby" <mo...@kcbbs.gen.nz> wrote in message
news:6b456c94-fe95-4050...@w4g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
Sorry, to clarify, I believe the MX3282 may have long throw faders? Its
been along time since I've seen one. Most of the smaller Behringer mixers
use short throw faders. I believe the early ones used Panasonic, the later
Alps, or it could be the other way round. I bought some from the site I
mentioned about 9 months ago, and both types were available then, but I have
no Idea about the faders for the MX3282 and their availability.
Gareth.