Thanks, Andy
Have a look here for a start
http://www.ibp.fhg.de/akustik/ra/owa/index_e.html
German, but I'm sure similar is available where you are.
d
>Can anyone recommend a specific product that's designed to fit into a
Sorry, actual products here
http://www.soundservice.co.uk/soundabsorber_ceilings.html
d
Acoustical tile is designed for just this. Now, there are two issues
here: first of all, the acoustical tile is only good for a fairly narrow
range of midrange frequencies. It's intended to improve voice intelligibility
and if you use a lot of it you get a room that is boomy and tizzy on top
and bottom since it does nothing about that.
The second serious problem is that people paint over the stuff. And then
after they paint over it, it ceases to be an effective absorber. There is
a restaurant I like to eat at where they have painted the ceiling blue, and
now it's much louder.
Call an acoustical tile supplier and they can give you plots of absorption
vs. frequency.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Isn't there a "non-bridging" paint that doesn't clog the holes?
There is, but it's expensive, and people don't know about it. So they use
latex or enamel. I've also seen "ceiling tile restorer" only in white and
black, no other colors.
>William Sommerwerck <grizzle...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> The second serious problem is that people paint over the stuff.
>>> And then after they paint over it, it ceases to be an effective
>>> absorber.
>>
>>Isn't there a "non-bridging" paint that doesn't clog the holes?
>
>There is, but it's expensive, and people don't know about it. So they use
>latex or enamel. I've also seen "ceiling tile restorer" only in white and
>black, no other colors.
>--scott
I remember a local news item years ago about a historic cinema that
had its screen repainted. They managed to clog all the sound holes,
and ended up with about a hundred volunteers with small drills reaming
them open again.
d
Automotive spray paint. Light coat.
greg
Check your local Armstrong Dealer's catalog. Their products with the highest
acoustical absorbtion rating amount to being 1" 705 with a perferated
plastic sheet on front for appearances sake.
The framing should be able to hold a mic. The problem would be isolating the
cable's weight.
> The second serious problem is that people paint over the
> stuff. And then after they paint over it, it ceases to
> be an effective absorber. There is
> a restaurant I like to eat at where they have painted the
> ceiling blue, and now it's much louder.
http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/pages/Reverberation%20Time%20Calculator.htm
One of the really instructive things is to see what happens the absorption
coefficients of raw coarse grained concrete block when you paint it over.
http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/pages/Coefficient%20Chart.htm
> Call an acoustical tile supplier and they can give you
> plots of absorption vs. frequency.
Or just surf the web.
http://www.whealy.com/acoustics/ControlRoom.html
Thin stains.
Agreed.
> The problem would be isolating the cable's weight.
A single mic cable and a single hanging mic should be no challenge for any
reasonable drop ceiling grid.
However, just draping cable over the back of the tiles and grid is pretty
sloppy. Not that I haven't done it many times.
Thin is the word. Even if you don't fill the holes, the paint will likely
make the covering stiffer.
greg