Wilson Audio Watt Puppy 7 Tweeters
Nikki Thuillier
where I can buy a replacement pair?
Kind regards,
Nikki
Audio Empire
(in article <ivceo...@news3.newsguy.com>):
Ostensibly, only from Wilson Audio themselves.
f...@bar.com
<ni...@wicklowbroadband.com> wrote:
A recent Wilson ad proclaimed that they had made special efforts to
buy up spares for older Wilson products.... Have you tried them?
--
My email is JohnMee3 <AT> comcast.net, not whatever is in the header
KH
Are you sure you blew the tweeters and not the resistors? Make sure you
check them first.
Keith
Audio Empire
(in article <ivcn8...@news3.newsguy.com>):
No doubt that one can buy a similar looking tweeter from a third party
vendor. It may be from the same manufacturer that Wilson uses to supply his
drivers, and indeed it might even be the exact, same model. BUT, Wilson
modifies their tweeters (or at least they used to) and they then test and
tweak to make matched pairs. So even if one COULD get the exact same tweeter
that Wilson bought for WP7's from another vendor, the replacements will
likely not sound like the originals, and I would think that that's elementary
purpose defeating give the cost of the WP7s (which, are magnificent - even
though I'm an electrostatic fan).
Nikki Thuillier
Nikki
Nikki Thuillier
Thanks for taking the time to reply to me , upon checking It now seems I have blown both tweeters and the resistor on one side also! My dealer wants $2,600 to replace them!!!
Nikki
Charlie Bonitz
> I have blown both tweeters and the resistor on one side also! My dealer
> wants $2,600 to replace them!!!
>
> Nikki
Make shure to have your amp(s) checked if you don't know the reason of
the failure for sure.
Otherwise the tweeters might blow again next time you try.
Charlie
Audio Empire
(in article <j1m6h...@news2.newsguy.com>):
Good point. There are generally two amp conditions that can blow tweeters.
One is that the amp is ultrasonically oscillating, and the second is that the
amplifier that you're driving the speakers with is too small for the
listening level to which you are driving the speakers and the amp is clipping
- a lot!
In the first case, the amp itself is faulty, and a high-level oscillation is
being produced, that while you can't hear it (it might be higher than 20
KHz), it is nonetheless being pumped into the tweeter. Unable to handle that
much power at those frequencies, the tweeters simply overheat and burn-out.
This condition is unlikely to appear in BOTH channels at the same time,
though, but it is possible. It's also possible that the oscillation is
occurring UPSTREAM of the amplifier. Are you playing music from a computer
sound card? If so, you might want to start there. You'll need an oscilloscope
to see the oscillation, as you usually can't hear it.
The second problem occurs when you couple an inefficient speaker system with
a solid-state amplifier that's too small to drive it adequately. If you
listen very loudly, and drive the amplifier beyond its power capabilities,
the amp will "clip". That is to say, that the amplitude of the waveform
feeding the speakers exceeds the amplifier's power supply limits. When this
happens, the tops of the music get cut off flat. This means that the signal
to the tweeter becomes, instead of occasional high-frequency content, a
steady-state high-amplitude "square wave". Because it's a steady state
signal, the voice coil in the tweeter doesn't have time to cool-off between
peaks and it's 'duty cycle' (the length of time that the voice coil can be
energized before it overheats) becomes exceeded. Since tweeters are small,
with small voice coils and not much mass to dissipate any heat that builds up
in them, they can't carry much power. Normally that's OK because there isn't
much power in the normal high-frequency content of music and the speaker
system's crossover network keeps the low frequencies (where the power is) out
of the tweeter anyway. However, all bets are off if the amp is defective and
oscillating supersonically at high volumes, or if the system is being played
loudly enough to clip the amplifier pretty consistently.
Most speakers have a fuse in line with the tweeter to protect it against both
of the above conditions. Some manufacturers eschew this practice because they
believe that the fuse acts as a nonlinear resistor and introduces distortion.
On the other hand, more often than not, the tweeter ends up protecting the
fuse by "blowing" first, in which case, the idea of fusing the tweeter ends
up being more like wishful thinking than having any real, practical value.